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À partir des années cinquante, l'alpinisme connaît une évolution éthique et idéologique. Icône de cette période, Lionel Terray promeut un modèle performatif dont les soubassements se situent dans son parcours. Alors que les Premières constituaient un objectif majeur, désormais, le record devient légitime. Cette nouvelle conception va contribuer à ériger le style alpin en modèle de référence. Mobilisant des données issues des revues fédérales de l'univers montagnard, de la presse généraliste et des comptes-rendus d'expédition, cette étude saisit les fondements de l'évolution de l'alpinisme au regard du positionnement de Lionel Terray. Il amorce sa sportivisation par l'intermédiaire de la rationalisation de sa pratique comme de l'évolution des objectifs. L'émergence de cette conception sportive et performative repose sur des innovations matérielles et conceptuelles qui infléchissent les usages, et dont L. Terray a contribué à leur diffusion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study aims to help establish a history of selecting and forgetting in the field of sport by examining the frameworks and representations which structure collective relationships with the past. Extending the field of memory to the sporting sphere directly implies highlighting a plurality of heritage notions and values together with as many issues of institutional legitimacy. In this respect, examining the memory-based strategy advocated by the French Tennis Federation at Roland-Garros shows the wish to build a common national heritage, in reaction to the many representations of sporting modernity. Through reappropriation of history, memory thus takes on the role of legitimising the various forms of modernity, by inscribing them into the continuity of sport through time. It also, however, raises the question of its own construction and instrumentalisation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The institutionalization of sport ethics was kept on the fringes where sports organizations were concerned until the 60's when it became an important issue and a powerful tool for international sport leadership. Initiated by the French and the International Council of Sport and Physical Education, an organization linked to United Nations for education, science and culture (UNESCO), the International Fair Play Committee (IFPC), created on September 7, 1963, initially kept on the sidelines by the International Olympic Committee (IOC) under the presidency of Avery Brundage. With the election of Lord Killanin then of Juan Antonio Samaranch, new relations spawned between the IOC and UNESCO by way of the IFPC. In 1988, Fair play and more generally sporting education became an integral part of the Olympic ideal, accepted by intergovernmental organizations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]