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Abstract The Little Ice Age is the most noted climatological event in recent history with dramatic consequences for a large part of the western European coastal landscape. A major morphological feature associated with this event is the presence of large-scale transgressive dune fields that actively advanced inland, encroaching, in some cases, human settlements and directly affecting coastal communities. Several hypotheses exist to explain the formation of such features, which purport increased storminess, sea-level changes, or human activities as the major drivers of the relatively well-documented enhanced aeolian activity during this event. However, these hypotheses do not explain entirely the whole process by which dunes are set into movement. Here, we show the temporal and spatial distribution of this event in terms of impact over the coast, focusing on the mobilization of coastal dunes and then elaborate a new conceptual model that explains the onset and evolution pathways of coastal dunes after the impact of the Little Ice Age. Our model proposes the combined effect of storms and other parameters to explain the initiation phases of the process, when sand becomes available and blown by the very strong winds associated with documented higher frequency and intensity of storms occurring during this period. Highlights • The LIA climate event dramatically affected coastal sand dunes in Europe. • LIA environmental conditions triggered the onset of transgressive dunes in Europe. • A new conceptual model of dune behaviour for the LIA is presented. • LIA storms and perhaps temperatures acted as catalysts for mobile dunes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract Understanding dynamic earth surface processes requires various spatial and temporal information to help produce patterns of landform change. Recent developments in sensor technology such as Structure from Motion (SfM), camera-mounted airborne Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAVs) and Terrestrial Laser Scanning (TLS) have provided a means of acquiring high-resolution spatial data on land surface topography. Through repeat surveys, these techniques enable much better understanding of what is termed 'geomorphometry', where we can examine a geomorphic surface for change over space and time. In coastal environments, change can involve significant alteration and generation of landforms over relatively short periods and, therefore, we require a means of measuring surface morphology quickly and over large areas. Here, we examine a section of a beach-dune system in NW Ireland using SfM-UAV and TLS plus baseline dGPS data points to assess the value of these techniques and to understand their effectiveness (and limitations). Issues such as accuracy, resolution and differences of Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) are assessed for their efficiency, associated challenges and relative performance over variations in terrain types and analytical approaches. We also examine the implications for differences in areal and volume calculations of the coastal landforms using both approaches. We find that sensor performance is highly dependent on the terrain being measured, with undulations, slope, vegetation cover, acquisition resolution (point density) and interpolation issues all having pronounced impacts on effectiveness and data quality. In general, the TLS performed better over flatter, low-angled topography containing sparse/non-vegetated areas than in areas with complex landforms where survey shadows appear to compromise final DEMs. The SfM-UAV shows good performance over different terrains with the exception of relatively flat, featureless areas such as sandy beaches and densely-vegetated surfaces where differences between techniques are >1 m. Data acquisition however is much (×30) faster using a SfM-UAV with more extensive survey areas covered than using a TLS. Highlights • TLS performs better than UAV over flat beach than in vegetated dunes and vice versa. • UAV-derived point clouds 30 times faster than TLS operations • Survey design and post-processing methodology important in reducing DSM errors • 3D surface derivation should take cognisance of terrain complexity and type. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Low frequency, high magnitude storm events can dramatically alter coastlines, helping to relocate large volumes of sediments and changing the configuration of landforms. Increases in the number of intense cyclones occurring in the Northern Hemisphere since the 1970s is evident with more northward tracking patterns developing. This brings added potential risk to coastal environments and infrastructure in northwest Europe and therefore understanding how these high-energy storms impact sandy coasts in particular is important for future management. This study highlights the evolution of Storm (formally Hurricane) Ophelia in October 2017 as it passed up and along the western seaboard of Ireland. The largest ever recorded Hurricane to form in the eastern Atlantic, we describe, using a range of environmental measurements and wave modelling, its track and intensity over its duration whilst over Ireland. The impact on a stretch of sandy coast in NW Ireland during Storm Ophelia, when the winds were at their peak, is examined using terrestrial laser scanning surveys pre- and post-storm to describe local changes of intertidal and dune edge dynamics. During maximum wind conditions (>35 knots) waves no >2 m were recorded with an oblique to parallel orientation and coincident with medium to low tide (around 0.8 m). Therefore, we demonstrate that anticipated widespread coastal erosion and damage may not always unfold as predicted. In fact, around 6000 m 3 of net erosion occurred along the 420 m stretch of coastline with maximum differences in beach topographic changes of 0.8 m. The majority of the sediment redistribution occurred within the intertidal and lower beach zone with some limited dune trimming in the southern section (10% of the total erosion). Asynchronous high water (tide levels), localised offshore winds as well as coastline orientation relative to the storm winds and waves plays a significant role in reducing coastal erosional impact. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Airflow dynamics and potential sediment transport were measured and modelled across various barchan dune topographies and incident wind conditions. Modification of near surface flow was recorded simultaneously in three dimensions (3D) using dense arrays of high-resolution 3D ultrasonic anemometers. In situ measurements provided rigorous validation and calibration for computational fluid dynamics (CFD) modelling. Measured and modelled results show good agreement between flow velocity, directionality, and turbulence intensity. Modelling of characteristic airflow conditions and surface shear stress beyond the instrument locations, elucidated airflow dynamics across the entire landform surface at an unprecedented level of detail. Emergent turbulent airflow patterns were identified in the form of two counter-rotating vortices that converge at the dune centreline downwind of the dune crest. Integrating a sediment transport function with CFD surface airflow allows for the spatial mapping of flux patterns across the entirety of the dune and interdune surface. On the stoss slope and laterally along the outer barchan arms, there is strong potential sediment flux in response to increased streamwise stress. In lee-side locations, sediment transport remains at ‘above threshold’ conditions and is redirected in response to complex turbulent vortices identified in the overlying wake zone. The precision of the models allows for the identification of complex flow perturbations and associated surface stresses that prove difficult to measure in the field. CFD in combination with a sediment transport function is demonstrated to be a useful tool in investigating morphodynamics of mobile dune systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Shorefaces are transitional zones between the shelf and surfzone/beach systems. They are subdivided into 'upper' and 'lower' shoreface sectors which display particular morphodynamic behaviour, with the upper shoreface morphologically active over short (annual) time scales, and the lower shoreface evolving over much longer time scales (decadal and beyond). We examine morphodynamics using three distinct examples from the high-energy coast of Ireland. Numerical wave modelling (SWAN) is used to characterize wave energy dissipation across the shoreface. Our results show that zonation patterns and the physical extent of shorefaces display distinct spatial as well as temporal variations. The shoreface's physical limits and internal zonation patterns are driven by the combination of local wave forcing and pre-existing shoreface morphology. Shoreface behaviour therefore, falls within a spectum between gradual and intensive wave energy dissipation. We show that particular seabed morphology controls the extent of, as well as the bed shear stress distribution across the shoreface. This can have significant implications for any adjoining beach systems as waves arriving at the surf zone acquire specific characteristics depending on the shoreface configuration, even under similar offshore wave conditions. Additionally, the variation of shoreface extent impacts the volume of sediment available for transport, both to the nearshore zone as well as local beach systems. The influence of shoreface morphology is therefore an important, but largely overlooked element in the study of mesoscale coastal behaviour as well as coastal response to global climate change and secular sea-level rise. • Full shoreface extent needed in examination of total transport potential. • Variability in shoreface zonation are largely controlled by nearshore morphology. • Incoming wave energy dissipation patterns tied to shoreface morphology. • Shoreface is defined along a morphological continuum with a supply impact on beaches. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: On all sandy coastlines fringed by dunes, understanding localised air flow allows us to examine the potential sand transfer between the beach and dunes by wind-blown (Aeolian) action. Traditional thinking into this phenomenon had previously included only onshore winds as effective drivers of this transfer. Recent research by the authors, however, has shown that offshore air-flow too can contribute significantly, through lee-side back eddies, to the overall windblown sediment budget to coastal dunes. Under rising sea levels and increased erosion scenarios, this is an important process in any post-storm recovery of sandy beaches. Until now though, full visualisation in 3D of this newly recognised mechanism in offshore flows has not been achieved. Here, we show for the first time, this return flow eddy system using 3D computational fluid dynamics modelling, and reveal the presence of complex corkscrew vortices and other phenomena. The work highlights the importance of relatively small surface undulations in the dune crest which act to induce the spatial patterns of airflow (and transport) found on the adjacent beach. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Blowouts are common landforms found within coastal dunes. Their dynamics are primarily driven by aeolian transport caused by surface wind stress, though patterns of deflation and deposition within blowouts are poorly understood as near surface wind flow is complex. Three‐dimensional wind flows around blowouts have yet to be properly quantified, especially within zones of separation, re-attachment and acceleration. This has been largely due to inadequate measurement of airflow and a lack of suitable airflow models. With this in mind, we present results from a study that has quantified alongshore and oblique onshore wind flow dynamics over a bowl blowout on the Belmullet Peninsula, Ireland. Using ultrasonic three-dimensional anemometry (measuring at 50Hz) and three-dimensional computational fluid dynamic (CFD) modelling, we measure and model for the first time in 3D a detailed picture of the heterogeneity of wind flow over this type of terrain. During alongshore wind conditions, wind speeds within the deflation basin were retarded by 50% compared to the foredune zone and flow separation restricted to a small zone in lee of the windward rim. Wind was directed into the deflation basin through a gap in a western erosional wall, termed the blowout throat. In oblique onshore wind, airflow orientated with the blowout throat remained unchanged in direction and slowed by only 30% compared to wind speed on the foredune. In lee of the erosional wall adjacent to the blowout throat, small zones of flow separation occurred close to the erosional wall. In both cases, the highest variation in wind speed and direction occurred in zones of separation and attachment whilst flow increased in steadiness with height over the erosional walls. The results illustrate that wind is manipulated according to localised topography within the bowl blowout itself. Resulting zones of potential sediment transport (erosion and deposition) are spatially complex and alter with wind direction. The presence of a blowout throat has a significant influence on airflow patterns within a deflation basin. Modelled (CFD) and measured anemometer data demonstrated excellent comparisons for wind direction and speed, allowing much greater spatial measurement resolution than physical instrumentation. Simulated turbulence did not correlate well with measured data, highlighting the requirement for high frequency, three-dimensional anemometry in areas of complex flow. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Very large boulders (mega-clasts) are found on some coasts. The size and position of the boulders has been used to suggest that contemporary marine processes, acting within their normal spatial and energy range, are unlikely to have moved them. Explanations for the presence of such boulders include transport by infrequent very high-energy marine processes (storms or tsunamis), mass movement from backing cliffs, transport by ice, or exhumation from glacial deposits. This paper advances an alternative explanation which does not involve transport by any of the marine or glacial processes, or gravity. It is proposed that, in a very specific geological and topographic setting, large boulders are exhumed in situ by storm waves acting on heavily weathered jointed basalts. Eventually wave action liberates residual blocks from the deeply weathered matrix. These liberated boulders will be mobile only if they lie within wave competence, and the larger ones will remain as stationary residuals. The same in situ weathering processes, followed by removal of the friable matrix material debris by wave action, also progressively round the boulders. Consequently, despite their appearance of being transport-rounded, the larger boulders have not transported at all. In specific locations, the assumption that the presence, and rounding, of such large clasts in the shore zone can be attributed to marine transport can lead to erroneous interpretations of very high-energy storm wave (or tsunami) activity. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The equilibrium planform concept (EPC) for bayed beaches has achieved wide currency in coastal morphodynamics. The north coast of Ireland comprises a series of discrete headland-embayment beaches within which waves and currents recycle a finite sediment volume. It is therefore an ideal setting in which to explore the applicability of the concept. Application of the approach to 9 embayment beaches on the north coast of Ireland provides some insights into the application of the concept. The planform of some beaches does correspond to that predicted while others do not. Those whose measured planform does not correspond to the predicted planform can be interpreted through, (a) difficulty in identifying the wave diffraction point, (b) disequilibrium on the beach (sediment scarcity or excess), (c) geological control of beach morphology. The subjectivity in selecting the diffraction point renders alternative explanations difficult and reduces the utility of the approach on natural shorelines, where significant irregularities render identification of such points difficult. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A 2-year investigation into shoreface morphodynamic behaviour off a high-energy headland-embayment coast in Northern Ireland reveals important process–response mechanisms that cannot be explained solely by existing conceptual models. A comparison of 14 sequential bathymetric surveys, from 1 to 24m water depth, shows that the Portstewart shoreface is in equilibrium with modal to high-energy conditions; significant morphologic change is generally associated with summer and/or fair-weather conditions. Additionally, antecedent morphology appears to be a primary control on subsequent behaviour; shoreface areas that had accreted in the previous survey period were more likely to erode. Also, the high-energy shoreface and beach appears to be in a state of accretion over the survey period, which is consistent with a falling late Holocene relative sea-level, a linear and dissipative shoreface profile and an abundance of sand in the coastal system. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Experiments carried out at Magilligan Strand on the north coast of Ireland suggest that topographic steering of offshore winds is an important facet of the aeolian sediment transport system at this location. A five-day study (18–22 June 2005) investigated the pattern of airflow over the foredune while simultaneously collecting data on sediment flux. A simple instrument setup was used to characterise the airflow: a sonic anemometer was placed at the dune crest, with another on the mid-beach. Horizontal traps, electronic and integrating, measured sediment flux on the supra-tidal beach. Results show that offshore wind flow deviated from its original direction in the lee of the dune (seaward of foredune). The change in direction was not a simple steering of flow to a singular new direction, but rather flow separation resulting in turbulent multidirectional flow — including reversal. Traps located at the foot of the dune scarp recorded sediment transport during events forced by offshore winds. Data from sediment traps, wind and observational evidence have been used to argue that sedimentation was occurring in this zone. When budgeting for sediment movement within beach–dune systems it is important to take into account the effect of secondary airflow patterns during offshore winds and their role in constructive processes of foredune formation, particularly in post-storm recovery. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Topographic steering has been observed around Gran Canaria, a high-profile circular island located in the Canary Island Archipelago, Spain, culminating in a complex lee-side wind regime at the Maspalomas dunefield. Maspalomas has experienced rapid environmental changes since the 1960s, coincident with a boom in the tourism industry in the region and requires further examination on the linkages between meso-scale airflow patterns and aeolian processes modifying the landscape. The aim of this work is to simulate mean and turbulent airflow conditions at Maspalomas due to incremental changes in the regional wind direction and to compare these results to the predicted and observed aeolian dynamics taken from meteorological records, a global wind retro-analysis model, and remote sensing data. A Smagorinsky Large Eddy Simulation (S-LES) model was used to identify meso-scale airflow perturbations and turbulence at different locations around the island. Variability in meteorological data was also identified, with sites recording accelerated or retarded velocities and directional distributions ranging between unimodal to bimodal. Using a global retro-analysis model, relatively consistent up-wind conditions were predicted over a period coinciding with three aerial LiDAR surveys (i.e., 2006, 2008, and 2011) at the Maspalomas dunefield. Despite the consistent predicted airflow conditions, dune migration rates dropped from 7.26 m y−1 to 2.80 m y−1 and 28% of dunes experienced crest reversal towards the east, or opposite of the primary westerly migration direction during the second time period. Our results indicate that meso-scale airflow steering alters local wind conditions that can modify sediment transport gradients at Maspalomas. Given the rapidity of environmental changes and anthropogenic impacts at Maspalomas, these findings improve our understanding on the aeolian dynamics at Maspalomas and can be used to inform future management strategies. Lastly, the approach used in this study could be applied to other high-profile island settings or similarly complex aeolian environments. Unlabelled Image • Whole-island airflow bifurcation and topographic steering occurs around a dunefield. • Inconsistency in regional wind patterns and dune migrations rates were observed. • Meteorological observations, wind modelling, and remote sensing data were compared. • Incident winds are perturbed, modifying aeolian transport patterns at the dunefield. • Down-scaling winds may better predict dominate drivers in aeolian environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• 3D modelling shows shear stress clustering on transverse dunes with reversed winds. • Winds on long stoss slopes and steep lees have higher surface shear stress and flux. • Reversed winds result in almost 10% less aeolian flux. • Dune surface remoulds to smoother topography under reversed wind regimes. • Findings may be an useful analogue for Transverse Aeolian Ripples (TARs) on Mars. Airflow dynamics across dune surfaces are the primary agent of sediment transport and resulting dune migration movements. Using 3D computational fluid dynamic modelling, this study examined the behaviour of near surface airflow travelling over transverse (reversing) dunes on a beach system. Wind direction was modelled in two opposing directions (both perpendicular to dune crestline) to investigate surface alteration of flow on the dune topography. Surface shear stress, velocity streamlines and potential sediment flux were extracted from the modelling. The work shows that under SW winds the surface (under the configuration measured) underwent almost 10% more aeolian flux than with opposing NE winds of the same magnitude. Differences were also noted in the airflow behaviour with SW winds staying attached to the surface with less turbulence while NE winds had detached flow at dune crests with more localised turbulence. The work provides detailed insights into how 3D airflow behaviour is modified according to incident flow direction of reversing dune ridges and the resulting implications for their topographic modification. These dune types also provide interesting analogues for similarly scaled Transverse Aeolian Ridges found on Mars and the findings here provide important understanding of flow behaviour of such landforms and their potential movement. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the context of global climate change and sea-level rise, coastal dunes are often important elements in the coastal response to storm wave and storm surge impacts on coastal lowlands. Vegetation cover, in turn, has profound impacts on coastal dune morphology and storm-buffering function; it binds existing sediment, promotes fresh sediment accumulation and thereby increases dune volume and dune crest elevation where a sediment-plant interaction plays out with vegetation growth attempting to out-pace the vertical sediment accumulation. A global analysis shows that vegetation cover has increased substantially on multiple, geographically dispersed, coastal dune fields on all continents in the period 1984–2017. The observed 'greening' points to enhanced dune stability and storm buffering effects at a time when, paradoxically, coasts are being subjected to increased flood and erosion risk from rising sea levels and changing patterns of storminess. Causal attribution of biological trends to climate change is complicated, but we contend that the global scale 'greening' of coastal dunes is driven by a combination of changes to climate and atmospheric composition and reflects the cumulative effects of changes in temperature, precipitation, nutrient concentration and reduced windiness (global stilling). Global-scale increases in temperature, nutrients and precipitation (all of which are vegetation growth stimulants) and widespread reduction in windiness ("stilling") (which reduces sediment activity, promoting the spread of vegetation) coincide in time with the observed changes in vegetation cover. The observed changes in coastal dunefields enhance contemporary and near-future coastal resilience to climate change and may represent a previously unrecognised morphological feedback mediated by climate change. • Widespread coastal dune vegetation growth at many latitudes in the last three decades • Increased dune vegetation cover may afford better erosion resistance along dune-fringed coastlines • Coastal dunefields may be moving toward a phase of static dynamics • Global scale 'greening' of coastal dunes may be driven by a combination of changes to climate and atmospheric composition [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In 2015, an active dune field on Mars was visited up close by the Curiosity rover in Gale Crater providing the first high resolution ground images of fine scale windblown features not previously resolved from orbital-based imagery. For the first time, these images allow for direct comparison with terrestrial aeolian dynamics and provide critical ground truth data to bridge the gap between model predictions and satellite observations. The image data from the slipface on the Namib dune within the Bagnold dune field shows grainflow morphologies that are similar to dunes on Earth. Quantitative estimates of flow thickness, based on shadow length are presented for the grainflows on the Namib dune slipface and compared to grainflow characteristics measured by terrestrial laser scans from the Maspalomas dune field located in Gran Canaria, Spain. Using observations from Maspalomas to support interpretations of martian slipface dynamics, we discuss implications for the local wind regime, style of grainflow, seasonal activity, and dune migration. The presence of multiple large-magnitude grainflows on the Namib slipface suggests an active aeolian environment, capable of delivering enough sediment to the slipface to initiate these flows and transport sediment to the bottom of the lee slope. However, the thinness of grainflows on the Namib dune, the formation of smaller grainflows directly below the dune brink and limited grainfall suggest a lower wind energy environment, at least for the most recent slipface activity. Large, actively migrating stoss ripples obliquely oriented to the dune crest regularly deposit sediment on to the upper slipface and may be a mechanism in which larger grainflow occur during seemingly low energy wind events. This mechanism of sediment delivery may also explain the existence of a variety of slipface morphologies, both young and old, which are otherwise quickly erased on Earth due to sediment redistribution and grainfall. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Although morphologically persistent in the long term, Multiple Intertidal Bar Systems (MITBs) display short-term, especially seasonal, morphodynamic behaviour. Analysis of high-density, monthly DGPS surveys conducted at Murlough and Ballykinler beaches, inter- and supratidal sediment volumes and hydrodynamic forcing (wave conditions and water levels), demonstrates a link between strong seasonality in wave climate and MITB beach behaviour. Summer, low-energy conditions limit cross-shore sediment exchange during which MITB beach morphology tends to stabilise throughout the season. With the onset of high-energy winter conditions cross-shore sediment exchanges occur between inter- and supratidal areas. Sediment transport is then enhanced during storm conditions that are coincident with spring tides, leading to high total water levels (TWL). Ultimately the storm sequencing, (frequency, magnitude and inter-storm interval), is the key parameter driving the beach morphological response. Major erosional patterns occur when the most energetic event, combined with spring high tide, occurs at the beginning of the winter season. Subsequent, less energetic storms then promote bar recovery until another extreme event occurs. Seasonality is also evident in alongshore dynamics. Cross-shore drainage channels that dissect the intertidal bars migrate alongshore, driving alongshore sediment transport and MITB longshore migration patterns. In summer migration of drainage channels is limited, whereas the winter high-energy forcing enhances channel migration rates and resulting sediment transport. Differences in dynamics between the two study sites are attributed to differences in local geology, beach morphology and sediment size, but in both locations, drainage channels are in fine migrating toward the inlet and associated ebb delta that divides the bay. Subsequent transport vectors are unknown, but the observations highlight the primary role of the inlet in the sediment circulation dynamics in the system as a whole. • Long-term Multiple Intertidal Bar systems stability is based on a dynamic equilibrium driven by short-term seasonal morphodynamics • Low-energy conditions limit cross-shore sediment transport and longshore drainage channels migration, supporting MITB system stability • High-energy forcing drive sediment exchanges between upper and lower beach; patterns are enhanced by storm events and high-water levels • Winter forcing increases alongshore drainage channels migration rates and subsequent sediment transport leading to alongshore bar migrations • MITB beach dynamics are driven by wave forcing, water levels, storm sequencing, local geomorphology and the presence of hard features and an inlet [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: New seismic stratigraphic, vibracore and AMS 14C dates from two sites off the Northern Ireland coast yield information on the deglacial to present sea-level history and shelf evolution of the region. A lowstand of sea level at about 30 m below present sea level recorded by fossils in a lowstand shoreline deposit occurred around 13.4 cal ka B.P. following a period of rapid isostatic uplift associated with a RSL fall of 6–7 cm/yr. Following the lowstand, contrasting styles of sedimentation characterized the two study sites. In the sheltered environment of Belfast Lough, the lowstand shoreline was overtopped and buried by transgressive facies of intertidal and shallow sub-tidal mud and sandy mud. On the high-energy Portrush coast, the inner shelf sedimentary sequence is characterized by a basal conglomerate overlain by well-sorted sands with occasional interbedded gravel. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Ireland experienced a spatially complex pattern of relative sea-level (RSL) changes and shoreline development caused by the interplay of isostatic and eustatic (ice equivalent sea level) processes since the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM). Using a combination of high-resolution marine geophysical data, vibrocores, foraminiferal analysis and 10 AMS radiocarbon dates, we reconstruct the Late Quaternary evolution and RSL history of Bantry Bay, a large (40 km long, 5–10 km wide) embayment in SW Ireland. The data indicate two infill phases: one before and one after the LGM, separated by glacial and lowstand sediments. The pre-LGM history is not dated and the depositional history is inferred. A large sediment lobe formed at the outer edge of Bantry Bay as a lowstand ice-proximal glacimarine outwash system as the ice retreated after the LGM, at a sea level ca. 80 m lower than present. Iceberg scour immediately west of this location likely relate to the break-up of the local Kerry–Cork Ice Cap. Long curvilinear ridges, seen both offshore and on top of the sediment lobe, probably formed as shoreface ridges under stronger-than-present tidal currents during a period of RSL stability (pre-14.6 ka cal BP). A subsequent infill phase is characterised by a basin-wide erosional (ravinement) surface and the deposition of inter- and sub-tidal estuarine sediments. Although our data support the general trends, our stratigraphic and radiocarbon data suggest a higher sea level between 11 and 13.5 ka cal BP than predicted by existing glacial isostatic adjustment models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Recent mapping programmes in Irish territorial waters, such as the Irish National Seabed Survey and the Integrated Mapping for the Sustainable Development of Ireland's Marine Resource programme, have generated high resolution multibeam bathymetry, backscatter and sediment sample datasets at an unprecedented resolution and coverage. Building upon previous mapping of glacial landforms on the northwest Irish continental shelf, a 1:225,000 scale map identifying contemporary bedforms has been produced between 54°40′N/56°10′N and 10°2′W/6°45′W. The analysis of bathymetric derivatives and backscatter interpretation has enabled the classification of several types of depositional feature including six sediment wave assemblages. Erosional features have also been identified across the shelf in the form of surface sediment lineations, as well as more spatially confined formations such as furrows. Based on wave asymmetry, sedimentary composition and orientation, in agreement with published modelled hydrodynamic conditions, these bedforms are assumed to be contemporary features. Data interpretation, particularly of backscatter imagery reveals that these sediments mask the acoustic signatures of an underlying glacial architecture and may alter their apparent morphology due to burying. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Beaches that are geologically controlled by rock and coral formations are the rule, not the exception. This paper reviews the current understanding of geologically controlled beaches, bringing together a range of terminologies (including embayed beaches, shore platform beaches, relict beaches, and perched beaches, among others) and processes, with the aim of exploring the multiple ways in which geology influences beach morphology and morphodynamics. We show how in addition to sediment supply, the basement geology influences where beaches will form by providing accommodation, and in the cross-shore, aspects of rock platform morphology such as elevation and slope are also important. Geologically controlled beaches can have significant variations in sediment coverage with seasons and storms, and geological controls have fundamental influences on their contemporary morphodynamics. This includes wave shadowing by headlands and rock/coral formations inducing strong alongshore gradients in wave energy, resulting in corresponding variations in morphodynamic beach state and storm response. Geologically-induced rip currents including shadow rips, deflection rips and mega-rips that can develop on embayed beaches during storms, are an integral feature of the nearshore circulation and morphodynamics of geologically controlled beaches. We bring these processes together by presenting a conceptual model of alongshore and cross-shore levels of geological control. In the longshore dimension, this ranges from beaches that are slightly embayed, through to highly embayed beaches where headlands dominate the entire beach morphodynamic response. In the cross-shore dimension, this ranges from beaches without discernible geological controls, through to relict beaches above the influence of the contemporary littoral zone. Given the prevalence of geologically controlled beaches along the world's coasts, it is paramount for coastal management to consider how these beaches differ from unconstrained beaches and avoid applying inappropriate models and tools, especially with our uncertain future climate. Unlabelled Image • Beaches geologically controlled by rock and coral formations are common globally. • We review the state of knowledge of geological control of sandy beaches. • There was no encompassing classification system for these beaches. • We present longshore and cross-shore models from low to high geological control. • There is poor applicability of models for management of this common beach type. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]