Search

The availability of shirts and camisoles in eighteenth-century households in Burgos was a marker of social distinction of notable importance within the existing material culture framework. The different socio-professional groups, conditioned by their rank and their wealth, deployed a wide range of behaviours and consumption strategies in which aspects such as the number of treasured pieces, the quality of the available fabrics, and the monetary value of these clothes were taken into account. Particularly significant was the incorporation of camisoles, a garment of French - Bourbon - origin that represented a symbol of modernity, as opposed to the more traditional Castilian shirts associated with the House of Austria. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article presents the traditional costume of the shepherds from the Eastern Carpathians, from an historical perspective, using narrative, bibliographic, iconographic, folklore, and archival sources. The muruite [smeared] shirts treated with soot become regional and occupational signs in the mountain area of Bistriţa, Maramureş, and Bucovina regions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The other contemporary textile programme closely linked to Derry city comes in the form of the International Conflict Textiles collection curated by Roberta Bacic. From Shirts to Arpilleras - Derry's Textile Heritage Continues Since then, Conflict Textiles has continued to use the process of I arpillera i workshops, seeding the creation of I arpilleras i and textiles exhibitions as a means of encouraging people to reflect on and process the difficult past in Northern Ireland and beyond. [Extracted from the article]

We investigated the impact of outfit colors on the frequency of offside judgments in soccer. In a recent laboratory study, observers made more offside judgments against forwards wearing the outfit of Schalke 04 (blue shirts, white shorts) than against forwards wearing the outfit of Borussia Dortmund (yellow shirts, black shorts), when figure-background luminance contrast was higher for the former team. Here, we investigated whether a similar effect is present in real matches of the German Bundesliga. Study 1 revealed a higher offside score for Schalke 04 than for Borussia Dortmund in matches between these clubs. Studies 2–4 showed higher offside scores for teams wearing a blue/white outfit, and lower offside scores for teams wearing a yellow/black outfit, in their matches against all other Bundesliga teams. Together, results suggest that more offside judgments are made against teams of higher salience, possibly induced by differences in figure-background contrast. Notably, this color-related bias occurred in our study even though a Video-Assistant Referee (VAR) supervised the (offside) decisions of the Assistant Referees. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The traditional shirt ("ie") is the most well-known element of Romanian anonymous textile art. Apart from aesthetic and utilitarian roles, it has strong symbolic significance, mainly through the colours used for decoration. Very recently, the traditional shirt with decoration over the shoulder ("ia cu altiță") was introduced as a Romanian identity element as part of UNESCO heritage. Depending on the ethnographic area, the traditional shirt with decoration over the shoulder has acquired special expressive particularities over time. Particularly relevant is that from Valea Hârtibaciului, an area of Transylvania in the very centre of Romania. Although sober in appearance with large fields of white plain weave, it is discreetly decorated with elaborated embroidery on the sleeve bracelets, over the shoulders and neck. Even the colour range and decoration motifs remain unchanged in time, evolution in the materials used and a subtle transition from natural hues to more strident alternatives were observed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. For the present study, samples were taken from representative objects in the collections of the ASTRA Museum, Sibiu and Ethnographical Museum, Brasov, documented as belonging to the area of Valea Hârtibaciului and dated in the museum archives as from the late 19th and early 20th century. The textile materials and the dyes used in the shirts' embroidery were monitored. Fibre identification was made by optical microscopy and infrared spectroscopy (FTIR-ATR). Dye analysis was performed by liquid chromatography coupled with UV-Vis (diode array) detection, while some of the samples were also analysed by liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometric detection (LC-DAD-MS). Dyes were extracted from the fibres by acid hydrolysis. Identification was based on data collected on standards, dyes and dyed fibres. For the early synthetic dyes, a dedicated library of references was built, which includes information relative to the most relevant representatives used between 1850 and 1900, the 'Helmut Schweppe list'. According to the study, in the last decades of the 19th century, natural dye sources such as dyer's broom, madder, Mexican cochineal and indigoid dyes were gradually replaced by early synthetic dyes: fuchsine (1856), methyl violet (1861), synthetic alizarin (1871), brilliant green (1879), azo flavine 3R (1880), rhodamine B (1887) and others. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, we discuss a community-based knitting project that is a response to the Canadian Truth and Reconciliation Commission’s Call to Action to educate about the legacy of Indigenous Residential Schools. We highlight the need to keep the concept of reconciliation active by using it’s verb form to point to the need for ongoing work. We next focus on the ways in which The Orange Shirt Project (TSOP) touches on both Indigenous pedagogies and the responsibility of public pedagogues, such as university faculty, to engage in work that enacts public agency. Finally, we tie our work back to the importance of relationships and relational ethics in doing the work of reconciling. Our goal is to show this project as a reproducable form of activism tht can occur in multiple contexts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In order to better identify the detailed element features of garments,a Faster R-CNN network model with recurrent structure was proposed by taking the collar of shirt as an example.The Faster R-CNN network was used to complete the first-level recognition of the collar and the interception of its bounding box,and then the network components were recycled to achieve the recognition and classification of the second-level detail features of the collar.The weight penalty method was used to set three groups of class weights to solve the problem of imbalanced samples among each class in the shirt collar dataset.The experimental results showe that the mean average precision of the network increased from 96.23% to 98.79% after changing the class weights,and the weighting coefficient of the class with the highest percentage of samples to control the weights can effectively improve the detection precision of the model.Since the image intercepted after the first-level recognition only contained the collar area,which can highlight the target,the accuracy of the second-level classification reaches 97.09%,and the method further improves the recognition effect of collar detail features,which provides a new method and idea for the accurate recognition of garment styles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The old fibers that make up heritage textiles displayed in museums are degraded by the aging process, environmental conditions (microclimates, particulate matter, pollutants, sunlight) and the action of microorganisms. In order to counteract these processes and keep the textile exhibits in good condition for as long as possible, both reactive and preventive interventions on them are necessary. Based on these ideas, the present study aims to test a natural and non-invasive method of cleaning historic textiles, which includes the use of a natural substance with a known antifungal effect (being traditionally used in various rural communities)—lye. The design of the study was aimed at examining a traditional women's shirt that is aged between 80–100 years, using artificial intelligence techniques for Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) imagery analysis and X-ray powder diffraction technique in order to achieve a complex and accurate investigation and monitoring of the object's realities. The determinations were performed both before and after washing the material with lye. SEM microscopy investigations of the ecologically washed textile specimens showed that the number of microorganism colonies, as well as the amount of dust, decreased. It was also observed that the surface cellulose fibers lost their integrity, eventually being loosened on cellulose fibers of cotton threads. This could better visualize the presence of microfibrils that connect the cellulose fibers in cotton textiles. The results obtained could be of real value both for the restorers, the textile collections of the different museums, and for the researchers in the field of cultural heritage. By applying such a methodology, cotton tests can be effectively cleaned without compromising the integrity of the material. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

I have made this series of prints as a reminder of my dad, and lots of dads, who had shirts for work and shirts for best, and who would have given you the shirt off their backs if asked. Even now, I sometimes see a shirt in a shop and think, "Dad would like that, it would really suit him." When my dad died at the age of 85, it fell to me to sort out his possessions. [Extracted from the article]

Energy efficiency is one of the key aspects in energy transition, especially in building construction. One of the important things is also thermal comfort of the individuals. In this article, the design and the first results for the novel sensor device used to measure skin temperature are presented at two points used for purposes of estimating thermal comfort, a subjective feeling expressing the satisfaction with the thermal environment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This work brings in its scope some analyzes around the constructive methodology of a case study that refers to the implantation of a dolphin (a structure that in this case has the purpose of mooring ships) at Pier III, located in Ponta da Madeira Maritime Terminal, in the city of São Luís, Maranhão, and with a focus on the process of building its infrastructure, more precisely the adopted foundation. This type of work, being port and in a maritime environment is called offshore, the foundation used in this case is the deep type, more precisely called piles excavated with a lost metallic shirt whose constructional scope will be detailed in this work, from the driving from shirts to concreting the piles that made up the system. The theme is approached from a practical and theoretical point of view, with a probabilistic study of the load capacity of foundations based on geometrical data from surveys carried out in the region, in order to define results that include any variability of the location and guarantee functionality and safety necessary for the foundation to achieve the project's objectives and be optimized throughout its useful life. The analysis of the probability of rupture was made using the semi-empirical method of Aoki-Velloso, combined with the First Order Second Moment method in order to compare the result achieved with the established parameter values. The work also aims to serve as a basis for future guidance and guidance on the topic, which does not have such a vast bibliography, mainly in view of the installation of new similar projects in the region and in other locations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As a site of performance, the aloha shirt has been adopted by different social groups and functions as a contested site of meaning and memory, concealing and calling out histories of racial hierarchy, white supremacy, and conquest. This article uses the boogaloo movement's "aloha shirt uniform" as an opportunity to reengage with a discussion about the role the attire plays in popular imagination. An analysis of different uses of aloha wear by Hawaiians, Hawai'i residents, and boogaloo members demonstrates that location and context impact the shirt's distinct visibility and dictate how its contested meanings are understood. It also contends that the distinction between the aloha shirt as a signifier of a multicultural tropical paradise and the boogaloo movement's use of it as a symbol of white nationalism is not as disconnected as some make it out to be. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Augmentation-mastopexy is a frequent procedure with high rates of early recurrence of breast ptosis, mainly after subglandular approach. The dual-plane techniques, based on the cranial dissection of the pectoralis, is the most used, but this plane does not cover the inferior pole of the breast. Then, the possibility of a downward dissection of the muscle seems to be more reasonable to retain the implant and improve postoperative results. This study aimed to review the anatomy of the pectoralis in cadavers and the use of its downward dissection to create a pocket for breast implant as a "shirt pocket." This maneuver was associated with a superior-based dermoglandular flap to overprotect the inferior pole. No complications were related in the postoperative period. The anatomic review showed that the "shirt pocket" is a safe option if done carefully. The technique demonstrated to be feasible and seemed to be effective, being another alternative to prevent early recurrence of breast ptosis in these procedures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There is a desire in the forensic science community for a robust tool for detecting trace DNA at the crime scene or on collected evidence. Recent research supports the fluorescent DNA-binding dye Diamond Dye (DD) as potentially effective for this purpose. However, additional research is required into the use of DD on trace DNA samples collected from mock evidence (e.g. clothing) to establish its practicality in an operational setting. Most importantly, any tool for detecting trace DNA must have no negative impact on downstream processes and must produce a reliable signal of presence/absence of DNA. Therefore, we aimed to determine whether DD staining of tapelifts taken from mock clothing exhibits impacts DNA yield and STR profiling success, and whether observed fluorescence on stained tapelifts corresponded with DNA yield. Using a paired sample approach of stained/unstained tapelifts from the same item, our results suggest that DD-stained tapelift samples generally recovered less DNA than unstained tapelifts, which resulted in poorer STR profiling success. Further, there was no association between the degree of fluorescence observed for stained tapelifts and DNA yield or STR profiling success. Taken together, these results suggest that DD staining may not be suitable for detecting trace DNA on tapelifts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article deals with an analysis of the activities carried out by employees of a company in the textile sector focused on making shirts and located in the Alto Paranaíba region, Minas Gerais. The work aimed to carry out a diagnosis of the extent to which the company uses process management and understand how the concepts of quality are disseminated throughout the organization, with the aim of mapping the shirt production process in order to identify existing problems. The observations and interviews carried out in the company showed that it does not effectively use process management, and does not apply quality management tools. One of the main problems identified was the lack of standardization of the product, and through the tools used throughout the article, it was possible to propose improvements in order to contribute to the growth of the production and expand the authors' knowledge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Association Football (hereafter football) is a fast-moving sport in which rapid decisions need to be made; where are other players, are they on my team? Two experiments investigated how kit variations affect the search of teammates. Experiment 1 confirmed that discriminability is slower when playing in crossed kits (e.g., red shirts-blue shorts vs. blue shirts-red shorts), versus uniform kits (e.g., all red vs. all blue). Experiment 2 found that there is significant confusion when both teams wear the same-coloured shorts. Based on these findings, we suggest changes to the Laws of the game concerning kit colours. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper seeks primarily to survey the evidence for the involvement of Liverpool traders and dealers in the profitable slop trade supplying the Royal Navy and the ever increasing merchant fleet involved in the slave trade from Africa across the Atlantic. It will provide examples that suggest that Liverpool was ideally placed, fiercely independent and commercially dominant, to be able to seize a sizeable portion of the trade in ready-made slop clothing for its resident merchants and sailors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Harry Styles is one of the most popular faces in the music industry, yet the scholarly discourse around him is lacking. Perhaps he is seen to be not worthy of study given his 'artificial' beginnings in a boy band created for the X Factor. However, the evolution of Styles has been a complex journey and his current presentation of fluid masculinity and fashion, undefined sexuality, and political activation, seem to demonstrate an original self. This article is a counter claim to the many ways that Styles has been constructed, instead presenting him as a cultural figure worthy of study. The discussion also contains discourse about the phenomenon and gender performance of boy bands, to explore Styles's evolution from a teenage heartthrob in chinos and polo shirts in 2010, to becoming the 2019 host of the Met Gala in a sheer blouse, heeled boots, and a pearl earring. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]