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Beach slope is a critical parameter to, e.g., beach safety, wave reflection at the coast and longshore transport rate. However, it is usually considered as a time-invariant and profile-average parameter. Here, we apply a state-of-the-art equilibrium model to hindcast beach slope variability from the time scales of days to years at the high-energy meso-macrotidal sandy beach of Truc Vert, southwest France. We use 9 years of bimonthly beach surveys to compute beach slope time series at different elevations. Results show that beach slope exhibits an equilibrium response with contrasting behaviors along two distinct areas of the beach profile. From 0 to 2 m above mean sea level, which is located under the berm crest, a slope response predominantly at the storm time scale is observed. The beach slope steepens under low energy waves, with the equilibrium model explaining up to 40% of the observed beach slope variability. In contrast, from 2.5 to 4 m above mean sea level, which is above the berm crest, the beach slope steepens under high-energy waves. Within this region of the beach profile, the response time scale increases upwards from seasonal (~2.5 m) to seasonal (~4 m), with the model explaining up to 65% of the observed beach slope variability. Such behaviors are found to be enforced by the berm dynamics developing from the end of the winter to early autumn, providing new perspectives to model and predict beach slope on sandy beaches. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The goal of the work presented in a two-companion paper is to pave the way for reliably assessing the risks of damage to buildings on the shore, induced by the detonation of unexploded historical ordnance (UXO) of large weights in variable shallow water environments with a water depth less than 50 m. The risk assessment is quantified through the seismic magnitude on the Richter scale, induced by the detonation of charges of different weights (between 80- and 680-kg TNT-equivalent). This metric is investigated experimentally using a coupled seismo-acoustic approach within the framework of a UXO clearance (countermining) campaign in the Mediterranean Sea. Analysis of real acoustic and seismic data shows that, compared to a charge detonation in water, a similar detonation on the seabed generates seismic signals of lower frequencies and higher amplitudes that propagate in the seabed. The larger the charge weight, the higher the seismic amplitude. Besides the explosion-coast distance, the ground properties also affect the signals. The sediments favor a longer signal duration and the presence of late dispersive and very low-frequency signals with a large amplitude, whereas the rocky grounds better preserve the high-frequency energy propagation. For the local environment considered in this study, a charge detonation on the seafloor generates seismic events of higher magnitudes compared to a detonation in water. However, these magnitudes are likely low enough to prevent any large damage in the nearby inland infrastructures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The goal of this work presented in a two-companion paper is to pave the way for reliably assessing the risks of damage to buildings on the shore, induced by the detonation of large-charge historical ordnance (i.e., countermining) in variable shallow water environments. Here, we focus on the impact of the marine environment, more specifically the unconsolidated sedimentary layer, on detonation-induced seismo-acoustic wave propagation. We rely on a multidisciplinary cross-study including real data obtained within the framework of a countermining campaign, and numerical simulations of the seismo-acoustic propagation using a spectral-element method. We first develop a strategy relying on physical insights into the different kind of waves that can propagate in a coastal environment, to provide clues for a computational cost reduction. The geological surveys and the hydroacoustic measurements provide input data for the 3-D axisymmetric modeling of wave propagation. The numerical simulations, obtained for one specific source–receiver path with a variable sedimentary facies, are compared with the real seismic data induced by the detonation of a charge either on the seabed, or in the water column, and recorded on the coast. Numerical analysis sheds light on the strong interaction between surface waves and the sedimentary facies. The short-scale and deep sedimentary basins favor a local wave-amplitude amplification and a frequency shift toward the low-frequency domain. However, the seismo-acoustic waves are globally attenuated during their propagation because of intrinsic attenuation and geometrical spreading, which generally prevents any large damage to nearby buildings on the shore. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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The capacity to monitor suspended sediment concentrations (SSCs) in the ocean, from surface to bottom, using data acquired by the future Meteosat Third-Generation (MTG)/flexible combined imager (FCI) satellite sensor has been quantified by observing system simulation experiments (OSSEs). The “true” ocean state for these experiments is based on a 15-month numerical simulation of hydrodynamic and sediment transport, configured to represent the highly dynamical waters of the English Channel under the influences of tides and waves. Simulated MTG/FCI hourly averaged acquisitions at a given location near the Isle of Wight have been processed via hidden Markov model combined with a statistical classification—based on self-organizing maps—of predicted vertical SSC profiles. The resulting experiments demonstrated that MTG/FCI images, despite their high temporal resolution, and because of many gaps due to nights and clouds over the English Channel, still require spatial interpolations to enhance the amount of information available at a given location. For an accurate determination of particle concentrations, time series of the main forcing (wind, tides, and waves) need to be included in the process: 1) as a crucial parameter correlated with the dynamics of large particles (sands) and 2) as an equally important parameter as satellite data themselves in the correlation with the dynamics of fine particles (silts). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A global seabed sediment map has been developed since 1995 to provide a necessary tool for different needs. This project is not completely original since it had already been done in 1912 when the French hydrographic Office and the University of Nancy produced sedimentary maps of the European and North American coasts. Seabed sediments is one of the last geographical domains which can't benefit of satellite data. Without this contribution, sediment maps need to use very old data mixed with the new ones to be able to reach the goal of a global map. In general, sediment maps are made with the latest available techniques and are replaced after a few decades, thus generating new cartographic works as if all the previous efforts had become useless. Such approach underestimates the quality of past works and prevents to have maps covering large areas. The present work suggests to standardize all kind of sedimentary data from different periods and from very different acquisition systems and integrate them into a single product. This process has already been done for bathymetric data of marine charts, we discuss in this article of the application of this method at a global scale for sediment data. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A global seabed sediment map has been developed since 1995 to provide a necessary tool for different needs. This project is not completely original since it had already been done in 1912 when the French hydrographic Office and the University of Nancy produced sedimentary maps of the European and North American coasts. Seabed sediments is one of the last geographical domains which can't benefit of satellite data. Without this contribution, sediment maps need to use very old data mixed with the new ones to be able to reach the goal of a global map. In general, sediment maps are made with the latest available techniques and are replaced after a few decades, thus generating new cartographic works as if all the previous efforts had become useless. Such approach underestimates the quality of past works and prevents to have maps covering large areas. The present work suggests to standardize all kind of sedimentary data from different periods and from very different acquisition systems and integrate them into a single product. This process has already been done for bathymetric data of marine charts, we discuss in this article of the application of this method at a global scale for sediment data. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study reports on diversity and distribution of planktonic foraminifera (PF) in the Barents Sea Opening (BSO). Populations of PF living in late summer (collected by means of stratified plankton tows) and recently deposited individuals (sampled by interface corer) were compared. High abundances reaching up to 400 ind.m-3 in tow samples and 8000 ind.m-3 in surface sediments were recorded in the centre of the studied area while low abundances were observed in coastal areas, likely due to continental influences. The living and core-top assemblages are mainly composed of the same four species Neogloboquadrina pachyderma, Neogloboquadrina incompta , Turborotalita quinqueloba and Globigerinita uvula. The two species G. uvula and T. quinqueloba dominate the upper water column, whereas surface sediment assemblages display particularly high concentrations of N. pachyderma. The unusual dominance of G. uvula in the water sample assemblages compared to its low proportion in surface sediments might be the signature of (1) a seasonal signal due to summer phytoplankton composition changes at the BSO, linked to the increase in summer temperature at the study site, and/or (2) a signal of a larger timescale and wider geographical reach phenomenon reflecting poleward temperate/subpolar species migration and consecutive foraminiferal assemblage diversification at high latitudes due to global change. Protein concentrations were measured on single specimens and used as a proxy of individual carbon biomass. Specimens of all species show the same trend, a northward decrease in their size-normalized-protein concentration. This suggests that foraminiferal biomass is potentially controlled by different constituents of their organelles (e.g. lipids). The coupling of data from plankton tows, protein measurements and surface sediments allows us to hypothesize that PF dynamics (seasonality and distribution) are decoupled from their metabolism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study reports on species diversity and distribution of planktonic foraminifera (PF) at the Barents Sea Opening (BSO). PF populations living in late summer (collected by mean of stratified plankton tows) and recently settled individuals (sampled by interface corer) were studied and compared. High abundances reaching up to 400 ind.m-3 in tow samples and 8000 ind.cm-3 in surface sediments were recorded in the centre of the studied area while low abundances were observed in coastal areas, likely hampered by continental influences. The living and subfossil (i.e. core-top) assemblages are mainly composed of the four same species Neogloboquadrina pachyderma, Neogloboquadrina incompta, Turborotalita quinqueloba and Globigerinita uvula. The two species G. uvula and T. quinqueloba largely dominate the upper water column whereas surface sediment assemblages display especially high concentrations of N. pachyderma. The unusual dominance of G. uvula in the water sample assemblages compared to its low occurrence in surface sediments might be the signature of (1) a seasonal signal due to summer phytoplankton composition changes at the BSO, linked to the increase of summer temperature at the study site, and/or (2) a signal of a larger time-scale and wide geographical reach phenomenon inducing poleward temperate/subpolar species migration and consecutive foraminiferal assemblage diversification at high latitudes under global climate forcing. Protein concentrations were measured on single specimens and used as a proxy of individual carbon biomass. Specimens of all species show the same trend, i.e. a northward decrease of their size-normalized-protein concentration suggesting foraminiferal biomass to be potentially controlled by different constituents of their organelles (e.g. lipids). The originality of coupling data from plankton tows, protein measurements and surface sediments allows us to hypothesise that PF dynamics (seasonality and distribution) is decoupled from their metabolism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The effects of changes in slope gradient on deposition processes and architecture have been investigated in different deep-sea systems both in modern and ancient environments. However, the impact of subtle gradient changes (< 0.3 ∘) on sedimentary processes along deep-sea fans still needs to be clarified. The Ogooue Fan, located in the northeastern part of the Gulf of Guinea, extends over more than 550 km westwards of the Gabonese shelf and passes through the Cameroon volcanic line. Here, we present the first study of acoustic data (multibeam echosounder and 3.5 kHz, very high-resolution seismic data) and piston cores covering the deep-sea part of this West African system. This study documents the architecture and sedimentary facies distribution along the fan. Detailed mapping of near-seafloor seismic-reflection data reveals the influence of subtle slope gradient changes (< 0.2 ∘) along the fan morphology. The overall system corresponds to a well-developed deep-sea fan, fed by the Ogooue River sedimentary load, with tributary canyons, distributary channel–levee complexes and lobe elements. However, variations in the slope gradient due to inherited salt-related structures and the presence of several seamounts, including volcanic islands, result in a topographically complex slope profile including several ramps and steps. In particular, turbidity currents derived from the Gabonese shelf deposit cross several interconnected intra-slope basins located on the low gradient segments of the margin (< 0.3 ∘). On a higher gradient segment of the slope (0.6 ∘), a large mid-system valley developed connecting an intermediate sedimentary basin to the more distal lobe area. Distribution and thickness of turbidite sands is highly variable along the system. However, turbidite sands are preferentially deposited on the floor of the channel and the most proximal depositional areas. Core description indicates that the upper parts of the turbidity flows, mainly composed of fine-grained sediments, are found in the most distal depocenters. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Ogooue deep-sea Fan located in the northeastern part of the Gulf of Guinea expands over more than 550 km westwards of the Gabonese shelf and passes through the Cameroun volcanic line. Here are presented the first study of acoustic data (multibeam echosounder and 3.5 kHz seismic data) and piston cores covering the deep-sea part of this West African system. This study led to the construction of the sedimentary processes map of this area. The overall system corresponds to a well-developed mud-sand rich deep-sea fan, fed by the Ogooue River 'sedimentary load. This system presents the typical morphological elements of clastic slope apron: tributary canyons, distributary channel-levees systems and lobes elements. However, variations on the slope gradient cumulated with the presence of numerous seamounts, including volcanic islands and mud volcanoes, led to a more complex fan architecture and sedimentary facies distribution. In particular, turbidity currents derived from the Gabonese shelf deposit across several interconnected sedimentary sub-basins located on the low gradient segments of the margin. The repeated spill-overs of the most energetic turbidite flows have notably led to the incision of a large distal valley connecting an intermediate sedimentary basin to the more distal lobe area. The sedimentary facies repartition over the fan indicates that pelagic to hemipelagic sedimentation is dominant across the area. Distribution and thickness of turbidite sand beds is highly variable along the system, however turbidite sands preferentially deposit in the bottom of channel-levee systems and on the most proximal depositional areas. The most distal depocenters receive only the upper parts of the flows, which are composed of fine-grained sediments. The Ogooue deep-sea system is predominantly active during periods of low sea-level because canyon heads are separated from terrestrial sediment sources by the broad shelf. However, the northern part of this system appears active during sea-level highstands. This feature is one deeply incised canyon, the Cape Lopez canyon, located on a narrower part of the continental shelf has a different behaviour and receives sediments transported by the longshore drift. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tidal sand dune dynamics is observed for two tidal cycles in the Arcachon tidal inlet, southwest France. An array of instruments is deployed to measure bathymetric and current variations along dune profiles. Based on the measurements, dune crest horizontal and vertical displacements are quantified and show important dynamics in phase with tidal currents. We observed superimposed ripples on the dune stoss side and front, migrating and changing polarity as tidal currents reverse. A 2D RANS numerical model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of a flat non-cohesive sand bed submitted to a tidal current. The model reproduces the bed evolution until a field of sand bedforms is obtained that are comparable with observed superimposed ripples in terms of geometrical dimensions and dynamics. The model is then applied to simulate the dynamics of a field of large sand dunes of similar size as the dunes observed in situ. In both cases, simulation results compare well with measurements qualitatively and quantitatively. This research allows for a better understanding of tidal sand dune and superimposed ripple morphodynamics and opens new perspectives for the use of numerical models to predict their evolution. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

ABSTRACT Garlan, T.; Mathias, X.; Brenon E.; Favretto-Cristini, N.; Deschamps, A.; Beucler, E., Guyomard P., and Morio, O., 2018. Circular sedimentary figures of anthropic origin in a sediment stability context. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 411–415. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The French POSA project studies the seismic energy released by bomb and mine blasting. This project is based on seismological and acoustical measurements recording during blasting actions in order to study seismic wave propagation nucleated by controlled sources (location and explosive energy). These measurements are compared to numerical modeling of the acoustic and seismic wave propagation based on the most faithful 3D representation of the seabed sediments and underlying rocks. This project first focused on the 3D environment representation based on specific surveys and on two blasting experiments which consist in exploding bombs of different loads at two distinct environmental places. The in-situ measurements reveal several hundred circular figures with very specific characteristics which clearly differentiate them from other sedimentary, biological and geological figures encountered on the seabed. They are found within the whole studied area and their diameter is from 10 to 130 m. About 30 circles by kilometer square are observed without correlation with the depth which varies from 10 to 150m. These sedimentary structures indicate that they have been generated by the explosion of bombs, but at different periods. The oldest ones most probably result from bombs dropped in 1940 and 1944 during the landing of the Allied forces in the region of Toulon. These original anthropic sedimentary figures and their differences compared with other circular structures observed on the seabed are described. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Garlan, T.; Mathias, X.; Brenon E.; Favretto-Cristini, N.; Deschamps, A.; Beucler, E., Guyomard P., and Morio, O., 2018. Circular sedimentary figures of anthropic origin in a sediment stability context. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 411–415. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The French POSA project studies the seismic energy released by bomb and mine blasting. This project is based on seismological and acoustical measurements recording during blasting actions in order to study seismic wave propagation nucleated by controlled sources (location and explosive energy). These measurements are compared to numerical modeling of the acoustic and seismic wave propagation based on the most faithful 3D representation of the seabed sediments and underlying rocks. This project first focused on the 3D environment representation based on specific surveys and on two blasting experiments which consist in exploding bombs of different loads at two distinct environmental places. The in-situ measurements reveal several hundred circular figures with very specific characteristics which clearly differentiate them from other sedimentary, biological and geological figures encountered on the seabed. They are found within the whole studied area and their diameter is from 10 to 130 m. About 30 circles by kilometer square are observed without correlation with the depth which varies from 10 to 150m. These sedimentary structures indicate that they have been generated by the explosion of bombs, but at different periods. The oldest ones most probably result from bombs dropped in 1940 and 1944 during the landing of the Allied forces in the region of Toulon. These original anthropic sedimentary figures and their differences compared with other circular structures observed on the seabed are described. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Hydro-sedimentary numerical models have been widely employed to derive suspended particulate matter (SPM) concentrations in coastal and estuarine waters. These hydro-sedimentary models are computationally and technically expensive in nature. Here we have used a computationally less-expensive, well-established methodology of self-organizing maps (SOMs) along with a hidden Markov model (HMM) to derive profiles of suspended particulate inorganic matter (SPIM). The concept of the proposed work is to benefit from all available data sets through the use of fusion methods and machine learning approaches that are able to process a growing amount of available data. This approach is applied to two different data sets entitled "Hidden" and "Observable". The hidden data are composed of 15 months (27 September 2007 to 30 December 2008) of hourly SPIM profiles extracted from the Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS). The observable data include forcing parameter variables such as significant wave heights (Hs and Hs50 (50 days)) from the Wavewatch 3-HOMERE database and barotropic currents (Ubar and Vbar) from the Iberian-Biscay-Irish (IBI) reanalysis data. These observable data integrate hourly surface samples from 1 February 2002 to 31 December 2012. The time-series profiles of the SPIM have been derived from four different stations in the English Channel by considering 15 months of output hidden data from the ROMS as a statistical representation of the ocean for ≈11 years. The derived SPIM profiles clearly show seasonal and tidal fluctuations in accordance with the parent numerical model output. The surface SPIM concentrations of the derived model have been validated with satellite remote sensing data. The time series of the modeled SPIM and satellite-derived SPIM show similar seasonal fluctuations. The ranges of concentrations for the four stations are also in good agreement with the corresponding satellite data. The high accuracy of the estimated 25 h average surface SPIM concentrations (normalized root-mean-square error--NRMSE of less than 16%) is the first step in demonstrating the robustness of the method. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the Ionian Sea, the subduction of the Nubia plate underneath the Eurasia plate leads to an important sediment remobilization on the Calabrian Arc and the Mediterranean Ridge. These events are often associated with earthquakes and tsunamis. In this study, we analyze gravity-driven deposits in order to establish their recurrence time on the Calabrian Arc and the western Mediterranean Ridge. Four gravity cores collected on ridges and slope basins of accretionary prisms record turbidites, megaturbidites, slumping and micro-faults over the last 330,000 years. These turbidites were dated by correlation with a hemipelagic core with a multi-proxy approach: radiometric dating, δ18O, b* colour curve, sapropels and tephrochronology. The origin of the gravity-driven deposits was studied with a sedimentary approach: grain-size, lithology, thin section, geochemistry of volcanic glass. The results suggest three periods of presence/absence of gravity-driven deposits: a first on the western lobe of the Calabrian Arc between 330,000 and 250,000 years, a second between 120,000 years and present day on the eastern lobe of the Calabrian Arc and over the last 60,000 years on the western lobe, and a third on the Mediterranean Ridge over the last 37,000 years. Return times for gravity-driven deposits are around 1,000 years during the most important record periods. The turbidite activity also highlights the presence of volcaniclastic turbidites that seems to be link to the Etna changing morphology over the last 320,000 years. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study describes the building of a common erosion law for fine sand and mud, mixed or not, in the case of a typical continental shelf environment, the Bay of Biscay shelf, characterized by slightly energetic conditions and a seabed mainly composed of fine sand and muddy sediments. A 3D realistic hydro-sedimentary model was used to assess the influence of the erosion law setting on sediment dynamics (turbidity, seabed evolution). A pure sand erosion law was applied when the mud fraction in the surficial sediment was lower than a first critical value, and a pure mud erosion law above a second critical value. Both sand and mud erosion laws are formulated similarly, with different parameters (erodibility parameter, critical shear stress and power of the excess shear stress). Several transition trends (linear or exponential) describing variations in these erosion-related parameters between the two critical mud fractions were tested. Suspended sediment concentrations obtained from simulations were compared to measurements taken on the Bay of Biscay shelf with an acoustic profiler over the entire water column. On the one hand, results show that defining an abrupt exponential transition improves model results regarding measurements. On the other hand, they underline the need to define a first critical mud fraction of 10 to 20%, corresponding to a critical clay content of 3-6%, below which pure sand erosion should be prescribed. Both conclusions agree with results of experimental studies reported in the literature mentioning a drastic change in erosion mode above a critical clay content of 2-10% in the mixture. Results also provide evidence for the importance of considering advection in this kind of validation with in situ observations, which is likely to considerably influence both water column and seabed sediment dynamics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Long-studied with respect to its sedimentological features (1897), the Bay of Brest (Western Britanny, France) is a textbook example of a tide-dominated estuary. Characterised by macrotidal conditions, this estuary system is sheltered from the open sea (Iroise Sea) by a narrow strait that partitions the wave tide influences and continental/marine inputs. Sediments are supplied to the bay both by rivers (the Aulne and Elorn rivers) and by marine tidal currents. This study presents new analyses of detailed facies and morphological patterns, based on the integration of multisource data compiling seabed sampling, swath and LIDAR bathymetry, and backscatter imagery. TheMain Map, at a scale of 1:90,000, contains (1) a sedimentological distribution using the ‘Code Manche’ classification, (2) a morphological map, and (3) bathymetric mapping which presents the morphology of marine and terrestrial landforms. This work may lay the foundation for a future study on sedimentary transport in a unique and confined coastal environment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sea trials were performed on two zones with different fishing efforts on the continental shelf of the Bay of Biscay ('Grande-Vasière' area of muddy sand) in order to assess particulate matter resuspension and seabed disturbances (i.e., penetration, reworking, grain size changes) induced by different types of trawls. Optical and acoustic measurements made in the water column indicate a significant trawling-induced resuspension mainly due to the scraping action of doors. It manifests as a highly dynamic turbid plume confined near the seabed, where suspended sediment concentrations can reach 200 mg l. Concentration levels measured behind an 'alternative' configuration (trawls with jumper doors instead of classical doors penetrating the sediment) are significantly lower (around 10-20 mg l), which indicates a potential limiting impact regarding the seabed. Grain size analyses of the surficial sediment led to highlight a potential reworking influence of bottom trawling. On the intensively trawled zone, this reworking manifests as an upward coarsening trend in the first 5 cm of the cores. A significant decrease in mud content (30 %) has been also witnessed on this zone between 1967 and 2014, which suggests an influence on the seabed evolution. The geometric analysis of bottom tracks (4-5-cm depth, 20-cm width) observed with a benthic video sledge was used to compute an experimental trawling-induced erosion rate of 0.13 kg m. This erosion rate was combined with fishing effort data, in order to estimate trawling-induced erosion fluxes which were then compared to natural erosion fluxes over the Grande-Vasière at monthly, seasonal and annual scales. Winter storms control the annual resuspended load and trawling contribution to annual resuspension is in the order of 1 %. However, results show that trawling resuspension can become dominant during the fishing high season (i.e., until several times the natural one in summer). In addition, the contribution of trawling-induced resuspension is shown to increase with water depth, because of the rapid decay of wave effects. Finally, the seasonal evolution of the respective contributions for erosion (mainly trawling and waves) could be mapped for the whole study area. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Defining a model for the representation and the analysis of spatio-temporal dynamics remains an open domain in geographical information sciences. In this article we investigate a spatio-temporal graph-based model dedicated to managing and extracting sets of geographical entities related in space and time. The approach is based on spatial and temporal local relations between neighboring entities during consecutive times. The model allows us to extract sets of connected entities distant in time and space over long periods and large spaces. From GIS concepts and qualitative reasoning on space and time, we combine the graph model with a dedicated spatial database. It includes information on geometry and geomorphometric parameters, and on spatial and temporal relations. This allows us to extend classical measurements of spatial parameters, with comparisons of entities linked by complex relations in space and time. As a case study, we show how the model suggests an efficient representation of dunes dynamics on a nautical chart for safe navigation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sénéchal, N., Sottolichio A., Bertrand, F., Goeldner-Giannella, L., Garlan, T., 2013. Analysis of currents and storm surge in a mixed-energy tidal inlet during storm conditions. Coastal morphodynamic processes around tidal inlets in mixed-energy environments are particularly complex due to severe tide and wave conditions. Collecting data in this area is generally very challenging. Here we present the first hydrodynamic data collected in the outer inlet of the Arcachon lagoon, a mixed-energy inlet situated on the southern part of the French Atlantic coast. Data consist in vertical current profiles and sea surface elevations collected on the offshore edge of the ebb delta under various tidal and wave conditions. In particular data were collected during the severe Joachim storm associated to wave heights up to 8 m. Preliminary results indicate that current profiles, intensities and direction are very sensitive to wave conditions. Under energetic conditions, the vertical profile of currents become uniform and the longshore drift is enhanced (up to 1.5 m/s). Nevertheless data show that under severe wave conditions (Hm0 > 6.0m) and despite high incidence of waves, the longshore drift is weaker (l< 1 m/s) than under 'usual' storm conditions associated to Hm0 = 4 - 5m. More surprisingly, directions of the longshore drift are not always consistent with wave incidence under those severe storm conditions and the cross-shore components are very weak while under less energetic conditions we observe intense offshore currents (up to 0.8 m/s). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A large multi-institutional nearshore field experiment was conducted at Truc Vert, on the Atlantic coast of France in early 2008. Truc Vert'08 was designed to measure beach change on a long, sandy stretch of coast without engineering works with emphasis on large winter waves (offshore significant wave height up to 8 m), a three-dimensional morphology, and macro-tidal conditions. Nearshore wave transformation, circulation and bathymetric changes involve coupled processes at many spatial and temporal scales thus implying the need to improve our knowledge for the full spectrum of scales to achieve a comprehensive view of the natural system. This experiment is unique when compared with existing experiments because of the simultaneous investigation of processes at different scales, both spatially (from ripples to sand banks) and temporally (from single swash events to several spring-neap tidal cycles, including a major storm event). The purpose of this paper is to provide background information on the experiment by providing detailed presentation of the instrument layout and snapshots of preliminary results. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigates the morphology and Late Quaternary sediment distribution of the Makran turbidite system (Makran subduction zone, north-west Indian Ocean) from a nearly complete subsurface mapping of the Oman basin, two-dimensional seismic and a large set of coring data in order to characterize turbidite system architecture across an active (fold and thrust belt) margin. The Makran turbidite system is composed of a dense network of canyons, which cut into high relief accreted ridges and intra-slope piggyback basins, forming at some locations connected and variably tortuous paths down complex slopes. Turbidite activity and trench filling rates are high even during the Holocene sea-level highstand conditions. In particular, basin-wide, sheet-like thick mud turbidites, probably related to major mass wasting events of low recurrence time, drape the flat and unchannellized Oman abyssal plain. Longitudinal depth profiles show that the Makran canyons are highly disrupted by numerous thrust-related large-scale knickpoints (with gradients up to 20° and walls up to 500 m high). At the deformation front, the strong break of slope can lead to the formation of canyon-mouth 'plunge pools' of variable shapes and sizes. The plunge pools observed in the western Makran are considerably larger than those previously described in sub-surface successions; the first insights into their internal architecture and sedimentary processes are presented here. Large plunge pools in the western Makran are associated with large scoured areas at the slope break and enhanced sediment deposition downstream: high-amplitude reflectors are observed inside the plunge pools, while their flanks are composed of thin-bedded, fine-grained turbidites deposited by the uppermost part of the turbidity flows. Thus, these architectural elements are associated with strong sediment segregation leading to specific trench-fill mechanisms, as only the finer-grained component of the flows is transferred to the abyssal plain. However, the Makran accretionary prism is characterized by strong along-strike variability in tectonics and fluvial input distribution that might directly influence the turbidite system architecture (i.e. canyon entrenchment, plunge pool formation or channel development at canyon mouths), the sedimentary dynamics and the resulting sediment distribution. Channel formation in the abyssal plain and trench-fill characteristics depend on the theoretical 'equilibrium' conditions of the feeder system, which is related closely to the balance between erosion rates and tectonic regime. Thus, the Makran turbidite system constitutes an excellent modern analogue for deep-water sedimentary systems with structurally complex depocentres, in convergent margin settings. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The seafloor—or bathymetry—of the world's coastal waters remains largely unknown despite its primary importance to human activities and ecosystems. Here we present S2Shores (Satellite to Shores), the first sub-kilometer global atlas of coastal bathymetry based on depth inversion from wave kinematics captured by the Sentinel-2 constellation. The methodology reveals coastal seafloors up to a hundred meters in depth which allows covering most continental shelves and represents 4.9 million km 2 along the world coastline. Although the vertical accuracy (RMSE 6–9 m) is currently coarser than that of traditional surveying techniques, S2Shores is of particular interest to countries that do not have the means to carry out in situ surveys and to unexplored regions such as polar areas. S2Shores is a major step forward in mitigating the effects of global changes on coastal communities and ecosystems by providing scientists, engineers, and policy makers with new science-based decision tools. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A mine burial field experiment was carried out on two sandy seafloors between January and April 2004 in the Bay of Brest, France. Burial recording mines (BRMs) were used to measure burial and mine orientation at 15-rain intervals. Sonar and bottom photographs were also used to characterize sediment morphology and mine burial. These observations are compared with the predictions of mine burial using the following three models: a momentary liquefaction model, a current-induced scour model, and a wave-induced scour model. Analysis combines mine burial data, sediment data, seabed observations, and hydrodynamic measurements. At the first site, "Rascas," the seabed dynamics are dominated by tides and river runoff. Almost no mine burial was measured during the experiment which is in agreement with predictions of mine burial models (current-induced scour and liquefaction). Dynamics at the second site, "Bertheaume," are driven by tides and ocean waves. A long storm lone week) and several swell events were experienced and significant mine burial was observed in conjunction with high significant waveheights. Mine burial models suggest that burial at "Bertheaume" was dominated by wave-induced scour rather than current-induced scour or momentary liquefaction. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Side-scan sonar investigations in the eastern part of the macrotidal Bay of Seine have revealed the presence of numerous rippled scour depressions (RSDs) at water depths of 5-9 m. The sediments in these depressions consist essentially of coarse-grained shell hash derived from underlying Holocene sediments dated at roughly 6,500 yearsBP, and arranged in large wave-generated ripples. The shallow marine area where these features occur consists of a wave-generated ravinement surface produced during the marine flooding of the late Holocene transgression. It can be shown that, during the last 20 years at least, erosion of the muddy sand and sandy seabed has exposed underlying relict sediments. These consist of stiff clays, silts and a layer of shell debris which, when exposed, cover the bottom of large scour depressions which appear to be in equilibrium with the local hydrodynamic regime. Morphological and hydrodynamic data suggest that the RSDs are generated by strong cross-shore bottom currents flowing parallel to the features in the direction of the prevailing waves, and probably associated with storm-induced downwelling events. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Coastal erosion at Saint Louis in Senegal is affecting the local population that consists of primarily fishermen communities in their housing and their access to the sea. This paper aims at quantifying urban beach erosion at Saint Louis, Senegal, West Africa which is located on the northern end of the 13 km long Langue de Barbarie sand spit. The coastal evolution is examined quantitatively over a yearly period using Pleiades sub-metric satellite imagery that allows for stereogrammetry to derive Digital Elevation Models (DEMs). The comparison with ground truth data shows sub-metric differences to the satellite DEMs. Despite its interest in remote areas and developing countries that cannot count on regular surveys, the accuracy of the satellite-derived topography is in the same order as the coastal change itself, which emphasizes its current limitations. These 3D data are combined with decades-long regular Landsat and Sentinel-2 imagery derived shorelines. These observations reveal that the sand spit is stretching, narrowing at its Northern part while it is lengthening downdrift Southward, independently from climatological changes in the wave regime. A parametric model based on a stochastic cyclic sand spit behaviour allows for predicting the next northern opening of a breach and the urban erosion at Saint Louis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Garlan, T.; Almar, R.; Gauduin, H.; Gosselin, M.; Morio, O., and Labarthe, C., 2020. 3D variability of sediment granulometry in two tropical environments: Nha Trang (Vietnam) and Saint-Louis (Sénégal). In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 495–499. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. The sediment variability of two tropical beaches was studied in order to provide the input data of the COASTVAR project's morphodynamic models. The longshore, cross-shore and vertical sediment organization of the first decimeters seems important to take into account in modeling. In particular, the presence of coarser underlying sediments, very frequently observed at all latitudes, may be at the origin of the slope of the beach. And these coarser sediments can also cause significant changes in sedimentary dynamics, when the most energetic events come to set them in motion. But the 3D characterization of beach sediments is not easy and the methods to achieve it are presented here. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Bergsma, E.W.J.; Sadio, M.; Sakho, I.; Almar, R.; Garlan, T.; Gosselin, M., and Gauduin, H., 2020. Sand-spit evolution and inlet dynamics derived from space-borne optical imagery: Is the Senegal-river inlet closing? In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 372-376. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. With the majority of the world' population living in urbanised coastal zones, regional-scale coastal monitoring is a paramount tool to assess the risk exposure of local areas. At St. Louis, Senegal the coast experienced a recent acceleration in coastal erosion. Additionally, the sand-spit South of St. Louis is highly dynamic with one of the largest migration rates worldwide. In this study we showcase the use of satellite imagery to assess the morphological change of the St. Louis inlet position over more than 3 decades. The Senegal river inlet was artificially opened in 2003 Northward of its natural position. The effect of this opening is measured through local shoreline erosion and use of satellite data to predict the next closure of the Senegal-river inlet. Since the artificial breach coastal erosion at the fishmarket of St. Louis was measured, while the sand-spit initially accreted. Southerly sand-spit migration rates that varied from 475 m per year (before an artificial breach in 2003) to 590 m per year after the breach. With these migration rates and assuming limited changes in, for example, river run-off and wave environment, the inlet will close again around 2050 and 2055. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]