1. Nonlinear wave evolution with data-driven breaking
- Author
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Eeltink, D., Branger, H., Luneau, C., He, Y., Chabchoub, A., Kasparian, J., van den Bremer, T. S., Sapsis, T. P., Eeltink, D., Branger, H., Luneau, C., He, Y., Chabchoub, A., Kasparian, J., van den Bremer, T. S., and Sapsis, T. P.
- Abstract
Wave breaking is the main mechanism that dissipates energy input into ocean waves by wind and transferred across the spectrum by nonlinearity. It determines the properties of a sea state and plays a crucial role in ocean-atmosphere interaction, ocean pollution, and rogue waves. Owing to its turbulent nature, wave breaking remains too computationally demanding to solve using direct numerical simulations except in simple, short-duration circumstances. To overcome this challenge, we present a blended machine learning framework in which a physics-based nonlinear evolution model for deep-water, non-breaking waves and a recurrent neural network are combined to predict the evolution of breaking waves. We use wave tank measurements rather than simulations to provide training data and use a long short-term memory neural network to apply a finite-domain correction to the evolution model. Our blended machine learning framework gives excellent predictions of breaking and its effects on wave evolution, including for external data.
- Published
- 2024