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L’industrie lyonnaise de la soie a laissé des formes patrimoniales très diverses dont quatre exemples sont décrits dans cet article pour illustrer les difficultés inhérentes à leur conservation. L’atelier Mattelon, dernier atelier familial de tisseur de soie, illustre bien les innombrables exemples d’ateliers à domicile que la ville a comptés au xixe siècle. Il a été classé monument historique en 1996. Les métiers à tisser de l’ancienne école municipale de tissage ont connu un sort moins enviable. Seize métiers furent protégés monuments historiques en 1996, mais seuls les quatre métiers classés ont été sauvegardés. Les douze métiers inscrits ont été détruits par inadvertance… Le musée des Tissus de Lyon possède une rare collection de plaques émaillées provenant des dessiccateurs « Talabot-Persoz-Rogeat ». Mis au point par l’industriel Rogeat en 1853, ces dessiccateurs permettaient de limiter la fraude en empêchant d’ajouter de l’eau à la soie pour en augmenter le poids. Enfin, une magnanerie a été installée dans les années 1970 à La Mulatière, près de Lyon. Devenue l’Unité nationale séricicole, elle était un véritable conservatoire, aussi bien pour les différentes variétés de mûriers que pour celles des vers à soie. En 2009, Lyon 1 (INRA) a fermé cette unité. Les collections concernant les vers à soie ont été pour certaines confiées à d’autres organismes similaires en Italie et au Japon, tandis que des solutions essaient d’émerger à Lyon pour préserver certaines parties du conservatoire des mûriers. The Lyon silk industry has left a broad selection of heritage. This article will take a look at a selection of four examples in order to illustrate the inherent difficulties in heritage conservation. The Mattelon workshop, the last family-run silk weaving business in Lyon, characteristic of the innumerable domestic workshops in the city during the nineteenth century, was given statutory protection as a historic monument in 1996. The silk-weaving looms from the former municipal weaving school did not have such a happy fate. Sixteen of them were indeed protected as historic monuments in 1996 but only four of these, protected at the higher level as ‘classified’ monuments, survive today; the remaining twelve were only given the lower level of protection as ‘inscribed’ monuments, and they were subsequently destroyed, by mistake. The Lyon textile museum, the Musée des Tissus, holds a rare collection of enamelled plates coming from the ‘Talabot-Persoz-Rogeat’ driers, designed by the industrialist, Rogeat, in 1853. His driers limited fraud by avoiding the addition of water to silk in order to increase its weight artificially. Finally, a ‘magnanerie’, an installation for silk-worm breeding, was created during the 1970s at La Mulatière, a suburb near Lyon. This became the Unité nationale séricicole, the national sericicultural establishment, with an authentic conservatory of mulberry trees and different varieties of silkworms. But in 2009, this department was closed down by the University of Lyon 1 (Institut national de Recherche agronomique, INRA). Its silk-related holdings were transferred to similar organisations in Italy and in Japan, whilst solutions are still being looked for in the Lyon region for the preservation of a part, at least, of its mulberry collection.

The Benaki Museum comprises a fine collection of Late Antique textiles, covering a period that extends roughly from the 3rd to the 10th Century AD. The focus of this paper is set on a virtually complete child’s tunic with hood, which stands out for a number of reasons: 1. the examination of its subject matter and workmanship gives an impressive idea of the textile production in Egypt; 2. the stylistic analysis attests to the tenacity of the classical Hellenic tradition in the early Byzantine era. A full description of the garment is presented here, the weaving procedure and the type of loom used. For the scope of this study and in order to place the results in a broader historical and comparative context, the content of papyri from the Hellenistic–Roman Period was carefully examined. &nbsp

In this paper, we focused on a real-life, large-scale problem of loom scheduling, which has 1100 independent jobs and 133 unrelated parallel machines with machine eligibility constraint. The authors focused on the scheduling problems that includes sequence-dependent setup times and the job splitting property to minimize the makespan. An adapted version of hybrid genetic algorithm in this study, incorporated a machine eligibility constraint. Adding this constraint complicated the problem, but doing so is compulsory to solve a real-life problem. To simplify the problem, we used the typesetting structure of the weaving industry. Utilizing random key numbers provided feasible chromosomes for each generation. Flexible chromosome structures and local search adaptation into the genetic algorithm were some of the other factors that allowed us to improve the makespan by up to 14% in this application.

The objective of this research work is to use pineapple leaves in stubble to make tissues; thus avoiding the inadequate management of final disposal of agricultural residues of pineapple production. The leaves of the pineapple plants that remain in the agricultural fields after the harvest of the fruit, we can give them other uses, since many times they are incinerated, generating polluting gases. The methodology consisted in leaving only the fibers of the leaf removing the non-fibrous substances by empirical methods in manual form, the drying was carried out and later the knitting was done with sticks of pineapple leaves of three varieties: Golden, Hawaiana and variety. As a procedure, the pineapple leaves fibers were extracted manually and the knitting was done with hand-made instruments. As results, it was obtained that the tissue of the pineapple leaf residue of the Hawaiana variety presents better quality with an average tensile strength of 6.041 MPa and elongation of 312.4%, this means that the sample has been stretched 3 times its initial length, this shows that the Hawaiian variety is more resistant than the Golden variety with tractive force of 5,560 MPa and average elongation 222.9% the average variety samba of tensile force 4,051 MPa and Elongation average 270,9%. According to its resistance of the tissues it can be classified that the fabric of the Hawaiian variety according to the characteristics found can be of use of bags and purses., El presente trabajo de investigación tiene como objetivo aprovechar hojas de piña en rastrojos para elaborar tejidos; maximizando así, la disposición final de residuos agrícolas de la producción de piña. Las hojas de plantas de piña que quedan en los campos agrícolas después de la cosecha del fruto, podemos darles otros usos, dado que muchas veces se los incinera, generando gases contaminantes. La metodología consistió en dejar solamente las fibras de la hoja quitándole las sustancias no fibrosas mediante métodos empíricos en forma manual, se realizó el secado y posteriormente se realizó el tejido de punto con palillos de hojas de piña de tres variedades: Golden, Hawaiana y la variedad Samba. Como procedimiento se extrajo las fibras de hojas de piña de forma manual y se realizó el tejido de punto con instrumentos artesanales. Como resultados se obtuvo que el tejido del residuo de hoja de piña de la variedad Hawaiana, presenta mejor calidad con una fuerza de tracción promedio de 6,041 MPa y elongación de 312,4 %, lo que significa que la muestra ha sido estirada 3 veces su longitud inicial, ello demuestra que la variedad de hawaiana es más resistente que la variedad de Golden con fuerza de tracción de 5,560 MPa y elongación promedio 222,9 %; la variedad samba con promedio de fuerza de tracción 4,051 MPa y Elongación promedio 270,9 %. De acuerdo a su resistencia de los tejidos se puede clasificar que el tejido de la variedad de hawaiana de acuerdo a las características encontradas puede ser de uso de bolsas y carteras.

In this study, warp elongations in a satin fabric were detected using image processing to reduce yarn breakage during weaving. It was aimed to increase the productivity of the weaving looms. In this work, a high sensitive camera was used for the analyses. The warp elongation was analysed and determined statistically using MATLAB software. The warp elongations in satin woven fabric samples were examined and detected on a working loom using a high sensitivity camera. Additionally the strains for each warp yarn were measured and recorded. Different elongations for warp ends were observed, attributed to the differences in mechanism settings. The difference in the elongation of the warp yarns causes warp yarn breakages, which decrease productivity during weaving. This warp breaking ratio could be reduced by making necessary adjustments to the shedding mechanism on the loom. © 2016, Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres. All rights reserved.

In this paper, the effect of weaving machine settings on weavability limits of air-jet looms was investigated by weaving plain weave fabrics with polyester warp and weft yarns. For this purpose, firstly, weavability limits were determined for 16.7 tex weft by setting back-rest height, total warp tension, frontshed angle and shed closing time at different levels without changing the properties of warp. For each machine setting, weft density was increased gradually until reaching the weavable limit. During the experiments, weaving continuity, unfavorable effects interrupting this continuity, negative changes on fabric and yarns were observed. In the mean time, the warp yarn tension and cloth-fell distance were measured. Later, the weaving with 7.8 and 33.3 tex wefts was carried out at the settings required to produce a weave at the maximum weft density for 16.7 tex weft. The maximum weavable weft densities were determined for these two weft yarns. Finally, the obtained maximum weft densities and cover factors with three different weft yarns were compared with the results obtained from theoretical equations of Pierce, Love and Brierley. It was found that the warp tension had the most significant effect on the weavability limits. Changing shed adjustment from the zero level of the back rest to higher values, increased the weavability limit slightly, but increasing the shed asymmetry further did not have a significant effect on the weavability limit. The shed closing time had some effect on the limit. But this was less than the effect of the warp tension. Changing the front shed angle did not have any effect on weavability limits. © 2011, SAGE Publications. All rights reserved.

CAPES A indústria têxtil gera grande volume de efluente de elevada carga orgânica e coloração pela presença de corantes residuais. Devido às implicações ambientais causadas se têm buscado formas de remover esses compostos dos efluentes. O processo de adsorção é considerado eficiente na remoção de corantes dos efluentes e materiais de baixo custo tais como resíduos agroindustriais (e.g. bagaço de cana-de-açúcar) e industriais (e.g. resíduo de algodão dos teares ou pó de varredura – PV) normalmente modificados quimicamente se mostram como uma alternativa de tratamento. Foram inseridos grupamentos amino quaternário (DEAE+) e metil carboxílico (CM-) na estrutura celulósica do PV com o objetivo de gerar uma capacidade de troca nesta matriz inicialmente inerte e consolidar a capacidade de sequestro de corantes têxteis. As matrizes iônicas obtidas foram avaliadas em relação: pH do ponto de carga zero (pHpcz), eficiência da retenção de corantes têxteis em diferentes condições experimentais (e.g. concentração inicial, temperatura, tempo de contato) a fim de determinar os parâmetros cinéticos e termodinâmicos do processo de adsorção em batelada, biodegradabilidade das matrizes saturadas com corante, regeneração das matrizes e avaliação em amostras de efluente têxtil real. Foi observada alteração do pHpcz das matrizes CM--PV (6,07) e DEAE+-PV (9,66) em comparação ao material nativo (6,46), comprovando alteração na carga superficial total. As matrizes se mostraram eficientes para a remoção dos corantes têxteis avaliados nas condições experimentais. Os dados cinéticos do processo de adsorção se ajustaram melhor ao modelo de pseudosegunda ordem, sendo que o modelo de difusão intrapartícula sugere um processo multi-etapas. O tempo necessário para o sistema atingir o equilíbrio variou conforme a concentração inicial da solução de corante, sendo mais rápido em soluções mais diluídas. O modelo de isoterma de Langmuir se ajustou melhor aos dados experimentais. A capacidade máxima de adsorção variou de forma distinta para cada corante, estando relacionada à interação adsorvente/adsorvato e a estrutura química do corante. Poucos corantes obtiveram uma variação linear da constante de equilibro (ka) em função do inverso da temperatura e puderam ter seu comportamento termodinâmico avaliado. Destes, os corantes BR18:1 e AzL apresentaram características de um processo de adsorção endotérmico (ΔH° positivo), já o VmL de processo exotérmico (ΔH° negativo). Os valores de ΔG° sugerem que a adsorção ocorre de forma espontânea, exceto para o corante BY28, e os valores de ΔH° indicam que a adsorção se dá pelo processo de quimiossorção. Houve redução de 31 a 51% da biodegradabilidade das matrizes carregadas com os corantes. O ensaio de regeneração indicou que as matrizes podem ser reutilizadas pelo menos até cinco vezes sem perda de desempenho. A matriz DEAE+-PV mostrou-se eficiente para a remoção de coloração presente em efluente têxtil, atingindo uma redução da área espectral UV-Visível de até 93 % (proporção de 15 g da matriz por litro de efluente). A gama de matéria colorida removida por parte das matrizes variou de 40,27 a 98,65 mg g-1 de matriz ionizada, dependendo da estrutura. The textile industry generates a large volume of high organic effluent loading whoseintense color arises from residual dyes. Due to the environmental implications caused by this category of contaminant there is a permanent search for methods to remove these compounds from industrial waste waters. The adsorption alternative is one of the most efficient ways for such a purpose of sequestering/remediation and the use of inexpensive materials such as agricultural residues (e.g., sugarcane bagasse) and cotton dust waste (CDW) from weaving in their natural or chemically modified forms. The inclusion of quaternary amino groups (DEAE+) and methylcarboxylic (CM-) in the CDW cellulosic structure generates an ion exchange capacity in these formerly inert matrix and, consequently, consolidates its ability for electrovalent adsorption of residual textile dyes. The obtained ionic matrices were evaluated for pHpcz, the retention efficiency for various textile dyes in different experimental conditions, such as initial concentration , temperature, contact time in order to determine the kinetic and thermodynamic parameters of adsorption in batch, turning comprehensive how does occur the process, then understood from the respective isotherms. It was observed a change in the pHpcz for CM--CDW (6.07) and DEAE+-CDW (9.66) as compared to the native CDW (6.46), confirming changes in the total surface charge. The ionized matrices were effective for removing all evaluated pure or residual textile dyes under various tested experimental conditions. The kinetics of the adsorption process data had best fitted to the model a pseudosecond order and an intraparticle diffusion model suggested that the process takes place in more than one step. The time required for the system to reach equilibrium varied according to the initial concentration of dye, being faster in diluted solutions. The isotherm model of Langmuir was the best fit to the experimental data. The maximum adsorption capacity varied differently for each tested dye and it is closely related to the interaction adsorbent/adsorbate and dye chemical structure. Few dyes obtained a linear variation of the balance ka constant due to the inversion of temperature and might have influence form their thermodynamic behavior. Dyes that could be evaluated such as BR 18: 1 and AzL, showed features of an endothermic adsorption process (ΔH° positive) and the dye VmL presented exothermic process characteristics (ΔH° negative). ΔG° values suggested that adsorption occurred spontaneously, except for the BY 28 dye, and the values of ΔH° indicated that adsorption occurred by a chemisorption process. The reduction of 31 to 51% in the biodegradability of the matrix after the dye adsorption means that they must go through a cleaning process before being discarded or recycled, and the regeneration test indicates that matrices can be reused up to five times without loss of performance. The DEAE+-CDW matrix was efficient for the removal of color from a real textile effluent reaching an UV-Visible spectral area decrease of 93% when applied in a proportion of 15 g ion exchanger matrix L-1 of colored wastewater, even in the case of the parallel presence of 50 g L-1 of mordant salts in the waste water. The wide range of colored matter removal by the synthesized matrices varied from 40.27 to 98.65 mg g-1 of ionized matrix, obviously depending in each particular chemical structure of the dye upon adsorption.

The ever-changing senses of consumption and fashion factor in the world have caused an ongoing increase on the demand towards hand woven textiles in recent years. Therefore, the prices of hand woven textiles, where the supply is limited, are on the rise. It is known that Buldan city, one of the centers of hand woven production in Anatolia, has a significant commercial potential in this respect. The purpose of this study is to provide an insight to the industry by comparing the profit margin of products woven in hand looms and automatic looms in textile industry in Buldan city and to raise awareness regarding the importance of production in hand looms. “Scarf”, which is the most produced textile item in Buldan, was preferred in the application study. In the study, the unit costs of the scarves woven with insect silk, floss silk, cotton and linen yarn, which are widely used in production, in hand looms and automatic looms were calculated and the profit margins to be calculated through the average sales prices were compared. At the end of the application study, it was seen that the profit margin of hand woven textiles was almost twice as high as the textiles woven in automatic looms.

In this paper synthesis works of a dobby driving mechanism had been explained. Dobby experimental set has been constructed sum of three main parts; driving mechanism, program reading and locking unit; and mechanism for elevating motion to the frames. Sythesis work of driving mechanism is completed using analytical and mathematical approaches. Studied dobby construction is a unique fourteen framed rotary dobby mechanism, design works and experimental set building processes are carried out as part of a research project in a collaborative work of Suleyman Demirel University and Pamukkale University. The most important innovation is in the motion transmission mechanism on the main shaft of the rotational dobby. Main shaft is driven by oscilational motion with dwell period. Constructional analysis and synthesis works carried out during the mechanical designing period of the dobby driving mechanism is given in detail. Proposed dobby design can be considered to be manufactured and advised to be used on most of the standart weaving machines. Bu çalışmada armür tahrik mekanizmasının sentez çalışmaları matematiksel ve analitik yaklaşımlarla açıklanmaktadır. Armür mekanizması tahrik mekanizması, program okuma ve kilit ünitesi ve çerçeve kaldırma mekanizmasından oluşmaktadır. Bu mekanizma tasarım ve deneysel model üretimi Süleyman Demirel ve Pamukkale Üniversitelerinin ortak çalışmaları sonucunda gerçekleştirilmiş olan 14 çerçeveli bir rotatif armür mekanizmasıdır. Bu mekanizmada en önemli yenilik rotatif armür ana miline hareket iletiminin yapıldığı mekanizmadadır. Ana mil beklemeli salınım hareketi ile tahrik edilmektedir. Tahrik mekanizmasının mekanik tasarımı sırasında yapılan konstrüktif analiz ve sentez çalışmaları bu yazıda detaylı olarak verilmektedir. Geliştirilmiş olan armür mekanizmasının üretimi ve standart dokuma makinalarında kullanımı mümkün olabilecektir. Türkiye Cumhuriyeti Kalkınma Bakanlığı Süleyman Demirel Üniversitesi Pamukkale Üniversitesi

Mechanism models are introduced for rotary dobby, crank & cam shedding motions. Equations governing heald frame motion are derived. Heald frame motion curves are obtained and compared with each other. It is shown that higher heald frame maximum velocity & maximum acceleration, as well as a longer approximate heald frame dwell, are generated by the rotary dobby rather than the crank or cam shedding motions, due to the intermittent nature of the rotary dobby shaft motion.

Operator machine assignment will be optimized by recording operating cycles, their frequencies and duration on different looms and with multiple machine assignments. The impact of operator machine assignment on operator occupation, production quota, and machine efficiency on operating overlap time will be analyzed. An analysis of work and time at a workplace will lead to the operator task in terms of quantity and depending on the influence of the assortment to the operator task in terms of quality as well. Points per product unit will be determined according to the systematization of workplaces, as well as quantitative and qualitative performances of the operator.

By recording working operations, their frequencies and duration on different looms and with various numbers of operated looms the number of operated machines will be optimized. The influence of the number of operated machines on the possible degree of machine stoppages, efficiency of looms as well as effiency of the operative will be analyzed. An analysis of the work and time at a place of work will lead to the operative s quantity assignment and depending on the influence of the assortment to the quality assignment as well. Points per product unit will be determined according to the systematization of places of work, as well as quantity and quality performances of the operative.