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Este artículo muestra la doble realidad del vino en España: de un lado su industrialización, con todo lo que significa poner en el mercado millones de litros de un producto que está dentro de la cadena alimentaria; de otro, el romanticismo y la honestidad con la naturaleza para sacar al mercado una bebida sin manipulación ni químicas añadidas. Para responder a esta dualidad el autor se centra en los siguientes aspectos: expone la evolución de la producción de vino en España, dando cuenta de su importancia como sector social, cultural y económico. A continuación, se pregunta si, desde los macrodatos de la poderosa industria del vino, es posible que aún tengan cabida en el mercado pequeños vinicultores, haciendo de sus bodegas negocios rentables. La respuesta es sí, y lo muestra ejemplificado en las bodegas que elaboran vinos naturales. Apoya la exposición una etnografía realizada entre varias bodegas de vignerons., This article shows the double reality of wine in Spain: on the one hand, its industrialization, with all that it means to put millions of litres of a product that is part of the food chain on the market; on the other, the romanticism and honesty with natural environment to bring to market a drink without manipulation or added chemicals. To respond to this duality, the author focuses on the following aspects: he describes the evolution of wine production in Spain, giving an account of its importance as a social, cultural and economic sector. He then wonders if, based on the macro-data of the powerful wine industry, it is possible that small winemakers still have a place in the market, making their wineries profitable businesses. The answer is yes, and it is exemplified in the wineries that produce natural wines. The exposition is supported by an ethnography carried out among several vignerons., Grupo de investigación Antropología y Filosofía (SEJ-126). Universidad de Granada. Departamento de Antropología, Geografía e Historia. Universidad de Jaén. Departamento de Filosofía II. Universidad de Granada.

PURPOSE: Spain is leader in the world ranking of surface vineyards of ecological production, with almost 27% of world production. Consumers are demanding for more information about these sustainable practices and the official certificates can be a good option to help them. In the case of natural wines, four certifications can be used in the packaging of wines to inform consumers that they are acquiring natural wine: i) certified organic winery by the EU; ii) certified biodynamic winery by Demeter; iii) certified organic (EU) and biodynamic (Demeter) winery; iv) certified by the National Institute of Origins and Quality (INAO) as ‘vin méthode nature’ (natural method wine) with two logos (natural method without added sulphites and natural method with less than 30 mg/l added sulphites). To obtain the results we have conducted a pilot study with a sample of 358 Spanish consumers of wine divided by experts and non-experts. RESULTS: The results have confirmed there is a tendency in food-related on labelling in recent years to be focused on sustainability labelling and certification. CONCLUSIONS AND IMPLICATIONS: The research has given us an idea about the importance of sustainability for consumers of natural wine and if an official certificate is a necessary question for them in the decision-making process. Thus, labelling certifications may increase the information for the consumers and could also be an opportunity to generate an increased level of credibility in natural wines, "the great unknown".

Trabajo fin de máster presentado en la Universidad de La Rioja, Máster en Tecnología, Gestión e Innovación Vitivinícola.--2021-07-23, [ES] Los vinos naturales son, a día de hoy, un segmento emergente y en rápido crecimiento del conjunto de vinos denominados tradicionalmente alternativos. Sin embargo, a diferencia de los vinos ecológicos, los vinos naturales no cuentan con una certificación específica. Este hecho y el concepto de vino natural en sí mismo, que no queda completamente definido, genera controversias y distintos puntos de vista entre los consumidores y también entre los productores de vino. Existen a nivel mundial escasas investigaciones acerca de las percepciones que tienen los consumidores sobre los vinos naturales, evaluando en muchas ocasiones qué características del producto son las que el consumidor encuentra diferenciales para adquirir un vino natural en vez de uno convencional. Por el contrario, no existen en la literatura científica publicaciones que profundicen en las percepciones de los enólogos y elaboradores profesionales del vino acerca de este nuevo segmento de vinos. El trabajo que sigue tiene el objetivo de analizar cuáles son las percepciones que los enólogos españoles tienen acerca de los vinos naturales, y qué dimensiones cognitivas explican mayoritariamente las diferencias en la percepción entre vinos naturales y convencionales. En el ensayo, que se ha llevado a cabo mediante un cuestionario de actitudes, ha participado una población de enólogos españoles (n=307), elaboradores y no elaboradores de vino natural. Se ha profundizado en las diferencias de actitud que existen entre ambos grupos de enólogos acerca del vino natural y se ha analizado si sus hábitos de vida cotidianos están relacionados con su actitud hacia el vino natural. El estudio demuestra que existen diferentes representaciones del vino natural en base al tipo de vino que elaboran los enólogos, apareciendo actitudes más positivas y otras claramente detractoras, y teniendo en ellas sus hábitos sostenibles y saludables diarios cierta influencia. Las conclusiones servirán para, por un lado, conocer las diferentes actitudes que los enólogos españoles tienen hacia los vinos naturales, y por otro, conocer en qué aspectos pueden los investigadores seguir trabajando para mejorar este segmento de vinos que está en actual expansión., [EN] Nowadays, natural wines are an emerging and rapidly growing segment of the group of wines traditionally called “alternative”. However, unlike organic wines, natural wines do not have a specific certification. This fact and the concept of natural wine itself, which is not completely defined, causes controversies and different points of view among consumers and also among wine producers. There are very few publications about the perceptions that consumers have about natural wines, usually researching what product characteristics are those that the consumer finds differential to acquire a natural wine instead of a conventional one. On the contrary, there are no publications in the scientific literature that go deeper into the perceptions of professional winemakers about this new segment of wines. The work that 8 follows has the objective of analyzing what are the perceptions that Spanish winemakers have about natural wines, and what cognitive dimensions mainly explain the difference of the perceptions between conventional and natural wines. A population of Spanish winemakers (n = 307), producers and non-producers of natural wine, has participated in the test, which was carried out through an attitude questionnaire. It will deep into the differences that exist in the social representation of both groups about natural wine and it will analyze whether their daily life habits are related to their attitude towards natural wines. The study shows that there are different representations of natural wine based on the type of wine made by winemakers, with more positive attitudes appearing and others clearly detrimental, and their sustainable and healthy daily habits have a certain influence on them. The conclusions will be useful for, on the one hand, know the different social representations that Spanish winemakers make of natural wines, and on the other, be conscious of what aspects researchers can continue working to improve this segment of wines that is currently expanding.

Zusammenfassung In den letzten Jahren haben sich am Markt Weine hervorgetan, welche das Image der Natürlichkeit und Nachhaltigkeit verkörpern wollen. Aufgrund einer bis dato fehlenden Begriffsdefinition dieser sogenannten Natural Wines kann sich jeder Winzer als Produzent natürlicher Weine bezeichnen. Das Hauptziel dieser Studie ist es, herauszufinden, wie natürlich verschiedene Produkteigenschaften von Natural-Wines-Konsumenten eingestuft werden und wie hoch die Zahlungsbereitschaft für zusätzliche Natürlichkeitsaspekte ist. Dazu finden die traditionelle Conjoint-Analyse sowie das Preispremiumverfahren der Markenbewertung Anwendung. Die Ergebnisse zeigen, dass die biodynamische Anbauweise und Weine ohne Schwefelzusatz von den Teilnehmern als die natürlichsten Produktattribute wahrgenommen werden. Des Weiteren ist die Mehrpreisbereitschaft der befragten Konsumenten bei Weinen aus biodynamischem Anbau am höchsten.

Wine production and consumption in Italy have a long tradition strongly linked to conventional products. Because of these market dynamics, the Italian wine industry has strongly increased the production of organic wines, as well as that of biodynamic and natural wines. Based on a qualitative survey of 210 wine consumers, this study explores the motivations which move the interests of consumers for the consumption of natural wine. The aim of the study is to verify if and how sustainability inspires demand. Considering the scarcity of studies on “natural wines” this research aims to provide a cognitive framework capable of giving a social representation of natural wine from the consumers’ side, although not reaching a generalizable result.

Nowadays the consumption of natural wines has been increased. In parallel with the higher demand, the study of the parameters of natural wines has also developed. The amines being produced during the decarboxylization procedure of amino acids could be one of the most important features of natural wines. The objective of this study was to measure the biogenic amine content of natural wines from 2000 and 2001. We have determined that the biogenic amine content of natural wines is not different from the biogenic amine composition of normal wines. There was not any considerable difference between the years. In complience with the average tendency, red wines contain higher histamine-, tiramine- and serotonin values than white wines.