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The paper will present some aspects of reactive and vat dyes application, in processes of dyeing and printing, on inherently fire-resistant materials. The overall research is part of the project of development of Inherently Flame Retardant Fabric for Dual Use, funded by the European Union from the European Regional Development Fund, and in which the University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology is a partner to Croatian producer of protective and functional textile, Cateks d.d. Various combinations of fibres were applied, and thus the possibilities of applying dyes on such fabrics were investigated. In order to achieve optimal levels of flame resistance, various combinations of inherently flame resistant fibers with different proportions have been designed and tested. Considering the relatively high proportion of aramid fibers in such mixtures, the application of dyes and the achievement of coloured effects by conventional dyeing and printing procedures is highly complex. This paper will present the results of the application of reactive dyes using the printing method and the vat dyes in dyeing exhaustion process. The vat dyeing was performed on three types of fabrics differing in variations and proportion of inherently flame resistant fibres. After the dyeing the microscopic imaging was performed by DinoLite AM701. The limited flame spread, the fastness to wet and dry rubbing, as well as lightfastness was tested. The results showed that the colour characteristics will depend on the proportion of the cellulose component, considering that the vat dyes bind to the cellulose fibers. In addition to the cellulose component, they can also bind to the PA component and regenerated cellulose components. Microscopic images of the fabrics show the components in the structure of the fabric composition that were bound by the dye and those that were not (these are mainly aramid components). Surface flammability test results show optimal inherent flame resistance of the tested fabrics. The results of the fastness test confirm optimal fastness to dry and wet friction, while the fastness to light is weaker and it can be said that it is not completely satisfactory. As for the reactive dyes printing, the research was also conducted on three fabrics differ in composition of warp and weft yarns. Flame retardant properties of fabrics before printing, determined by measuring LOI-Limiting Oxygen Index were measured. Also colour characteristics were measured using a remission spectrophotometry. Wash fastness testing was performed, and also microscopic imaging of the printed sample was performed using DinoLite AM7013. The analysis of K/S values of printed samples were performed, while the wash fastness results are presented through the total color difference values, dE, calculated according to the CIE76 system. For printed samples, also lightfastness was tested.

The advantages of using natural dyes are reflected in the quality of textiles. Characteristic of natural dyes is that they help protect against ultraviolet radiation (increased UPF value), inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacteria, generally have a beneficial effect, are environmentally friendly and have special aesthetic properties. By argon plasma pretreatment of textile material it is possible to obtain the desired properties since the modifications are made only on the surface of the fiber/material without changing its basic properties. In this study, the synergistic effect of the ecological pretreatment of textiles with argon plasma and natural dyes is investigated. Their effectiveness is tested by evaluating the protective properties against ultraviolet radiation of treated and untreated woolen fabrics according to the standard AS/NZS 4399:1996 using a UV/VIS spectrophotometer. The woolen fabrics tested are treated with a natural dye derived from pomegranate bark after being pretreated with a low-pressure argon plasma under defined conditions. To determine the effect of pretreatment on the degree of degradation of the natural dye, the woolen fabrics were dyed without plasma pretreatment and without salt, which plays the role of mordant in the dyeing process. The test results show that the woolen fabrics pretreated with argon plasma and dyed with a natural dye from pomegranate bark without the addition of salts as mordant has the highest UPF.

The influence of cationization during mercerization and pre-mordanting to the dyeing of cotton fabric with natural dye from Dactylopius coccus was researched in this paper. The bleached cotton fabric as well as cationized with Rewin OS were pre-mordanted using iron(II) sulfate heptahydrate (FeSO4·7H2O). For the characterization of surface changes after cationization and pre-mordanting, electrokinetic analysis on SurPASS electrokinetic analyzer was performed. Afterwards, fabrics were dyed with natural cochineal dye with and without the addition of an electrolyte, NaCl. For the purpose of determination of dye exhaustion, the analysis of dye solution was performed on the UV/VIS spectrophotometer Cary 50 Solascreen. Spectrophotometric analysis of the samples through phases of modification of cotton fabric was performed using Datacolor 850 spectrophotometer, measuring spectral characteristics from which was determined whiteness degree, color parameters, K/S and color fastness dyed fabric. Comparing cationized and non-cationized cotton fabrics, cationized samples showed better absorption abilities and color fastness. Using electrolyte at untreated cotton fabric improved the process of dye absorption. However, when cationized, usage of electrolyte is not necessary, what makes this process more environmentally friendly. Additionally, high exhaustion of natural dyes also extends the color palette.

The modern textile industry is facing the challenges of simultaneously integrating economic, political and social influences, culture, society, environment, environmentally friendly technologies and sustainable materials. The textile industry, despite its undeniable importance, is one of the anthropogenic activities that uses large amounts of dyes and pigments including enormous consumption of (drinking) water, fuels and chemicals, which often pollutes surface water bodies. The presence of different types of dyes and pigments used in finishing processes such as dyeing and printing can cause significant changes in the ecosystem. Nowadays, thanks to increased public awareness of environmental safety and health care, benign, non-toxic and sustainable products from biological resources are becoming increasingly popular in various spheres of life. Sustainability triad contains environmental sustainability, economic sustainability, and social sustainability ; it is frequently characterized as “addressing the necessities of today without trading off the ability of future eras to meet their individual prerequisites”. This paper reviews the ecological, economic and social aspects of textile dyes with an emphasis on sustainability. Sustainability indicators from the economic aspect consist of economic performance, indirect economic impacts and the world market. Indicators of industrial sustainability in the context of ecology can be seen from the aspect of resource use, pollution caused and human behavior activities. Social indicators of the sustainability of natural dyes in the textile industry relate to adequate working conditions, equal opportunities, consumer health and safety, and human rights. In the context of economics, this article compares natural and synthetic dyes, in the context of environmental aspects enormous environmental pollutants and wastewater problems are discussed, and social aspects include issues related to human rights, adequate working conditions and (illegal) child labour in industries.

Nowadays, more and more emphasis is being placed on ecology and economy, new harmless processes are being sought in all areas. The focus is on natural dyes as an environmentally friendly and economical product. The process of textile dyeing with natural dyes usually requires large amounts of dyes, and therefore biowaste from other industries, as a source of natural dyes, is used. Before the dyeing process, the fabric was pre- treated with mordant, iron (II) sulphate heptahydrate, which was followed by the textile dyeing process. Dyed samples were washed with different types of detergents. The effects were monitored through the colour fastness of the washed polyester fabrics in the detergent and in comparison with water. The results showed that polyester fabrics treated with iron (II) sulphate heptahydrate had better washfastness, and detergent containing optical brighteners significantly affecting the overall colourfastness.

Numerous methods for dyes removal from wastewaters are used, and one of those that has proven to be an efficient and cost-effective is adsorption. In this work, static and dynamic methods of the adsorption of reactive dye on powdered activated carbon were compared. For this purpose, isothermal adsorption process of Everzol Black B dye of concentration c0=300 mg dm3 on 0.1 g of activated carbon at a temperature of 45 (±1) oC was carried out in different time periods (from 15 minutes to 16 hours, i.e. until the equilibrium was reached) in two different ways: without shaking (static method) and at a shaking speed of 100 rpm (dynamic method). The results of this study showed that percentage of adsorbed dye in all applied times was approximately equal for both methods. In order to investigate the influence of dynamic parameters on the adsorption, the results of this work were compared with those which were performed under the same experimental conditions (dye concentration, adsorbent mass and temperature), but at the shaking speed of 250 rpm. For both methods applied in this work, kinetic study revealed that adsorption is kinetically controlled by the pseudo-second order kinetic model.

The paper investigates the visual color change that occurs on a sample screen-printed with printing paste of identical composition containing pigment CHT Colormatch 740 Schwarz in the mass of 30 g of pigment per 100 g of total printing paste mass. After applying the same printing paste on textile substrate coloured in black and magenta hues, a visual difference in color appearance occurred between the samples. While on a magenta background the print looks completely black, on a black background the visual appearance of the color is much lighter. Screen-printing was carried out for the purpose of patterning the materials for the designer collection of backpacks, and a similar effect was achieved when applying printing pastes in magenta hue. In addition to visual analysis, color objectification was performed on the samples based on spectrophotometric measurement and presentation of results according to the CIELAB evaluation system and through the values of color depth K/S. Microscopic imaging of the surface was performed to assess surface coverage and layer uniformity, and in the process of visual analysis, not only the impact of the substrate was assessed, but also of the surrounding colors (contours).

In the modern times of excessive production and consumption of resources, meaning (textile) products, noting that the textile industry is one of the biggest polluter of the environment, the printing industry attaches great importance to environmental protection and eco-design. The need for speed in the production of textile (and other) products surely has certain consequences for the economy, ecology and society, as well as for human health, given the harmful by-products that inevitably arise from the textile industry. In the field of textile printing technology, in order to adapt the production method to certain requirements, digital printing is considered one of the most environmentally friendly techniques due to low cost, high precision and speed and low consumption of water, energy and chemicals. Nevertheless, digital printing also has certain advantages and disadvantages over traditional techniques. For example, compared to screen printing, more dye, energy and water consuming, digital printing needs fabric pretreatment, which in turn requires raw materials and energy and causes environmental impacts. Digital printing is better for small batches also because of the flexibility of the system and fewer amounts of production waste etc. In addition to the chosen technique, in the context of economy, the choice of fabric type for printing is of great importance. By choosing an environmentally friendly base material, environmental impacts of printed products can be reduced. This paper reviews digital printing technology in the context of environmental sustainability, with an emphasis on analyzing its advantages and disadvantages over traditional printing techniques. The paper analyzes the ecological aspects of the types of pretreatments and dyes, ie the optimal choice of the same with the aim of advancing the technique of digital printing and high quality ecological textiles production.

In this paper, the effectiveness of Neem (Azadirachta indica) leaves as an natural bioactive agent for textile was investigated. Dyeing of cellulose knitwears were carried out by exhaustion from the bath with optimal concentration of natural coloured extract from the Neem leaves, with and without mordant. Before dyeing, cellulose samples were pretreated with argon and oxygen low-pressure cold plasma under defined conditions. The obtained results were analysed by instrumental methods of surface analysis, colorimetric parameters analysis and microbiological testing against specified bacteria.

The use of natural dyes derived from natural plant sources for textiles dyeing has increased in recent years as consumers increasingly desire to replace synthetic chemicals with natural compounds. A natural dye from Spanish broom was produced by aqueous extraction. Wool and cotton fabrics were dyed in acidic medium. The electrokinetic properties of the dyed textiles were analysed as well as laundering durability and the colour fastness. The results showed that 5 washing cycles had no effect on the colour intensity of the dyed wool fabrics, suggesting that the pigments extracted from the flowers of Spanish broom have a high potential as a source of natural dyes, for protein rather than cellulosic fibres.

Aromatic and heteroaromatic azo compounds represent the most numerous and diverse group of synthetic dyes, used not only as textile dyes, but also in many other different industry fields: for dyeing various substrates, biological-medical research, in the field of nonlinear optics and optical data storage. Aromatic diazo components, in the synthesis of azo dyes, are increasingly being replaced by heteroaromatic diazo components because the prepared heterocyclic azo dyes show better dyeing properties such as color tone and brightness, and better light fastness compared to the corresponding carbocyclic azo dyes. In this work, an efficient method for the synthesis of a small library of 6-azo-substituted benzothiazole molecules by diazotization reactions of three 6- amino-substituted benzothiazole derivatives and by copulation of the corresponding diazonium salts to two N, N-disubstituted aniline derivatives have been presented. The obtained dyes have been tested as disperse dyes for polyester (PES) and polyamide (PA) textile material. All six tested dyes have good application properties for dyeing PA textile materials, while dyes 4-6 proved to be good for PES. In order to determinate biological activity of presented new azo dyes in vitro antiproliferative and antibacterial evaluations of dyes 1-6 were performed and the results have been presented.

Coated textiles are mostly used in clothing, medicine and transport. Advantages of polyurethane coatings are greater resistance to abrasion and splitting, increased s trength and durability. The properties of such materials can be significantly affected by pigment dispersion. Polyurethane- coated knitted fabrics were of interest because they exhibit positive mechanical and thermal properties, and yet they are little studied. Polyurethane coating was prepared in pastes in yellow, blue and dark blue hue, which is used to obtain polyurethane coatings. The results are presented as differences in CIEL*a*b* colour parameters and total colour difference. After exposure to the natural weathering, it is noticed that in the summer season the materials in dark blue hues resist best, while in winter conditions the smallest difference in colour is obtained for yellow materials. In addition, a good correlation of knitted substrate mass, thickness and yarn count with colour fading occurred.

Textile wastewater discharged after the textile dyeing and finishing processes has become a concern for the environment. Textile industry uses various types of synthetic, mostly reactive dyes, and discharges enormous amounts of highly coloured waters. An adsorption process, as sustainable textile wastewater treatment method, is one of the most commonly used and effective method for removal of dyes from coloured water. This paper deals with isothermal adsorption of reactive dye Everzol Black B on commercial powdered activated carbon. Batch mode adsorption study was carried out at three different temperatures and different periods until equilibrium was reached. The residual liquid-phase dye concentration, amount of adsorbate adsorbed, and percentage of adsorbed dye were calculated after adsorption process. In order to investigate the mechanism of dye adsorption experimental data were analysed by two kinetic models. Based on the values of dye concentrations at equilibrium, thermodynamic parameters of adsorption were also determined.

Color is particularly associated with electromagnetic radiation of a specific wavelength range visible to the human eye. Color perception depends on vision, light, and individual interpretation, and understanding color involves physics, physiology, and psychology. This paper, analyzes the interaction between color perception and light, i.e., the emission of light energy. The light spectrum consists of many different wavelengths of energy produced by a light source. There are some significant differences between natural daylight and artificial light. Intensity and spectrum are most important here. The entire light spectrum is found only in daylight. Visible light is a portion of the spectrum from 380 nm to 780 nm. The spectral distribution of the light spectrum produced by a lamp depends on the brightness and significantly influences human color perception. The paper explains how the relative intensities of energy emission at each wavelength affect color perception. This paper can contribute to luminaire selection, i.e., human perception of color both outdoors and indoors. Human centric lighting expresses the positive effect of light and lighting on human health, well-being and performance, and thus has both short and long term benefits. The "ideal" lighting spectrum depends on the type of lighting and the desired effect on people, nature and objects.

The textile industry is one of major industries that consume large amounts of water. Water is used for textile washing and the process of textile finishing. In addition, it is also one of the largest polluters of the environment, resulting in a high volume of wastewater. The main pollutants in textile wastewater are dyes, organic compounds that form physical or chemical bonds with textiles. Dye-house wastewater purification methods can be physical, chemical, physico- chemical, and/or biological treatment methods. The paper presents a review of the above problems of wastewater from the textile industry and the results achieved in their solution. This includes the analysis of textile dyes, the optimization of the dyeing process, the analysis of water and the selection of effective purification methods.

The application of plant transfer printing on cotton and silk was investigated. The influence of pH and choice and concentration of mordants on the visual effect and on the colourfastness to washing and light was examined. The obtained colorations were evaluated spectrophotometrically (dE76) obtained by comparing the samples before and after washing and illumination. Plant transfer was carried out with the leaves of the Rosa Canina. Sodium carbonate, acetic acid and oxalic acid were chosen as pH regulators, and potassium aluminium sulphate dodecahydrate, copper(II) sulphate pentahydrate and iron(II) sulphate heptahydrate was used as mordants (metal salts). From the aspect of aesthetics and design, it is necessary to optimize the process parameters in order to achieve optimal fastness of colouration, in that way the usable properties are also ensured. The paper also presents the creative aspect of the research and shows the process of creating an interior object of original aesthetics.

In this work, the influence of ionic strength of the solution on the adsorption of Reactive Black 5 dye on activated carbon was investigated. For this purpose, Reactive Black 5 dye solutions of concentration c0 = 500 mg dm3 with addition of 0.1 mole and 1.0 mole of sodium chloride was prepared. Sodium chloride is usually found in the bath for textile materials dyeing with reactive dyes. Isothermal adsorption was performed at 45 (±1) oC on 0.1 g of activated carbon in periods from 15 minutes to 16 hours (when equilibrium was reached). The obtained results were compared with an adsorption process carried out under the same experimental conditions, but without the addition of sodium chloride. It was shown that without the addition of salt 75 % of dye was adsorbed after 16 hours, while with addition of 0.1 mole and 1.0 mole of sodium chloride approximately the same percentage of dye was adsorbed after 30 minutes and less than 15 minutes, respectively. Thus, it was found that ionic strength of the solution significantly influences the adsorption process. The adsorption of both systems is kinetically controlled by the pseudo-second order kinetic model, while calculated pseudo-second order rate constant values further confirmed the obtained results.

The paper presents the application of natural dyes pant origin in the realization of modern solar cells. A dye sensitized solar cell (DSSC or Grätzel cell) is a low-cost solar cell belonging to the group of thin film solar cells. It is based on a semiconductor formed between a photo- sensitized anode and an electrolyte, a photoelectrochemical system. The DSSC has a number of attractive features: it is simple to make using conventional roll-printing techniques, is semi- flexible and semi-transparent which offers a variety of uses not applicable to glass-based systems, and most of the materials used are low- cost. Commercial applications, which were held up due to chemical stability problems, had been forecast in the European Union Photovoltaic Roadmap to significantly contribute to renewable electricity generation by 2020. Choice of natural dye for the sensitizer layer is an important factor to the performance of DSSC. Natural dyes offers a suitable alternative to high cost inorganic based DSSCs because of their simple production technique, affordable cost, complete biodegradation, easy availability, purity grade, environmental friendly, high reduction of noble metal, and chemical synthesis cost. The paper explains the principle of selective light adsorption of natural plant dyes, the influence of the dye molecule structure (chromophore) on the wavelength range of adsorption and light emission and the stability of the dye molecule to various external influences. This interdisciplinary approach can contribute to addressing some of the shortcomings of the DSSC.

Although many of the dyes used in dyeing process are not toxic, dyed effluents have harmful and negative aesthetic and biological effect on water systems, and therefore dyes should be removed from wastewaters. This paper deals with isothermal adsorption of Reactive Black 5 dye on commercial activated carbon. Batch adsorption study was carried out in different periods, from 30 minutes to 16 hours, when equilibrium was reached. Results show exponential lowering of dye concentration after adsorption, from 500 mg dm−3 to 118 mg dm−3 at equilibrium. In order to investigate the mechanism of adsorption kinetic studies have been performed, and pseudo-second order kinetic model better describes adsorption process of this system. The aim of this work was also to compare influence of initial dye concentration on the adsorption process ; percentage of adsorbed dye at equilibrium for initial dye concentration c0 = 300 mg dm−3 is for 18 % bigger than that of c0 = 500 mg dm−3.

Iako mnoga bojila koja se koriste u procesu bojadisanja tekstila nisu toksična, obojene otpadne vode imaju štetan i negativan estetski i biološki učinak na vodene sustave, pa se zbog toga bojila trebaju ukloniti iz otpadnih voda. U ovom radu provedena je izotermna adsorpcija bojila Reactive Black 5 na komercijalnom aktivnom ugljenu. Adsorpcija je provedena šaržnim postup-kom u vremenskom razdoblju od 30 minuta do 16 sati, kada je postignuta ravnoteža. Rezultati pokazuju eksponencijalno smanjenje koncentracije bojila nakon adsorpcije, od 500 mg dm-3 do 118 mg dm-3 u stanju ravnoteže. Kako bi se istražio mehanizam kinetike adsorpcije provedene su kinetičke studije koje su pokazale da kinetički model pseudo-drugog reda bolje opisuje proces adsorpcije ovog sustava. Cilj ovog rada bio je također i usporediti utjecaj početne koncentracije bojila na proces adsorpcije; postotak adsorbiranog bojila u stanju ravnoteže za početnu koncentraciju bojila c0 = 300 mg dm-3 je za 18 % veći od onog za c0 = 500 mg dm-3.

In this paper, the possibility of using wastes and readily renewable vegetable raw materials as a source of natural dyes for silk is examined. The following plants were used: camomile flowers, onion skins, walnut and ash bark. Considering they are dyes from the group of mordant dyes, potassium aluminium sulphate dodecahydrate, copper(II) sulphate pentahydrate, iron(II) sulphate heptahydrate are used as mordant. Silk was chosen as the material because of the tradition in Croatia and the attempt to revitalize cultivation. Results of this research are presented through the analysis of CIELAB colour values based on spectrophotometric measurement. The final colour map was used to colouring silk scarves inspired by circles in grain. Bio-wastes have the attention of researchers as a source of natural textile dyes due to their ecological background, abundance and availability at minimal costs.

A study has been performed in order to analyze the nature of specific appearance characteristics of dyes obtained with natural dyes, given the still insufficiently investigated characteristic discrepancy between visual perception of color obtained with natural dyes versus their objectively defined spectral characteristics. As a source of dye following raw material have been used: pomegranate peel (chromophore: punicalagin and punicalin), onion peel (chromophore: quercetin), green walnut shells and young walnut leaves (chromophore: juglon), Aleppo pine, chamomile, ash, mint and madder. Pre-treatment of the material was performed with metal salts (wetting agents): potassium aluminum sulfate dodecahydrate, copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate and iron(II) sulfate heptahydrate. Wool, silk, polyamide PA and cotton fabric samples non-treated and pretreated with metal salts were dyed with natural pigments listed above. After the dyeing, a colorimetric study based on objective spectrophotometric measurement was performed. An evaluation of the color parameters of each sample was performed (L *, a *, b *, C *, h). Based on objective and subjective analysis of color hue, an analysis of specific differences between subjective perception and objective measurement in the area of specific chromatic- achromatic shades obtained by natural pigments, has been carried out. In addition, an analysis of the color strength regarding the different types of fabric samples as well as different types of mordanting was performed.

The dyeing of linen fabric with natural dye was carried out with flavonoid compounds extracted from onion skin. For this research linen fabric pre- bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, as well as pre- treatment with metallic salts (mordants) on the resulting colouration were studied. Results are presented through the analysis of spectral colour properties (hue (h), chromaticity (C*) and lightness (L*)). Extracted flavonoid derivative has a relatively low substantivity to cellulosic material, therefore the mordant pre-treatment is necessary. Pretreatment of the linen fabric with metal salts and dyeing process resulted in a wide range of colour hues: greyish (without mordant), yellow-brown (Al), red-brown (Cu) to dark brown (Fe). The values of the all colour hue are in the yellow - orange area (h = 66.62 - 81.84). The bleached fabrics retain approximately the hue value, the chromaticity increases relative to the raw samples, but an increase in the brightness value indicates that the samples obtained more vivid colours. This research contributes to the revitalization of flax fibre, to the use of flavonoids for the dyeing of cellulosic materials and to the use of bio waste as a source of dyes.

According ecological lifestyle trends, natural dyes are experiencing their revitalization in the field of textile application. Many designers opt for a sustainable style and realize color palettes with natural dyes using traditional techniques and methods. However, in modern times, the use of natural dyes must be supported by scientific research due to care for human health and the environment, i.e. the choice of resources, conservation of natural habitats, ensuring the color fastness, selection and optimization of the use of mordant, etc. Textiles dyed with natural dyes have specifically beautiful and harmonious dye tones, and in the field of toxicology avoids the harmful effects of synthetic dyes. In addition, natural dyes have antibacterial, antimicrobial, antifungal properties, their beneficial effect on human skin and health in general, is examined. In this study, dyeing of cotton material with natural dye of animal origin extracted from the insect Dactylopius coccus was carried out. Metal salts potassium aluminum sulfate dodecahydrate, copper(II) sulphate pentahydrate and iron(II)sulfate heptahydrate were used in the pre-treatment process as mordants on cotton fabric in order to obtain coloration of specific purple hue. The influence of dye concentration, type and concentration of mordants on the obtained cotton color hues and their correlation with the UV protection property was investigated. Spectral color properties based on spectrophotometric measurement and are shown as the Kubelka-Munk coefficients (K/S) and CIEL*a*b* color values. The fabric UV protection was determined according to AS/NZS 4399:1996 Sun Protective Clothing: evaluation and classification, by UV-A and UV-B transmission measurement on transmission spectrophotometer and calculation of Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF). The obtained results prove that by dyeing textiles with cochineal dye with mordant pretreatment can significantly affect the protective properties of cotton material from UV radiation. Fabrics dyed with cochineal dye (without the addition of electrolytes and the use of mordant) have a UPF value ranging from 10 to 15. The addition of electrolytes increases the K/S values and the UPF value of fabrics increases to 20. A significant increase in UPF values is achieved by using mordants. For samples pre-treated with aluminum sulfate dodecahydrate UPF is 40, with copper (II) sulfate pentahydrate up to 35 and the highest values are achieved with iron(II) sulfate heptahydrate for i.e. UPF 50+. Research has shown that textile material dyed with cochineal dye provides good protection against harmful solar radiation, i.e. the material treated in this way has a higher UPF value (up to UPF 50+) compared to the untreated. Cochineal colored cotton offers protection against UVB radiation, and therefore it may reduce the risk of subsequent occurrence of skin cancer.

Fresh water is an increasingly scarce resource as the demands of an ever-growing world population and the agricultural activity needed to support it consume a steadily rising proportion of global fresh water resources. Consequently, industry generally needs to find ]ways to reduce its water consumption. As a major user and potential polluter of water, the textile wet processing industry is under particular pressure to reduce water consumption on both environmental and economic grounds. Main coloured compound in dye- house waste waters are azo dyestuffs. Azo dyestuffs are the most important dyestuffs applied today. Azo dyes are used for dyeing natural and synthetic fibres. Azo dye molecules include one or more azo groups and may be acid, direct, disperse, basic or reactive dyes. Since an only 85–90% of the value of the dye is fixed on the fabric in dyeing, the waste streams represent the largest point source discharges from the textile industry. Dyes containing an azo bond (-N=N-) during wastewater purifying undergo rapid reductive cleavage under anaerobic conditions. Some azo dyes can be carcinogenic even without being cleaved into aromatic amines. Many azo dyes and their reductively cleaved products as well as chemically related aromatic amines are reported to affect human health, causing allergies and other human maladies. Due to the above, it is important to take into account the choice of method of wastewater treatment of the dye-house, which will not affect the chemical structure of the dye. In addition, law prohibits dyes that can adversely affect human health and the environment.

U radu je provedeno bojadisanje vunene, svilene, poliamidne i pamučne tkanine prirodnim biljnim bojilima dobivenim iz biootpada. Kao izvor bojila korištene su sljedeće sirovine: kora ploda nara, ljuske crvenog luka te zelene orahove ljuske i mlado orahovo lišće. Predobrada materijala provedena je metalnim solima (močilima): kalijev aluminijev sulfat dodekahidrat, bakrov(II) sulfat pentahidrat i željezov(II) sulfat heptahidrat. Provedeno je istraživanje ekološki i ekonomski prihvatljivog postupka bojadisanja s ciljem postizanja optimalne kvalitete obojenja. Dobivenim uzorcima objektivno je vrednovana boja prema CIEL*a*b* sustavu te su određene razlike u boji ovisno o postupku močenja te određene postojanosti obojenja na pranje. U radu su prikazane mogućnosti postizanja tonova obojenja na ispitivanim vrstama tkanina i uz primjenu prirodnih bojila dobivenih iz biootpada, koje bi mogle postići komercijalni razvoj.

Razvoj Interneta započinje u SAD-u šezdesetih godina prošlog stoljeća kao produkt vojnih potreba. Glavni je zadatak bio razvoj slanja paketa podataka preko mreže. Veliki korak koji je doveo do ubrzanog širenja Interneta dogodio se 1990. godine uspostavljanjem jedne od najatraktivnijih mrežnih usluga, World Wide Weba. Daljnjim razvojem Interneta, došlo je do razvoja aplikacija (kojih je svakim danom sve više) i programskih jezika prilagođenih potrebama Interneta. Programski jezik JavaScript u to se vrijeme postavio kao idealno rješenje jer je zadovoljio potrebe komunikacije klijenta i servera. Daljnjim napretkom tehnologije i potrebom korisnika za modernijim sučeljima, JavaScript se dodatno razvija. Nastaju razne biblioteke koje se po potrebi uključuju (dodaju) prilikom programiranja te se ovisno o kombinaciji dodanih biblioteka mijenjaju funkcionalnosti aplikacije, a samim time pružaju i širok spektar novih mogućnosti. Biblioteke su na svom početku bile idealno rješenje, no kasnije su se neke biblioteke u sličnim ili čak istim kombinacijama uključivale u program pa su zbog toga nastali okviri (engl. framework) koji već u sebi imaju uključene najčešće korištene biblioteke. Na taj način je programeru smanjena potreba za odabirom pojedinih biblioteka, ali je za programera osigurano da na početku ima sve što je potrebno, ovisno o području tj. potrebi aplikacije koju razvija. Okviri su danas jako popularni te se velika većina web aplikacija izrađuje pomoću njih, no ipak imaju i neke mane kao što su uporaba drugačije sintakse od čistog JavaScript jezika. Obzirom da svi programeri ne poznaju JavaScript ili neku od njegovih inačica u dovoljnoj mjeri, razvili su se tzv. wrapperi. To su programska okruženja koja omogućuju programeru pisanje koda u već poznatom programskom jeziku, a wrapper, tzv. omotač, doslovno omota sloj oko napisanog koda te ga prevede u JavaScript kod ili neki drugi programski jezik, naravno ovisno o wrapperu. Prednost im je kodiranje u već poznatom jeziku, ali često postoje i mane kao što su ograničenje wrappera koji ima onoliko mogućnosti koliko ih wrapper podržava. Kako bi i studenti bili u tijeku s novim tehnologijama, na fakultetima se osmišljavaju novi kolegiji koji o njima poučavaju. Ipak, satnice na fakultetu su premale da bi se mogla dobiti konkretna znanja o svemu potrebnom za rad u realnim situacijama, ali ipak daju širu sliku što studenta čeka u budućnosti., The history of the Internet began in the USA in the 1960s as a product of military needs. The main task was to develop sending data packages using network. The big step that led to the rapid expansion of the Internet occurred in 1990 by establishing one of the most demanding network services, the World Wide Web. With the further development of the Internet, there has been an increase in the number of applications (more and more each day) and Internetbased programming languages. At that time, the programming language JavaScript was set up as an ideal solution because it met the needs of client and server communication. By further technology developing and user needs for more modern interfaces, JavaScript is evolving. Various libraries are appearing, which are optionally included when programming, and depending on the combination of the added libraries, they change the application's functionality and thus provide a wide range of features. In the beginning, libraries were the ideal solution, but later some libraries were included in the program in similar or even same combinations, which resulted developing frameworks that already include those libraries. With that option, the programmer has fewer choices but in the start has everything that is needed for the application develeoping. Frameworks are very popular today and the majority of web applications use them, but they still have some flaws like different syntax from pure JavaScript language. Since there are developers that don't know or use JavaScript language or some of versions, wrappers have been developed. They are program environments that offer writing code in a known programming language, and that wrapper, literally wrap a layer around the written code and translate it into a JavaScript code or other programming language, of course depending on the wrapper. Theirs great advantage for the programmer is coding in a language they already know, but there are often shortcomings such as wrapper limitations and having as many features as the wrapper has. In order for the students to be in the process of using new technologies, new courses are being set up at the colleges that teach them. However, number of hours are too small to be able to get specific knowledge of everything needed to work in realistic situations but still give a wider picture of what the student is looking forward to in the future.

Educational programme titled „Nature –the Laboratory of Dyes” on the traditional knowledge of the dye plants use with special attention on habitat conservation and biodiversity was developed. This educational programme as a part of the Technical Museum Nikola Tesla exhibition „Nature –the Laboratory of Dyes: traditional technological knowledge“ is aimed at different groups. The exhibition represents the traditional knowledge of the household use of natural dyes of plant origins and bases itself on research work carried out in the far south of Croatia from Pelješac, Primorje to Konavle during 2015 and 2016. Field data has been collected through open interviews, mainly involving farmers and elderly people who were born or have been living in the region for a long time. The research includes data about plant species: the scientific name, family, vernacular name, life form, status (wild or cultivated), parts used in the production of household dyes, the process of making a dye, and the way the dye is used. Educational programme consists of the interdisciplinary educational workshops on the following themes: traditional ecological knowledge on household dye use in the Dubrovnik region, karst landscape valorisation and conservation status of plants used for dyeing. The main methods of the workshops include short lectures, field work (photography, identification of various plant species, collection of plant material were appropriate etc.), laboratory work – making a dye with the collected material and finally testing the application of the laboratory results on different materials, referring onto the heritage of the area.

Educational programme Lokrum island hidden colours was developed as a part of the Technical Museum Nikola Tesla exhibition Nature — the Laboratory of Colours. The exhibition represents the traditional knowledge of the use of natural dyes of mineral, plant and animal origins in the household in the far south of Croatia from Pelješac and Primorje to Konavle. Field research of this traditional knowledge was carried out during 2015 and 2016. Over 60 interviewees participated. The application of natural dyes in the household, especially the painting of walls, eggs at Easter time, clothing, fishing nets and as hair dye preparation was recorded. The most common plants used for obtaining dyes in the Dubrovnik region are: Pinus halepensis Mill., Allium cepa L., Rubia peregrina L., Chamomilla recutita (L.) Rauschert, Juglans regia L., Crocus sp., Fraxinus ornus L., Punica granatum L. The use of calx (quicklime) was also recorded. Each individual can contribute to the restoration of traditional knowledge, and the support of professionals and institutions, which can provide impetus with their educational programmes, is particularly important. Therefore, in order to enable the involvement of visitors in the preservation of natural and cultural heritage, the museum educator and curator, scientists in the field of natural and technical sciences and the expert on nature protection participated in the design of educational programme. It is designed with special attention to the preservation of habitats and biodiversity of Lokrum island and is intended for different target groups, from preschool children to senior citizens ; from locals to visitors to the island of Lokrum. The implementation of this programme on Lokrum island has been taking place since 2017 as a supplement to the respective exhibition staged in the Ethnographic Museum in Dubrovnik. Namely, the visitors had the opportunity to visit the exhibition with the expert guidance of the curator, after which the programme continued on Lokrum island within the framework of interdisciplinary workshops. These included short presentations, expert tours, fieldwork and determination of individual plant species, as well as elements of laboratory work and art workshops using natural dyes. During the workshops on Lokrum, a museum’s educational printed material was also used - a workbook as a supplement to the exhibition catalogue. Although the exhibition at the Ethnographic Museum was staged in 2017, the program continued successfully on Lokrum, confirming the role of the protected special reserve Lokrum Island as an active area in educational activities. Given the interest, especially in primary and secondary school teaching, it can also be concluded that this topic contributes to the protection of nature and the revival of traditional knowledge that is particularly relevant to the local community.

The term “water management” denotes immediate the execution and the organization of the execution of tasks related to the provision of required water quantities, protection of water from pollution, the regulation of watercourses and other water bodies, and the protection from adverse effects of water. United Nations program “Sustainable development goals” is presented with an emphasis on water issues. Croatia is fully committed to comprehensive implementation of Agenda 2030, both within the framework of the United Nations and within the framework of the European Union where, together with other Member States of the European Union, coordinates and develops its views in regard of the sustainable development

In this paper, the suitability of screen printing of woollen hand knitted samples with three natural dyes (curcumin-turmeric lat. Curcuma longa ; onion lat. Allium cepa ; walnut lat. Juglans regia) will be presented, as a part of an extensive research including raw material analysis - physically mechanical properties of woollen yarns and knitwear (yarn fineness, twist, diameter, hairiness, strength, knitwear surface mass and thickness) ; optimization of thickener source, dry matter content, dry matter concentration and pH ; examination of rheological properties of thickeners (viscosity, fluidity and elasticity) ; steaming optimization ; wash fastness properties testing. Spectrophotometric analyse has been performed as well as the subjective evaluation of the final product appearance.

In order to improve hydrophilicity, dyeing and antimicrobial properties of wool, the potentialapplication of low-pressure oxygen plasma pretreatment was explored. After optimization of process parameters, samples of wool fabrics were dyed with natural dye extracted from Punica granatum L. The effect of plasma pretreatment and mordants on colorimetric and antibacterial properties against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae was investigated. The results revealed a significant improvement in wicking ability and tensile strength of all tested samples. Plasma pretreatment proved to be suitable for improving color yield and even replacing the application of certain mordants in the process of dyeing wool with pomegranate dye. All samples exhibited good antibacterial activity against tested bacteria. Only a slight decrease in color strength and antibacterial activity is visible on plasma pretreated samples after 28 days of aging.

This paper’s research presents the possibility of batch dyeing three-dimensional printed acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene (ABS) with disperse dyestuff. The aim of this investigation is achieving a wide range of hues and colour effects for 3D ABS materials. The 3D process encompasses a wide range of applications, primarily because of the large number of available materials for the production of products. ABS was selected because of its good balance of properties, toughness/strength/temperature resistance, coupled with its ease of moulding and a high quality surface finish. The applied method has provided very good results according to the CIELab colour parameters range, and rubbing fastness.

Textile industry uses large quantities of water for various textile processing operations. This results in wastewater of a very heterogeneous composition that needs to be treated by various processes. One of the wastewater treatment processes is adsorption. The adsorption behavior of dye Reactive Black 5 (Everzol Black B, Everlight Chemical Industrial Corp., C.I. 20505) on activated carbon of 0.1 g mass and at temperature of 45(±1) °C was investigated. The concentration of the dye was c0 = 300 mg dm-3 and the measurements were performed over a period of 30 minutes to 16 hours. The test results were compared to those obtained under the same conditions, but with activated carbon mass increase of 0.1 g, in order to determine the effect of the activated carbon mass on dye adsorption. In addition, influence of adsorption process on pH value and standard Gibbs free energy for both adsorption systems was also determined.

Prirodnom košenil bojilu životinjskog podrijetla ekstrahiranom iz Dactylopius coccus ispitana su bojadisarska svojstva te je obojadisana vuna korištena u svrhu izrade filcanog šešira. Istaknute su glavne karakteristike vune kao tekstilnog vlakna te se kroz morfološku građu vunenog vlakna objašnjava proces filcanja. Opisuje se tehnika filcanja kao drevna vještina za koju možemo reći da pripada hrvatskoj baštini, jer korijene ima u prošlosti kada su se odjevni predmeti prvenstveno izrađivali od vune. Opisana je tehnika izrade zračne čipke, koja je formom jednostavna, ali zahtjevna za realizaciju te iziskuje mnogo vremena i truda. U ovom radu zračna čipka je korištena kao dekorativni dodatak na filcanom šeširu. Šeširi su kroz povijest uvijek imali svoje značenje i definirali status osoba u društvu. Vuna je bojadisana prirodnim košenil bojilom uz predobradu metalnim solima (močilima). Opisan je postupak predobrade metalnim solima i postupak bojadisanja vune te su navedeni procesni parametri pri kojima se provodio eksperimentalni dio koji je potkrijepljen usporedbom dobivenih rezultata. Primjena prirodnih bojila bila je poznata prije više tisuća godina i ona su bila glavna bojila za bojadisanje tekstila, sve do druge polovice 19. stoljeća kada se razvijaju prva sintetska bojila i prirodna bojila odlaze u zaborav. Važnost i uloga ovog bojila, koja je kroz povijest mijenjala značenja, bila je inspiracija stvaranju novog i funkcionalnog predmeta, potpuno prilagođenog današnjem vremenu, ali s naglaskom na prirodno, pritom koristeći stare tehnike izrade materijala.

In this paper, the impact of the 3D printing parameter on coloristic values of the prints has been analyzed. 3D samples are made of acrylonitrile / butadiene / styrene (ABS) polymers, based on a fused filament fabrication principle (FDM / FFF). The influence of certain 3D print parameters on the functional and mechanical properties of 3D print objects is undeniable, but little research is devoted to the importance of color and the influence of print parameters on the appearance and reproduction of 3D prints color. Therefore, the focus of the experimental part of this paper is precisely on the analysis of the relationship between the 3D printing process parameters and the coloristic values of the surface obtained. Objective color characterization based on spectrophotometric measurements and color difference calculations for the equally colored 3D surface but with the difference in temperature and thickness of the printing layer, were obtained according to the CIE system.

Textile industry is considered to be one of the major environmental pollutants, primarily due to wastewaters quantity and composition. Therefore, it is important to examine different methods of their treatment. This paper explores a possibility of removing dye Reactive Black 5 by adsorption on activated carbon. For this purpose, the isothermal adsorption of dye Everzol Black B at 45(±1) °C was carried out in time from 30 - 960 minutes, and is compared with results obtained for dye Drimarene Black B. It was found that already after 30 min dye Drimarene Black R-3B was adsorbed by 20 % more compared to dye Everzol Black B. This fact confirmed assumption that dyes of the same chemical constitution, but produced by different manufacturers have a different content of chromophoric component and additional substances, what results in their different behaviour during adsorption. In order to investigate the mechanism of adsorption of Everzol Black B dye on activated carbon a kinetic studies have been also carried out. Experimental data were analysed by a pseudo-first-order and pseudo-second-order kinetic models, as well as intraparticle diffusion model.

Tekstilna industrija je veliki zagađivač okoliša. U procesima izrade i oplemenjivanja tekstila dolazi do značajnog nakupljanja onečišćujućih tvari u tehnološkoj vodi koja se ne smije ispuštati u prijemnike. Adsorpcija na aktivnom ugljenu kao adsorbentu je pouzdana metoda za uklanjanje onečišćujućih tvari u industrijskim otpadnim vodama. Adsorpcija je jedna od najčešće korištenih tehnika za obradu vode, osobito za uklanjanje stabilnih, toksičnih i biološki nerazgradivih tvari, kao i za uklanjanje neželjenih mirisa i boje. Utvrđeno je da je postupak adsorpcije prihvatljiva metoda za uklanjanje bojila iz industrijskih otpadnih voda zbog jednostavnosti, fleksibilnosti dizajna i visokog stupnja pročišćavanja vode.

Tekstilna industrija jedan je od većih potrošača i onečišćivača vode te je neophodno provoditi istraživanja sa ciljem iznalaženja načina uklanjanja štetnih tvari iz otpadnih voda. U tekstilnoj industriji upotrebljavaju se velike količine vode za različite postupke obrade tekstilnih materijala. Zbog toga nastaju otpadne vode vrlo heterogenog sastava koje je potrebno pročistiti različitim procesima kako bi se mogle ponovo koristiti tehnološkom procesu ili ispustiti u prijemnike ili sustav javne odvodnje. Jedan od postupaka pročišćavanja otpadnih voda je i proces adsorpcije. U ovom radu ispitano je adsorpcijsko ponašanje reaktivnog bojila Reactive Black 5 (C.I. 20505) na aktivnom ugljenu mase 0, 2 g pri 25(±1) °C i 45(±1) °C. Ispitan je utjecaj početne koncentracije bojila na proces adsorpcije, za masene koncentracije od c0 = 300 mg dm3, 500 mg dm3 i 700 mg dm3. Mjerenja su provedena u vremenskom periodu od 30 minuta do 16 sati. Eksperimentalni podaci su pokazali da je aktivni ugljen učinkovito adsorpcijsko sredstvo za uklanjanje bojila Reactive Black 5 jer se više od 60% bojila adsorbira već nakon 30 minuta bez obzira na početnu koncentraciju i temperaturu.

Pojedinom predobradom i modifikacijom pamuka mijenjaju se njegova adsorpcijska svojstva. Iz tog razloga u ovom radu istraženo je može li se postići prugasti uzorak na pletivu isključivo različitom predobradom i modifikacijom pamuka. U tu svrhu iz različito predobrađene pređe: sirove smuđene, industrijski mercerizirane uz rasteg, slobodno mercerizirane, kemijski bijeljene i kationizirane tijekom mercerizacije izrađena su prugasta pletiva. Potom je provedeno bojadisanje direktnim i reaktivnim bojilom s ciljem dobivanja prugastog uzorka različitih dubina obojenja (K/S). Pokazalo se da je pruga kemijski bijeljene pređe najveće vrijednosti svjetline (L*), dok najmanju vrijednost pokazuje pruga iz kationizirane pređe bez obzira na korišteno bojilo. Najmanju dubinu obojenja pokazalo je sirovo pletivo, dok je kod kationiziranog vrijednost K/S čak četiri puta viša. Na osnovu izgleda dobivenih pletiva idejno su osmišljeni modeli ženske odjeće – haljina i pončo.

Silk fibers, composed of sericin and fibroin, are spun by the silkworm Bombyx mori. Fibroin is the structural protein of silk fiber, whereas sericin is the water-soluble proteinaceous glue that serves to bond the fibers together. Silk degumming is a primary important process, which needs to be carried out uniformly to a sufficient level to get good quality in further processes such as dyeing. The conventional method of sericin removal is degumming with Marseille soap at alkaline pH. Nowadays, in degumming process, citric acid, as organic acid, and ultrasound are generally milder and less aggressive than the action of alkali and perform an efficient cleaning operations that removes sericin from the raw silk. The aim of this paper is to investigate dyeing behavior of silk degummed with ultrasound and citric acid. For this purpose, silk fibers were degummed by the classic procedure, and with different concentrations of citric acid (15% and 30%), with and without ultrasound. After degumming, samples were dyed using acid and metal-complex dyes. The efficiency of the process implementation was determined by measuring absorbance of dyebath and the color coordinates of dyed samples. Considering the obtained results, it can be concluded that the degumming of silk fibers with ultrasound and citric acid shows potential for possible industrial application.

Polazeći od temeljne ideje da se „street art“ prenosi na podlogu (zid) slično kao i motivi u tekstilnom tisku na tkanine, u radu je razmatrana mogućnosti uporabe pigmentnih bojila pri tiskanju „street art“ motiva na tekstilnim materijalima. Cilj je bio dobiti vjeran prikaz „street arta“ na estetskim i nosivim predmetima. Tiskanjem „street arta“ na tekstilne materijale, i na taj način micanjem s ulice, gubi na samoj vrijednosti te umjetnosti. Ovo se pokušalo nadoknaditi koristeći torbe kao podloge za tisak te tako motive ostaviti na mjestima gdje će i u uporabi biti dostupni očima velikog broja promatrača. Tiskom na torbe „street art“ motivi zadržavaju svoju bit - prenošenje određene poruke - upravo kao što bi to bio slučaj da se nalaze otisnuti na javnim mjestima. Izabrani motivi tiskani su na tekstilne materijale pigmentnim tiskom. Rad je spoj tehnološkog znanja, kreativnosti i želje za eksperimentiranjem. Željeni efekt spajanja „street arta“ i tekstilnog tiska postignut je kombiniranjem transparentne, pokrivne i bubreće tiskarske paste sa bijelom i crnom tkaninom. Otisnutim materijalima određena je uporabna postojanost obojenja na strojno pranje i sušenje u sušilici rublja.

Budući da ekologija poprima sve veći utjecaj u društvu, pa time i u industriji, uvode se novi proizvodi i tehnologije i u tekstilstvu. Obzirom da vuna diljem svijeta predstavlja važan proizvod ovčarstva i važnu sirovinu u tekstilnoj industriji, posebna se pažnja posvećuje očuvanju okoliša pri pranju, obradi i doradi vune. Pranje vune najčešće se provodi pranjem u različitim kupeljima, ekstrakcijom ili smrzavanjem, a otpadne vode su jako zagađene i heterogenog su sastava. Otpadne vode nakon pranja vune osim ekološkog problema mogu predstavljati izvor korisne sirovine npr. nusproizvod pri pranju vune je lanolin važna sirovina za farmaceutsku i kozmetičku industriju, a mulj koji nastaje pranjem, može se koristiti kao gnojivo ili kao sirovina u proizvodnji građevinskog materijala i ogrijeva.

In this paper, the influence of low-pressure O2 plasma on surface properties and dyeability of wool is studied. Wool is a natural fiber that consists mainly of keratin protein with high number of disulfide cysteine crosslinkages (-S-S-). It has a complex morphological structure containing internal cortical cells that make 90 % of fiber and external cuticular cells. This complex structure makes chemical processing of wool difficult. The scales need to be removed in order to improve wool absorbency and make the penetration of dyes and chemicals possible [1, 2]. There is a number of methods researched in order to modify wool surface by physical and chemical means such as ultrasound, ozone, enzyme treatments, microwave irridation, laser technology, plasma etc [3]. Fiber surface modification using plasma is an environmentally friendly, dry-state process that modifies only the outer layer of substrate and consumes minimal amounts of gasses or monomer vapor [2]. In this research, plasma etching of wool surface was conducted using different process parameters (300 W and 500 W) for 2 and 5 minutes. Natural dye extracted from Punica granatum L. – Punicaceae and 2% KAl(SO4)2 and 0, 1M AgNO3 as mordants were used on plasma pretreated wool. Results show great increase in wettability of all plasma treated samples. An increase in the breaking strength and elongation was observed with increased flexural rigidity. The color strength of plasma treated and untreated samples was analyzed using remission spectrophotometer. Color depth (K/S values) indicate that plasma pretreatments can increase the dye exhaustion and can even replace the application of mordants.

Textile materials exposed to plasma undergo chemical and physical transformations in their surface layer and the resulting final properties include increased hydrophilicity, wettability, adhesion properties, improved dyeing and printing properties, electrostatic properties, etc. The present research is focused on the optimization of plasma process parameters for achieving targeted functional properties of different textile materials. Activation of textile materials surface was carried out using low-pressure plasma system (LP-Nano LF-40 kHz, Diener) with O2 as non-polymerizing gas at optimized process parameters. Plasma was investigated by optical emission spectroscopy (OES) and the process parameters for which oxygen concentrations were known have been used. For OES measurements Avantes AvaSpec 3648 16-bit CCD spectrometer with a nominal spectral resolution of 0.8 nm in the optical range from 200 to 1100 nm was used. Morphology of the fibers surface were analyzed using SEM microscopy, while the wettability properties of all samples were explored by testing capillary rise of water by vertical test. To achieve antibacterial properties of the cotton, lyocell and modal fabrics, solution of silver nitrate was used, while for dyeing of the lyocell and modal fabrics reactive phthalocyanine dyestuff was applied. Wool fabrics were treated with aqueous plant extract of Punica granatum L.- Punicaceae, by using exhaustion method, with or without 2% KAl(SO4)2 and 0, 1M AgNO3 solution of metal salts. Results indicate that the pretreatment of the surfaces with O2 plasma certainly increases the exhaustion rate of treated fabrics with phthalocyanine and natural dyes. The antibacterial efficiency against selected bacteria was also confirmed. Pretreatment with oxygen plasma indicates the changes in the surface layer of the fibers, which are in correlation with the increasing degree of wettability of all samples.

Na pojavu i razvoj tenisica utjecali su mnogobrojni faktori ; od otkrića vulkanizacije gume, pojačanog interesa za sport i rekreaciju krajem 19. i početkom 20. stoljeća, nastanka popularnih Convers All Star tenisica, popularizacije od strane vrhunskih sportaša i slavnih osoba iz svijeta filma i glazbe, želje za identifikacijom s određenim ciljanim skupinama. U radu je sažeto opisan razvoj prvih tenisica, pojava značajnih robnih marki tenisica u prvoj polovici 20. stoljeća, razvoj modnih tenisica u drugoj polovici 20. stoljeća te suvremena primjena aditivnih tehnologija i 3D tiska u izradi tenisica.

Ubrzanim razvojem industrije i širenjem globalnog tržišta dolazi do niza problema vezanih uz proizvodnju, pakiranje, prijevoz i upotrebu kemikalija. Zakonodastvo svake države je bilo različito u svim tim segmentima, što je ometalo slobodnu trgovinu kemikalijama na području Europske unije i međunarodnom tržištu te povećavalo opasnost od štetnih utjecaja kemikalija na ljudsko zdravlje i okoliš zbog nedovoljno informacija [5]. Zbog svih tih problema koji se javljaju donosi se novi pravni okvir Europske unije, Uredba REACH. Ciljevi ove uredbe su poboljšati zaštitu ljudskog zdravlja i okoliša od rizika koji mogu predstavljati kemikalije, poticati razvoj alternativnih metoda ocjenjivanja opasnosti tvari, povećati konkurentnost kemijske industrije u EU, kao ključnog sektora za gospodarstvo EU, osigurati slobodan protok tvari i smjesa na unutarnjem tržištu Europske unije, zaštititi tržište EU i prijenos odgovornosti s nadležnih tijela na industriju. Ovom uredbom točno se definirala registracija, evaluacija, autorizacija i ograničavanje kemikalija [5].

Inkjet tehnologija otiskivanja postala je dostupna, kako nižom cijenom tako i kvalitetom, te se sve više upotrebljava za otiskivanje na različitim materijalima pa tako i na tekstilnim materijalima. Cilj ovog rada je pobliže analizirati postojanost otisaka na pamučnom tekstilnom materijalu nastalih sa Inkjet UV sušećim bojilima. Za proizvodnju otisaka primjeniti će se piezo Inkjet Roland LEC 300 koji koristi UV sušeće bojilo (UV LED tehnologijom). Otisnuti uzorci analizirani u radu pripremljeni su direktnim otiskivanjem na pamučnu tkaninu. Postojanost otisaka na pranje s pripadajućim spektrofotometrijskim mjerenjima provedeno je na Sveučilištu u Zagrebu Tekstilno-tehnološkom fakultetu. Dodatno ispitivanje gamuta (kolorimetijska analiza) izvršena je na Sveučilištu u Zagrebu Grafičkom fakultetu.

U ovom radu istražena je mogućnost jednokupeljnog bojadisanja pređe iz mješavine pamuka i kašmira. Iz tog razloga bilo je neophodno istražiti uvjete obrade najprije predbijeljenja pređe u kojima se dobija prihvatljiva bjelina uz najmanje oštećenje, prvenstveno kašmira, a potom mogućnost jednokupeljnog bojadisanja. Poznato je da peroksidni ioni u alkalnom mediju izazivaju oštećenje keratinskih vlakana uslijed oksidacije disulfidnih veza stvarajući cistinsku kiselinu a neophodni su za bijeljenje celuloznih vlakana, kemijsko bijeljenje je provedeno vodikovim peroksidom uz aktivator Prestogen W u kiselom mediju i perkarbonatom uz aktivator tetra acetil etilen diamin (TAED) u blago lužnatom mediju. U oba slučaja postiže se zadovoljavajuća čvrstoća uz dobar opip pređe, ali valja istaknuti da se bijeljenjem perkarbonatom postiže se značajno viši stupanj bjeline. Razvoj reaktivnih bifunkcijskih bojila omogućio je bojadisanje specifičnih mješavina. Uobičajeni dvokupljni procesi bojadisanja provode se podešavanjem procesnih parametara pojedinoj komponenti pri čemu često dolazi do oštećenja druge, osobito u mješavini celuloznog i proteinskog vlakna. Iz tog razloga u ovom radu pređa je bojadisana bifunkcijskim bojilom Bezaktiv Marineblau S-2GL (CHT-Bezema) u koncentracijskom rasponu 0, 1 ; 0, 5 ; 2 i 4 % na masu materijlala. Obzirom da se pokazalo u kemijskom bijeljenju da pH 8 odgovara i celuloznom i keratinskom vlaknu, provedeno je jednokupeljno bojadisanje pri čemu je konstantan pH osiguran dodatkom 2 g/l NaHCO3. Za postizanje jednoličnog obojenja uz odgovarajuće iscrpljenje ciljano je dodano 50 g/l Na2SO4. Na temelju dobivenih vrijednosti kolorističkih parametara, pokazalo se da je moguće provesti jednokupeljni postupak bojadisanja uz zadržavanje visoke kvalitete pređe iz pamuka i kašmira.

Područje primjene bojila je velik, a čovjek konstantno dolazi u neposredni dodir, prilikom unosa hrane i pića, nošenjem odjeće i uporabom stvari koje ga okružuju. Ubrzanom razvoju industrije i širenju globalnog tržišta dolazi do potrebe klasifikacije kemijskih tvari i registracije kemikalija u svrhu zaštite čovjekovog zdravlja i okoliša od njihovih štetnih svojstava i mogućih rizika tijekom izloženosti u svim fazama, od proizvodnje do uporabe. Problemi razvoja, širenja industrije i različito zakonodastvo svake države onemogućuje slobodnu trgovinu kemikalijama i povećava opasnost od štetnih utjecaja kemikalija na ljudsko zdravlje i okoliš zbog nedovoljnih informacija. Zbog svih tih problema donosi se novi pravni okvir Europske unije, Uredba REACH čiji su ciljevi: • poboljšati zaštitu ljudskog zdravlja i okoliša od rizika koje mogu uzrokovati kemikalije, • poticanje razvoja alternativnih metoda za ocjenjivanje opasnosnih tvari, • povećati konkurentnost kemijske industrije u EU, • osigurati slobodan protok tvari i smjesa na unutarnjem tržištu Europske unije, • zaštita tržišta EU i prijenos odgovornosti s nadležnih tijela na industriju. Osim Uredbe REACH, Europska unija donosi još tri Uredbe koje se odnose na razvrstavanje, označavanje, pakiranje, skladištenje, prijevoz, korištenje i odlaganje opasnih kemikalija, sve u svrhu zaštite čovjekovog zdravlja i okoliša, a to su: • Uredba CLP (Classification, Labelling, Packaging), Uredba o razvrstavanju, označavanju, pakiranju, • Uredba BPR (Biocidal Products Regulation), Uredba o biocidnim proizvodima i pripravcima, • Uredba PIC (Prior Informed Consent procedure), Uredba o prethodnom informiranom pristanku. Ove Uredbe ne odnose se samo na one kemikalije koje se primjenjuju u industrijskim procesima, već na sve kemijske tvari koje rabimo u svakodnevnom životu: proizvodi za čišćenje, boje, proizvodi poput odjeće, namještaja i električnih uređaja.