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The total melanin synthesis in the skin depends on various melanogenic factors, including the number of viable melanocytes, the level of melanogenic enzymes per cell, and the reaction rate of the enzymes. The purpose of this study is to examine the effects of L-cysteine (L-Cys), L-ascorbic acid (L-AA), and their derivatives on the tyrosinase (TYR) activity and autoxidation of L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) in vitro and the viability and melanin synthesis of B16/F10 cells under different conditions. L-Cysteinamide (C-NH 2 ), glutathione (GSH), L-Cys, L-AA, and N -acetyl L-cysteine (NAC) inhibited the catalytic activity of TYR in vitro. L-AA, C-NH 2 , L-ascorbic acid 2- O -glucoside (AAG), and 3- O -ethyl L-ascorbic acid (EAA) inhibited the autoxidation of L-DOPA in vitro. L-DOPA exhibited cytotoxicity at 0.1 mM and higher concentrations, whereas L-tyrosine (L-Tyr) did not affect cell viability up to 3 mM. L-AA, magnesium L-ascorbyl 2-phosphate (MAP), and L-Cys attenuated the cell death induced by L-DOPA. C-NH 2 decreased the intracellular melanin level at the basal state, whereas L-AA, MAP, and AAG conversely increased it. C-NH 2 reduced the number of darkly pigmented cells via in situ L-DOPA staining, whereas L-AA, MAP, GSH, and AAG increased it. C-NH 2 decreased the intracellular melanin level at the alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated state, while NAC and GSH increased it. L-AA and C-NH 2 decreased the intracellular melanin level at the L-Tyr-stimulated state, but NAC and GSH increased it. L-Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATI) showed no or minor effects in most experiments. This study suggests that L-AA can either promote or inhibit the different melanogenic factors, and C-NH 2 can inhibit the multiple melanogenic factors consistently. This study highlights the multifaceted properties of L-Cys, L-AA, and their derivatives that can direct their therapeutic applications in hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, or both disorders.

Fibrosis, which causes structural hardening and functional degeneration in various organs, is characterized by the excessive production and accumulation of connective tissue containing collagen, alpha-smooth muscle actin (α-SMA), etc. In traditional medicine, extracts of medicinal plants or herbal prescriptions have been used to treat various fibrotic diseases. The purpose of this narrative review is to discuss the antifibrotic effects of rosmarinic acid (RA) and plant extracts that contain RA, as observed in various experimental models. RA, as well as the extracts of Glechoma hederacea , Melissa officinalis , Elsholtzia ciliata , Lycopus lucidus , Ocimum basilicum , Prunella vulgaris , Salvia rosmarinus ( Rosmarinus officinalis ), Salvia miltiorrhiza , and Perilla frutescens , have been shown to attenuate fibrosis of the liver, kidneys, heart, lungs, and abdomen in experimental animal models. Their antifibrotic effects were associated with the attenuation of oxidative stress, inflammation, cell activation, epithelial-mesenchymal transition, and fibrogenic gene expression. RA treatment activated peroxisomal proliferator-activated receptor gamma (PPARγ), 5' AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK), and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2) while suppressing the transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β) and Wnt signaling pathways. Interestingly, most plants that are reported to contain RA and exhibit antifibrotic activity belong to the family Lamiaceae. This suggests that RA is an active ingredient for the antifibrotic effect of Lamiaceae plants and that these plants are a useful source of RA. In conclusion, accumulating scientific evidence supports the effectiveness of RA and Lamiaceae plant extracts in alleviating fibrosis and maintaining the structural architecture and normal functions of various organs under pathological conditions.

Metal chelators are used for various industrial and medical purposes based on their physicochemical properties and biological activities. In biological systems, copper ions bind to certain enzymes as cofactors to confer catalytic activity or bind to specific proteins for safe storage and transport. However, unbound free copper ions can catalyze the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), causing oxidative stress and cell death. The present study aims to identify amino acids with copper chelation activities that might mitigate oxidative stress and toxicity in skin cells exposed to copper ions. A total of 20 free amino acids and 20 amidated amino acids were compared for their copper chelation activities in vitro and the cytoprotective effects in cultured HaCaT keratinocytes exposed to CuSO 4 . Among the free amino acids, cysteine showed the highest copper chelation activity, followed by histidine and glutamic acid. Among the amidated amino acids, cysteinamide showed the highest copper chelation activity, followed by histidinamide and aspartic acid. CuSO 4 (0.4-1.0 mM) caused cell death in a concentration-dependent manner. Among the free and amidated amino acids (1.0 mM), only histidine and histidinamide prevented the HaCaT cell death induced by CuSO 4 (1.0 mM). Cysteine and cysteinamide had no cytoprotective effects despite their potent copper-chelating activities. EDTA and GHK-Cu, which were used as reference compounds, had no cytoprotective effects either. Histidine and histidinamide suppressed the CuSO 4 -induced ROS production, glutathione oxidation, lipid peroxidation, and protein carbonylation in HaCaT cells, whereas cysteine and cysteinamide had no such effects. Bovine serum albumin (BSA) showed copper-chelating activity at 0.5-1.0 mM (34-68 mg mL -1 ). Histidine, histidinamide, and BSA at 0.5-1.0 mM enhanced the viability of cells exposed to CuCl 2 or CuSO 4 (0.5 mM or 1.0 mM) whereas cysteine and cysteinamide had no such effects. The results of this study suggest that histidine and histidinamide have more advantageous properties than cysteine and cysteinamide in terms of alleviating copper ion-induced toxic effects in the skin.

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.

Air pollution causes oxidative stress that leads to inflammatory diseases and premature aging of the skin. The purpose of this study was to examine the antioxidant effect of Korean propolis on oxidative stress in human epidermal HaCaT keratinocytes exposed to particulate matter with a diameter of less than 10 μm (PM 10 ). The total ethanol extract of propolis was solvent-fractionated with water and methylene chloride to divide into a hydrophilic fraction and a lipophilic fraction. The lipophilic fraction of propolis was slightly more cytotoxic, and the hydrophilic fraction was much less cytotoxic than the total extract. The hydrophilic fraction did not affect the viability of cells exposed to PM 10 , but the total propolis extract and the lipophilic fraction aggravated the toxicity of PM 10 . The total extract and hydrophilic fraction inhibited PM 10 -induced ROS production and lipid peroxidation in a concentration-dependent manner, whereas the lipophilic fraction did not show such effects. High-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-DAD) analysis showed that the hydrophilic fraction contained phenylpropanoids, such as caffeic acid, p- coumaric acid, and ferulic acid, whereas the lipophilic faction contained caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE). The former three compounds inhibited PM 10 -induced ROS production, lipid peroxidation, and/or glutathione oxidation, and ferulic acid was the most effective among them, but CAPE exhibited cytotoxicity and aggravated the toxicity of PM 10 . This study suggests that Korean propolis, when properly purified, has the potential to be used as a cosmetic material that helps to alleviate the skin toxicity of air pollutants.

Melanin pigment is a major factor in determining the color of the skin, and its abnormal increase or decrease can cause serious pigmentation disorders. The melanin pigment of the skin is divided into light pheomelanin and dark eumelanin, and a big difference between them is whether they contain sulfur. Melanin synthesis starts from a common reaction in which tyrosine or dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) is oxidized by tyrosinase (TYR) to produce dopaquinone (DQ). DQ is spontaneously converted to leukodopachrome and then oxidized to dopachrome, which enters the eumelanin synthesis pathway. When DQ reacts with cysteine, cysteinyl dopa is generated, which is oxidized to cysteinyl DQ and enters the pheomelanin synthesis pathway. Therefore, thiol compounds can influence the relative synthesis of eumelanin and pheomelanin. In addition, thiol compounds can inhibit enzymatic activity by binding to copper ions at the active site of TYR, and act as an antioxidant scavenging reactive oxygen species and free radicals or as a modulator of redox balance, thereby inhibiting overall melanin synthesis. This review will cover the metabolic aspects of thiol compounds, the role of thiol compounds in melanin synthesis, comparison of the antimelanogenic effects of various thiol compounds, and clinical trials on the skin lightening efficacy of thiol compounds. We hope that this review will help identify the advantages and disadvantages of various thiol compounds as modulators of skin pigmentation and contribute to the development of safer and more effective strategies for the treatment of pigmentation disorders.

Airborne particulate matter with a size of 10 μm or less (PM 10 ) can cause oxidative damages and inflammatory reactions in the skin. This study was conducted to discover natural products that are potentially useful in protecting the skin from PM 10 . Among the hot water extracts of a total of 23 medicinal plants, Siegesbeckiae Herba extract (SHE), which showed the strongest protective effect against PM 10 cytotoxicity, was selected, and its mechanism of action and active constituents were explored. SHE ameliorated PM 10 -induced cell death, lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release, lipid peroxidation, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in HaCaT cells. SHE decreased the expression of KEAP1, a negative regulator of NRF2, and increased the expression of NRF2 target genes, such as HMOX1 and NQO1. SHE selectively induced the enzymes involved in the synthesis of GSH (GCL-c and GCL-m), the regeneration of GSH (GSR and G6PDH), and GSH conjugation of xenobiotics (GSTκ1), rather than the enzymes that directly scavenge ROS (SOD1, CAT, and GPX1). SHE increased the cellular content of GSH and mitigated the oxidation of GSH to GSSG caused by PM 10 exposure. Of the solvent fractions of SHE, the n-butyl alcohol (BA) fraction ameliorated cell death in both the absence and presence of PM 10 . The BA fraction contained a high amount of chlorogenic acid. Chlorogenic acid reduced PM 10 -induced cell death, LDH release, and ROS production. This study suggests that SHE protects cells from PM 10 toxicity by increasing the cellular antioxidant capacity and that chlorogenic acid may be an active phytochemical of SHE.

Vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid, niacin) deficiency causes the systemic disease pellagra, which leads to dermatitis, diarrhea, dementia, and possibly death depending on its severity and duration. Vitamin B3 is used in the synthesis of the NAD + family of coenzymes, contributing to cellular energy metabolism and defense systems. Although nicotinamide (niacinamide) is primarily used as a nutritional supplement for vitamin B3, its pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical uses have been extensively explored. In this review, we discuss the biological activities and cosmeceutical properties of nicotinamide in consideration of its metabolic pathways. Supplementation of nicotinamide restores cellular NAD + pool and mitochondrial energetics, attenuates oxidative stress and inflammatory response, enhances extracellular matrix and skin barrier, and inhibits the pigmentation process in the skin. Topical treatment of nicotinamide, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, reduces the progression of skin aging and hyperpigmentation in clinical trials. Topically applied nicotinamide is well tolerated by the skin. Currently, there is no convincing evidence that nicotinamide has specific molecular targets for controlling skin aging and pigmentation. This substance is presumed to contribute to maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating the redox status of cells along with various metabolites produced from it. Thus, it is suggested that nicotinamide will be useful as a cosmeceutical ingredient to attenuate skin aging and hyperpigmentation, especially in the elderly or patients with reduced NAD + pool in the skin due to internal or external stressors.

Resveratrol (RES) and oxyresveratrol (OXYRES) are considered and utilized as active ingredients of anti-aging skin cosmetics. However, these compounds are susceptible to oxidative discoloration and unpleasant odor in solutions, limiting their use in cosmetics. Accordingly, RES and OXYRES were chemically modified to acetylated derivatives with enhanced stability, and their anti-aging effect on the skin and detailed molecular mechanism of their acetylated derivatives were investigated. Acetylated RES and OXYRES lost their acetyl group and exerted an inhibitory effect on H 2 O 2 -induced ROS levels in human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells. In addition, RES, OXYRES, and their acetylated derivatives suppressed UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression via inhibition of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) and Akt/mTOR signaling pathways. Furthermore, RES, OXYRES, and their acetylated derivatives suppressed type I collagen in TPA-treated HDF cells. Collectively, these results suggest the beneficial effects and underlying molecular mechanisms of RES, OXYRES, and their acetylated derivatives for anti- skin aging applications.

The purpose of this study is to identify amino acid derivatives with potent anti-eumelanogenic activity. First, we compared the effects of twenty different amidated amino acids on tyrosinase (TYR)-mediated dopachrome formation in vitro and melanin content in dark-pigmented human melanoma MNT-1 cells. The results showed that only L-cysteinamide inhibited TYR-mediated dopachrome formation in vitro and reduced the melanin content of cells. Next, the antimelanogenic effect of L-cysteinamide was compared to those of other thiol compounds (L-cysteine, N-acetyl L-cysteine, glutathione, L-cysteine ethyl ester, N-acetyl L-cysteinamide, and cysteamine) and positive controls with known antimelanogenic effects (kojic acid and β-arbutin). The results showed the unique properties of L-cysteinamide, which effectively reduces melanin content without causing cytotoxicity. L-Cysteinamide did not affect the mRNA and protein levels of TYR, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and dopachrome tautomerase in MNT-1 cells. L-Cysteinamide exhibited similar properties in normal human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs). Experiments using mushroom TYR suggest that L-cysteinamide at certain concentrations can inhibit eumelanin synthesis through a dual mechanism by inhibiting TYR-catalyzed dopaquinone synthesis and by diverting the synthesized dopaquinone to the formation of DOPA-cysteinamide conjugates rather than dopachrome. Finally, L-cysteinamide was shown to increase pheomelanin content while decreasing eumelanin and total melanin contents in MNT-1 cells. This study suggests that L-cysteinamide has an optimal structure that can effectively and safely inhibit eumelanin synthesis in MNT-1 cells and HEMs, and will be useful in controlling skin hyperpigmentation.

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.

Since the discovery of antioxidant responsive elements (ARE), which are commonly found in the promoter of the Phase II metabolism/antioxidant enzymes, and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), the transcription factor that binds to ARE, the study conducted in this field has expanded remarkably over the decades, and the Nrf2-mediated pathway is now recognized to occupy a central position in cell defense mechanisms. Induction of the Phase II metabolism/antioxidant enzymes through direct activation of Nrf2 can be a promising strategy for preventing degenerative diseases in general, but a dark side of this strategy should be considered, as Nrf2 activation can enhance the survival of cancer cells. In this review, we discuss the historical discovery of Nrf2 and the regulatory mechanism of the Nrf2-mediated pathway, focusing on the interacting proteins and post-translational modifications. In addition, we discuss the latest studies that examined various natural Nrf2 modulators for the protective roles in the skin, in consideration of their dermatological and cosmetic applications. Studies are reviewed in the order of time of research as much as possible, to help understand how and why such studies were conducted under the circumstances of that time. We hope that this review can serve as a steppingstone in conducting more advanced research by providing a scientific basis for researchers newly entering this field.

Sunlight contains a significant amount of ultraviolet (UV) ray, which leads to various effects on homeostasis in the body. Defense strategies to protect from UV rays have been extensively studied, as sunburn, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis are caused by excessive UV exposure. The primary lines of defense against UV damage are melanin and trans-urocanic acid, which are distributed in the stratum corneum. UV rays that pass beyond these lines of defense can lead to oxidative damage. However, cells detect changes due to UV rays as early as possible and initiate cell signaling processes to prevent the occurrence of damage and repair the already occurred damage. Cosmetic and dermatology experts recommend using a sunscreen product to prevent UV-induced damage. A variety of strategies using antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents have also been developed to complement the skin's defenses against UV rays. Researchers have examined the use of plant-derived materials to alleviate the occurrence of skin aging, diseases, and cancer caused by UV rays. Furthermore, studies are also underway to determine how to promote melanin production to protect from UV-induced skin damage. This review provides discussion of the damage that occurs in the skin due to UV light and describes potential defense strategies using plant-derived materials. This review aims to assist researchers in understanding the current research in this area and to potentially plan future studies.

The skin is directly exposed to the polluted atmospheric environment, and skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and acne vulgaris, can be induced or exacerbated by airborne particulate matter (PM). PM can also promote premature skin aging with its accompanying functional and morphological changes. PM-induced skin diseases and premature skin aging are largely mediated by reactive oxygen species (ROS), and the harmful effects of PM may be ameliorated by safe and effective natural antioxidants. Experimental studies have shown that the extracts and phenolic compounds derived from many plants, such as cocoa, green tea, grape, pomegranate, and some marine algae, have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects on PM-exposed cells. The phenolic compounds can decrease the levels of ROS in cells and/or enhance cellular antioxidant capacity and, thereby, can attenuate PM-induced oxidative damage to nucleic acids, proteins, and lipids. They also lower the levels of cytokines, chemokines, cell adhesion molecules, prostaglandins, and matrix metalloproteinases implicated in cellular inflammatory responses to PM. Although there is still much research to be done, current studies in this field suggest that plant-derived phenolic compounds may have a protective effect on skin exposed to high levels of air pollution.

Antioxidants are deemed useful in controlling oxidative stress associated with extrinsic skin aging and pigmentation disorders. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound found in many edible plants such as Vitis vinifera , and its inhibitory effects on the catalytic activity, gene expression, and posttranslational modifications of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin biosynthetic pathway, provide a mechanistic basis for its antimelanogenic effects seen in melanocytic cells, three-dimensionally reconstituted skin models, and in vivo animal models. As a potent antioxidant and a modulator of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and sirtuin 1, resveratrol can also regulate multiple signaling pathways associated with inflammation and premature aging. Recent clinical studies have supported the efficacy of resveratrol and its analogs, such as resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), in human skin lightening and antiaging. These findings suggest that resveratrol and its analogs are potentially useful as skin lightening and antiaging agents in cosmetics.

Controlling unwanted hyperpigmentation is a major challenge in dermatology and cosmetology, and safe and efficacious antimelanogenic agents are deemed useful for this purpose. p -Coumaric acid is a natural metabolite contained in many edible plants, and its antioxidant activities in reducing oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions have been demonstrated in various experimental models. p -Coumaric acid has the optimal structure to be a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase that catalyzes key reactions in the melanin biosynthetic pathway. Experimental evidence supports this notion as it was found to be a more potent inhibitor of tyrosinase, especially toward human enzymes, than other well-known tyrosinase inhibitors such as arbutin and kojic acid. p -Coumaric acid inhibited melanin synthesis in murine melanoma cells, human epidermal melanocytes, and reconstituted three-dimensional human skin models. Ex-vivo skin permeation experiments and in-vivo efficacy tests for p -coumaric acid confirmed its efficient transdermal delivery and functional efficacy in reducing erythema development and skin pigmentation due to ultraviolet radiation exposure. Human studies further supported its effectiveness in hypopigmentation and depigmentation. These findings suggest that p -coumaric acid has good potential to be used as a skin-lightening active ingredient in cosmetics. Future studies are needed to extensively examine its safety and efficacy and to develop an optimized cosmetic formulation for the best performance in skin lightening.

Atmospheric particulate matter (PM) is an important cause of skin damage, and an increasing number of studies have been conducted to discover safe, natural materials that can alleviate the oxidative stress and inflammation caused by PM. It has been previously shown that the extract of Ecklonia cava Kjellman, a perennial brown macroalga, can alleviate oxidative stress in epidermal keratinocytes exposed to PM less than 10 microns in diameter (PM10). The present study was undertaken to further examine the anti-inflammatory effects of E. cava extract and its major polyphenolic constituent, dieckol. HaCaT keratinocytes were exposed to PM10 in the presence or absence of E. cava extract or dieckol and analyzed for their viability, prostaglandin E 2 (PGE 2 ) release, and gene expression of cyclooxygenase (COX)-1, COX-2, microsomal prostaglandin E 2 synthase (mPGES)-1, mPGES-2, and cytosolic prostaglandin E 2 synthase (cPGES). PM10 treatment decreased cell viability and increased the production of PGE 2 , and these changes were partially abrogated by E. cava extract. E. cava extract also attenuated the expression of COX-1, COX-2, and mPGES-2 stimulated by PM10. Dieckol attenuated PGE 2 production and the gene expression of COX-1, COX-2, and mPGES-1 stimulated by PM10. This study demonstrates that E. cava extract and dieckol alleviate airborne PM10-induced PGE 2 production in keratinocytes through the inhibition of gene expression of COX-1, COX-2, mPGES-1, and/or mPGES-2. Thus, E. cava extract and dieckol are potentially useful natural cosmetic ingredients for counteracting the pro-inflammatory effects of airborne PM.

Antioxidants with antimelanogenic activity are potentially useful for the attenuation of skin hyperpigmentation disorders. In a previous study, luteolin 7-sulfate isolated from Phyllospadix iwatensis Makino, a marine plant, was shown to inhibit cellular melanin synthesis. The aim of the present study was to examine its action mechanism, focusing on the regulation of tyrosinase (TYR) expression in cells. Cell-based assay was undertaken using murine melanoma B16-F10 cells and primary human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs). Luteolin 7-sulfate showed lower toxicity compared to luteolin in B16-F10 cells. At the non-toxic concentration ranges, luteolin 7-sulfate attenuated melanin synthesis, stimulated by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone or forskolin. Luteolin 7-sulfate attenuated forskolin-induced microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and TYR expressions at the mRNA and protein levels in B16-F10 cells. It also attenuated the phosphorylation of cAMP-responsive element binding protein (CREB) stimulated by forskolin. Luteolin 7-sulfate also attenuated melanin synthesis in primary HEMs. This study demonstrates that luteolin 7-sulfate attenuates TYR gene expression through the intervention of a CREB- and MITF-mediated signaling pathway, leading to the decreased melanin synthesis.