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The objectives of this study were to evaluate the effect of line drying on smooth ness and stiffness of fabrics, to determine whether consumer acceptance of fabric appearance and hand is related to certain economic and attitudinal factors, and to evaluate changes in the laundering process that would optimize the appear ance and hand of line-dried fabrics. Smoothness and stiffness of fabrics were measured after machine, line, and modified line-drying treatments. Consumer participants rated the acceptability of fabric appearance and hand, and responded to questions about their attitudes toward energy conservation and environmental concern. In most cases, line-dried fabrics were significantly stiffer than machine- dried fabrics but were equally acceptable with respect to hand. Line drying re sulted in a more wrinkled appearance which was less acceptable than the ap pearance of machine-dried fabrics. Factors which were related to the acceptance of fabric appearance were knowledge of the cost of machine drying, the fastid iousness of the individual, and attitude toward conservation. Briefly tumbling previously line-dried fabrics in a machine dryer resulted in appearance and hand that would have been acceptable to most consumer participants while still saving energy.

The major objective of this study was to evaluate consumers' perception of color change in fabrics and to determine at what stage consumers judge the fabrics to be unacceptable for intended use because of color change. Colored fabrics representing varying amounts of col or change were shown to consumers at six different geographic locations. The majority of the consumers were able to perceive a color change equal to Step 4–5 on the Gray Scale for most samples. Color changes greater than Step 4 were not acceptable if the samples repre sented fabric in one garment. If the change was uniform throughout the garment, color changes up to Step 2 were acceptable to the consumer. There were no differences in the con sumers' perception or acceptance due to age or social status. There was some indication of differences in acceptance due to geographic locations.

In a wear study of polyesterlcotton durable-press trousers, the laundry process was found to cause approximately half of the total edge abrasion. No significant differences in amount of edge abrasion were found among trousers laundered by different methods. Laboratory studies using polyesterlcotton fabrics indicated that the least abrasion occurred when simulated cuff samples were washed wrong side out, with slow agitation speed, or with a shortened wash cycle. Studies using 100 percent cotton durable-press fabrics indicated that an increase in tumble drying time resulted in a significant increase in amount of edge abrasion. Turning samples wrong side out, shortening the wash period, and using slow agitation speed tended to reduce the amount of edge abrasion. Edge abrasion was evaluated by comparison of samples with photographic standards and examination of samples with the scanning electron microscope.

To assess the relationship between comfort and moisture transport properties of warm-up suit fabrics, a wear study was designed in which physiological and subjective measurements were obtained from subjects wearing warm-up suits under controlled conditions of exercise and environment. During the wear study, the subjects were under moderate heat stress in the warm environment and under no heat stress in the cool environment. Three fabrics were used in the study. Two of the fabrics were similar in thickness and insulative value but differed in ability to absorb and transport moisture. The other fabric had moisture properties that were similar to one of the above fabrics, but it was thinner and had a lower insulative value. Under cool environmental conditions the three fabrics provided similar levels of comfort. When the wearers were subjected to moderate heat stress, they were most comfortable when wearing either the thinnest fabric or the fabric which absorbed and transported the most moisture. Comparisons between the two fabrics with similar insulative values indicated that the under garments contained less moisture and the wearers felt drier when wearing the suit which had better moisture transport properties. Laboratory measurements of liquid transport and drop absorption were the best predictors of subjective eval uations of wetness and differences in the amounts of moisture in the garments when worn under conditions of moderate heat stress.

A model for quality grading of textile products was developed which included weaghtang fac tors based on the importance of end-use properties as perceived by consumers, standards based on laboratory measurements of these properties, and the expected wear-life of the product. Children's clothing was the textile product used in developing the model. A questionnaire was distributed to parents of nursery school and elementary school-age children to obtain the needed consumer input. In the questionnaire the consumers rated the importance of end-use properties for various categories of children's clothing, and indicated the expected wear-life of these items. Significant differences were found in the ratings of the importance of the end-use properties for each of the seven categories of clothing. The model for quality grading was then developed utilizing the data from the questionnaire. Also used in the model were laboratory measurements of the end-use properties and perfor mance standards. The desirability function was used to transform data from different labor atory measurements and performance standards into a single value. The model was then tested using four pairs of boys' jeans, similar in appearance but differing in price. The two lowest priced garments were found to be of the lowest grade, but the top-priced garment was the same grade as the next lower-priced garment.