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[Display omitted] • Dyeing hemp with a natural yellow colorant from Buddleja officinalis. • Comparative research between natural mordants and metallic ones under different mordanting methods. • Expanded environmental-friendly dyeing based on ethnobotanical application. • Provided a case study is to explore new natural dyes for textile industry through ethnobotanical insight. Natural dyes are more eco-friendly alternatives to synthetic dyes. This research focuses on natural dyes and improved dye craft using plants employed by various ethnic groups in Southwestern China. In this study, we assessed the suitability of dried extracts from Buddleja officinalis flowers for dyeing hemp fabric. and valuated indicators including color strength (K / S), color characteristics, and fastness properties in response to washing, rubbing, and perspiration using metallic and natural mordants under pre-, post-, and simultaneous mordanting conditions. Specifically, we investigated the pigment compound crocin by ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy and Fourier transform–infrared spectroscopy analysis before using it to dye hemp fabric. Optimum dyeing conditions including staining temperature, staining duration, and pH have been identified using an orthogonal array experimental design. Optimum results were achieved when dyeing at pH 5, and at 60 °C for 90 min. Hemp fabric dyed without mordant had a shade of yellowness, while fabric mordanted with gum rosin, plant ash, KAl(SO 4) 2 , and Chaenomeles speciosa had a variety of pale to dark yellowness color shades. A darker yellow–green color shade was obtained with FeSO 4 mordant. The color change of washing fastness was mostly very poor, while the color stain of washing and perspiration fastness were good to excellent, and rubbing fastness was also good to excellent. The color fastness was kept and improved by the three natural mordants, especially gum rosin and plant ash, but reduced by FeSO 4. Those results show that the use of aqueous extract from B. officinalis flowers combined with natural mordants represents a promising approach for textile dyeing, revealing an alternative method that could improve and extend the dyeing properties of this indigenous dye plant. In addition, our findings lay the foundation for further basic studies and demonstrate the utility of preserving natural dye plants, along with the related traditional knowledge of indigenous groups in Yunnan, China. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• The genetic variations of the wild and cultivated castor bean were demonstrated. • Chloroplast genomes are conserved with potential DNA barcoding regions. • Several non-synonymous mutations in conserved protein domains were identified. • Cultivars could be derived from multiple wild progenitors. The high usage of castor oil in industrial applications and bio-diesel production has led to an increase in castor bean (Ricinus communis L.) cultivation in many countries. Wild species present a source of genetic variation for germplasm improvement, often important because of their adaptation to a wide range of habitats and stresses. Chloroplast genomes are widely used in population genetics and evolutionary studies. Herein, we carried out plastome genome sequencing of 20 wild and cultivated castor bean accessions to examine plastome structural variations (PSVs). Further, single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) and insertions and deletions (InDels), were identified and plastome sequences used to infer phylogenetic relationships. All the chloroplast genomes were quadripartite, with a length between 162,673 bp and 163,210 bp, with 112 genes (78 protein coding genes; PCGs, 30 tRNAs, and four rRNAs). The chloroplast genomes where conserved in terms of structure and content, with no significant PSVs detected except for a slight inverted repeat (IR) contraction in one accession. A total of 162 SNPs and 92 InDels were uncovered across the plastomes, with an average SNP and InDel density of 0.99 and 0.56 per kb respectively. Some of the non-synonymous mutations caused amino acid changes in functional domains. Intergenic spacers trnE-UUC-trnT-GGU and AccD-psaI were identified as potential barcoding regions. The phylogenetic analyses and neighbor-joining network supported three distinct lineages in castor bean. Genetic diversity was greater in one clade than the other, with implications for identifying adaptive germplasm in the wild. These results demonstrate the genetic variations and phylogenetic relationships between the wild and cultivated lineages and add insights into the origin of cultivation and spread of castor bean. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]