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In order to search for new active cosmetic ingredients of natural origin, we screened about 60 plants collected from Jeju Island, which is located in the southernmost part of the Republic of Korea. We investigated their free radical scavenging activity, elastase inhibition activity, and reduction of MMP-1 mRNA expression for the development of anti-aging ingredients as raw materials for use in cosmetics. In the free radical scavenging capacity assay, 12 extracts, including Typha orientalis (seed) and Torreya nucifera (leaf), showed significant free radical scavenging activity (up to SC50 < 30 μg/ml). Among these extracts, Nymphaea tetragona (rhizome) extract showed the highest free radical scavenging activity (SC50 = 4.7 μg/ml). In the anti-elastase inhibition assay, seven extracts, including T. orientalis (seed) and Persicaria hydropiper (whole plant), showed high inhibitory activity (>50% at 100 μg/ml). Among these extracts, P. hydropiper (whole plant) extract showed the highest elastase inhibition activity (IC50 = 46.7 μg/ml). In the MMP-1 expression assay using RT-PCR, T. orientalis (seed), Pyrrosia hastata (root), and Capsicum annum (whole plant) showed slightly lower inhibition activity than EGCG, which was used as a control. Furthermore, four extracts, including P. hydropiper (whole plant), Filipendula glaberrima (root), N. tetragona (root), and Camellia japonica (leaf), completely inhibited the expression of MMP-1 in human fibroblast cells. The results showed that four of the 60 plant extracts may hold potential for use as natural active ingredients for anti-aging cosmetics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In Korea and China, Ulmus davidiana var. japonica has been used as a traditional oriental medicine for the treatment of difficulty in urination, skin inflammation, etc. In order to investigate the potential of a polysaccharide extract from Ulmus davidiana var. japonica as a cosmetic ingredient, we measured its moisturizing effect, photo-induced cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory effect. After hydrolysis, HPLC experiments showed that the composition of the polysaccharide extract was mainly rhamnose, galactose, and glucose. The molecular weight of the obtained Ulmus davidiana root extract was 20 000. The intrinsic viscosity was 90 dL/g. In a moisturizing test conducted through the measurement of water loss in a desiccator and of moisture content with a Corneometer CM820, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed almost the same moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid. In an assay for inhibition of the H2O2-activated release of PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8 in normal human fibroblast cell lines, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed an inhibitory activity of PGE2 release in a dose-dependent manner (up to 85.9% at a concentration of 0.1%). The percent inhibition of the release of IL-6 was in the range of 45.6–64.5% (H2O2 was used as the positive control). Moreover, the release of IL-8 was completely inhibited in the entire concentration range (>0.0025%). In a test of recovery from photo-induced damage after UVA irradiation (3 J/cm2), the cell recovery of human fibroblasts increased to levels two times higher than that of the positive control, which was UVA-damaged cells in the absence of Ulmus davidiana root extract (up to 60.2% at 3.0% of Ulmus davidiana root extract). In a photo-induced cytotoxicity assay in the presence of promethazine as a photosensitizer, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed approximately 48% of the increased cell viability of the control. Therefore, Ulmus davidiana root extract may be useful for the development of a cosmetic ingredient. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]