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Synopsis This paper attempts to systematize the preparation of cosmetic formulations by means of phase diagrams. The general criteria used to adapt the usually complex cosmetic systems to simple ternary diagrams W/O/S, consists of grouping the different ingredients according to their functional characteristics (hydrophilics, lipophilics and amphiphilics) that are located respectively in the corresponding vertices W, O and S. Thus, the polar ingredients are always incorporated simultaneously as a single phase, over the initial combinations O/S according to the classical titration procedure. Selective incorporation of the polar ingredients by means of the so-called double-titration procedures was studied. Independent consideration of the polar ingredients leads to modelling of the system in a regular tetrahedron in which the components are located at the four vertices. Several possibilities of double-titration procedures are considered in the tetrahedron depending on the different sequences of incorporating the polar ingredients. The results obtained show a critical influence of the double-titration procedures on two main aspects: limits of existence of the transparent gel realms, and rheological behaviour of some selected compositions. The different possibilities compared with the fixed characteristics obtained by the conventional method of preparation constitute an advantage in adapting a final formulation to the specific needs.

Synopsis Frequently, the incoporation of the polar phase, as a second step in the formulation of a cosmetic, is considered as a simple dilution process. This work shows the influence of the polar phase on the final formulation, according to its constitution as well as the method of incorporation. Modelling the system through a regular tetrahedron suggests alternative ways to the usual method of incorporation (direct titration with a polar phase with a given composition), based on selective incorporation of the polar ingredients (double titration procedures). Depending on the constitution of the polar phase, it is possible to obtain different kinds of formulations (gel, liquids, ...), and, depending on the different possibilities of incorporation of the polar ingredients, identical compositions can be formulated in terms of percentage of their components, but showing different rheological characteristics, allowing an adaptation to the required specific needs of formulation.

Synopsis Multicomponent gel formulations capable of assimilating, simultaneously, several active ingredients of potential application in the cosmetic field were studied. The possibility of formation of a transparent gel was determined using a method which consisted in the optimization of several lipophilic basic compositions, composed of oil, a mixture of surfactants, a sunscreen agent, several vitamins and antioxidants situated in the base of a regular tetrahedron that symbolized the considered system. To this, a polar phase made of water, a cosolvent and urea in appropriate proportions and situated in the fourth vertex, was progressively added. It may be concluded, that the use of phase diagrams on cosmetic systems, constitutes a useful way to select the components and their mutual ratios, allowing an adaptation to the specific requested conditions of formulation.

Synopsis Diffusion tests of anionic, amphoteric and mixtures of amphoteric/anionic surfactants have been performed using a collagen film. A sensitive potentiometric method has been developed to determine the surfactant diffused avoiding the interferences observed in the usual analytical measurements due to the simultaneous presence of amphoteric/anionic surfactants. From the results obtained it is evident that the surfactant mixtures exhibit a synergistic behaviour as there is a mutual inhibition of the surfactant diffused through the collagen film. Empirical equations have been derived to describe the diffusion process of both the individual surfactants and mixtures of surfactants which allow the diffusion of the individual surfactants and the inhibition of diffusion in mixtures to be quantified.

Synopsis From a dermatological point of view, it is important to know what is the irritation potential of surfactants on human skin. Recent research trends have been oriented towards the establishment of new 'in vitro' techniques that will avoid animal experimentation. In this paper, some results on the rate of diffusion of different anionic surfactants through both cellulose acetate and collagen membranes are described. A correlation between results of diffusion through the protein membrane and results published on the same surfactants and their irritation potential during 'in vivo' experiments appears possible.