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Wave conditions around islands in the South China Sea (SCS) are of significant interest due to their importance for marine operations and coastal engineering. Understanding and accurately predicting wave characteristics in this region are crucial. In this study, the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH III is employed to examine wave conditions around islands in the SCS. According to the water depth and significant wave height, the sea state around the island was classified into two categories: typhoon sea state and moderate sea state. Several popular wind input–dissipation source terms (ST2, ST4 and ST6) are used to assess the typhoon sea state and the moderate sea state separately. The results are validated by field wave data. ST4 and ST6 show good performance in significant wave height for moderate sea states, while ST2 is good at the mean wave period. For the typhoon sea state, ST2 gives the best results in significant wave height with larger correlation coefficients and a smaller RMSE. The above results provide valuable insights into the effects of different source terms on the accuracy of wave simulations for different sea states. The spatial distribution of the significant wave heights is also demonstrated with ST2, which may be useful for assessing the wave conditions of marine structures from the large scale of the SCS to the island scale of the Yongle Atoll.

The paper is devoted to further development of an accelerated method for simulation of the two-dimensional surface waves at infinite depth with the use of a two-dimensional model derived with simplifications of the three-dimensional equations for potential periodic deep-water waves. A 3D full wave model (FWM) is based on a numerical solution of a 3D Poisson equation written in the surface-fitted coordinates for a nonlinear component of the velocity potential. For sufficient vertical resolution used for the Poisson equation, the 3D model provides very high accuracy. The simplified model is based on the 2D Poisson equation written for a free surface. This exact equation contains both the first and second derivatives of the velocity potential, i.e., it is unclosed. The analysis of the accurate solutions for the 3D velocity potential obtained with the 3D model shows that those variables are linearly connected to each other. This property allows us to obtain a 2D equation for the first derivative of the velocity potential (i.e., vertical velocity on surface), which gives the closed 2D formulation for a 3D problem of two-dimensional waves. The previously developed scheme was not universal since the parameters of the closure scheme had to be adjusted to the specific setting. The current paper offers a new formulation of a closing scheme based on the integral parameters of wave field. The method of closing the equations, as well as the numerical parameters, were chosen on the basis of the multiple numerical experiments with the full nonlinear wave model (FWM) and selection of a suitable closing scheme. That is why the given model can be called Heuristic Wave Model (HWM). The connection between the first and second variables is not precise; hence, the method as a whole cannot be exact. However, the derived 2D model is able to reproduce different statistical characteristics of the 2D wave field with good accuracy. The main advantage of the model developed is its high performance exceeding that of 3D model by about two decimal orders.

The evolution of wind waves in coastal zones leads to changes in the shape of the wave spectrum. Along the coast of Kerala, due to the presence of mudbanks during the southwest monsoon, we could observe downshifting of the peak frequency in the wave spectral data. The present study aims at proving the mechanism of frequency downshifting and possible influence of the downshifting process on mudbank formation. The results of SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore) modeling and bispectral analysis shows that frequency downshifting occurs due to the difference nonlinear triad interactions of the main frequency peak of the wave spectrum with frequencies of the infragravity range independent of the viscosity of the medium. The increase in wave dissipation accelerates frequency downshifting additionally, decreasing the wave energy in the main peak frequency. It is shown that frequency downshifting can be one of the possible wave mechanisms of mudbank formation due to essentially different wave attenuation coefficients at the beginning and end of this process. For muddy cohesive sediments, it will lead to formation with an erosive profile at first and then an accumulative profile, i.e., mudbank formation.

In order to investigate the complex hydrodynamics and associated sediment movement resulting from the ship passages in heavy shipping traffic waterways, field measurements were performed in a heavy shipping traffic waterway. Based on the collected waves, flow velocity and water turbidity data, the analyses of the ship-induced hydrodynamics and associated sediment suspension phenomena were conducted. The low-frequency primary wave and high-frequency secondary wave were more pronounced for a barge and yacht in the wave structure, respectively, and contributed more to the flow velocity fluctuations and the bottom shear stress. The ship-induced bottom shear stress can cause significant suspended sediment concentration increase, and there is a correlation between the maximum suspended sediment concentration and maximum ship-induced drawdown height, which can provide a reference for the waterway management.

We perform a critical analysis of the present approach in wave modeling and of the related results. While acknowledging the good quality of the best present forecasts, we point out the limitations that appear when we focus on the corresponding spectra. Apart from the meteorological input, these are traced back to the spectral approach at the base of the present operational models, and the consequent approximations involved in properly modeling the various physical processes at work. Future alternatives are discussed. We then focus our attention on how, given the situation, to deal today with the estimate of the maximum wave heights, both in the long term and for a specific situation. For this, and within the above limits, a more precise evaluation of the wave spectrum is shown to be a mandatory condition.

Although there have been a number of studies investigating fundamental characteristics of infragravity waves in coastal zones, a proper method of deciding period ranges that are associated with gravity or infragravity waves remains uncertain. In this study, we proposed an empirical method of separating spectral energies of gravity and infragravity waves by analyzing the wave observation data acquired off Gyeongpo beach on the Korean east coast. The fundamental principle of the suggested method is to represent the separation period discriminating gravity and infragravity waves as a function of the significant wave period, rather than a fixed value that was conventionally applied in previous studies. As a consequence of using the new method, the relationships between heights and periods of gravity and infragravity waves were more clearly identified.