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An analysis of the run-up over different beach profiles is performed to evaluate the influence of the seabed shape on shore flooding. The analysis was carried out on the basis of numerical solutions of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The chosen solver was shown to provide reliable (both quantitatively and qualitatively) run-up results by comparing numerical solutions (of both solitary and regular waves) with the only available analytical solution forced by a localized topographic change. The run-up patterns on both a natural beach profile and three simpler and schematic profiles derived from it were evaluated. Different wave conditions (both random and groups) were used for a total amount of 96 different cases of inundation. Results are expressed in terms of both maximum () and steady-state () run-up. It is found that both types of run-up depend on the offshore variable , as suggested by several available studies, and that, for all tested cases, random waves induce the largest compared with the wave groups. The largest is induced by the composite-planar profile for both random waves and groups. An important similarity is found for both and induced by all wave types over the natural and equilibrium profiles, giving further support to the use of an equilibrium profile as representative of the natural profile. Attempts at finding an equivalent planar beach highlight unavoidable difficulties in choosing such a profile and reinforce the idea that the concept of an equivalent planar beach cannot bridge dynamics occurring from the depth of closure to the run-up. More likely, such a concept is only suitable to describe dynamics that are local to the foreshore. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The working features of innovative coastal defense structures that can dissipate the energy of incoming waves by the action of large-scale bottom unevennesses (rigid blades covering the lower half of the water depth) were investigated by means of a laboratory experimental campaign. The goal of the study was to characterize the ability of the structures to efficiently reduce the wave height with a minimal change in the mean water superelevations. Similar wave height reductions were achieved for both vertical and inclined blades; their efficiency was slightly superior to that of traditional submerged rubble-mound breakwaters of the same cross-shore extension. For the incident waves examined, very low mean water elevations were observed inshore of the structures, with the inclined blades producing the smallest values. These results suggest that the structures analyzed here could represent an alternative to submerged rubble-mound breakwaters from a hydrodynamic point of view to protect coastlines prone to erosion with minimal risk of dangerous rip currents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A comparative assessment of available formulae for the water setup inshore of submerged breakwaters is made on the basis of a wide and varied dataset derived from basin and flume laboratory experiments. Formulae derived from a simplified view which does not account for the horizontal flow circulation provide a large overestimate (up to one order of magnitude) of the smaller setup values. A much better overall approximation of the measured data is obtained through formulae that consider the setup as part of a complete flow description, be it partially or fully accounting for the horizontal flow motion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]