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The majority of works about vine-canes are focused on the evaluation of their chemical composition and antioxidant potential. To the best of our knowledge, the possible applications of produced extracts in cosmetic formulations have never been explored. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the antioxidant properties of vine-canes subcritical water extracts for use as active ingredients in the cosmetic industry. For that, the phenolic content and antioxidant activity of six vine-cane varieties, namely Alvarinho and Loureiro from the Minho region and Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz (TR) from both the Douro and Dão regions, were evaluated through spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods. All extracts presented similar antioxidant activity and the highest phenolic content was reported for TR variety from the Douro region (33.7 ± 1.9 mg GAE/g dw). The capacity of vine-cane extracts to capture reactive oxygen species superoxide (O2∙−) was also studied, with the highest IC50 value being obtained for Loureiro variety (56.68 ± 2.60 µg/mL). Furthermore, no adverse effects on HaCaT and HFF-1 dermal cell lines in concentrations below 100 and 1000 μg/mL, respectively, were determined. Finally, Loureiro vine-cane extract was incorporated into a topical formulation, and physical and microbiological properties were within expected values, demonstrating that vine-canes extracts can be successfully incorporated in cosmetic products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Wine production generates large amounts of vine-canes, a devalued by-product that could be used for the recovery of bioactive compounds. In this work, two vine-canes varieties, namely Touriga Nacional (TN) and Tinta Roriz (TR), were submitted to different ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions. The highest phenolic and flavonoid content was observed for TR extract obtained at lab-scale without an ice bath and pilot-scale after 60 min of extraction (32.6 ± 2.1 and 26.0 ± 1.5 mg gallic acid equivalent/g dry weight (dw) and 9.5 ± 0.6 and 8.3 ± 0.8 mg epicatechin equivalents/g dw, respectively). Further, all extracts demonstrated a high antioxidant activity to scavenge DPPH free radicals with the best value reached by TR at the lab-scale without an ice bath after 30 min and pilot-scale extraction after 60 min (34.2 ± 2.4 and 33.4 ± 2.1 mg trolox equivalents/g dw, respectively). Extracts phenolic composition were also evaluated by HPLC, demonstrating that resveratrol, myricetin and catechin were the main compounds. According to our knowledge, this is the first time that a pilot scale of UAE of phenolic compounds from vine-canes was performed. This paper represents an important step to the use of UAE as an industrial process to recover bioactive compounds. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]