County Wicklow, Ireland OUTSIDE Sinead O'Connor's whitewashed home here, on a windswept beachfront overlooking the misty Irish Sea, there are two talismans. One, a knee-high statue of the Virgin Mary stands with her arms beatifically spread, silently welcoming visitors. The other, a crudely taped-up sign, written so emphatically in ballpoint that the paper is almost torn through, is directed at the reporters who have besieged the singer, her four children, three dogs and a cat in recent weeks. It reads: ''Dearest loving hacks. This is your quote: Rock 'n' Roll!'' [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]