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Chlorogenic acid is a natural potent antioxidant. It can be used in cosmetics formulations, but for this purpose its photochemical stability should be determined to ensure that the compound will not be degraded after UV radiation exposure. To evaluate this possibility, the concentration of a chlorogenic acid solution was determined by HPLC before and after UVA and UVB irradiation.The results indicate that chlorogenic acid is not degraded under UVA or UVB irradiation.

Exposure to UV radiation up-regulates the synthesis of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), a group of matrix-degrading enzymes. MMPs are regarded as promising therapeutic targets and the development of effective inhibitors is an important research focus. The plant Pothomorphe umbellata has been shown to exert a potent antioxidant activity on the skin and to delay the onset and reduce the incidence of UVB-induced chronic skin damage. The aim of the present study was to determine the effect of P. umbellata ethanolic root extract on MMP-2 and MMP-9. The in vitro inhibition of MMP-2 and MMP-9 was measured by gelatin zymography in the presence of different concentrations of P. umbellata extract, as well as in the presence of its isolated active principle 4-nerolidylcatechol (4-NC). The inhibitory effect of the P. umbellata extract was stronger than that of 4-NC. Gelatin zymography and histological analysis revealed that P. umbellata was able to inhibit constitutive MMP-9 activity in vivo in mice sacrificed 2 h after UVB irradiation. The intensity of the MMP-2 band was unchanged. Our data contribute to the elucidation of the mechanism of prevention of photoaging by P. umbellata and may provide a rational basis for the use of this plant in prophylaxis against and treatment of skin cancer.

In this work we evaluated the influence of topical application of P. umbellata root extract gel, containing 0.1% of 4-nerolidylcathecol, on the antioxidant network in UV-induced oxidative damage in hairless mouse skin. The UV-irradiation had no influence on ascorbic acid levels or on the antioxidant enzyme (superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione reductase and glutathione peroxidase) activities, but topical P. umbellata treatment protected α-tocopherol from being depleted after UV-irradiation. α-Tocopherol concentration decreased significantly (≈40%, P 0.05). These data demonstrate that P. umbellata may be successfully used as a topical photoprotective agent.