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The article deals with the issues of “responsible” design of eco-linens made of natural fibers. Based on the analysis, the influence of the stiffness of fabrics on their technological and consumer properties was established. The influence of the type of weaving of linen fabrics on the bending stiffness has been established. It is shown that the dependences of the warp and weft stiffness indices on the weave coefficients are linear. The power-law dependence of the coefficients of stiffness of the fabric on the coefficients of the connection of threads in the weave is revealed. A qualitative substantiation of the nature of the obtained dependences is given. It is proposed to predict the stiffness of flax-cotton fabrics according to the characteristics of the weave on the basis of the cohesiveness coefficient of the threads in the weave and the weave coefficient. The results of the study allow designing fabrics with the required stiffness indicators.

The article presents the results of studies of the rigidity of the structure of linen fabrics by an automated method for determining the shear characteristics, which allows implement changes in the angles between the warp and weft threads and a graphical record of the process of thread shear and recovery after shear by means of specially developed software. A method implemented by a specially developed computer program Neuro-Prognosis has been developed for forecasting. An example of predicting the rigidity of the structure of linen fabrics by the characteristics of their structure is given.