Search

In the context of developing a new natural product-based cosmetic, the in vitro efficacy and safety evaluations of a complex botanical mixture based on Eugenia dysenterica leaf hydroalcoholic extract (EDE) (2.5-1000μg/mL) were carried out. Chromatographic analysis demonstrated the presence of the tannin (ellagic acid) and flavonoids (quercetin and gallic acid) which characterize the EDE as a polyphenol-rich mixture. Using HFF-1 fibroblasts, it was shown that EDE promoted cell regeneration after UVA exposure. It also led to the inhibition of the collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase enzymes, which are involved in skin-related disorders. In terms of toxicological evaluation, the EDE was classified as non-phototoxic through the 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake Phototoxicity Test (OECD N° 432, 2004) and non-eye irritant by Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability (OECD N° 437, 2013) assay, in conjunction with corneal histomorphometric analysis. Furthermore, the EDE has no skin sensitization potential as demonstrated by a two-out-of-three prediction model [protein-binding/haptenization (OECD N° 442C, 2015), keratinocyte and dendritic cell activations]. In addition, it was shown that the EDE seems to be non-genotoxic through the cytokinesis-block micronucleus assay (OECD N° 487, 2014) using HepG2 cells. When considered together, these findings support the use of EDE botanical mixture in cosmetic/pharmaceutical products.

Different models of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) are currently validated to assess skin irritation in vitro and ultimately to the animal replacement of the Draize test. The development of a new RHE model is a challenge for many laboratories, representing a potential gain of autonomy and improvement of technological knowledge. The Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) encourages the development of new models and, for this purpose, offers a thorough guideline on quality control parameters (OECD TG 439 performance standards). This work aimed to develop an RHE model (i.e. USP-RHE) for in vitro skin irritation assays, following the OECD TG 439. The developed model presents a well-differentiated epidermis similar to the Validated Reference Methods (VRM) and to native human epidermis. Quality parameters, i.e. optical density of negative control, tissue integrity and barrier function, were similar to VRM and in accordance with OECD TG 439. Moreover, the USP-RHE model was shown to have 85,7% of specificity (6/7), 100% of sensitivity (6/6) and 92,3% of accuracy (12/13) when compared to in vivo UN GHS classification. The within-laboratory reproducibility was 92.3% (12/13). Thus, we demonstrated that USP-RHE model attends to all OECD TG 439 performance standards and is ready to be used by private and public laboratories and companies for future validation studies.