Search

This article discusses a study which examined the application of the density gradient tube method to the identification of cloth and paper ash. The use of comparison gradient tubes, each of which contains one of the samples being compared, requires that the gradients be established so as to be as nearly identical as possible. This necessitates that each of the various liquid levels be added to heights which are very precisely identical. This is made difficult by drainage of liquid from the walls after adjusting each meniscus. Also, the addition of each of the liquid increments to each tube by pipet is slow and causes inhalation of vapors which is disagreeable and possibly detrimental to health. In the study, the samples were not weighed as has been customary with soil and other heterogeneous samples. An alternative which was essentially as satisfactory and much more rapid was to construct a small scoop which could be loaded quite reproducibly. Into each gradient tube was placed one scoopful of tube sample, thus approximating a uniform volume rather than a uniform weight of the various samples. It was found quite simple to reproduce the appearance of duplicate samples of the same ash, while the differences between different ashes was in no way affected.

The article discusses the dynamic mechanical properties of yarns in water. The behaviour of a textile material during laundering covers several aspects, such as shrinkage, colour-fastness to washing or boiling water, wear due to laundering, pleat retention, and ceasing caused by laundering both in boiling water and at lower temperatures. On the principle that the dynamic mechanical properties of textile yarns in the wet and dry states could be a basis for a study of the creasing behaviour of garments during laundering, a relation was sought between the characteristic temperatures of these properties and the critical washing temperature.

Maintenance of thermal comfort at high activity levels under both hot and cold weather conditions depends on diffusion of Water vapor through textile systems. A maximum of approximately one liter per hour of moisture is available to the average man for evaporative cooling, which is equivalent to a maximum heat loss of 333 kcal/m² hr. However, the amount of heat dissipated in this manner may be limited by clothing, which impedes convective evaporation. Water vapor transfer is thus an important property to be evaluated in military clothing. This paper discusses several methods for measuring the moisture vapor transmission of textile fabrics and proposes mathematical models to predict moisture vapor transmission in terms of simple, readily available fabric geometric properties. One model was based upon a commonly accepted perforated plate theory which considers the fabric as a perforated structure in which moisture vapor diffuses partly through the interyarn spaces and partly through the "non-perforated" areas of the fabric. The other model considered the fabric as a relatively uniform mixture of fiber and air, a valid assumption for most functional, tightly woven military fabrics. In this model, resistance to diffusion was considered as the sum of the air space and "fiber space" resistance over the entire fabric area. This latter model, With a slight adjustment of the film transmission factor, predicted the resistance of a number of cotton and nylon fabrics as measured experimentally. Thus moisture vapor transport capability, and therefore comfort of a fabric at a specified ambient temperature and humidity, can be predicted if the fabric areal density and thickness are known. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The American housewife, who washes an average of a load of clothes every day, represents one of the largest processers of textile products. Although washing machines and dryers are not generally considered as textile processing units, what occurs within them can greatly affect customer satisfaction. This paper describes the modern range of laundering units. The problems of adequately cleaning a garment without damaging it are discussed in relation to polyester blends and detergent formulations, as well as machine design. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper suggests possible implications of a study of clothing fashion leadership for current sociological theory in regard to the process of fashion diffusion. Theory of the diffusion of innovations was chosen as the framework for the investigation. Fashion innovativeness and fashion opinion leadership were studied in relation to selected social, psychological, and economic variables. Since the test of collective selection occurs in the local social system it would seem appropriate that theories regarding the operation of the fashion process account more fully for the rate and degree of acceptance and rejection of innovations in the local social system, and for the functions of local participants in the process. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper is an invitation to sociologists to take seriously the topic of fashion. Only a handful of scholars, such as Simmel (1904), Sapir (1931), and the Langs (1961), have given more than casual concern to the topic. Their individual analyses of it, while illuminating in several respects, have been limited in scope, and within the chosen limits very sketchy. The treatment of the topic by sociologists in general, such as we find it in textbooks and in occasional pieces of scholarly writing, is even more lacking in substance. The major deficiencies in the conventional sociological treatment are easily noted—a failure to observe and appreciate the wide range of operation of fashion; a false assumption that fashion has only trivial or peripheral significance; a mistaken idea that fashion falls in the area of the abnormal and irrational and thus is out of the mainstream of human group life; and, finally, a misunderstanding of the nature of fashion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper is concerned with the theory of pro-ignition temperature-time history in a system consisting of a dry fabric, an air gap and human skin which has been subjected to a radiant heat source. The system resembles the case of a person wearing a single garment. The fabric is subjected to a heat source and the time taken to ignite the fabric, as Well as for the skin to feel pain, are calculated along with detailed temperature profiles. Numerical solutions are obtained for this mathematical model and limited comparison made With some simple experiments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper recognizes the need for fabrics that are less flammable and describes criteria normally employed to evaluate flammability characteristics—ease of ignition, rate of burning, ease of extinguishment, types and amounts of smoke and toxic gas generation, thermal shrinkage, thermal insulation ability, and integrity of material at and during the time of heat and fire exposure. Fire-resisting properties of Nomex, Durette, Fypro, FRL-T-fibers, Kynol and PBI fiber are reviewed, and the performances of some of them exposed in garment form to a burning jet fuel fire are reported. Regular and modified PBI fabrics and the modified aromatic polyamlde fabrics are reported to show great promise for use in protective clothing. Their potential for general apparel and home furnishings is also considered. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article compares the consumption level of urban households in Japan and China during the mid-1950's. Tables are presented on the composition of consumption expenditures by major groups and on the per capita consumption in quantities for some commodities. Food expenditures are higher in China than in Japan. The clothing consumption in China is mainly composed of clothes for which Japanese prices are relatively low compared with prices of suits and other clothing. Finally, the rates with Chinese expenditure weights are higher than the official exchange rage while the rate with Japanese expenditure weights is nearly equal to the official exchange rates.

Thermoplastic polymer systems are used in the manufacture of fusible interlining fabrics. Every thermoplastic has its advantages and limitations as a fusible polymer. The proper choice of a system depends on the performance requirement from the fused composite structure in the garment. Some of the criteria used are: dry-cleanability, washability, bond strength, strike-through and strike-back potential and hand of the fused garment. Most of these properties can be correlated to the characteristics of the outer or face fabric (fabric finish, fiber blends, type and openness of weave, fabric weight), interlining fabric and the thermoplastic fusible polymer system. This paper discusses the advantages and limitations of various thermoplastic fusible polymer systems, process variables requiring special considerations in manufacture of fusible interlining fabrics, and the interactions of these fusible polymers in the fused composite structure in the garment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article reports that the Fashion Institute of Technology has been presented the Adele and Wesley Simpson Collection of Fashions and Textiles, a collection that took more than 50 years to assemble. The collection consists of books related to fashion and textile design, dolls in native costumes, military uniforms, millinery, many kinds of men's and women's garments, sketches, paintings, and graphics. The presentation of the gift was made at a meeting of the board of directors of the Educational Foundation for the Fashion Industries.

Copyright of Rural Sociology is the property of Wiley-Blackwell and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

An account is given of a microscopical study of the behaviour of water-soluble substances (salt arid sugar) on wool fibres when they are immersed in charged or batch dry-cleaning liquors. The effects observed depended on the water contents of liquor and fibre, but aqueous drops commonly grew around the dirt that dissolved in them; these then decreased in size and disappeared. Salt did not appear to build up in the charged liquor but was transferred from regions of the wool with a high salt content to regions containing less salt. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The pursuit of public preferences in the field of style and fashion is a fascinating sport. Equally exciting can be the search for psychological principles connecting liking with not city and familiarity. A report of experiments conducted to discover such principles and, appropriately, suggestions for a design for an ideal experiment is presented in this article. The subject of consumer taste has proved an elusive one for social scientists and businessmen alike. But while the latter energetically pursue the public on a day-to-day basis with ever new baubles and gadgets, the social sciences have for the most part confined their interest to, broad and distant view and only rarely descended to research on the specific processes of taste formation. For students of public opinion the particular process of familiarization has special relevance in view of their concern with the new, if not in products then certainly in ideas. Too often in the past, furthermore, explanations for public acceptance or rejection of the new have wandered without restraint between such commonplaces as "Repetition equals reputation," and "Familiarity breeds contempt."

In March 1967, a discovery of some sociological importance was made by the American public, in a run-down section of San Francisco, California, the Haight-Ashbury district, it was reported that there were upwards of 15,000 young people, mostly of middle-class parentage, who had purportedly dropped out of American society, and who were actively engaged in fostering an alternative mode of existence. Media reportage of the phenomenon soon made it clear that these young people dressed flamboyantly, wore flowers in their hair, took significant doses of relatively unknown psychedelic drugs, engaged in a large degree of sexual freedom, based their lives on a love ethic, and supposedly rejected all that contemporary America stood for, both materially and ideologically. Since its initial discovery in 1967, it has been commented on some length by both the mass media and social scientists, and its personal effect on a great many youth of today is patently obvious in terms of both behavioural and belief patterns.

The article reports on the illustrative materials and equipments for the presentation of the study on the clothing preferences of children. The stimulus variables were presented as an interview questionnaire with accompanying illustrations from which the subjects were asked to make their selections. The most visible method of presenting illustrative material for such a study would be the use of actual garments in various hues, brightness levels, saturation levels, styles, and others. An alternative method would be the use of an artist's illustrations of the actual garments.

This paper describes the use of nylon sleeves as a covering for calendering rolls. Both the advantages and disadvantages of these sleeves are presented, as well as conditions under which they may be successfully used and instructions for their care. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Polyester presents printers with problems unlike those posed by other man-made fibers. Suggestions are given for improving the quality of polyester prints, including choices of dyes, thickeners, carriers, fixation and aftertreatment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]