1. The speed of breaking waves controls sea surface drag
- Author
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Ayet, Alex, Chapron, Bertrand, Sutherland, Peter, and Katul, Gabriel G.
- Subjects
Physics - Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics ,Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics (physics.ao-ph) ,Fluid Dynamics (physics.flu-dyn) ,FOS: Physical sciences ,Physics - Fluid Dynamics ,Physics::Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics - Abstract
The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length does not directly correspond to a measurable physical quantity of the wind-and-wave system. Here, to go beyond this representation, we formalize ideas underlying the Beaufort scale by quantifying the velocity of breaking short waves that are the most coupled to near-surface wind. This velocity increases with wind speed, reflecting the fact that stronger winds can be visually identified by longer (and faster) breakers becoming predominant on the sea surface. A phenomenological turbulence model further shows that this velocity is associated with breaking waves that impede the most the formation of turbulent eddies. Scales of such eddies are then constrained inside a so-called roughness sub-layer. Unlike previous theoretical developments, the proposed breaker velocity is a directly measurable quantity, which could be used to characterize the coupling between wind and waves using remote sensing techniques. This work provides a physical framework for new formulations of air-sea momentum exchange in which the effects of surface currents and slicks on surface drag can also be incorporated. Finally, it provides a long-sought physical explanation for the Beaufort scale: a universal link between wave breaking, wind speed and surface drag., Comment: 21 pages, 9 figures
- Published
- 2021
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