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Acne is an inflammatory skin disease of the pilosebaceous unit, involving four essential factors: hyperseborrhoea combined to a modification of sebum composition, colonization by Cutibacterium (C.) acnes, hyperkeratinization and secreted inflammation. Understanding and mimicking compromised skin is essential to further develop appropriate therapeutic solutions. This study aimed to develop new in vitro 3D models mimicking acneic skin, by combining two main factors involved in the physiopathology, namely, altered sebum composition and C. acnes invasion. Normal human keratinocytes were first used to generate reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) that were then left untreated (control) or treated topically with a combination of both peroxidized squalene and C. acnes cultures. Once validated, this model considered relevant to mimic acneic skin, was further improved by using different phylotypes of C. acnes strains specifically isolated from healthy and acneic patients. While both phylotypes IB and II did not significantly alter RHE, C. acnes IA1 strains induce major acneic skin hallmarks such as hyperkeratinization, secreted inflammation and altered barrier function. Interestingly, these results are obtained independently of the origin of IA1 phylotypes (acneic vs. healthy patient), thus suggesting a role of the ecosystem in controlling C. acnes virulence in healthy skin. In conclusion, by combining two major factors involved in the physiopathology of acne, we (1) succeeded to design in vitro 3D models mimicking this skin disorder and (2) highlighted how C. acnes phylotypes can have an impact on epidermal physiology. These relevant models will be suitable for the substantiation of therapeutic molecules dedicated to acne treatment.

Anti-apoptotic Bfl-1 and pro-apoptotic Bax, two members of the Bcl-2 family sharing a similar structural fold, are classically viewed as antagonist regulators of apoptosis. However, both proteins were reported to be death inducers following cleavage by the cysteine protease µ-calpain. Here we demonstrate that calpain-mediated cleavage of full-length Bfl-1 induces the release of C-terminal membrane active α-helices that are responsible for its conversion into a pro-apoptotic factor. A careful comparison of the different membrane-active regions present in the Bfl-1 truncated fragments with homologous domains of Bax show that helix α5, but not α6, of Bfl-1 induces cell death and cytochrome c release from purified mitochondria through a Bax/Bak-dependent mechanism. In contrast, both helices α5 and α6 of Bax permeabilize mitochondria regardless of the presence of Bax or Bak. Moreover, we provide evidence that the α9 helix of Bfl-1 promotes cytochrome c release and apoptosis through a unique membrane-destabilizing action whereas Bax-α9 does not display such activities. Hence, despite a common 3D-structure, C-terminal toxic domains present on Bfl-1 and Bax function in a dissimilar manner to permeabilize mitochondria and induce apoptosis. These findings provide insights for designing therapeutic approaches that could exploit the cleavage of endogenous Bcl-2 family proteins or the use of Bfl-1/Bax-derived peptides to promote tumor cell clearance.