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Estrogens in personal care products are harmful to customers. Conventional methods such as HPLC and LC-MS require tedious sample pretreatment and long analytical time. Paper-spray ionization mass spectrometry (PSI-MS) is a powerful tool for the determination of compounds with little time and minimal pretreatment procedures. Since most estrogens show poor responses in PSI-MS, we developed a chemical derivatization and PSI-MS method to determinate three estrogens: estradiol, estriol and ethinyloestradiol with estradiol valerate as the internal standard (I.S.). After derivatization with 2-fluoro-1-methyl-pyridinium-p-toluene-sulfonate, the three estrogens could be quantified in seconds. This method showed good linearity in the range of 0.1~30 μg·mL -1 , with R 2 > 0.999. Their recovery results were all between 85%~115%. The limits of detection (LOD) were 0.04 μg·mL -1 , 0.02 μg·mL -1 and 0.02 μg·mL -1 for estradiol, estriol and ethinyloestradiol respectively, which improved around 200, 2000, and 900 times compared to non-derivative PSI-MS. The method could quantitatively determine estrogens in cosmetics.

Here, a simple and portable paper-based analytical device (PAD) based on the inherent capability of carbon quantum dots (CQDs) to serve as a great emitter for the bis(2,4,6-trichlorophenyl)oxalate (TCPO)-hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) chemiluminescence (CL) reaction is introduced for the detection of harmful mercury ions (Hg 2+ ). The energy is transferred from the unstable reaction intermediate (1,2-dioxetanedione) to CQDs, as acceptors, and an intensive orange-red CL emission is generated at ~600 nm, which is equal to the fluorescence emission wavelength of CQDs. The analytical applicability of this system was examined for the determination of Hg 2+ . It was observed that Hg 2+ could significantly quench the produced emission, which can be attributed to the formation of a stable and nonluminescent Hg 2+ -CQDs complex. Accordingly, a simple and rapid PAD was established for monitoring Hg 2+ , with a limit of detection of 0.04 μg ml -1 . No interfering effect on the signal was found from other examined cations, indicating the acceptable specificity of the method. The designed assay was appropriately utilized to detect Hg 2+ ions in cosmetic samples with high efficiency. It was characterized by its low cost, ease of use, and was facile but accurate and high selective for the detection of Hg 2+ ions. In addition, the portability of this probe makes it suitable for on-site screening purposes., (© 2022 John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

The greatest challenge for European drug policies is how to effectively respond to the dynamic and constantly changing market for new psychoactive substances (NPS). Even small modifications in the chemical structure of substances often allow circumventing existing laws. Also in prison, the consumption of NPS is rising and there is growing evidence that NPS are responsible for a large share of drug-related problems. Ion mobility spectrometry (IMS) is the technique of choice for trace analysis of illicit drugs or explosives at security points, for example airports. Currently, databases of the reduced mobility (K 0 ) values are limited to classical drugs and should be completed with data of emerging NPS. In this article, K 0 values, LODs (0.7-3.6 ng) and drift times of 25 synthetic cannabinoids were evaluated. The data were added to existing databases of IMS which were then applied for fast screening in prison. The detection capability of the portable IMS technique was evaluated by the determination of intra-day (0.089%) and inter-day precision (0.004% to 0.14%), systematic error (0.19%), and separation capability for structurally related NPS. The applicability of the methodology was demonstrated by the successful analysis of 12 different pieces of paper impregnated with synthetic cannabinoids, 7 different cosmetics, and 5 food samples (liquids), spiked with a mixture of narcotic drugs and a synthetic cannabinoid. In addition, 14 herbal mixtures and 36 different casework samples from prisons were analyzed provided by the State Office of Criminal Investigation Rhineland-Palatinate (Germany)., (© 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)

A fast methodology for the assay of parabens in drug and cosmetic preparations has been presented. The procedure developed is based on paper spray tandem mass spectrometry and isotope dilution approach. For each investigated paraben, the corresponding labeled standard has been used in order to improve the accuracy and reproducibility of the analyses. The MS experiments have been performed under MRM conditions, monitoring the transitions [M-H] - → m/z 92 and [M-H] - → m/z 98, respectively, for each analyte and the corresponding labeled internal standard. The quantitative assay has been performed using a calibration curve built from 2 to 15 mg/L. The method accuracy, in all case near 100%, was evaluated using fortified samples at two concentration levels, which are representative of the lower and the higher portion of calibration curve. The good values of LOQ, LOD, and reproducibility confirm the consistency of the developed approach., (© 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)

Rationale: A reactive paper spray mass spectrometric approach for rapid analysis of formaldehyde (FA) in cosmetics was developed based on an on-line derivatization reaction between formaldehyde and dansyl hydrazine (DH)., Methods: The whole experimental procedure consists of three simple steps: (1) load the sample (2 μL) onto the paper; (2) add the spray solvent (10 μL DH); (3) apply a high voltage (+4.5 kV) to the sample. We used an internal standard (dansyl amide) to create the analytical calibration curve. The established approach has been successfully applied in the quantitation of FA in facial masks., Results: Our approach shows good linearity for the FA concentrations between 3 and 300 μg L -1 , and the limit of detection is at 0.8 μg L -1 . Five brands of facial masks were analyzed by this approach without any sample pretreatment, and the FA contents varied from 0.05 to 2.6 mg L -1 with favorable recoveries achieved between 93.2% and 111.3%., Conclusions: This established approach presents a solution to rapid quantitation at extremely low cost of consumables and has potential as a simple, sensitive and robust strategy for the direct analysis of FA in cosmetics, food, environmental, and biological samples., (© 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)

Estrogens in personal care products are harmful to customers. Conventional methods such as HPLC and LC-MS require tedious sample pretreatment and long analytical time. Paper-spray ionization mass spectrometry (PSI-MS) is a powerful tool for the determination of compounds with little time and minimal pretreatment procedures. Since most estrogens show poor responses in PSI-MS, we developed a chemical derivatization and PSI-MS method to determinate three estrogens: estradiol, estriol and ethinyloestradiol with estradiol valerate as the internal standard (I.S.). After derivatization with 2-fluoro-1-methyl-pyridinium-p-toluene-sulfonate, the three estrogens could be quantified in seconds. This method showed good linearity in the range of 0.1~30 μg·mL−1, with R2 > 0.999. Their recovery results were all between 85%~115%. The limits of detection (LOD) were 0.04 μg·mL−1, 0.02 μg·mL−1 and 0.02 μg·mL−1 for estradiol, estriol and ethinyloestradiol respectively, which improved around 200, 2000, and 900 times compared to non-derivative PSI-MS. The method could quantitatively determine estrogens in cosmetics.

Xenoestrogens exert antiandrogenic effects on the human androgen receptor. In the analytical field, such antagonists block the detection of testosterone and falsify results obtained by sum parameter assays. Currently, such agonistic versus antagonistic effects are not differentiated in complex mixtures. Oppositely acting hormonal effects present in products of everyday use can only be differentiated after tedious fractionation and isolation of the individual compounds along with subjection of each fraction/compound to the status quo bioassay testing. However, such long-lasting procedures are not suited for routine. Hence, we developed a fast bioanalytical tool that figures out agonists versus antagonists directly in complex mixtures. Exemplarily, 8 cosmetics and 15 thermal papers were analyzed. The determined antagonistic potentials of active compounds found were comparable to the ones of known antagonists (in reference shown for bisphenol A, 4-n-nonylphenol and four parabens). Relevant biological/chromatographic parameters such as cell viability, culture conditions, dose response curves, limits of biological detection/quantification and working range (shown for testosterone, dihydrotestosterone, nandrolone and trenbolone) were investigated to obtain the best sensitivity of the biological detection. The developed and validated method was newly termed reversed phase high-performance thin-layer chromatography planar yeast ant-/agonistic androgen screen (RP-HPTLC-pYAAS bioassay). Results were also compared with the RP-HPTLC-Aliivibrio fischeri bioassay (applied on RP plates for the first time). As proof-of-concept, the transfer to another bioassay (RP-HPTLC-pYES) was successfully demonstrated, analogously termed RP-HPTLC-pYAES bioassay detecting anti-/estrogens (exemplarily shown for evaluation of 4 pharmaceuticals used in breast cancer treatment). The new imaging concept provides (1) detection and differentiation of individual agonistic versus antagonistic effects in the bioprofiles, (2) bioanalytical quantification of their activity potential by scanning densitometry and (3) characterization of unknown bioactive compound zones by hyphenation to high-resolution mass spectrometry. Depending on the hormonal bioassay, 15 samples were analyzed in parallel within 5 h or 6 h (calculated as 20 or 24 min per sample). For the first time, piezoelectric spraying of the yeast cells was successfully demonstrated for the planar yeast-based bioassays., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2020 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Rapid detection of harmful estrogens in cosmetics is essential in protecting public health. To reduce time-consuming pretreatment and analytical procedures, a novel reactive paper spray ionization mass spectrometry (RPSI-MS) methodology was developed. RPSI-MS is suitable for quantitatively analyzing estrogens in cosmetics by utilizing an online derivatization reaction between estrogens and 2-fluoro-1-methyl-pyridinium-p-toluene-sulfonate (FluMP). Using estradiol valerate as the internal standard (I.S.), three estrogens, estradiol, estriol, and ethinyloestradiol, in cosmetics were quantitatively characterized within minutes. Multiple parameters were optimized including FluMP concentration and volume, triethylamine amount as well as the drying time. The three estrogens displayed good linearity ranging from 0.002 to 1 μg/mL, with R2 above 0.99. The recovery results of all the estrogens were within 80~111%. The limit of detection (LOD) was 0.001 μg/mL for the three estrogens. Compared to conventional paper spray ionization mass spectrometry (PSI-MS), extraction is not required and the detection sensitivity of RPSI-MS was improved by 34,000, 80,000, and 1400 times for estradiol, estriol, and ethinyloestradiol, respectively. The protocol established in this paper is sensitive, eco-friendly, and suitable for rapid testing of estrogens in cosmetics.

Background: Paper mulberry is one of the most common skin-lightening agents in the beauty industry due to its strong anti-tyrosinase activity. This narrative review aims to summarize the chemical composition, biological activities, and applications of paper mulberry in cosmetics. Method: The literature for this article was acquired from the PubMed, Web of Science, and Google Scholar databases before September 2022. The keywords for searching included "paper mulberry", "Broussonetia papyrifera", "skin-lightening", "skin-whitening", "depigmentation", "pharmacological activity", and "biological activity". Results: Paper mulberry consists of various components, including flavonoids, tannins, alkaloids, phenols, saponins, coumarins, glycosides, and polysaccharides, which possess a wide range of pharmacological properties. Apart from its anti-tyrosinase activity, paper mulberry and its compounds exhibited anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, antiviral, anticancer, antidiabetic, anticholinesterase, antigout, antinociceptive, and hepatoprotective effects. Phenols and flavonoids were demonstrated to be the main contributors to the biological activities of paper mulberry. Paper mulberry is widely applied in cosmetics for skin lightening and skin moisturizing purposes and shows potential for application in hair care products due to the hair nourishing effects. The safety of paper mulberry for topical application was proven in clinical studies. Conclusion: The current review provides a better understanding of paper mulberry's properties and allows us to extend the application of this plant and its bioactive components in cosmetics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Rapid detection of harmful estrogens in cosmetics is essential in protecting public health. To reduce time-consuming pretreatment and analytical procedures, a novel reactive paper spray ionization mass spectrometry (RPSI-MS) methodology was developed. RPSI-MS is suitable for quantitatively analyzing estrogens in cosmetics by utilizing an online derivatization reaction between estrogens and 2-fluoro-1-methyl-pyridinium-p-toluene-sulfonate (FluMP). Using estradiol valerate as the internal standard (I.S.), three estrogens, estradiol, estriol, and ethinyloestradiol, in cosmetics were quantitatively characterized within minutes. Multiple parameters were optimized including FluMP concentration and volume, triethylamine amount as well as the drying time. The three estrogens displayed good linearity ranging from 0.002 to 1 μg/mL, with R2 above 0.99. The recovery results of all the estrogens were within 80~111%. The limit of detection (LOD) was 0.001 μg/mL for the three estrogens. Compared to conventional paper spray ionization mass spectrometry (PSI-MS), extraction is not required and the detection sensitivity of RPSI-MS was improved by 34,000, 80,000, and 1400 times for estradiol, estriol, and ethinyloestradiol, respectively. The protocol established in this paper is sensitive, eco-friendly, and suitable for rapid testing of estrogens in cosmetics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, a soft microwave plasma torch (SMPT) combined with a mass spectrometer (MS) was used for the first time as an analytical method to detect and analyze various pharmaceutical and personal care products (PPCPs) in aquatic environments without the need for sample pretreatment. For this purpose, ambient SMPT was used to generate plasma for ionizing the analyte molecules. Accordingly, nine PPCPs were identified by the SMPT-MS, and their identification was verified by collision-induced dissociation (CID). The technique's performance was verified with known PPCP samples, and the limits of detection (LOD) and quantification (LOQ) obtained over a linear range of 50-1 μg/L were 1.56 to 2.81 and 2.07 to 3.62 μg/L, respectively, with the standard addition recovery rate falling between 87.14 and 115.16%. These results show that the method has excellent sensitivity and selectivity, suggesting that SMPT can rapidly and directly detect PPCPs in environmental water, making it a promising method for rapid water quality inspection., (© 2023. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature.)

Paper packaging is considered a sustainable solution and is already used as outer packaging (secondary packaging) or in direct product contact (primary packaging), for example as folding boxes and jars for hair and body care products or pallets for decorative cosmetics. They are biodegradable, recyclable and have a lower environmental impact than plastic packaging. However, the increasing demand for paper is leading to traditional raw material sources such as wood being called into question. Alternative raw material sources are therefore needed. Our research project “Paludiverpackung” is successfully investigating the use of paludicultures as an alternative raw material source for the production of sustainable paper packaging, developing efficient processes for pulp production and improvements in paper production. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Recommendations for cosmetics are gaining popularity, but they are not being made with consideration of the analysis of cosmetic ingredients, which customers consider important when selecting cosmetics., Aims: This article aims to propose a method for estimating the efficacy of cosmetics based on their ingredients and introduces a system that recommends personalized products for consumers, combined with AI skin analysis., Methods: We constructed a deep neural network architecture to analyze sequentially arranged cosmetic ingredients in the product and incorporated skin analysis models to get the precise skin status of users from frontal face images. Our recommendation system makes decisions based on the results optimized for the individual., Results: Our cosmetic recommendation system has shown its effectiveness through reliable evaluation metrics, and numerous examples have demonstrated its ability to make reasonable recommendations for various skin problems., Conclusion: The result shows that deep learning methods can be used to predict the effects of products based on their cosmetic ingredients and are available for use in personalized cosmetic recommendations., (© 2024 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Toxic elements that pose a potential threat to human health are found as impurities in various cosmetic products. In this study, the inorganic profile of 19 elements (Li, B, Mg, Al, Cr, Mn, Co, Ni, Cu, Zn, As, Se, Sr, Mo, Cd, Sb, Ba, Hg, and Pb) in 90 cosmetic products (lipsticks, lip glosses, lip pencils and eye shadows) were detected by inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry after microwave acid digestion method and hazard indices (HI) of 9 toxic elements (Pb, Cd, Cr, Ni, Co, As, Hg, Sb, and Al) were calculated for the assessment of theoretical health risk. Satisfactory method performance parameters were found for each analyte. The results were compared with the maximum permissible limits set by regulatory agencies; 38 of 41 lip products (92.68%) and all eye shadows (n = 49) exceeded the established limits. The HI was found to be ≥ 1 in 82.76% of lip products for oral exposure, whereas HI was ≤ 1 for dermal exposure in all lip products (n = 41) and only one eye shadow sample was ≥ 1 (2.04%). Remarkable results were also detected for 19 elements in this study, which conducted a comprehensive inorganic profiling for the first time. Wide-range concentrations of Mg, Al, Ba, Mn, Cu, Zn, and Sr elements were remarkable. HI values were firstly brought out in this study, although Al, as a well-known toxic element, has not been listed in regulations yet. In conclusion, it is obviously seen that continuous monitoring of cosmetics is crucial not only for toxic elements but also for other essential or non-toxic elements to prevent consumers from long-term exposure., (© 2023. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Science+Business Media, LLC, part of Springer Nature.)

In the last few decades, there has been a growing interest in understanding the behavior of personal care products (PCPs) in the aquatic environment. In this regard, the aim of this study is to estimate the accumulation and effects of four PCPs within the clam Ruditapes philippinarum. The PCPs selected were triclosan, OTNE, benzophenone-3, and octocrylene. A progressive uptake was observed and maximum concentrations in tissues were reached at the end of the exposure phase, up to levels of 0.68 µg g -1 , 24 µg g -1 , 0.81 µg g -1 , and 1.52 µg g -1 for OTNE, BP-3, OC, and TCS, respectively. After the PCP post-exposure period, the removal percentages were higher than 65%. The estimated logarithm bioconcentration factor ranged from 3.34 to 2.93, in concordance with the lipophobicity of each substance. No lethal effects were found although significant changes were observed for ethoxyresorufin O-demethylase activity, glutathione S-transferase activity, lipid peroxidation, and DNA damage., (© 2024. The Author(s).)

Background: The excessive production and accumulation of melanin in the epidermal skin layer can result in skin hyperpigmentation and darkening. Current technologies for regulating melanin are based on inhibiting melanin biosynthesis. They have low effectiveness and safety issues., Aims: This study aimed to evaluate the potential role of Pediococcus acidilactici PMC48 as a probiotic strain in medicines and cosmetics for skin treatment., Materials and Methods: Meanwhile, our research team has reported that P. acidilactici PMC48 strain isolated from sesame leaf kimchi can directly decompose the already synthesized melanin. It can also inhibit melanin biosynthesis. In the present study, we investigated the skin-whitening effect of this strain by arranging an 8-week clinical trial with 22 participants. PMC48 was applied to each participant's artificially UV-induced tanned skin in the clinical trial. Its whitening effect was investigated based on visual evaluation, skin brightness, and melanin index., Results: PMC48 showed a significant effect on the artificially induced pigmented skin. The color intensity of the tanned skin was decreased by 47.647%, and skin brightness was increased by 8.098% after the treatment period. PMC48 also significantly decreased the melanin index by 11.818%, indicating its tyrosinase inhibition capacity. Also, PMC48 improved skin moisture content level by 20.943%. Additionally, 16S rRNA-based amplicon sequencing analysis showed a distinct increase in Lactobacillaceae in the skin by up to 11.2% at the family level without affecting other skin microbiota. Furthermore, it showed no toxicity in in vitro or in vivo analyses., Discussion: These results indicate that P. acidilactici PMC48 is a promising probiotic strain that can be used to develop medicines and cosmetic products to solve skin-related problems., Conclusions: These results demonstrate that P. acidilactici PMC48 can be a potential probiotic for the cosmetic industry against different skin disorders., (© 2023 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Background: Individuals living in the same home may share exposures from direct contact with sources or indirectly through contamination of the home environment., Objective: We investigated the influence of sharing a home on urine levels of ten phenolic chemicals present in some consumer products., Methods: We used data from Silent Spring Institute's Detox Me Action Kit (DMAK), a crowdsourced biomonitoring program in the US. Of the 726 DMAK participants, 185 lived in the same home with one or more other DMAK participants (n = 137 pairs, up to six participants in a home). The concentration distributions included values below the detection limit so we used statistical methods that account for left-censored data, including non-parametric correlation estimation and hierarchical Bayesian regression models., Results: Concentrations were significantly positively correlated between pair-members sharing a home for nine of the ten chemicals. Concentrations of 2,5-dichlorophenol were the most strongly correlated between pair-members (tau = 0.46), followed by benzophenone-3 (tau = 0.31) and bisphenol A (tau = 0.21). The relative contribution of personal product use reported product use of other household members (up to 5 others), and the residual contribution from a shared household, including exposures not asked about, varied by chemical. Paraben concentrations were largely influenced by personal behaviors whereas dichlorophenol and bisphenol concentrations were largely influenced by shared home exposures not related to reported behaviors., Significance: Measuring the influence of personal and household practices on biomonitoring exposures helps pinpoint major sources of exposure and highlights chemical-specific intervention strategies to reduce them., (© 2021. The Author(s).)

The continuous use of household and personal care products (HPCPs) produces an immense amount of chemicals, such as parabens, bisphenols, benzophenones and alkylphenol ethoxylates, which are of great concern due to their well-known endocrine-disrupting properties. These chemicals easily enter the environment through man-made activities, thus contaminating the biota, including soil, water, plants and animals. Thus, on top of the direct exposure on account of their presence in HPCPs, humans are also susceptible to secondary indirect exposure attributed to the ubiquitous environmental contamination. The aim of this review was therefore to examine the sources and occurrence of these noteworthy contaminants (i.e. parabens, bisphenols, benzophenones, alkylphenol ethoxylates), to summarise the available research on their environmental presence and to highlight their bioaccumulation potential. The most notable environmental contaminants appear to be MeP and PrP among parabens, BPA and BPS among bisphenols, BP-3 among benzophenones and NP among alkylphenols. Their maximum detected concentrations in the environment are mostly in the range of ng/L, while in human tissues, their maximum concentrations achieved μg/L due to bioaccumulation, with BP-3 and nonylphenol showing the highest potential to bioaccumulate. Finally, of another great concern is the fact that even the unapproved parabens and benzophenones have been detected in the environment., (© 2022. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature.)

The aim of this research was to determine the content of arsenic (As), cadmium (Cd), lead (Pb), and nickel (Ni) in selected lipsticks and face foundations of different price categories and the health risk assessment associated with these toxic elements via dermal and oral exposure. The samples (10 lipstick and 10 face foundations) were purchased from local markets in Belgrade, Serbia. The samples were prepared by acid digestion and analyzed by atomic absorption spectrometry (flame atomization for Cd, Pb, and Ni and electrothermal atomization for As). Arsenic was found in 50% of lipstick samples and in only two face foundation samples with the highest concentration of 0.28 mg/kg in the lipstick sample. Lead concentration was in the range of 1.15 to 5.12 mg/kg in ten samples. Nickel was found in five samples out of 20, with the highest concentration of 4.20 mg/kg. Cadmium was found in only one face foundation sample in the cheaper price range (1.11 mg/kg). The obtained results indicate that concentrations of As, Pb, Cd, and Ni were within the permissible limits according to Serbian legislation. Health risk associated with these elements was assessed as non-carcinogenic and carcinogenic risk. Obtained hazard quotients (HQs) and hazard indexes (HIs) were below 1, indicating the absence of significant non-carcinogenic health risk due to exposure to these toxic elements (TEs). The carcinogenic risk results show that investigated cosmetic products can be considered low-risky due to the possibility of causing malignant disease., (© 2023. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Nature Switzerland AG.)

Do-it-yourself methods have been used in many fields (cooking, home improvement, decoration, gardening, etc.) for a long time, but their application to the cosmetics sector is relatively recent and seems to be linked to a number of health scandals. The objective of this work is to analyse homemade cosmetics based on a study of blogs and their authors. We made a study of 150 blogs advocating homemade cosmetics. With only one exception, the blog authors were women, mostly in their thirties, with no specific qualifications or knowledge in the fields of cosmetic formulation or chemistry. The most highly qualified of them (with at least a Master's degree) had studied marketing and management. So, the situation is an illustration of the Dunning-Kruger effect, with authors believing themselves to be qualified in a field wholly outside their own. This leads to scientific falsehoods about, for example, preservatives like parabens and phenoxyethanol. On the contrary, the relevance of the ecological motivation frequently mentioned in these blogs is undeniable., (© 2023 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Skin harbors an important microbial ecosystem - the skin microbiota that is in homeostasis with its host and is beneficial for human health. Cosmetic products have the potential to interfere with this microbial community; therefore their impact should be assessed. The aim of this review is to highlight the importance of skin microbiota in the cosmetic industry. Several studies determined that cosmetic ingredients have the potential to disrupt the skin microbiota equilibrium leading to the development of skin diseases and dysregulation of immune response. These studies led their investigation by using different methodologies and models, concluding that methods must be chosen according to the aim of the study, the skin site to be evaluated, and the target population of the cosmetics. Overall, it is crucial to test the impact of cosmetics in the skin microbiota and to stablish standard procedures, as well as specific criteria that allow to classify a cosmetic product as skin microbiota friendly., (© 2022. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Science+Business Media, LLC, part of Springer Nature.)

Background: Facial puffiness, caused by mild or normal fluid retention, commonly experienced by women, may not pose a health risk, but it can be a cause of cosmetic concern. The objectives of this study were to determine whether self-perceived facial puffiness can be measured objectively., Materials and Methods: A total of 151 Chinese women between 20 and 68 years of age were recruited. Facial water content, skin thickness, and elasticity were measured at two time points within a day (visit one occurred when the participants perceived they had facial puffiness; visit two occurred when the participants perceived their facial puffiness had subsided). Participants were also given a rating scale to self-evaluate their puffiness and firmness at different regions of the face., Results: The participants could perceive a difference in facial puffiness between the two visits. Water content and skin thickness were significantly higher in all regions of the face for all participants during the first visit. Skin elasticity was also significantly different between visits one and two. There was a significant increase in water content and skin thickness in the lower eyelid region in women who were older than 40 years., Conclusion: This is the first study to show that self-perceived facial puffiness can be measured objectively and that skin elasticity can change significantly when facial puffiness subsides., (© 2020 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

The study on the fate and transport of Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products, PPCPs (FTP) in the environment, has received particular attention for over two decades. The PPCPs threaten ecology and human health even at low concentrations due to their synergistic effects and long-range transport. The research aims to provide an inclusive map of the scientific background of FTP research over the last 25 years, from 1996 to 2020, to identify the main characteristics, evolution, salient research themes, trends, and research hotspots in the field of interest. Bibliometric networks were synthesized and analyzed for 577 journal articles extracted from the Scopus database. Consequently, seven major themes of FTP research were identified as follows: (i) PPCPs category; (ii) hazardous effects; (iii) occurrence of PPCPs; (iv) PPCPs in organisms; (v) remediation; (vi) FTP-governing processes; and (vii) assessment in the environment. The themes gave an in-depth picture of the sources of PPCPs and their transport and fate processes in the environment, which originated from sewage treatment plants and transported further to sediment/soils/groundwater/oceans that act as the PPCPs' major sink. The article provided a rigorous analysis of the research landscape in the FTP study conducted during the specified years. The prominent research themes, content analysis, and research hotspots identified in the study may serve as the basis of real-time guidance to lead future research areas and a prior review for policymakers and practitioners., (© 2023. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature.)

Nickel is one of the most common allergens found in cosmetics: a high exposure to nickel can cause serious effects on human health, as contact dermatitis or eczema. Considering the spread of this type of allergy among the population and the predominant use of cosmetic products, use portable and easy-to-use devices, which allow a quick and accurate assessment of nickel above the permitted limits, could represent a valid and alternative tool for the protection of human health. In this study, we developed a hybrid paper-polyester printed strip for fast, simple, and low-cost determination of nickel at concentrations consistent with the allowable limits in cosmetics, exploiting the differential pulse adsorptive stripping voltammetry in the presence of dimethylglyoxime as Ni-complexing agent. We report a novel configuration to produce an integrated fully-printed electrochemical device, in which the screen-printed electrode, printed on polyester, is successfully combined with a wax-printed filter paper disk in order to allow the investigation in treatment of complex matrices such as cosmetics ones. In addition, the use of filter paper allows to store all the reagents necessary for carrying out the determination. The method developed has allowed to work with small amount of sample (microliters level), obtaining a detection limit equal to 2 µM in standard solution and 5 µM in the two chosen matrices, namely cream and a synthetic gel. In order to evaluate the applicability, the device was also tested for the analysis of two commercial products, obtaining satisfactory results in terms of sensitivity and repeatability. The accuracy has been also evaluated by inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) measurements, with high correlation between the two approaches. [Display omitted] [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Pharmaceutical and personal care products (PCPPs) were recently recognized as emerging pollutants due to their potential for adverse health and environmental impacts. One potential route of exposure, atmospheric particulate matter (APM), for polar PPCP chemicals has to date received limited attention. This study screened for 190 polar PPCP chemicals in outdoor APM samples collected from two locations in Hanoi, Vietnam, and predictions of source and potential effects on human health are presented. Day and night, as well as dry and rainy seasonal samples, were taken, and samples screened by LC-TOF, using sequential window acquisition and all theoretical fragment ion spectra method. Eleven PPCP chemicals were detected above the LOD and in more than one sample. The ∑11PPCP chemicals ranged from 0.61 to 21.9 ng m -3 (median 2.07 ng m -3 ), with between 2 and 6 compounds identified in individual samples (median 4). The ∑11PPCP chemicals collected near a heavy traffic area was greater than that in a populated residential zone. Night concentrations were significantly greater than day in both dry and rainy seasons (p < 0.05). Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, benzophenone-3, acetaminophen, cotinine, and fluorescent brightener 71 were detected in > 50% of samples. These are typically found in sunscreens, cosmetics, antipyretics, tobacco, and dyes. The DI air , hazard quotient (HQ), and hazard index (HI) for adults and children at sampling sites were estimated. The HQ for both adults and children were orders of magnitude less than the risk or were close to or whichever. APM does appear to be a potential additional secondary exposure source of PPCP chemicals to the environment and more work is needed to identify if sources are local or ubiquitous and if there is a greater health risk., (© 2022. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature.)

Introduction: Asian subjects are particularly prone to skin sensitivity. We developed a facial cream and balm containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol to provide skin comfort and a soothing effect for sensitive skin., Objectives: Assess the dermatological and ophthalmological tolerance and efficacy in improving skin sensitivity of face cream and balm under normal conditions of use by a population known to be particularly prone to this problem., Methods: In a monocentric non-randomized open trial, the cream or balm was applied twice daily to the face, neck, and eye contour of 33 stinger subjects with hypersensitive skin (22-63 years old). Assessments included dermatological and ophthalmological physical and functional signs on Day 1 (D1), D8, and D22, and cosmetic acceptability, cutaneous sensitivity according to a stinging test and the sensitive scale, and the soothing efficacy according to a questionnaire on D22., Results: The cream and balm were very well tolerated. Immediately after application, subjects reported a reduction in the skin's hypersensitivity (93.9% of subjects for the cream and 81.8% for the balm), skin redness (90.9% of subjects for the cream and 87.9% for the balm), sensations of tightness (93.9% for the cream and 97.0% for the balm), and discomfort sensations (93.9% for the cream and 87.9% for the balm). After 21 days, the application of the cream and balm decreased the stinging scores by 65% and 41%, respectively, with 94% and 77% of subjects showing an improvement, respectively. The sensitivity scale questionnaire indicated that the cream and balm significantly and profoundly decreased all negative signs, for example, irritability, stinging, general discomfort, redness, and dryness on D22 compared to D1. On D22, all 15 parameters recorded were improved by 89%-100% by the cream and by 74%-100% by the balm. The majority (90.9% and 96.8% of subjects using the cream and balm, respectively) of the subjects noticed positive changes in their skin condition after using the product for 21 days., Conclusions: The cream and balm were very well-tolerated. This study demonstrated that both products controlled and markedly reduced skin hypersensitivity in Asian subjects, with an immediate and lasting skin soothing and repairing effect over 21 days., (© 2022 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Objective: Titanium dioxide powders are contained in a large class of colour cosmetics and sunscreen formulas. When they are used, the formation of a uniform functional powder layer on the skin is an important factor to show their functionality, such as aesthetic and UV protection. Attempts were made to extract the factors that affect the UV shielding ability of the deposited powder layer., Methods: Seven kinds of surface treatments were conducted on nano-sized titanium dioxide powder to modify the surface characteristics. Dispersion samples were prepared by mixing these powders with liquids, such as mixed solutions of cyclopentasiloxane, isododecane, coconuts alkane and dimethicone using a disperser and a bead mill. The dispersions were applied using an applicator on cellulose triacetate film, polycarbonate film and polymethyl pentene film. Laser microscope observation and micro-gloss glossmeter analysis were carried out to assess the flatness of the deposited powder layers, and the UV shielding ability was evaluated using SPF analyser., Results: Factors whose influences on the structure and UV shielding ability of the deposited powder layer being analysed were pseudo-HLB of the powders, liquids for preparing the dispersions and material of the substrates. Higher UV shielding ability was attained when powders having pseudo-HLB at around 6 were employed independent from the kinds of liquids and substrates. Flatness of the deposited layer was found to enhance the UV shielding ability of the UV-B region, while that of the UV-A region was scarcely influenced by the flatness. Employing lower surface tension liquids for preparing the dispersions and materials exhibiting lower polar components of surface free energy as substrates tended to enhance the UV shielding ability., Conclusion: Surface treatments conducted on the powders in this study were found to change UV shielding ability, especially UV-B shielding ability, and the relation between pseudo-HLB and UV shielding ability was scarcely influenced by the kinds of liquids. Both surface tension of liquids and the polar component of surface free energy of substrates affected the UV shielding ability. It was suggested that pseudo-HLB calculated based on chemical structure becomes useful information to choose optimum surface treatment to make uniform powder alignment independent from the surrounding environment., (© 2022 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Background: Formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers (FRs) are common preservatives in cosmetics and household products. Their contact allergy trends are decreasing in Europe and America, but trend data for Asia are limited., Objectives: The first objective was to determine the prevalences of and trends in contact allergies to formaldehyde and FRs. The second objective was to establish how often formaldehyde and FRs were mentioned on the labels of products sold in the Thai market., Methods: Twenty years of data on patch test results for formaldehyde and FRs were reviewed. Their frequency of mention on the labels of 5855 products was analysed., Results: The trends in contact allergy to formaldehyde and FRs were decreasing. The overall prevalence of formaldehyde contact allergy was 2.5%. The most common FR to cause contact allergy was quaternium-15. Formaldehyde and FRs were identified as ingredients in 10.2% of the products surveyed. Dimethylol dimethyl hydantoin was the most common FR (5.2%). The highest use of formaldehyde and FRs (15.5%) was in hair care products., Conclusion: Although contact allergy trends in Thailand were decreasing, the proportion of products with FRs remained high. Comprehensive and universal legislation is needed to control the presence of formaldehyde and FRs., (© 2022 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Collection of sufficient amounts of chemical residues and metabolites from skin in a non-invasive manner is challenging [1]. The available sampling methods are based on the use of various sampling techniques [2]: macroduct, solvent extraction, tape stripping, oil/membrane approach, implementing absorbing materials such as semipermeable skin patch, alcohol swab, cotton pad, textile, nitrocellulose membrane, or imprinting materials such as silica plate, polydimethylosiloxane film and derivatized silicon. In certain cases, specimen collection is invasive while some materials cause inconvenience due to the time-consuming sampling step. In the past few years, our laboratory developed hydrogel micropatch sampling method, which was successfully combined with mass spectrometry (MS) allowing for detection of skin metabolites [3], disease biomarkers [4], and topical drugs [5]. The previous method took advantage of an atmospheric pressure sample introduction to MS without pre-separation. In fact, such hassle-free interfaces are popular in the MS-related research work [6, 7]. However, eliminating the chromatographic separation step complicates quantitative analysis of complex samples by increasing the risk of isobaric interferences. Another drawback of our previous method was fast drying of the hydrogel (agarose), what put an additional burden on the analyst (preparation of the probes a few hours before sampling skin). In an attempt to address these issues, we have been searching for a better sampling material, and we intended to use it in combination with a hyphenated analytical technique. In principle, one could consider hundreds of synthetic materials (e.g. polymers) as potential sorbents for skin sampling. While a major limitation of implementing new synthetic materials in clinical applications is their biocompatibility [8], various commercially available skin-care products can potentially be used to collect molecules present on the surface of skin for chemical analysis. In this study, we show that oil-control blotting paper can lift chemical species originating from a topical agent from skin in the quantities sufficient for subsequent analysis by gas chromatography (GC) coupled with MS (Fig. 1A). Due to the great popularity of plant-based insect repellents [9], we exemplify the use of the proposed protocol by investigating retention of such a repellent on the surface of skin. The knowledge of the retention kinetics of the related topical agents on the skin can be useful for the development of more effective formulations with long retention times, and--in consequence--for more efficient protection against infectious diseases spread by insect vectors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: Asbestos is a known cause of ovarian cancer. We report 10 cases of serous ovarian cancer among users of Johnson & Johnson (J&J) asbestos-containing "cosmetic" talc products., Methods: We conducted an asbestos exposure assessment during talc application and analyzed surgical tissues and talc containers for asbestos and talc., Results: Talc was found in all cases and tremolite and/or anthophyllite asbestos was found in 8/10 cases. The asbestos fibers found in the "cosmetic" talc containers matched those found in tissues. We estimated inhaled asbestos dose ranged from 0.38 to 5.18 fiber years., Conclusion: We provide evidence that the inhaled dose of asbestos/fibrous talc from "cosmetic" talc use causes ovarian cancer. The unique combination of the types of asbestiform minerals detected in cancerous tissue and "cosmetic" talc is a fingerprint for exposure to asbestos-containing talc.

Background: Plants containing high phenolic and flavonoids contents used widely as antioxidant agent by reducing skin photo damaging effects and play important role in skin rejuvenating., Aims: This study was performed to explore the cosmetic effects of Anacyclus Pyrethrum extract and to develop stable oil in water (O/W) emulsion base gel loaded with Anacyclus Pyrethrum 10% extract., Objective: To explore and quantify phenols and flavonoids present in Anacyclus Pyrethrum extract and determine its cosmetic effects on human skin., Method: Emulgel formulation were developed by mixing o/w emulsion with carbopol gelling agent loaded with Anacyclus Pyrethrum (AP) extract and base gel without AP extract. In vitro study was done for the evaluation of color change, liquefaction, hardness, and pH change at different storage condition for the duration of 12 weeks. For in vivo study, emulgel applied on 13 healthy human volunteer's cheeks to evaluate its cosmetics effects and compared with placebo (base). Facial parameters including skin melanin, redness, sebum, moisture content, and skin elasticity were determined by using mexameter, sebumeter, corneometer, elastometer for the study duration of 12 weeks., Results: Total phenolic content in Anacyclus Pyrethrum extract was 80.04 ± 0.0043 mg GAE/g, and flavonoids were 54.64 ± 0.0076 mg QE/g. Anacyclus Pyrethrum extract found significantly effective in reducing skin photo-damage effects (p ≤ 0.05) as compared base gel., Conclusion: Anacyclus Pyrethrum extract being rich source of flavonoid and phenolic content, acts as strong antioxidant to protect skin against photo-damaging effect and improve skin conditions., (© 2022 Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Spirulinais an edible cyanobacterium known worldwide for its high nutritional value, and the interest in its biological activity and bioactive compounds, such as pigments, phenolics, peptides, and lipids, has been increasing. Due to the variety of its properties, the potential application of Spirulina in health is wide, including dermatological area. In a context of increasing demand for natural products and actives in cosmetics, this microorganism becomes a great source. This article aims to review what has already been reported in literature about the potential effects of Spirulina or its isolated compounds in skin, for either aesthetic or clinical purposes. In many studies, Spirulina and its components show a good influence in proliferation of dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes, extracellular matrix, and collagen production, as well as exerting antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action. Thus, they promote a healthy environment for skin's cells and structure, cooperating for the highlighted anti-aging, photoprotection, and wound-healing effects. Some compounds of the cyanobacterium also exert a lighting property through tyrosinase inhibition. Its antimicrobial action can also be advantageous to skin contributing to anti-acne, antibiofilm, and anti-herpes effects. In face of many attributes and due to its rich composition, Spirulina presents multi-benefits and shows an improvement in the general aspect of skin. However, some applications are still in need of studying and more clinical evidence is necessary., (© 2022 Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Background: Aesthetic procedures are widely performed by dermatologists and plastic surgeons, often with subjective results. In cosmetic dermatology, there is a lack of studies that use accurate instruments to assess result outcomes. Quality of life (QoL) questionnaires can objectively assess results., Objective: To assess the impact of nonsurgical facial cosmetic procedures on QoL., Materials and Methods: This was a longitudinal observational study performed with 81 patients who underwent facial cosmetic procedures at a University Hospital in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The Skin Rejuvenation Outcome Evaluation questionnaire, previously adapted and translated to the Portuguese language spoken in Brazil, was selected, and the results were compared with the Dermatology Life Quality Index. The impact on QoL was statistically evaluated after the interventions., Results: The Skin Rejuvenation Outcome Evaluation scores after the procedures were significantly higher than before ( p < .001), independent of sociodemographic characteristics. Patients treated with botulinum toxin and dermal fillers showed greater satisfaction than those treated with laser, chemical peels or microneedling., Conclusion: Minimally invasive cosmetic procedures result in improvements in QoL. The use of translated, adapted, and validated questionnaires favors the comparison of results among different populations and reinforces the confidence on the results of established cosmetic treatments., (Copyright © 2022 by the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, Inc. Published by Wolters Kluwer Health, Inc. All rights reserved.)

Over the past three decades, environmental concerns about the water pollution have been raised on societal and industrial levels. The presence of pollutants stemming from cosmetic products has been documented in wastewater streams outflowing from industrial as well as wastewater treatment plants. To this end, a series of consistent measures should be taken to prevent emerging contaminants of water resources. This need has driven the development of technologies, in an attempt to mitigate their impact on the environment. This work offers a thorough review of existing knowledge on cosmetic wastewater treatment approaches, including, coagulation, dissolved air flotation, adsorption, activated sludge, biodegradation, constructed wetlands, and advanced oxidation processes. Various studies have already documented the appearance of cosmetics in samples retrieved from wastewater treatment plants (WWTPs), which have definitely promoted our comprehension of the path of cosmetics within the treatment cycle; however, there are still multiple blanks to our knowledge. All treatments have, without exception, their own limitations, not only cost-wise, but also in terms of being feasible, effective, practical, reliable, and environmentally friendly., (© 2022. The Author(s).)

Objective: The purpose of this study is to screen and evaluate cosmetic products for sensitive skin on the face., Methods: Thirty-five subjects with positive lactic acid sting test (LAST) were recruited from the staff of our hospital from November 2019 to February 2020. First, the human skin enclosed patch test of cosmetic gel (abbreviated as gel) was performed, and then the tested products were continuously applied for 4 weeks to complete the long-term efficacy test. Subjects' sensation of application, pruritus, tingling and burning were assessed on a 0 to 9 scale prior to, 14, and 28 days after topical application. Moreover, the transepidermal water loss rate (TEWL), stratum corneum (SC) hydration, melanin index (MI), erythema index (EI) and dendritic cells and inflammatory cell infiltration were noninvasively detected by the tester. LAST were performed before applying, 14 and 28 days after application, and then the test results were compared., Results: In this study, a total of 34 people participated in the test. The results of human skin enclosed patch test indicated that only 1 case of grade 1 reaction occurred among the tested subjects. The subjects felt good after applying the products, and the gel showed high degree of skin comfortable, no irritation and good tolerability. Subjective safety evaluation illustrated that the scores of pruritus, tingling and burning of the subjects decreased in D14 and D28 patient revisit, showing statistically significant differences (P < .05). When the gel was applied for 4 weeks, TEWL (8.42 ± 1.12) and EI (201.35 ± 13.51) were lower than the results before application (P < .05), and the SC hydration (65.36 ± 2.56) was higher than that before application (P < .05). There was no correlation between the SC hydration and TEWL (R = 0.092, P = .416). The results of skin CT indicated that the number of facial dendritic cells decreased in 17 subjects (accounting for 50%) in D28 patient revisit, and the degree of inflammatory cell infiltration decreased in 27 subjects (accounting for 80%). Compared with the baseline value, the LAST score and total sensory score decreased after application the product for 4 weeks, and the difference was statistically significant (the mean value of P < .05)., Conclusion: The subjective feeling of application and efficacy of cosmetics in people with sensitive skin could be successfully evaluated by the comprehensive application of human skin enclosed patch test, long-term trial test, subjective safety evaluation and objective efficacy evaluation. And it provides the basis to judge whether the cosmetic is consistent with the efficacy claim of sensitive skin., Competing Interests: The authors declare no conflicts of interests., (Copyright © 2022 the Author(s). Published by Wolters Kluwer Health, Inc.)

Cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and variable healthcare products used parabens, among other excipients, for their preservative and antimicrobial activities. Paraben derivatives exhibit distinguished physiochemical properties that enable them to be compatible with the formulation of cosmetic agents in different dosage forms. In addition to their potency and efficacy, parabens are economically efficient as they have low-manufacturing costs. Despite the desirable characteristics, the safety of parabens use is controversial after detecting these chemicals in various biological tissues after repetitive and long-term use of formulations containing them. The use of parabens drew public health attention after scientific reports linked skin exposure to parabens with health issues, in particular, breast cancer. In response, worldwide authorities set regulations for the allowance concentrations of paraben to be used in variable cosmetic products., (© 2022 Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

This review aims to provide a clinically useful update regarding the role of formaldehyde (FA) and its five main releasers (FRs) quaternium-15, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, and 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bronopol) in contact allergy and allergic contact dermatitis. These ubiquitous preservatives are still often present, and sometimes undeclared, in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, medical devices, household detergents, and chemical (industrial) products. In Europe, the use of free FA and quaternium-15 in cosmetics is forbidden and contact allergy rates have been found to be stable to decreasing. However, FA/FRs still readily provoke localized (eg, facial/hand), airborne, and generalized dermatitis, and may also complicate atopic and stasis dermatitis, or result in nummular dermatitis. Seborrheic-, rosacea- and impetigo-like dermatitis have recently been reported. For a correct diagnosis, FA 2% aq. (0.60 mg/cm 2 ) should be used, and particularly the FRs bronopol 0.5% pet. and diazolidinyl urea 2% pet. should be patch tested separately in a baseline series. If sensitization to FA occurs, both FA and FRs should preferably be avoided, except perhaps for bronopol in case it tests negatively. If a patient reacts to one or more FRs (such as bronopol or diazolidinyl/imidazolidinyl urea), but not to FA, then the specific FR(s) should be avoided., (© 2022 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Over the last years, more stringent safety requirements for an increasing number of chemicals across many regulatory fields (e.g. industrial chemicals, pharmaceuticals, food, cosmetics, …) have triggered the need for an efficient screening strategy to prioritize the substances of highest concern. In this context, alternative methods such as in silico (i.e. computational) techniques gain more and more importance. In the current study, a new prioritization strategy for identifying potentially mutagenic substances was developed based on the combination of multiple (quantitative) structure-activity relationship ((Q)SAR) tools. Non-evaluated substances used in printed paper and board food contact materials (FCM) were selected for a case study. By applying our strategy, 106 out of the 1723 substances were assigned ‘high priority’ as they were predicted mutagenic by 4 different (Q)SAR models. Information provided within the models allowed to identify 53 substances for which Ames mutagenicity prediction already has in vitro Ames test results. For further prioritization, additional support could be obtained by applying local i.e. specific models, as demonstrated here for aromatic azo compounds, typically found in printed paper and board FCM. The strategy developed here can easily be applied to other groups of chemicals facing the same need for priority ranking. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Current cosmetic regulations primarily focus on protecting consumers, not the professional user who is subjected to a partly different, and certainly more intense exposure to hazardous substances. Against this background, this systematic review aims to compile and appraise evidence regarding skin toxicity of 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA; CAS no. 212-782-2) and ethyl cyanoacrylate (ECA; CAS no. 7085-85-0) contained in cosmetic glues used among hairdressers and beauticians who perform nail treatments and eyelash extension as well as hair extension applications. This systematic review followed the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic review and Meta-Analysis (PRISMA) 2020 recommendations for reporting systematic reviews and meta-analysis. In total, six publications from six countries were eligible for this systematic review. A meta-analysis revealed that hairdressers and beauticians have a ninefold increased risk of developing contact allergy to HEMA compared with controls who are not hairdressers and beauticians. Results for ECA are lacking. The results of this systematic review clearly show that-regarding contact allergy to acrylates-it is not appropriate to apply risk assessment for consumers to hairdressers and beauticians who occupationally handle cosmetic glues. The regulations in existence do not adequately address occupational risks for hairdressers and beauticians connected with the use of acrylate-containing cosmetic substances and need reconsideration., (© 2022 The Authors. Contact Dermatitis published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Photocatalytic technology has been widely studied by researchers in the field of environmental purification. This technology can not only completely convert organic pollutants into small molecules of CO 2 and H 2 O through redox reactions but also remove metal ions and other inorganic substances from water. This article reviews the research progress of graphene-based photocatalytic nanocomposites in the treatment of wastewater. First, we elucidate the basic principles of photocatalysis, the types of graphene-based nanocomposites, and the role of graphene in photocatalysis (e.g., graphene can accelerate the separation of photon-hole pairs and increase the intensity and range of light absorption). Second, the preparation, characterization, and application of composites in wastewater are introduced. We also discuss the kinetic model of the photocatalytic degradation of pollutants. Finally, the enhancement mechanism of graphene in terms of photocatalysis is not completely clear, and graphene-based photocatalysts with high catalytic efficiency, low cost, and large-scale production have not yet appeared, so there is an urgent need for more extensive and in-depth research., (© 2022. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature.)

Objective: In this study, the biopolymers whey protein and chitosan were used to create a thermoresponsive emulsion. The impact of the inclusion of chitosan and inclusion of specific oils on the rheological properties and response to temperature were investigated by a stepwise build-up from simple solutions to oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. Whey protein (WP) concentration and chitosan concentration were varied. The results may help develop strategies for incorporating thermoresponsive materials in stable and high-performing formulations for use in cosmetics., Methods: Solutions of whey protein concentrate (WPC) by itself, chitosan by itself and the combination of the two at various concentrations were tested with flow sweeps, temperature sweeps and frequency sweeps. Then, three different oils of jojoba, avocado and silicone were included to form emulsions and the tests were repeated to determine flow behaviour, response to temperature and structure., Results: By comparing 15 wt. % and 20 wt. % WP solutions, it was found that 15 wt. % WP could provide good viscosities and modulus at a lower amount of material used. The solution composed of 15 wt. % WP, and 0.5 wt. % chitosan was found to have the greatest structural response to temperature compared to solutions with 1.0 wt. % and 1.5 wt. % chitosan. Compared to the addition of 10 wt. % silicone and 10 wt. % avocado oil to form emulsions, the addition of 10 wt. % jojoba oil further strengthened the gel network the most. The final emulsion with pigment added had improved viscosity and thermoresponsive behaviour. The WP and chitosan emulsions were shear thinning, elastically dominated and behaved as classical gels. The behaviour of the emulsions was dependent upon the hydrophobic interactions between the protein and the oil and the electrostatic interactions between the protein and the chitosan., Conclusion: An emulsion composed of 15 wt. % WP, 10 wt. % jojoba oil and 0.5 wt. % chitosan solution was found to have the greatest structural response to temperature. This study of an O/W emulsion containing whey protein concentrate and chitosan demonstrated that different oils and conditions can be used to tune thermoresponsive and rheological behaviour., (© 2021 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Objective: Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel., Methods: A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled., Results: Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition., Conclusion: This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients., (© 2021 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Pharmaceutical and personal care products (PPCPs) recently defined as emerging pollutants that widespread in surface water all around the world. This study investigated the distribution, and ecological risk of PPCPs in urban rivers of Hanoi, Vietnam, and Metro Manila, the Philippines. Of the 56 investigated PPCPs, 48 and 33 compounds were detected in the river water in Hanoi and in Metro Manila, respectively. The individual PPCP concentrations ranged from a few ng L -1 to thousands of ng L -1 . The total concentration of PPCPs detected in water samples ranged from 7.5 to 20,789 ng L -1 in Hanoi and 118 to 3,394 ng L -1 in Manila. The predominant antibiotics was sulfamethoxazole detected in 27/28 samples with a maximum concentration up to 2,778 ng L -1 in Hanoi and presented in all samples with a maximum concentration up to 261 ng L -1 in Metro Manila. In Hanoi, the level of PPCPs in urban canals of Kim Nguu and To Lich Rivers was as high as that detected in domestic wastewater. The PPCP concentrations in tributaries and mainstream were lower than those found in urban canals. In rivers of both sites, PPCPs tended to increase along the stream. The concentration ratio of the labile marker caffeine to recalcitrant marker carbamazepine indicated that untreated domestic wastewater is the significant source of PPCPs in river water in Hanoi and Metro Manila. The ecological risk estimated by the risk quotient of the obtained maximum residue of PPCPs in investigated river water predicted a high risk of PPCPs to the aquatic organism in both Hanoi and Manila., (© 2021. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Nature Switzerland AG.)