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Wave climatologies from historical and projected simulations of the ACCESS1.0, MIROC5 and CNRM-CM5 Global Circulation Models (GCM) were sourced from the Coordinated Ocean Wave Climate Project (COWCLIP) and downscaled using the SWAN wave model. Biases between GCM's historical simulations and a regional hindcast were assessed, and the two best-performing models (ACCESS1.0, MIROC5) had their projections analysed. A general increase in wave height and period was observed along the south/west, together with a decrease in $H_s$ H s along the north/east coasts. The projected near-term (NEA21C) period shows mostly a $H_s$ H s increase, whilst for the long-term (END21C) period, increased and decreased $H_s$ H s are present. The areas of statistically significant changes are larger in the END21C than in the NEA21C period. The wave direction change is counter-clockwise along the west and clockwise along the east coasts. This study is a first assessment of historical and projected GCM-forced waves along New Zealand and the database we generated can be of great value for renewable energy research, risk assessment and the mitigation of future coastal hazards. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The process of shoreline change is inherently complex, and reliable predictions of shoreline position remain a key challenge in coastal research. Predicting shoreline evolution could potentially benefit from deep learning (DL), which is a recently developed and widely successful data-driven methodology. However, so far its implementation for shoreline time series data has been limited. The aim of this contribution is to investigate the potential of DL algorithms to predict interannual shoreline position derived from camera system observations at a New Zealand study site. We investigate the application of convolutional neural networks (CNNs) and hybrid CNN-LSTM (Long Short-Term Memory) networks. We compare our results with two established models: a shoreline equilibrium model and a model that addresses timescales in shoreline drivers. Using a systematic search and different measures of fitness, we found DL models that outperformed the reference models when simulating the variability and distribution of the observations. Overall, these results indicate that DL models have potential to improve accuracy and reliability over current models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Topographic and bathymetric data are essential for accurate predictions of flooding in estuaries because water depth and elevation data are fundamental components of the shallow-water hydrodynamic equations used in models for storm surges and tides. Where lidar or in situ acoustic surveys are unavailable, recent efforts have centred on using satellite-derived bathymetry (SDB) and satellite-derived topography (SDT). This work is aimed at (1) determining the accuracy of SDT and (2) assessing the suitability of the SDT and SDB for extreme water level modelling of estuaries. The SDT was created by extracting the waterline as it tracks over the topography with changing tides. The method was applied to four different estuaries in Aotearoa / New Zealand: Whitianga, Maketū, Ōhiwa and Tauranga harbours. Results show that the waterline method provides similar topography to the lidar with a root-mean-square error equal to 0.2 m, and it is slightly improved when two correction methods are applied to the topography derivations: the removal of statistical bias (0.02 m improvement) and hydrodynamic modelling correction of waterline elevation (0.01 m improvement). The use of SDT in numerical simulations of surge levels was assessed for Tauranga Harbour in eight different simulation scenarios. Each scenario explored different ways of incorporating the SDT to replace the topographic data collected using non-satellite survey methods. In addition, one of these scenarios combined SDT (for intertidal zones) and SDB (for subtidal bathymetry), so only satellite information is used in surge modelling. The latter SDB is derived using the well-known ratio–log method. For Tauranga Harbour, using SDT and SDB in hydrodynamic models does not result in significant differences in predicting high water levels when compared with the scenario modelled using surveyed bathymetry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The process of shoreline change is inherently complex and reliable predictions of shoreline position remain a key challenge in coastal research. Predicting shoreline evolution could potentially benefit from Deep Learning (DL), which is a recently developed and widely successful data-driven methodology. However, so far its implementation for shoreline time series data has been limited. The aim of this contribution is to investigate the potential of DL algorithms to predict interannual shoreline position derived from camera system observations at a New Zealand study site. We investigate the application of Convolutional Neural Networks (CNNs) and hybrid CNN - Long Short-Term Memory networks. We compare our results with two established models, a shoreline equilibrium model, and a model that addresses time scales in shoreline drivers. Using a systematic search and different measures of fitness we found DL models that outperformed the reference models when simulating the variability and distribution of the observations. Overall, these results indicate that DL models have potential to improve accuracy and reliability over current models. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We applied machine learning to improve the accuracy of present predictors of wave setup. Namely, we used an evolutionary-based genetic programming model and a previously published dataset, which includes various beach and wave conditions. Here, we present two new wave setup predictors: a simple predictor, which is a function of wave height, wavelength, and foreshore beach slope, and a fitter, but more complex predictor, which is also a function of sediment diameter. The results show that the new predictors outperform existing formulas. We conclude that machine learning models are capable of improving predictive capability (when compared to existing predictors) and also of providing a physically sound description of wave setup. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Traditional sediment transport equations calculate sediment flux from bed shear stress and the equations predict that transport increases nonlinearly with an increase in flow velocity. In a dune field, the dune geometry affects the flow velocity causing accelerating flow over the dune crest and de- and reattachment of the flow downstream of the dune crest. Sediment flux predicted from the reach-averaged bed shear stress gives fairly good results for dune fields, though their simplification is discordant for the complexity of the processes involved. Measurements of the displacement of sand particles over the dune bed were derived from highfrequency image capturing. The two main methods to measure particle velocities from images are particle tracking velocimetry (PTV) and particle image velocimetry (PIV). We compare individual particle tracking with a PIV-based correlation method. The PIV-based method promises to be a more efficient and effective approach to track particle motion. It is more suitable for the conditions of high bedload transport, as present in our experiments. The PIV-based method is based on using images of difference (IoD) and is fully automated and identifies spatial gradients at a support scale in the order of centimetres. Findings align with our general knowledge of accelerating flow over the dune crest. The mean streamwise particle velocity and activity over a dune stoss slope increase. At the scale of 0.026 m the observed particle velocity variability can be explained in the context of general onset and cessation of sediment transport, the effect of the reattachment zone and observed sweep/burst events. By decreasing the streamwise distance between cross-sections, the variations in mean particle velocity induced by superimposed bed defects are distinguished as well. The maximum particle velocity and activity occurred at the same location and consequently the location of the maximum transport over the dune crest was identified. The measurements bridge the gap between individual particle motion studies and (non-local) sediment transport flux measurements.

Tropical cyclones are associated with extreme winds, waves, and storm surge, being among most destructive natural phenomena. Developing capability for a rapid impact estimate is crucial for coastal applications and risk preparedness. When predicting waves characteristics associated to tropical cyclones, the traditional approach involves a two‐step procedure (a) a Holland‐type wind vortex model and (b) numerical simulations using a wave generation model, using buoy and satellite measurements for validation. In this work, we take advantage of the increasing amount of remote sensing observational data and propose a new empirical model to estimate the wind wave footprint of tropical cyclones. For this purpose, we construct a dataset with over a million satellite observations of waves triggered by tropical cyclones assuming a circular shape of the TC influence area and defining composites of significant wave height as a function of representative parameters of the track characteristics like the minimum pressure, its forward velocity, and its latitude. The validation against buoy data confirms the usefulness of the model for a first and rapid estimation of the wave footprint, although an underestimation of the most extreme events is observed due to the relatively small number of observations recorded. Due to its efficiency, the model can be applied for rapid estimations of wave footprints in operational systems, reconstruction of historical or synthetic events and risk assessments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

We applied machine learning to improve the accuracy of present predictors of wave setup. Namely, we used an evolutionary-based genetic programming model and a previously published dataset, which includes various beach and wave conditions. Here, we present two new wave setup predictors, a simple predictor, which is a function of wave height, wavelength, and beach slope, and a fitter, but more complex predictor, which is also a function of sediment diameter. The results show that the new predictors outperform existing formulas. Therefore, we conclude that machine learning models are capable of not only improving prediction capability (when compared to classical predictors) but also of providing physically sound descriptions of the processes modelled. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]