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A review of Shirts Powdered Red: Haudenosaunee Gender, Trade, and Exchange across Three Centuries, by Maeve Kane. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Saudi Art & Design Journal is the property of Saudi Art & Design Journal and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Visible-infrared person re-identification (VI-ReID) aims to match individuals across different modalities. Existing methods can learn class-separable features but still struggle with modality gaps within class due to the modality-specific information, which is discriminative in one modality but not present in another (e.g., a black striped shirt). The presence of the interfering information creates a spurious correlation with the class label, which hinders alignment across modalities. To this end, we propose an Unbiased feature learning method based on Causal inTervention for VI-ReID from three aspects. Firstly, through the proposed structural causal graph, we demonstrate that modality-specific information acts as a confounder that restricts the intra-class feature alignment. Secondly, we propose a causal intervention method to remove the confounder using an effective approximation of backdoor adjustment, which involves adjusting the spurious correlation between features and labels. Thirdly, we incorporate the proposed approximation method into the basic VI-ReID model. Specifically, the confounder can be removed by adjusting the extracted features with a set of weighted pre-trained class prototypes from different modalities, where the weight is adapted based on the features. Extensive experiments on the SYSU-MM01 and RegDB datasets demonstrate that our method outperforms state-of-the-art methods. Code is available at https://github.com/NJUPT-MCC/UCT. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Due to the complex hierarchical structure of clothing, understanding the complete structure through observation alone is challenging in basic learning and teaching processes. Therefore, this paper proposes a clothing virtual structure decomposition and display technology based on WebGL, which showcases detailed information on clothing structure components by splitting virtual clothing models on the web. Taking a fusion women's blouse as an example, this paper employs the CLO3D clothing modeling software to build a virtual model, export it in GLTF format, and then perform lightweight processing. The virtual model is then imported into the clothing virtual decomposition system. The clustering grouping algorithm designed by the system can combine clothing accessories into their respective pattern pieces, achieving holistic selection, thus better presenting all component structure details. Beginners can dynamically observe clothing structure details and interactively split and view internal multilayer structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A study was conducted to measure aerosol particles emitted from laboratory coats (lab coats) under vibration, comparing them with a suit and a shirt. This study focused on particles ranging from 0.3 μm to >10 μm. Experimental results showed that lab coat vibration increased particles >5 μm while reducing submicron particles. The lab coat (old and used) exhibited greater particle concentration variations under vibration compared to those using the new lab coat or the shirt. Contrastingly, the suit under vibration did not significantly affect particle concentrations. These findings highlight the impact of lab coat vibration on aerosol particle concentrations in the surrounding air, which is important for work environments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article focuses on the journey of Betty Curnow's red patterned blouse, tracing its transformation from a simple garment to an iconic piece of art and cultural heritage. Topics include the blouse's role in Rita Angus' 1942 portrait of Curnow, its creative repurposing into a bikini and later as a curtain fabric, and the recent discovery of fabric fragments that deepen its historical significance.

Drawing upon Stanley J. Tambiah's idea of "world conquerors" and "world renouncers," this article examines the Burmese political festival (nainganyei pwe) as a ritual, affective, and material space where former political prisoners reinterpret violence and engage in forms of collective and personal "world‐making." The article focuses on one practice in particular: the ritual wearing of white shirts by the 88 Generation. It is argued that there are psychological benefits to donning this symbolic attire. Like sacred amulets described by Tambiah, the white shirt provides ontological security to former political prisoners. For leaders (gaungzaungs) in the movement, the white shirts are integral to how they create and embody power, becoming conduits of charismatic authority. Within the context of the nainganyei pwe and when combined with other "technologies of the self," the white shirts create a feeling of inviolability and allow survivors of political violence to reassert personal and collective agency. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The availability of shirts and camisoles in eighteenth-century households in Burgos was a marker of social distinction of notable importance within the existing material culture framework. The different socio-professional groups, conditioned by their rank and their wealth, deployed a wide range of behaviours and consumption strategies in which aspects such as the number of treasured pieces, the quality of the available fabrics, and the monetary value of these clothes were taken into account. Particularly significant was the incorporation of camisoles, a garment of French - Bourbon - origin that represented a symbol of modernity, as opposed to the more traditional Castilian shirts associated with the House of Austria. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article presents the traditional costume of the shepherds from the Eastern Carpathians, from an historical perspective, using narrative, bibliographic, iconographic, folklore, and archival sources. The muruite [smeared] shirts treated with soot become regional and occupational signs in the mountain area of Bistriţa, Maramureş, and Bucovina regions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Plural - Revista de Ciências Sociais is the property of Revista Plural and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Objectives: Due to climate change and major sport events in hot climate, temperature regulation during exercise is gaining relevance in professional and amateur sports. This study compares the effects of an upper body garment with water-soaked inlays, of a synthetic- and of a cotton shirt on health, fluid balance and performance during a high intensity exercise session in the heat. Methods: 32 healthy participants (age 25 ± 4 years; 15 women) were assigned to one of three upper body garments (cotton-shirt, synthetic-fiber-shirt, cooling-vest with water-soaked inlays) and underwent a high intensity steady state ergometer exercise test (Temperature 30.5 °C, frontal airflow 20 km/h, relative air-humidity 43 ± 13%). Time to exhaustion, physiologic parameters (inner ear temperature, heart rate, relative oxygen uptake, body weight, garment weight) and subjective data (perceived exertion, thermal sensation, skin wettedness, clothing humidity, feeling scale) were assessed. Time to exhaustion was analyzed using a survival time analysis. Other outcomes were evaluated using Kruskal-Wallis Tests and 95%-confidence-intervals. Results: Time to exhaustion was not different between groups. Cooling-vests were heavier and led to lower inner ear temperature, lower thermal- and higher clothing-humidity-sensation at the start of exercise. Physiologic and subjective parameters showed no group differences at exercise termination. Conclusions: In a realistic setting including frontal airflow, synthetic and cotton-fiber shirts reach comparable effects on health and thermoregulation and are perceived as equally comfortable. Although inducing a small pre-exercise cooling effect, a water-soaked garment induces a weight penalty and creates a less comfortable situation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As sponsorship revenue is a major source of income for professional football clubs and even more important during the challenging COVID-19-shaped times, this study examines the impact of several factors on sponsorship awareness of European elite football clubs. The German-speaking survey participants were asked to recall the shirt sponsors of the 15 most successful football clubs based on the UEFA's Club Coefficient Ranking. Additionally, respondents evaluated the sponsorship fit between each club and its respective shirt sponsor. Regarding all three investigated factors (duration of the sponsorship, on-field success of the sponsored club, national or international partnership), a significant influence on sponsorship awareness could be determined. On-field success, long-term sponsorships and national sponsors have a positive impact on sponsorship awareness, while the numbers decrease for short-term partnerships and lower-ranked teams (on-field success). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The traditional shirt (“ie”) is the most well-known element of Romanian anonymous textile art. Apart from aesthetic and utilitarian roles, it has strong symbolic significance, mainly through the colours used for decoration. Very recently, the traditional shirt with decoration over the shoulder (“ia cu altiță”) was introduced as a Romanian identity element as part of UNESCO heritage. Depending on the ethnographic area, the traditional shirt with decoration over the shoulder has acquired special expressive particularities over time. Particularly relevant is that from Valea Hârtibaciului, an area of Transylvania in the very centre of Romania. Although sober in appearance with large fields of white plain weave, it is discreetly decorated with elaborated embroidery on the sleeve bracelets, over the shoulders and neck. Even the colour range and decoration motifs remain unchanged in time, evolution in the materials used and a subtle transition from natural hues to more strident alternatives were observed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. For the present study, samples were taken from representative objects in the collections of the ASTRA Museum, Sibiu and Ethnographical Museum, Brasov, documented as belonging to the area of Valea Hârtibaciului and dated in the museum archives as from the late 19th and early 20th century. The textile materials and the dyes used in the shirts’ embroidery were monitored. Fibre identification was made by optical microscopy and infrared spectroscopy (FTIR-ATR). Dye analysis was performed by liquid chromatography coupled with UV-Vis (diode array) detection, while some of the samples were also analysed by liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometric detection (LC-DAD-MS). Dyes were extracted from the fibres by acid hydrolysis. Identification was based on data collected on standards, dyes and dyed fibres. For the early synthetic dyes, a dedicated library of references was built, which includes information relative to the most relevant representatives used between 1850 and 1900, the ‘Helmut Schweppe list’. According to the study, in the last decades of the 19th century, natural dye sources such as dyer’s broom, madder, Mexican cochineal and indigoid dyes were gradually replaced by early synthetic dyes: fuchsine (1856), methyl violet (1861), synthetic alizarin (1871), brilliant green (1879), azo flavine 3R (1880), rhodamine B (1887) and others.

Interlining is a very important accessory in the garment industry and is used between two layers of fabric in the garment to support the appearance and stance of the garment. In fusible interlinings, petroleum‐based synthetic materials such as polyamide, polyester, high‐density polyethylene (HDPE), low‐density polyethylene (LDPE), and various copolymers are used as the bonding material. Since these polymers do not degrade over time in nature, they do not support environmentally friendly production. This study aimed to produce fully biodegradable (100%) fusible interlinings by using environmentally friendly biodegradable polymers instead of traditional ones and thus develop eco‐friendly garment with their help. Firstly, fusible interlinings were produced by coating three different polymers, one conventional (HDPE) and the other two biodegradable (PLA and PCL) on the cotton base fabric by knife coating technique. In the second stage, these fusible interlinings were applied to a 100% cotton shirting fabric, and their performance and biodegradability tests were performed. According to the results, it was revealed that these interlinings could be used in the production of completely biodegradable clothes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The other contemporary textile programme closely linked to Derry city comes in the form of the International Conflict Textiles collection curated by Roberta Bacic. From Shirts to Arpilleras - Derry's Textile Heritage Continues Since then, Conflict Textiles has continued to use the process of I arpillera i workshops, seeding the creation of I arpilleras i and textiles exhibitions as a means of encouraging people to reflect on and process the difficult past in Northern Ireland and beyond. [Extracted from the article]

We investigated the impact of outfit colors on the frequency of offside judgments in soccer. In a recent laboratory study, observers made more offside judgments against forwards wearing the outfit of Schalke 04 (blue shirts, white shorts) than against forwards wearing the outfit of Borussia Dortmund (yellow shirts, black shorts), when figure-background luminance contrast was higher for the former team. Here, we investigated whether a similar effect is present in real matches of the German Bundesliga. Study 1 revealed a higher offside score for Schalke 04 than for Borussia Dortmund in matches between these clubs. Studies 2–4 showed higher offside scores for teams wearing a blue/white outfit, and lower offside scores for teams wearing a yellow/black outfit, in their matches against all other Bundesliga teams. Together, results suggest that more offside judgments are made against teams of higher salience, possibly induced by differences in figure-background contrast. Notably, this color-related bias occurred in our study even though a Video-Assistant Referee (VAR) supervised the (offside) decisions of the Assistant Referees. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Wool Textile Journal is the property of National Wool Textile Science & Technology Information Center and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Retro-reflective materials are important for safety purposes, such as enhancing the visibility of pedestrians at night when they wear garments with reflective materials and therefore reducing pedestrian fatalities. This has challenged different manufacturers to produce effective materials that provide the best retro-reflection. Most of these materials are applied as stripes on clothing, but can also extend to artisans using reflective yarns in their creations. Nevertheless, there is a lack of research and the synthesis of reflective yarns and African design patterns (due to its symbolic value for the African people) to create effective textiles that have the necessary properties for visibility at night. In this research work, a new approach is adopted by using a design process that combines jacquard weaving technology, reflective threads and African design patterns to produce retro-reflective textiles. The subsequent reflective effects captured in a darkroom show the retro-reflective ability of the samples. The testing carried out by using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics shows that the total hand value (THV) of the samples makes them suitable for men's winter dress shirts and women's thin winter dresses (with positive values) but not suitable for the summer garment (with negative values) counterparts respectively. This new approach might extend the ideation to produce retro-reflective textiles that can be applied for many different uses. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The traditional shirt ("ie") is the most well-known element of Romanian anonymous textile art. Apart from aesthetic and utilitarian roles, it has strong symbolic significance, mainly through the colours used for decoration. Very recently, the traditional shirt with decoration over the shoulder ("ia cu altiță") was introduced as a Romanian identity element as part of UNESCO heritage. Depending on the ethnographic area, the traditional shirt with decoration over the shoulder has acquired special expressive particularities over time. Particularly relevant is that from Valea Hârtibaciului, an area of Transylvania in the very centre of Romania. Although sober in appearance with large fields of white plain weave, it is discreetly decorated with elaborated embroidery on the sleeve bracelets, over the shoulders and neck. Even the colour range and decoration motifs remain unchanged in time, evolution in the materials used and a subtle transition from natural hues to more strident alternatives were observed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. For the present study, samples were taken from representative objects in the collections of the ASTRA Museum, Sibiu and Ethnographical Museum, Brasov, documented as belonging to the area of Valea Hârtibaciului and dated in the museum archives as from the late 19th and early 20th century. The textile materials and the dyes used in the shirts' embroidery were monitored. Fibre identification was made by optical microscopy and infrared spectroscopy (FTIR-ATR). Dye analysis was performed by liquid chromatography coupled with UV-Vis (diode array) detection, while some of the samples were also analysed by liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometric detection (LC-DAD-MS). Dyes were extracted from the fibres by acid hydrolysis. Identification was based on data collected on standards, dyes and dyed fibres. For the early synthetic dyes, a dedicated library of references was built, which includes information relative to the most relevant representatives used between 1850 and 1900, the 'Helmut Schweppe list'. According to the study, in the last decades of the 19th century, natural dye sources such as dyer's broom, madder, Mexican cochineal and indigoid dyes were gradually replaced by early synthetic dyes: fuchsine (1856), methyl violet (1861), synthetic alizarin (1871), brilliant green (1879), azo flavine 3R (1880), rhodamine B (1887) and others. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Anadolu University Journal of Art & Design / Sanat & Tasarım is the property of Anadolu University and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Purpose: Bond strength is an indicator of the quality of the fusing process. The study's primary purpose is to predict the bond strength using easily measurable variables. This study focuses on shirting fabrics fused with woven interlinings and changes in bond strength before and after washing. Design/methodology/approach: This study attempts to model and predict bond strength of fused shirt composites using an initial screening design followed by full factorial design of experiments. After screening out, those found significantly affecting the bond strength are fabric fiber content, interlining areal weight and fusing temperature. This study proposes the regression models explaining the effect of the three variables on bond strength before and after washing the fused composites. Findings: This study found that heavy interlinings (250 g/sq.m) require higher fusing temperatures than the lighter interlining (225 g/sq.m). After washing, the bond strength of samples fused at high temperatures reduced in some instances. Maintaining a high temperature without considering interlining weight can lower the bond strength after washing the fused composites. Originality/value: A combination of screening and full factorial DOE is used to analyze and predict bond strength of composites comprising medium-weight shirting fabrics and heavier weight interlinings used in shirts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design is the property of Universidade do Estado de Santa Catarina and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

When a garment is given a certain amount of ease, the body shape characteristics and matching degree of air gap distribution determine the aesthetic fit of garment sculpt. The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between the aesthetic fit and air gap distribution of the bust and waist sections. Three factors, the ratio of the horizontal radius vector to the bust and waist sections (HrvB, HrvW) and the location and proportion of darts (DL, DP), have been considered in this analysis. Ten female participants with different Hrv (including HrvB and HrvW) were recruited and asked to wear 10 sample blouses with different DL and DP. Samples worn by participants are observed at different angles, and evaluated with scores by 30 experts. The air gap thickness (THA) between the garment and skin are measured by a TC2 scanner and Qualisys three-dimensional motion capture system. The results show that Hrv is the most important factor affecting the aesthetic fit, while DL and DP have significant influence on the formation of garment wrinkles. A round body shape has higher scores when wearing sample garments whose waist dart is close to the front and middle (samples L2, L3) and smaller back middle dart and front waist dart (samples P1, P2), while a flat body shape has higher scores in the opposite condition (sample L5, P5). In terms of air gap distribution, there is a significant positive correlation between HrvB and THA in the front area (132–180°). Here, HrvW was negatively correlated with THA in the back side area. The correlation coefficients are all above 0.6. The DL has a great influence on THA in the side area of the bust section and front side area of the waist section, while DP has a great influence on THA in the front and back areas of the bust section and the back side area of the waist section. In a comparative analysis, this paper proved that the smaller fluctuation of THA and the uniform ease distribution are more likely to present an aesthetic and fit dressing appearance. Although the relationship between THA and the three factors was not significant, the regularity of its distribution is accompanied by a significant change of dressing score. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, we discuss a community-based knitting project that is a response to the Canadian Truth and Reconciliation Commission’s Call to Action to educate about the legacy of Indigenous Residential Schools. We highlight the need to keep the concept of reconciliation active by using it’s verb form to point to the need for ongoing work. We next focus on the ways in which The Orange Shirt Project (TSOP) touches on both Indigenous pedagogies and the responsibility of public pedagogues, such as university faculty, to engage in work that enacts public agency. Finally, we tie our work back to the importance of relationships and relational ethics in doing the work of reconciling. Our goal is to show this project as a reproducable form of activism tht can occur in multiple contexts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In order to better identify the detailed element features of garments,a Faster R-CNN network model with recurrent structure was proposed by taking the collar of shirt as an example.The Faster R-CNN network was used to complete the first-level recognition of the collar and the interception of its bounding box,and then the network components were recycled to achieve the recognition and classification of the second-level detail features of the collar.The weight penalty method was used to set three groups of class weights to solve the problem of imbalanced samples among each class in the shirt collar dataset.The experimental results showe that the mean average precision of the network increased from 96.23% to 98.79% after changing the class weights,and the weighting coefficient of the class with the highest percentage of samples to control the weights can effectively improve the detection precision of the model.Since the image intercepted after the first-level recognition only contained the collar area,which can highlight the target,the accuracy of the second-level classification reaches 97.09%,and the method further improves the recognition effect of collar detail features,which provides a new method and idea for the accurate recognition of garment styles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The old fibers that make up heritage textiles displayed in museums are degraded by the aging process, environmental conditions (microclimates, particulate matter, pollutants, sunlight) and the action of microorganisms. In order to counteract these processes and keep the textile exhibits in good condition for as long as possible, both reactive and preventive interventions on them are necessary. Based on these ideas, the present study aims to test a natural and non-invasive method of cleaning historic textiles, which includes the use of a natural substance with a known antifungal effect (being traditionally used in various rural communities)—lye. The design of the study was aimed at examining a traditional women's shirt that is aged between 80–100 years, using artificial intelligence techniques for Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) imagery analysis and X-ray powder diffraction technique in order to achieve a complex and accurate investigation and monitoring of the object's realities. The determinations were performed both before and after washing the material with lye. SEM microscopy investigations of the ecologically washed textile specimens showed that the number of microorganism colonies, as well as the amount of dust, decreased. It was also observed that the surface cellulose fibers lost their integrity, eventually being loosened on cellulose fibers of cotton threads. This could better visualize the presence of microfibrils that connect the cellulose fibers in cotton textiles. The results obtained could be of real value both for the restorers, the textile collections of the different museums, and for the researchers in the field of cultural heritage. By applying such a methodology, cotton tests can be effectively cleaned without compromising the integrity of the material. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: Fully formed knitting technology is a cutting-edge technology in the design and production of knitted apparel. Using this technology and its supporting design system, a new development mode of fully formed knitted apparel with double-layer structure and fake two-piece knitwear is proposed. Design/methodology/approach: Based on the upper body structure feature points of human body characteristics and single-layer knitted garment prototype, a double-layer structure knitted garment pattern was established by pattern expansion method. The model was introduced into SDS-APPEX3 design system for process design, including three aspects consists: the inner vest, the outer blouse and double-layer joint part, analysis of the process and forming principle. Weaving on four-needle bed computerized flat knitting machine of MACH-2XS, through the setting of the machine parameters. Finally, a full-shaped fake two-piece knitted blouse was formed. Findings: On the basis of single-layer knitted garment pattern, a double-layer garment pattern is constructed, and the design and weaving are completed on the four-needle bed computerized knitting machine of MACH-2XS and its supporting SDS-APPEX3 design system through the fake two-piece double-layer garment style design. The double-layer joint model is an effective reference for the construction of this kind of fake two-piece fully formed knitted clothing. Originality/value: In this paper, a design and knitting method of fully formed double-layer structure fake two-piece knitted garment is proposed. The integrated knitting of fully formed double-layer structure sweater is realized for the first time, which provides ideas for the development of fully formed double-layer structure knitted clothing style and enriches the fully formed clothing style. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

I have made this series of prints as a reminder of my dad, and lots of dads, who had shirts for work and shirts for best, and who would have given you the shirt off their backs if asked. Even now, I sometimes see a shirt in a shop and think, "Dad would like that, it would really suit him." When my dad died at the age of 85, it fell to me to sort out his possessions. [Extracted from the article]

Copyright of Industria Textila is the property of Institutul National de Cercetare-Dezvoltare pentru Textile si Pielarie and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Energy efficiency is one of the key aspects in energy transition, especially in building construction. One of the important things is also thermal comfort of the individuals. In this article, the design and the first results for the novel sensor device used to measure skin temperature are presented at two points used for purposes of estimating thermal comfort, a subjective feeling expressing the satisfaction with the thermal environment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This work brings in its scope some analyzes around the constructive methodology of a case study that refers to the implantation of a dolphin (a structure that in this case has the purpose of mooring ships) at Pier III, located in Ponta da Madeira Maritime Terminal, in the city of São Luís, Maranhão, and with a focus on the process of building its infrastructure, more precisely the adopted foundation. This type of work, being port and in a maritime environment is called offshore, the foundation used in this case is the deep type, more precisely called piles excavated with a lost metallic shirt whose constructional scope will be detailed in this work, from the driving from shirts to concreting the piles that made up the system. The theme is approached from a practical and theoretical point of view, with a probabilistic study of the load capacity of foundations based on geometrical data from surveys carried out in the region, in order to define results that include any variability of the location and guarantee functionality and safety necessary for the foundation to achieve the project's objectives and be optimized throughout its useful life. The analysis of the probability of rupture was made using the semi-empirical method of Aoki-Velloso, combined with the First Order Second Moment method in order to compare the result achieved with the established parameter values. The work also aims to serve as a basis for future guidance and guidance on the topic, which does not have such a vast bibliography, mainly in view of the installation of new similar projects in the region and in other locations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

As a site of performance, the aloha shirt has been adopted by different social groups and functions as a contested site of meaning and memory, concealing and calling out histories of racial hierarchy, white supremacy, and conquest. This article uses the boogaloo movement's "aloha shirt uniform" as an opportunity to reengage with a discussion about the role the attire plays in popular imagination. An analysis of different uses of aloha wear by Hawaiians, Hawai'i residents, and boogaloo members demonstrates that location and context impact the shirt's distinct visibility and dictate how its contested meanings are understood. It also contends that the distinction between the aloha shirt as a signifier of a multicultural tropical paradise and the boogaloo movement's use of it as a symbol of white nationalism is not as disconnected as some make it out to be. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article presents the investigation of two linen shirts which form part of the funerary dress of Bishop Peder Pedersen Winstrup (1605–1679), buried 1680 in Lund Cathedral, southern Sweden. When the grave was opened in 2013, it was discovered that the body had been naturally mummified, and that the funerary dress, including the linen, was well-preserved. Extant Early Modern linen garments are rare and the Winstrup shirts are an important contribution to a small corpus. The two shirts are compared to other, similar, examples. The study focuses on the materiality of the shirts and the manufacturing techniques in the context of northern European fashionable clothing culture, as well as their function and meaning as funerary garments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This research focuses on the integration between functional finishing and the performance properties of polyester fabric for comfortable clothes. The effects of nanofinishing (zinc oxide nanoparticles and nano-polyurethane nanocomposite) on the ultraviolet protection properties of polyester fabric, the whiteness index, and the Kawabata Evaluation System were studied. Under the optimum finishing conditions, excellent protection (150) was achieved at lower concentrations of the nanocomposite, and zinc oxide nanoparticles individually enhanced the whiteness index (73). The results of the Kawabata Evaluation System showed that the finishing processes improved mechanical and performance properties (tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface roughness, thermal, and hand properties), indicating that all the finished fabrics offered enhanced functionality, thermal and comfort properties. Enhanced total hand value properties (3.7 for summer and 5.1 for winter) were realized by finishing, assuming the finished fabrics were applied to men's shirts and women's dresses for summer and winter apparel. Scanning electron microscopy and energy disperse X-ray spectroscopy analyses showed a uniform layer of zinc oxide nanoparticles and nano polyurethane on the fiber surface. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy confirmed the structural changes in the finished fabric. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The purpose of this research is to formulate a pattern of batik motifs on cloth measuring 115x210 cm which can be made into long-sleeved shirts of various sizes whose motifs are still sharp. The research was conducted using qualitative descriptive methods and participatory action studies. The descriptive method is to identify and develop a draft pattern, while the participatory follow-up method is to test the draft pattern by actively involving batik entrepreneurs, motif designers and tailors. The research was conducted at the Jalidin batik business, Sragen, and data were collected through observation, interview, FGD and document analysis techniques. The results of the research are a pattern of 210 batik motifs for long-sleeved shirts in the shape of a rectangle, the length of the pattern is 210 cm and the width of the pattern is 115 cm. This pattern is relevant for developing batik motifs with an efficiency of 16%, and the resulting batik fabric can be made into long-sleeved batik shirts in sizes S, M, L, XL and short-sleeved shirts in size XXL with strong motifs. The complexity (kesanggitan) of the motif is located on the front of the shirt, the left side, the right side, the pocket, as well as certain motifs on the cuffs and collar. The shirt motif pattern is very effective and efficient for developing random or a-symmetrical batik motifs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The 1950s and 60s in European film history is considered to be modernist period that was most explicitly manifested in the cinema of West European countries (France, Italy and others). Fragmentation of the narrative, loosening of linkage between events, innovative approaches in editing, foregrounding of subjectivity are only some of formal techniques characterizing the modernist aesthetics in cinema. In the soviet period of Latvian film history there are merely a few films in which one can identify modernist features. Basically, those are films by Rolands Kalniņš and in particular his feature film "Four White Shirts" (1967). By its form this film is very unusual in the context of Latvian film history and it resonated with the dominant trends in West European cinema in the 1950s and 60s. "Four White Shirts", as well as several other films by Rolands Kalniņš, like "Stone and Flinders" (Akmens un šķembas, 1966), and "Maritime Climate" (Piejūras klimats, 1974) were banned by censorship and never got to cinema screens and were practically "erased", eliminated from the Latvian cinema processes. The present research will be an analysis of the aesthetics of Rolands Kalniņš' film "Four White Shirts" (1967) focusing on those elements in the film that are typical for European modernist cinema. The return of the film "Four White Shirts" to the world cinema context took place half a century after it was made - its restored print was included in Cannes Film Festival programme Cannes Classics in 2018. The international premier of the film in 2018 enabled it to become the most renowned Latvian fiction film in Western Europe by revealing the internationally practically unknown modernist period of Latvian cinema in the 1960s that culminated in Rolands Kalniņš' film "Four White Shirts". The destiny of this film, the ban to screen it publicly affirms the fact that modernist aesthetics was considered to be unacceptable within the context of the soviet culture. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Augmentation-mastopexy is a frequent procedure with high rates of early recurrence of breast ptosis, mainly after subglandular approach. The dual-plane techniques, based on the cranial dissection of the pectoralis, is the most used, but this plane does not cover the inferior pole of the breast. Then, the possibility of a downward dissection of the muscle seems to be more reasonable to retain the implant and improve postoperative results. This study aimed to review the anatomy of the pectoralis in cadavers and the use of its downward dissection to create a pocket for breast implant as a "shirt pocket." This maneuver was associated with a superior-based dermoglandular flap to overprotect the inferior pole. No complications were related in the postoperative period. The anatomic review showed that the "shirt pocket" is a safe option if done carefully. The technique demonstrated to be feasible and seemed to be effective, being another alternative to prevent early recurrence of breast ptosis in these procedures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There is a desire in the forensic science community for a robust tool for detecting trace DNA at the crime scene or on collected evidence. Recent research supports the fluorescent DNA-binding dye Diamond Dye (DD) as potentially effective for this purpose. However, additional research is required into the use of DD on trace DNA samples collected from mock evidence (e.g. clothing) to establish its practicality in an operational setting. Most importantly, any tool for detecting trace DNA must have no negative impact on downstream processes and must produce a reliable signal of presence/absence of DNA. Therefore, we aimed to determine whether DD staining of tapelifts taken from mock clothing exhibits impacts DNA yield and STR profiling success, and whether observed fluorescence on stained tapelifts corresponded with DNA yield. Using a paired sample approach of stained/unstained tapelifts from the same item, our results suggest that DD-stained tapelift samples generally recovered less DNA than unstained tapelifts, which resulted in poorer STR profiling success. Further, there was no association between the degree of fluorescence observed for stained tapelifts and DNA yield or STR profiling success. Taken together, these results suggest that DD staining may not be suitable for detecting trace DNA on tapelifts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article deals with an analysis of the activities carried out by employees of a company in the textile sector focused on making shirts and located in the Alto Paranaíba region, Minas Gerais. The work aimed to carry out a diagnosis of the extent to which the company uses process management and understand how the concepts of quality are disseminated throughout the organization, with the aim of mapping the shirt production process in order to identify existing problems. The observations and interviews carried out in the company showed that it does not effectively use process management, and does not apply quality management tools. One of the main problems identified was the lack of standardization of the product, and through the tools used throughout the article, it was possible to propose improvements in order to contribute to the growth of the production and expand the authors' knowledge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Association Football (hereafter football) is a fast-moving sport in which rapid decisions need to be made; where are other players, are they on my team? Two experiments investigated how kit variations affect the search of teammates. Experiment 1 confirmed that discriminability is slower when playing in crossed kits (e.g., red shirts-blue shorts vs. blue shirts-red shorts), versus uniform kits (e.g., all red vs. all blue). Experiment 2 found that there is significant confusion when both teams wear the same-coloured shorts. Based on these findings, we suggest changes to the Laws of the game concerning kit colours. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper seeks primarily to survey the evidence for the involvement of Liverpool traders and dealers in the profitable slop trade supplying the Royal Navy and the ever increasing merchant fleet involved in the slave trade from Africa across the Atlantic. It will provide examples that suggest that Liverpool was ideally placed, fiercely independent and commercially dominant, to be able to seize a sizeable portion of the trade in ready-made slop clothing for its resident merchants and sailors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: This study investigated changes in appearance due to variations in the amount of ease allowance at the bust, waist and hips with ready-made women's shirts in two different styles. The authors also examined the suitable range for ease allowance with those two styles using a sensory test for evaluating appearance. Design/methodology/approach: The authors employed two women's shirts (samples I and II) in different styles (fit and straight). The authors modified the size of the bust, waist and hips with a changeable-size dress form using 1-cm intervals. The authors observed the shape changes. With the pictures at 2-cm intervals, the authors conducted a sensory test to evaluate appearance. 20 Japanese university students in their 20s made their assessments using seven items (wrinkles, fit, silhouette, beauty, fashionable impression, comfort and purchase intention) with a five-point scale. The proportion of subjects who scored 1 or more was 40% or greater when using ease allowance in the suitable range. Findings: The appropriate ranges of ease allowance differed according to the style and evaluation items. Regarding appearance and purchase intention with sample I from the front, the suitable range of ease allowance was 1–7 cm for the bust, 2–6 cm for the hips and 13 cm for the waist. From the side, the range was 0–6 cm for the hips and 7 cm for the bust. With sample II from the front, the suitable range of ease allowance was about 4 cm for all parts. From the side, the range was 11 cm for the bust and 4 cm for the hips. Originality/value: Using a dress form, the authors determined suitable ranges of ease allowance for two women's shirts in fit and straight styles with seven bust, six waist and six hip sizes. The authors found that the suitable range of ease allowance varied according to the style, direction and parts of the shirt. Our results can act as a guideline for designing and selecting ease allowance for women's shirts, taking into account comfort from appearance, purchase intention and beauty. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract Liquid chromatography with UV–Vis and mass spectrometric detection (LC–DAD–MS) was applied to the identification of dyes and biological sources in samples from nineteenth to twentieth century ethnographic textiles from ASTRA National Museum Complex, Sibiu, Transylvania. The objects are part of the Romanian traditional costume and are among the first to be acquired for the museum collections, around 1905. Oral and written information mention such objects as homemade, with nearby materials, while literature mentions a significant number of local vegetal sources as being used for textile dyeing. The analytical protocol developed, based on the combined use of the UV–Vis and mass spectrometric detectors to associate the information and distinguish between major and minor dyes, facilitates a clear attribution of the dyes and biological source/sources used. Other techniques, such as X-ray spectroscopy and FTIR-ATR were successfully used to identify inorganic dyes, which may not be detected by LC–DAD–MS, as was the case of Prussian blue. A large number of biological sources was identified in the studied objects, both local and imported. The local sources identified include dyer’s broom (Genista tinctoria L.), sawwort (Serratula tinctoria L.), young fustic (Cotinus coggygria Scop.), Rhamnus berries, emodin based dyes (Rhamnus, Rheum, Rumex sp.) and woad (Isatis tinctoria L.), in perfect correlation with literature which states that local dyes were still in use in the period under discussion. Carminic acid containing insects (Dactylopius coccus Costa and Porphyrophora sp.) and redwood type Caesalpinia species should be considered a result of trade. Almost all the natural and synthetic dyes detected are frequently mentioned in a collection of recipes published by the Romanian Academy, in 1914. The richness in colours in belts, the use of insect dyes in shirts decoration and the large amount of cotton in shirts are illustrative for the owners’ status. The study provides a better valorisation of the Romanian traditional costume as witness of the rural society at the end of the nineteenth to beginning of the twentieth century and emphasizes the usefulness of chemistry in cultural heritage dedicated applications.

Personal linens were key components of early modern health regimens. When they were visibly clean and bright white, linen shirtsleeves, collars and cuffs communicated the cleanliness of the wearer's body, as well as the state of their mind, morals and spirit. These functional garments and accessories could also be fashionable, especially when decorated with ruffles, lace and embroidery. Linens thus communicated hygienic, social, moral and financial information, which was generated by and reliant upon processes of laundry. This article explores some of these processes, especially as they pertain to linen shirts, cuffs and ruffs owned by non-elite people living in northern Italian cities. It brings archival, visual and material sources together with evidence generated through the re-creation of early modern processes of caring for clothing to show how 'doing the laundry' imparted linens with social and financial meanings and values. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This article is Part 2, the continuation from the title of "Review of Men's Shirt Pattern Development for the Last 100 Years, Part 1: The Bodice". A look back on how the shirt sleeve and cuff were developed in the last hundred years. A discussion on the future development of the sleeve and cuff patterns will be in the conclusion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Harry Styles is one of the most popular faces in the music industry, yet the scholarly discourse around him is lacking. Perhaps he is seen to be not worthy of study given his 'artificial' beginnings in a boy band created for the X Factor. However, the evolution of Styles has been a complex journey and his current presentation of fluid masculinity and fashion, undefined sexuality, and political activation, seem to demonstrate an original self. This article is a counter claim to the many ways that Styles has been constructed, instead presenting him as a cultural figure worthy of study. The discussion also contains discourse about the phenomenon and gender performance of boy bands, to explore Styles's evolution from a teenage heartthrob in chinos and polo shirts in 2010, to becoming the 2019 host of the Met Gala in a sheer blouse, heeled boots, and a pearl earring. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]