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From the end of the nineteenth century and one hundred years onward, home sewing was an important part of many women’s duties, but it was also a pleasure, something that existed parallel with the emerging mass-produced ready-to-wear industry. The paper patterns used for home dressmaking were often sold and distributed through women’s magazines. These pattern sections were both a kind of reader service and a conscious strategy to capture the female target group. This article, based on an analysis of three Swedish magazines, is the first in-depth survey of patterns for home sewing of women’s clothes in Sweden. The study shows how the magazines adapted to changes in society with increasingly easier patterns and ready-cut fabric for their readers. By highlighting women making their clothes in the home, this article contributes to an often-neglected area of women’s memory and fashion history.

In this original paper, the development of a paper-based, sensitive, low-cost, quantitative and consistent biosensor system was demonstrated for the suitable “naked-eye” detection of phenolic compounds (specifical catechol). The Paper-based system depends on the enzymatic color-changing reaction that observed by using chromogenic agent of 4-AAP (4-aminoantipyrine) which has a specific color changing reaction in the presence of horseradish peroxidase (HRP) enzyme, phenol and H2O2. The visual result was associated with the catechol concentration by using image processing software to evaluate the quantitative detection. The developed biosensor system demonstrated a linear detection range from catechol between 2,5 µM to 100 µM with 2.6% to 9.3 % of sd results. The detection limit was also calculated as 2,25 µM. Specificity, selectivity, stability and direct real sample analysis demonstrated the potential applicability of the developed paper-based biosensor system for catechol detection in food samples with minimal investment and an easy-to-use method.

The global reality of the COVID-19/Corona pandemic paradoxically boosted national politics, broadcasting and citizenship. Media coverage, especially initially, praised citizen solidarity and the creative solutions that were pioneered to care for each other. A year later, a lasting social learning curve throughout and after this crisis seems illusory. The pandemic, this paper argues, needs to be understood in a longer timeframe as the working through and coming to terms with neo-liberal governmentality. The (often hilarious) early responses on social media provide a strong entry to do so. Our focus will be on the Netherlands which had a so-called ‘intelligent’ lockdown during the first wave of COVID-19 in the spring of 2020. Using the authors’ own sharing back and forth of toilet paper memes as a starting point, we aim to explore the notion of collective self-reflection and citizen co-education underlying both heated and simply ridiculous posts. Using previous discussion of cultural citizenship, this paper inquires into how pandemic citizenship played out as a vast exercise in disciplining and distinction through jokes and anger. The material suggests a nostalgic turn that might point to an implicitly voiced critique of neoliberal governmentality.

In 2021, there are reportedly 2,755 billionaires on Earth, with an estimated total net worth of $13.1 trillion. Every year the newspaper Forbes conducts the list of World Billionaires, but we need to acknowledge that, not all billionaires and their wealth gets reported. Usually, the net worth is reported by calculating the number of stocks with the number of shares that the person owns. We take into consideration that the number we see in the newspaper exists only on paper, but the amount of money in the bank account of Billionaire does, not reflect that kind of wealth in any shape and form.Paper wealth differs from “real” or actual wealth, which is the value of the physical assets that are at the disposal of an individual or company. Many individuals and corporations fall victim to the paper wealth trap. On paper, it looks as though the assets logged are worth a certain amount, but the real assets in hand do not add up to the same. In order to assess, the real wealth individual has to realize the asset in the market by selling the asset mentioned below. If the taxpayer sells these assets, it has accumulated capital gains, then the taxpayer is subject to capital gains taxes.By using the tax planning strategy “Buy, Borrow, and Die” the wealthy individual avoids paying the capital gain tax on the assets that they have. This principle suggests buying and holding assets as they appreciate tax-free, as well borrow using the assets as leverage and using debt to reduce or eliminate income and estate taxes, and maximize aftertax wealth accumulation, as well after the taxpayer pass away the heirs, sell the whole wealth is tax-free, and the debt is paid with the tax-free proceeds.

Vocabulary is an essential component in learning a second or a foreign language. It is one of the most important aspects of obtaining all four language skills; reading, listening, speaking, and writing. Therefore, teaching and learning vocabulary should be done through various-interactive media so that children are interested in acquiring it. Integrating gamefication-based learning media can be utilised to support the teaching-learning vocabulary. In addition, Paper-Mode Quizziz can be used as a game-based learning platform offering multiple tools to make a classroom fun, interactive, and engaging in learning vocabulary. This research aimed at investigating the use of Paper-Mode Quizizz to improve students’ vocabulary at eighth grade students. This research was Classroom Action Research conducted at eighth grade students. The research subject was 8C grade students of SMP SSA Negeri Kloposawit 1 Candipuro. Further, this research was conducted in two cycles. In cycle I, the researcher found that the eighth-grade students’ vocabulary mastery was improved. The average score was 72,4. Further, in cycle II, the eighth-grade students’ vocabulary mastery was much better than in cycle II. the average score was 81,4. It showed that the use of Paper-Mode Quizizz profoundly improved the eighth-grade students’ vocabulary mastery. In addition, the students were more enjoyed, actively participated, highly motivated, and engaged with the use of Paper-Mode Quizizz in learning new vocabularies. In short, the implementation of Paper-Mode Quizizz profoundly improved the students’ vocabulary mastery at eighth-grade students in learning English.

This study uses content-based citation analysis to move beyond the simplified classification of predatory journals. We present that, when we analyze papers not only in terms of the quantity of their citations but also the content of these citations, we are able to show the various roles played by papers published in journals accused of being predatory. To accomplish this, we analyzed the content of 9,995 citances (i.e., citation sentences) from 6,706 papers indexed in the Web of Science Core Collection, which cites papers published in so-called “predatory” (or questionable) journals. The analysis revealed that the vast majority of such citances are neutral (97.3%), and negative citations of articles published in the analyzed journals are almost completely nonexistent (0.8%). Moreover, the analysis revealed that the most frequently mentioned countries in the citances are India, Pakistan, and Iran, with mentions of Western countries being rare. This highlights a geopolitical bias and shows the usefulness of looking at such journals as mislocated centers of scholarly communication. The analyzed journals provide regional data prevalent for mainstream scholarly discussions, and the idea of predatory publishing hides geopolitical inequalities in global scholarly publishing. Our findings also contribute to the further development of content-based citation analysis.

With increasing availability of near-complete, structured bibliographical data, the past decade has seen a rise in large-scale bibliometric studies attempting to find universal truths about the scientific communication system. However, in the search for universality, fundamental differences in knowledge production modes and the consequences for bibliometric assessment are sometimes overlooked. This article provides an overview of article and author characteristics at the level of the OECD minor and major fields of science classifications. The analysis relies on data from the full Web of Science in the period 2000–2020. The characteristics include document type, median reference age, reference list length, database coverage, article length, coauthorship, author sequence ordering, author gender, seniority, and productivity. The article reports a descriptive overview of these characteristics combined with a principal component analysis of the variance across fields. The results show that some clusters of fields allow inter-field comparisons, and assumptions about the importance of author sequence ordering, while other fields do not. The analysis shows that major OECD groups do not reflect bibliometrically relevant field differences, and that a reclustering offers a better grouping.

The variants of using the contents of the sedimentation maps of the Baikal pulp and paper mill in order to improve the ecological situation in the Baikal region are considered. It is shown that sludge-lignin can be used as a raw material to produce a variety of products

The problem of the influence of the contents of the sedimentation maps of the Baikal Pulp and Paper Mill on the ecological situation in the Baikal region is considered. Data on the com-position and properties of the contents of the drives are given. The factors threatening Lake Baikal are highlighted. Geographical and seismic characteristics of the locality of the dislocation of objects of environmental danger are given

Similar to many other countries, journalistic production in China during the first half of 2020 was dominated on a thematic level by the COVID-19 pandemic. The trend included the mouthpiece of the Central Committee of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP), Renmin Ribao. Its news and commentary articles, which are widely republished by other media, influence the country’s political life, and contribute to the process of meaning generation in the news discourse and to the CCP’s effort to align Chinese citizens to official narratives. Renmin Ribao can therefore provide a relevant source to investigate the relationship between political power and the COVID-19 pandemic, starting from the hypothesis that the paper’s narrative would aim at discursively turning the international health crisis into a piece of positive propaganda. This study aims to verify whether and how the paper did so, and to question the assumption that the outlet’s media discourse can be equated to the CCP official discourse. The research is developed as a case study and blends quantitative and qualitative tools grounded on Applied Linguistics, Discourse-Historical Approach, and Frame Analysis, in order to analyse a corpus of commentaries that have appeared in the outlet’s online edition in 2020. By applying a Genre Analysis approach, the study also offers insights into the possibility to identify distinguishing characteristics and communicative goals in the different sub-genres of Renmin Ribao commentaries.

Edition and study of P.Vindob. A.Ch. 36616, a literary paper fragment from 3rd/9th-century Egypt. The fragment contains a tradition that depicts ʿAlī b. Abī Ṭālib (d. 40/661) performing a four-rak ʿ a prayer and reciting a special supplication on the 15th of the month of Rajab. The tradition is only known from noncanonical Shīʿī ḥadīth collections. Situating it in a broader historical context, the paper provides a glimpse on the Shīʿī presence in Egypt as well as the sanctity of the month of Rajab in Sunnī and Shīʿī literatures. This tradition, in conclusion, presents an early evidence for the observances of the month of Rajab in general and the middle of the month in particular in the local Shīʿī community in pre-Fatimid Egypt.

This article situates Chinese paper children immigration during the Exclusion Era and the pre–1965 period in the combined framework of ancient Chinese adoption and transnational kinship formation. It examines, by reading paper children's oral histories and related sources, how the paper children system was rooted in, borrowed from, and modified ancient Chinese adoption practices, through which Chinese immigrants formed transnational, fictive kinship in the United States that were mixed with both blood and non-blood relationships. Since the Exclusion Era, a discourse about Chinese immigrants, especially paper children being illegal, was so powerful that immigration historians seldom question this assumption, even as they critique the institutionalized exclusion that created such illegality. This article, however, challenges this assumption by arguing that paper children immigration generated de facto adoptive relationships between paper children and their paper families, and that these adoptive relationships further sustained paper children's legal status as American citizens. Treating paper children as de facto adoptive members of their paper families, this article brings to the surface a fact that by emphasizing their illegality, the dominant discourse only acknowledged their hidden, original identities and deemed parent-child relationships based on blood ties as the only legitimate ones.

Within the Chester Beatty Library, Dublin, is a small, but especially interesting anthology of Persian poetry. Although the manuscript's colophon is missing, the stylistic evidence of its badly damaged illustrations and illuminations indicates that it was produced in Shiraz in the 1430s or 1440s. The discussion considers two unusual features of the manuscript, the first of which is that seven folios of a type of paper, generally thought to be of Chinese manufacture, are included among its 171 folios of otherwise Islamic paper. As is typical of this so-called Chinese paper, the folios are coloured—in this case an olive green—and one is decorated with a gold painted design of what appears to be an immature fruit of some sort, along with lobed leaves on a curling vine. Equally intriguing are the scenes and patterns, painted exclusively in gold, that fill the margins of the folios throughout the manuscript. No other such margins are known in any other contemporary manuscript.

Purpose/audience: this study targets designers, clinicians and biomedical engineers who are involved in digital surgical planning and patient-specific medical device design, either in hospitals, universities or companies. A commonly accepted, standardized design process does not exist in this specialized but highly variable field, and this can make regulatory compliance via the implementation of quality standards more difficult. Methodology/approach: an article-based design pro-forma was created based on needs identified in previous work. It was structured in order to broadly standardize the design process; consolidate planning and modelling behaviours into discrete clusters; anticipate decision-making on key product requirements; facilitate focused discussion with clients (surgeons); create a pleasurable experience for the designer; and encourage detailed reporting of design decisions and therefore to lower barriers to Quality Management System (QMS) implementation and adherence. The performance of the pro-forma was verified using observation, simultaneous verbalization and semi-structured interviews. Three participants across two contexts were observed designing without and then with the pro-forma. Their behaviours and comments were recorded, their designed outcomes evaluated and their quality compliance assessed. Findings: The design workflow was shown to be segmented and contained within distinct and repeatable steps when using the pro-forma. Reported participant confidence increased and stress decreased. Contact time between participants and clients was consolidated. Designed outputs and documented records successfully complied with generalizable aspects of the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) 13485 standard. However, it did not, and by definition could never, wholly implement a complete certifiable QMS, which must be tailored to a specific organization. Implications for practice, society or research: as demand for patient-specific devices continues to rise, and as regulatory requirements about QMS adherence extend to cover all contexts, organizations will need to react accordingly. This pro-forma offers a clear direction for how to introduce evidence-based best practices, and a starting point for full QMS certification. Originality/value: this research marks the first attempt to standardize this highly specialized design process across users, tools and contexts.

SYSTEMATIC BIBLIOGRAPHY OF PAPERS ON PUBLISHED DIALECT MATERIAL

This paper was written in 2013 as the faculty of the Reconstructionist Rabbinical College (RRC) was considering a policy barring prospective rabbinical students from being partnered with non-Jews. Composed by Rabbi Deborah Waxman, Ph.D., prior to her assuming the presidency of Reconstructing Judaism, it recommends that RRC set aside this policy and replace it with a clearly articulated preference that rabbinical students create for themselves homes with rich Jewish practice, and a requirement that children in the home be raised exclusively in the Jewish tradition. The recommendation emerges from a review of classical Reconstructionist positions as articulated by Mordecai M. Kaplan, the 1968 and 1979 Reconstructionist stands on patrilineal descent, the nature of religious authority, the impact of second-wave feminism on American Jewish life, and consideration of universalism versus particularism. The ultimate conclusion is that RRC’s mission is to attract Jews to Jewish living and not to police boundaries and that adopting a more inclusive partner status policy is an affirmation of key Reconstructionist principles, including fostering diverse expressions of Jewish identity and inclusive Jewish communities, and an authentic step in an evolving understanding of the Jewish civilization.

This essay examines early modern alba amicorum as collections of social and intellectual networks, personal memories, and other textual and visual materials. In what way are these ‘paper worlds’ related to collections of objects, and to networks of connections? How do they interact with other book and manuscript genres, such as the emblem and the costume book? Taking the album of the Dutch collector Bernardus Paludanus (1550-1633) as a case study, an argument will be made regarding the conceptual and material kinship of alba with other forms of manuscript and print collections. The intermediality and materiality of friendship books will be shown to be crucial aspects for understanding how this medium functioned within early modern cultures of collecting and the communal production of memory and knowledge.

What if the discursive and political recognition of queer liberation colludes with a nationalist agenda to produce a unified statehood? Postcolonial and transnational feminists have critiqued the political mobilization of GLBTQ rights within the context of nation-state modernity. The politics of queer inclusion and its institutional, normative production of subjects deemed to be (un)acceptable promote the modernity of progressive nations, but also justify state violations of sexual, religious, and ethnic minorities. This article examines Tomer Heymann's documentary film Paper Dolls and Arundhati Roy's novel The Ministry of Utmost Happiness to articulate how the queer subjects in both texts play a role in and resist Israel's and India's optimization of Jewish and Hindu nations. I juxtapose the film and the novel to demonstrate that their focus on nonnormative, gender-variant subjects works differently: the film absorbs nationalist paradigms, whereas the novel critiques Hindu nationalism and anti-Muslim ideology. I argue that queer world-making intervenes in the paradoxical exercise of the recognition of queer rights in the service of the exclusionary policies of emerging nationalisms.

For the past twenty years, director Tian Gebing and his Beijing-based independent artist collective, Paper Tiger Theater Studio, have pushed the boundaries of performance art and theater by probing, critiquing, and reconfiguring notions of the avant-garde. This article analyzes their recent production from 2017, 500 Meters: Kafka, the Great Wall, or Images from the Unreal World and Daily Heroism, highlighting the latent political and social ideologies of the Great Wall via parody and paradox within a decidedly postdramatic context in order to deconstruct Chinese political and social borders. I argue that 500 Meters moves the meaning of the immense border-demarcation line of the Great Wall from a discourse on political power to one of transcultural bonding. Consequently, the hybridity made possible through parody and paradox advances numerous possible alternative understandings of the Great Wall as variously a space of intercultural dialogue, a place of emotional connection with the other, and a surprisingly harmonious Babel where dominant dichotomies are subverted and even eliminated from the traditional, often coercive, and highly politicized understanding of borders.

Test construction is vital in the process of assessing students’ learning. This motivated researchers to investigate the multi-faceted nature of test construction. Interestingly, reviewed studies indicate the need to conduct continuous investigations on test construction given the different educational reforms and paradigm shift in education. With this premise, this study was implemented to determine the common types of tests given in English, Math, Science, Filipino, and Technology courses of industrial-technical students. It also determined the teachers’ committed violations on the rules, principles, and guidelines of test construction. Through content analysis of the test papers, the study found that the common types of test given to industrial-technical students are multiple choice, identification, and enumeration; essay, alternate response, and completion tests. In addition, the violations surfaced on basic principles in test construction, constructing test instructions, and writing multiple choice, identification test, enumeration; essay, alternate response, and completion tests. Hence, teachers need to diversify the types of tests given to students and follow the rules, principles, and guidelines in test construction.