Search

Made of recycled clothes, slaughtered animals, and felled trees, Bibles in Renaissance England were filled with visible traces of ecological matter, remainders that remind one that words on a page are thought fused with--and inflected by--matter. This essay places Henry Vaughan's poem "The Book" in a broader conversation about the poetics of paper: the rhetorical effects of the varied colors and qualities of paper used in the production of the vernacular Bibles that transformed reading practices in Renaissance England. Historical writers and readers, who were directly involved in a flax-to-rags-to-paper economy, recognized and commented on the natural resources from which cheap, widely distributed Bibles and other texts were made. Further, this essay models a reading strategy that attends to the natural history of books, to both the function and the form of the organic matter used to mediate human ideas. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Convolutional neural network-based detection models have been extensively applied in industrial production for monitoring the use of safety protection equipment, ensuring worker safety. This paper addresses scenarios in electrical operations where the safety protection requirements are more comprehensive and stringent. This paper proposes an improved detection model, ML-YOLOv8n-Light, based on YOLOv8n, targeting issues of low detection efficiency and large model size that make deployment challenging in current safety protection equipment-wearing detection models for electrical operations. Our model confronts the disparity in safety protection equipment sizes with a novel, lightweight multi-scale grouped convolution (MSGC) scheme integrated into the architecture. A lightweight adaptive weight downsampling (LAWD) mechanism is also fashioned to replace the traditional downsampling methods, optimizing resource consumption without sacrificing performance. Additionally, to enhance the detection fidelity of smaller items, such as insulated gloves, we added feature-rich shallow maps and a dedicated detection head for such objects. To enhance the detection efficiency of YOLOv8n, inspired by part convolution, we improved the spatial pyramid pooling fast (SPPF) and the detection heads. The experiments conducted on the custom dataset power safe attire dataset (PSAD) showed that compared to the original model, mAP50 increased by 2.1%, mAP50-95 by 3.1%, with a 29% reduction in parameters, an 18% reduction in computations, and a 23% compression of the model size. There are fewer detection omissions at long distances and under occlusion, fewer false positives, and computing resources are allocated more efficiently. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Combining online and offline data collection during six months of ethnographic fieldwork in Southern Mozambique in early 2021, this paper explores how media and its everyday use in the Global South are impacting on, and are in turn being transformed by China. It specifically looks into the creative and personalised ways in which Chinese-made garments are sold and promoted in Mozambique via the messenger service WhatsApp. Examining how Mozambican and West African traders use WhatsApp groups and status updates to mediate the fashionability of these Chinese goods, this paper shows that the consequences of Chinese interactions with the Global South on the global media landscape transcend the mere spread of Chinese hardware and software. Going beyond dominant, state-centred narratives of Chinese influence abroad, this paper demonstrates the key role of individuals and their agency in shaping the digital impact of Global China. By doing so, it also highlights the importance of analysing media practices in their specific local contexts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: The purpose of this article is to identify the ideological functions of economic theory using the historical case of the opinions of classical economists on the poor law as an example (treating ideological sets of ideas as justifications for the social order). Research Design & Methods: The research method adopted in this paper is an analysis of the text carried out in the context of its social function. Findings: The article analyses some moral and social aspects of the emergence of economic theory and shows classical economists' criticisms of the Old Poor Law as rationalisation of social prejudices of upper classes of society. The essence of the discourse of mainstream economists has been to show low moral resources in the working class as the cause of poverty, together with the thesis that social assistance perpetuates this condition. The opposite of these theories were John Barton's arguments, portraying welfare as an investment in the moral resources of the poor, allowing them to return to the ranks of working people. This dispute was forgotten for many years, but seems still relevant in the 21st century context. Implications / Recommendations: This paper supports the opinions of eminent scholars (like Blaug or Lindert) that the main problems with poverty are essentially the same in our times as in the 19th century. Blaming poor people for their poverty seems as familiar to us today as it was two hundred years ago. Thus the issue of the welfare state is more moral and political than it is theoretical. Contribution: This paper is a contribution to the identification of the role of social prejudice in the emergence of economic theory. Article type: review article. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The paper presents the application of MTM, RAV and ZAK methods in the determination of working methods and time norms for the technological process of sewing. The technological operation of sewing the back sleeve seam on a men's jacket is used for the study. The paper presents the designed workplace in a real production process. In addition, the appropriate working method and the time norm are determined using the MTM (Method Time Measurement), RAV (determination of sewing time for straight seams) and ZAK (determination of sewing time for curved seams) methods. The aim of the study was to combine the methods for determining different types of time (manual, machine-hand and machine) for performing technological operations and precisely calculate the time norms. For the described methods of determining the production time, computer programs were developed that speed up the calculation of the time norm. If the working method is defined in advance and the characteristics of the sewing machine are known, the time norm for each technological operation can be determined in advance. Based on these calculations, it is possible to determine the total time for the production of clothing in advance and thus to plan and schedule the production process and plan the delivery dates to customers. The results show that the technical equipment of the sewing machine and the working method have an influence on the structure of the technological sewing process. By choosing an appropriate working method, the workload and fatigue of the workers is reduced, as an appropriate number of auxiliary hand sub-operations are used. In this way, the appropriate time required to perform the technological operation is achieved. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Human gait recognition (HGR) is the mechanism of biometrics that authors extensively employ to recognize an individuals based on their walking traits. HGR has been prominent for the past few years due to its surveillance capability. In HGR, an individual's walking attributes are utilized for identification. HGR is considered a very effective technique for recognition but faces different problematic factors that degrade its performance. The major factors are variations in clothing, carrying, walking, etc. In this paper, a new hybrid method for the classification of HGR is designed called Stacked-Gait. The system is based on six major steps; initially, image resizing is performed to overcome computation problems. In the second step, these images are converted into grey-scale to extract better features. After that, the dataset division is performed into train and test set. In the next step, the training of the autoencoders and feature extraction of the dataset are performed using training data. In the next step, the stacking of two autoencoders is also performed. After that, the stacked encoders are employed to extract features from the test data. Finally, the feature vectors are given as input to various machine learning classifiers for final classification. The method assessment is performed using the CASIA-B dataset and achieved the accuracy of 99.90, 98.10, 97.20, 97.20, 96.70, and 100 percent on 000, 180, 360, 540, 720, and 900 angles. It is pragmatic that the system gives promising results compared to recent schemes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In studying individual consumption behavior, an important issue is the analysis of the relation between commodity expenditure and income. The subject of this paper is the analysis of clothing, footwear and housing consumption of households in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The aim of this paper is to quantify the impact of income on household expenditure for clothing, footwear and housing, with a focus on examining the validity of Second Engel's law in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Empirical research is based on the econometric modeling of Engel curves applying single equation modeling, using microdata from the Household Budget Surveys in Bosnia and Herzegovina, which are available for four years (2004, 2007, 2011, 2015). The surveys were carried out using the uniform methodology developed by the Statistical Office of the European Union (EUROSTAT). In order to achieve the research objective, six functional forms of Engel curves have been formulated and estimated. The intensity of the impact of income on relative changes in consumption was measured using income elasticities. Based on the estimated parameters and income elasticities derived from them, the hypothesis of unit elasticity of demand for the mentioned product groups in relation to household income was tested. Empirically estimated values of elasticities imply that the validity of the Second Engel's law in Bosnia and Herzegovina was partially confirmed: while clothing and footwear expenditures became elastic over time, expenditures for housing are inelastic in observed years. By comparing the estimated elasticities for different years in which the survey was conducted, it was revealed whether there were significant changes in the preferences of households in Bosnia and Herzegovina in the observed period. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Textile Industry / Tekstilna Industrija is the property of Union of Textile Engineers & Technicians of Serbia and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of VAD: Veredes, Arquitectura y Divulgación is the property of Alberto Alonso Oro and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

The main goal of this paper is to study a specific element of women's depicted costumes. Pictures on stone monuments present local, so-called native women wearing complex attire of cloth, headwear, brooches, jewels, and other dress accessories. Thirteen stone monuments from Hungary depict local women with headwear-related accessories. The main questions are: what kind of accessories are they, and how can we evaluate their presence on depicted attires? I collected analogous depictions from other Provinces and studied archaeological material. Finally, I concluded that these headwear-related accessories connect to new cultural effects and the complex phenomenon of acculturation. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: This paper aims to assess the impact of green supply chain management (GSCM) practices on the triple bottom line's economic, social and environmental performance of Sri Lankan apparel manufacturers. Design/methodology/approach: This quantitative study uses a deductive approach. The practice-based view is used to support the conceptual framework. The partial least square structural equation modelling technique empirically assessed the conceptual model using 164 responses from Sri Lankan apparel manufacturers through a structured survey questionnaire. Apart from examining the direct effects of GSCM practice on the triple bottom line, the study also investigated the moderating effects of firm size and duration. Findings: The results show that GSCM practices positively affect the organisation's triple bottom line while business size and duration moderate the said relationship. Research limitations/implications: The fact that this study is based on Sri Lankan apparel producers may impact the generalizability of the findings across different industries and countries. Furthermore, the survey only looked at export manufacturers. This raises questions about the results' relevance to other non-export groups of the current population with distinct characteristics. Practical implications: The paper provides insights for both academia and practitioners on the importance of adopting GSCM practices for the business performance of apparel manufacturers in Sri Lanka. The paper includes implications for devising strategic solutions for organisational performance and sustainability by using GSCM practices in apparel manufacturers in Sri Lanka. Originality/value: The research contributes to the body of knowledge in the GSCM field in general. This research also contributes to the limited literature on GSCM practices in Sri Lanka. To the best of the authors' knowledge, this is the first attempt to explain how apparel manufacturers in Sri Lanka are organised. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Poverty is a common challenge faced by human beings. China's Targeted Poverty Alleviation (TPA) policy provides the international community with a Chinese solution to poverty governance. Based on the goal of China's TPA policy of "Two No Worries, Three Guarantees," this paper selects appropriate indicators to evaluate the implementation effect of China's TPA policy since 2013. The results show that there are significant differences between poor families and non-poor families in food consumption, clothing consumption, education, and housing. After the implementation of the TPA policy, the gap between poor families and non-poor families has been significantly reduced. However, from the perspective of per capita household consumption, there is still a certain gap between poor families and non-poor families, and it is still necessary to maintain the continuity to further improve the living standards of low-income families. JEL Classification: I32 [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose -- This paper aims to calculate and analyze the Revealed Comparative Advantage index (RCA) of Vietnam's textile garment industry in the global supply chain by comparing it to other countries, thereby suggesting appropriate solutions. Method -- The research uses the calculation method of Revealed Comparative Advantage - RCA. RCA brings up an efficient method to analyze a nation's comparative advantage based on actual export activity data that were extracted from the TRADEMAP platform. Result -- Although Vietnam has many advantages and strong features, the RCA index (1.93) in this study shows that Vietnam's total textile garment supply chain ranks fifth on a worldwide scale, following Bangladesh (10.54), Turkey (3.81), China (2.55), and India. (2.47). The raw materials (RCA 1.65) and fabric production (RCA 1.29) phases are extremely weak, ranking sixth and fourth in the world, respectively. Making garments is the best, ranking third globally and with an RCA of 3.4. Contribution -- This research validates the usefulness and feasibility of the RCA calculation approach for analyzing the comparative advantages of Vietnam's textile garment supply chain, which has never been used previously. The research measured and quantified the benefits of Vietnam's textile garment supply chain in order to compare other rivals visibly, so readers can clearly grasp where Vietnam stands on the global textile garment supply chain. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the current era that consumers pursue personalized experience, in order to optimize the customer experience of new Chinese-style clothing products and improve the evaluation procedures of new Chinese-style clothing products, based on the theory of customer perceived value, this paper constructs the evaluation index and evaluation model of new Chinese-style clothing customer perceived value. This study is divided into three stages: firstly, through literature research and interview, thirty-seven elements of the evaluation index of customer perceived value of new Chinese-style clothing are defined; secondly, through questionnaire survey and exploratory factor analysis, seven dimensions of the evaluation index of the customer perceived value of new Chinese-style clothing were extracted, which were cultural and educational value, aesthetic value, creative value, green value, engineering value, social value, and quality value, respectively; thirdly, we propose a PSO-BP neural network to evaluate the customer perceived value of new Chinese-style clothing, and we choose twenty-two and eight new Chinese-style clothing as training samples and test samples, respectively. The experimental results show that the PSO-BP neural network can accurately evaluate the customer perceived value of new Chinese-style clothing, and its error is controlled by 2.5% compared with the traditional BP neural network. The research results show that enterprises can improve the quality of product design through the new Chinese-style clothing customer perceived value evaluation indicators and models, and then improve their sustainable competitive advantage, so as to achieve the sustainable development of the new Chinese-style clothing industry ultimately. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this paper, we construct a model for intelligent detection of lower limb posture fall prevention sensors, conduct an in-depth study of bright clothing for the elderly with smart detection of fall prevention, and design an article of colorful clothing for the elderly based on intelligent detection of lower limb posture fall prevention sensors. In this paper, the overall system scheme is determined according to the application, including the characteristic position of the device to be worn, the establishment of the reference coordinate system, and the setting of the overall system architecture. The data acquisition, transmission, and saving functions are realized, and the two-step extended Kalman filter, complementary filter, and DMP-Kalman filter are used to solve the posture angle of the measured object. The feasibility of the prototype was verified by testing the daily behavioral activity data and fall behavior data of the elderly, and the collected data were processed and analyzed by three data fusion algorithms, which proved the effectiveness of the algorithms, among which the DMP-Kalman filter algorithm has better performance. From the test results, the design of this paper can detect the posture angle of the human body more accurately, which provides a practical reference for fall detection equipment. Using clothing as a carrier, the fall detection and warning module is integrated with clothing to study an article of intelligent clothing for fall detection and warning for the elderly. A core issue in the integration process is the influence of the clothing on the detection module when the human body is moving. The effect of the material and loft of the clothing on the model is studied through experiments. The results of the two indexes, i.e., sensitivity and specificity, of the integrated model and the model not integrated with the clothing are around 98%. The experimental results of the material and loft of the clothing within a specific range have little influence on the model. The final intelligent garment design scheme was determined on this basis. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Slicing 3D polygonal meshes is a fundamental operation in various applications such as virtual surgery, garment simulation, and game development. Existing methods primarily slice meshes using either a single line or a set of line segments approximating a smooth curve. This paper introduces a novel approach to freely slice a triangle mesh using a freeform curve without discretizing it into line segments. The user draws a stroke on the screen, defining the desired cutting trajectory. Subsequently, a freeform curve approximating this stroke is generated and extended into a ruled surface in the user's viewing direction. To efficiently compute intersections between the ruled surface and a triangle mesh, the Line–Surface Intersection (LSI) problem is broken down into two subproblems: Plane–Curve Intersection (PCI) followed by Line–Line Intersection (LLI). Intersection points are then connected to form polylines, effectively cutting the mesh into multiple submeshes. To ensure the solidity of the submeshes, cross-sections are generated by trimming the ruled surface along the polylines and merged with the corresponding submeshes. Our method empowers users to slice triangle meshes along arbitrary trajectories encompassing both straight and freely curved paths while preserving efficiency and accuracy. The effectiveness of the proposed approach is demonstrated through experimental results showing various examples of mesh slicing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A very large number of scientific papers have been published in the literature on wearable antennas of several types, structure and functionality. The main focus is always antenna efficiency from an engineering point of view. However, antenna integration into actual, realistic garments is seldom addressed. In this paper, 2D pattern and 3D virtual prototyping technology is utilized to develop regular clothing, available in the market, in which wearable antennas are incorporated in an automated manner, reducing the chances of compromising the garment elegance or comfort. The functionality of various commercial software modules is described, and particular design examples are implemented, proving the efficiency of the procedure and leading the way for more complex configurations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Clothing recognition is a societally and commercially important yet extremely challenging problem due to large variations in clothing appearance, layering, style, and body shape and pose. In this paper, we tackle the clothing parsing problem using a retrieval-based approach. For a query image, we find similar styles from a large database of tagged fashion images and use these examples to recognize clothing items in the query. Our approach combines parsing from: pre-trained global clothing models, local clothing models learned on the fly from retrieved examples, and transferred parse-masks (Paper Doll item transfer) from retrieved examples. We evaluate our approach extensively and show significant improvements over previous state-of-the-art for both localization (clothing parsing given weak supervision in the form of tags) and detection (general clothing parsing). Our experimental results also indicate that the general pose estimation problem can benefit from clothing parsing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An original fully textile combiner is proposed to power supply sensors close to a body with only one centralized source of energy like a smartphone, for instance. A solution is provided for taking into account the requirements of an industrial production process that need to minimize needle movements during an embroidery process. Moreover, the paper shows how to support several wireless power transmission standards that already exist, i.e. NFC and A4WP, or will exist to satisfy the tremendous needs of energy for distributed systems in the IoT domain. In this paper, a new textile-based flexible wireless system enabling communication and energy harvesting is proposed. Analytical, numerical, and experimental studies have been conducted to demonstrate that the structure has two resonant frequencies at 6.8 MHz and 13.6 MHz, which make it suitable for NFC and A4WP standards. Moreover, the losses caused by the system are 2.76 dB and 1.91 dB for A4WP and NFC, respectively. The results are successively presented to highlight the specificities of such textile multi-coils combiners. A method for gaining a resonant structure without any solid electronic component is explained. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The clothing industry is currently focused on 3D virtual fitting. Many companies use size 12 as the core size; however, in recent years the average size has increased. For example, in the United Kingdom, the average size is now 16. Many companies have not updated their core size and often use size 12 as the size they are the most familiar with. The purpose of this paper is to compare real plus size body shapes with artificial avatars in relation to the fabric draping. This paper will investigate, how the body shape changes with an age (body height decreases, skin elasticity is lower, the shoulders are hunched, buttocks sag and fatness pockets are accumulated around the waist area). These factors are not considered in virtual avatars, but have a big impact on virtual fitting. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In the field of fashion design, designing garment image according to texture is actually changing the shape of texture image, and image-to-image translation based on Generative Adversarial Network (GAN) can do this well. This can help fashion designers save a lot of time and energy. GAN-based image-to-image translation has made great progress in recent years. One of the image-to-image translation models––StarGAN, has realized the function of multi-domain image-to-image translation by using only a single generator and a single discriminator. This paper details the use of StarGAN to complete the task of garment design. Users only need to input an image and a label for the garment type to generate garment images with the texture of the input image. However, it was found that the quality of the generated images is not satisfactory. Therefore, this paper introduces some improvements on the structure of the StarGAN generator and the loss function of StarGAN, and a model was obtained that can be better applied to garment design. It is called GD-StarGAN. This paper will demonstrate that GD-StarGAN is much better than StarGAN when it comes to garment design, especially in texture, by using a set of seven categories of garment datasets. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper proposes a novel origami-inspired adult diaper design that improves discretion by reducing sag and increasing wicking across the entire diaper pad. While other diapers rely on supporting elastics to reduce the sag of the diaper as a whole, this paper proposes an absorbent core that uses liquid activated shaping to take a specified shape. Origami-based folds are also incorporated into the diaper design to increase wicking performance. The paper introduces a disposable compliant mechanism waistband used to deploy the diaper, making it easier to put onto one's body. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An apparel product has a unique feature other than other products in that apparel product design must consider three categories of design requirements, namely function (governed by natural sciences), comfort (governed by ergonomics), and pleasure (governed by aesthetics and psychology). This paper proposes a general design theory for apparel products. The theory is based on Axiomatic Design Theory (ADT), which is for the functional aspect of products, particularly by adapting ADT to apparel product design, to which all the aspects (function, comfort, pleasure) need to be considered. The proposed theory is thus called the Axiomatic Design Theory For Apparel (ADT-FA). The ADT-FA has two axioms. Axiom 1 (apparel) concerns coupling in the design requirement, and Axiom 2 (apparel) concerns redundancy in the design parameter. The proposed theory is preliminarily validated with the Zoot suit, which is well known in the community of apparel design. The work opens an avenue for more validations in future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Aim: This scoping review investigated and descriptively summarised previous research about fundamental nursing, its focus (what care needs are described, how is it described and by whom is it described), continuity of care (is it described in relation to fundamental nursing) and possible nursing interventions or activities targeting older people's fundamentals of care needs in home- or facility-based care. Methods: This scoping review was carried out following the steps of Arksey and O'Malley's methodology and PRISMA-ScR reporting guidelines. Searches were conducted in PubMed via NIH, CINAHL via EBSCO and PsycInfo via ProQuest for the time period between January 2002 and May 2023. Results: Forty-two studies were included where the majority had been conducted in a facility-based care context. Nutrition—or rather nutritional care activities targeting eating and drinking—was the most frequently described fundamental care needs addressed. After this came personal care such as cleansing, dressing, oral care, skin, and foot care. Few studies addressed more than one fundamental care need at the time. The nursing staff described fundamental nursing as complex, comprehensive, and demanding. Older people and relatives described a gap between the fundamental nursing provided and their perceived need for support. Less attention was given to older peoples relational and psychosocial needs. Identified nursing interventions mainly targeted physical care needs. Our findings also implied that interventions focusing on fundamental nursing were described as feasible in practice with favourable or moderate results, while long-term effects were difficult to detect. No studies were identified focusing on fundamental nursing in relation to outcomes such as continuity of care. Conclusion: Fundamental nursing was mainly described in relation to physical care needs, which were essentially conducted within facility-based care contexts. Interventions and activities primarily focused on one fundamental need at the time, mainly within the physical domain. No nursing interventions were identified focusing on relational and psychosocial needs where continuity of care can be viewed as a relevant outcome. Such limited focus are especially concerning as research has highlighted the importance of that older people with complex care needs can benefit from a holistic and person-centred approach i.e. fundamental nursing. Trial registration: Open Science Framework https://doi.org/10.17605/OSF.IO/XJ39E Protocol: http://dx.doi.org/10.1136/bmjopen-2022-069798 [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Intense physical activity and high ambient temperature cause construction workers to be exposed to an increased risk of overheating, especially in the summer season. Personal cooling systems have great potential to support workers' thermoregulation and reduce this risk. In particular, solutions based on the thermoelectric effect can provide high cooling effectiveness and ergonomics at the same time. In this paper, a newly developed active clothing solution with flexible thermoelectric modules intended for outdoor activities is presented. The active clothing was subjected to utility tests on a treadmill under laboratory conditions with the participation of potential end users. A comparison of results from cooled and uncooled places indicated a reduction in local skin temperature of as much as 2.7 °C. Moreover, a gradual decrease in temperature in the uncooled place during the experiment was observed. Based on the positive results from this evaluation, the personal cooling system was integrated into active clothing within the ASSIST-IoT NGIoT reference architecture. This allows contextual and personalized adjustment of the cooling power to be provided using AI techniques and, additionally, by using data from a weather station and a smartwatch. Training procedures and models for the AI system are proposed, with special attention paid to the privacy aspect. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The shielding effectiveness (SE) of electromagnetic shielding (EMS) clothing is primarily achieved through experimental testing, but this method comes with drawbacks such as high cost, extended time, and imprecise testing outcomes. In order to quickly and cost-effectively obtain the protective performance of clothing, this article proposes a fast estimation method for the local SE of EMS clothing, which can quickly estimate the SE in the chest and abdomen regions through human body shape parameters. Firstly, an elliptical conical surface model is established for the chest and abdomen regions according to the shape of the human body. Following the principle of calculus, a local SE solution method based on this model is constructed. Additionally, a model correction coefficient that takes into account the impact of holes and seams is offered. Finally, a rapid estimation method is established for the SE of the chest and abdomen regions of the clothing. Experiments are ultimately designed to validate the model. In conclusion, the estimated values of the model are in agreement with the measured values, and it exhibits fast and efficient performance. This paper provides a new way to rapidly estimate the SE of EMS clothing in local areas and plays an important role in promoting the design, evaluation, and related detection of EMS clothing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A generally accepted approach to fashion design is to consider a complex system based on different parameters or basic elements such as shape and form, line, color, and textures and basic principles: proportion and scale, balance, unity (harmony), rhythm, and emphasis. The paper presents the most important elements that influence the impact and quality of a fashion collection: the sketch of the garment (color, shape, texture of the textile materials) and sustainability (as a consequence of circular economy), while the dematerialization and application of SWOT analysis, improve the economic yield. To better understand the vision of the specialists in fashion design regarding the most important elements that define a garment collection, 5 detailed criteria are presented. In this regard, the answers of the specialists involved in the designing and development of the new middle-price and middle-end fashion garment collection on a survey are presented and a ranking has been done. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The subject of the paper are the grave robes of the Polish King Zygmunt III Vasa, resting in the crypt in the Archcathedral Basilica of Saint Stanislaus and Saint Wenceslaus on the Wawel Hill in Kraków. The studies presented were possible thanks to an 'in situ' analysis of the clothes and a possibility of taking samples of textiles from which the clothing was sewn. The paper presents the results of a comprehensive textile analysis of fabrics, a description of the clothing that made up the funerary robes and analysis of the results obtained in the context of historical sources and works of art depicting the monarch. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Pós: Revista do Programa de POS-Graduacao Em Artes - EBA/UFMG is the property of Pos - Programa de Pos-graduacao em Artes (PPG-Artes) and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Garments are an important product in the history of human development. With the development of human history, there is also a constant reform and evolution of garments. As the bearer of historical culture in each period, the changes in the shape and production process of costume are the result of the continuous evolution of Chinese costume culture. Nowadays, historical artifacts from various dynasties are continuously unearthed, which are of great value for the study of ancient costumes. From the perspective of garment engineering and archaeology, this paper analyzes the representative costume-related artifacts of each dynasty, and through the understanding of the costume history and culture of each dynasty, 3D digital restoration of the costumes is carried out based on virtual fitting technology to show the more complete development of ancient costumes. It has a certain reference value for the study of the historical changes of ancient Chinese costumes, and it is also helpful for the preservation of ancient Chinese costumes and the promotion of ancient Chinese costume culture. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper deals with the stela of 'In-ḥeret-N...kht and his wife, now preserved in the British Museum London. This stela was found in Naga-ed-Dêr, Sohag, Upper Egypt and dated depending on the typological study of (Brovarski, E. The inscribed material of the first intermediate period from Naga-ed-Dêr) and other studies. The artistic features, such as the style of the pose of the deceased with his wife, the clothes, the ornaments, the shape of the offering table and the offerings on it and its arrangement, as well as the distinctive features of the hieroglyphic writing illustrated a scene such as the formula of ḥtp di nsw and its difference from the end of old kingdom and the first intermediate period to the middle kingdom. It was also dated from the titles of the deceased and his wife. Moreover, the present research paper provides a stylistic study of this stela of 'In-ḥeret-N...kht and paleographical and philological comments on its texts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The garments worn by the priests in the Temple not only present a stark image of "glory and splendor" (Exod 28:2) but present an accompanying theology, as well. This paper will focus on one theological strand—the idea that the priestly garments atone—in classical Judaism. It will demonstrate that, while the biblical account of priestly garments sees them largely as functional or as serving primarily in non-expiatory roles, late classical rabbinic (i.e., Amoraic) literature features an extensive tradition that these garments serve to atone for a variety of sins. This paper traces several versions of that tradition in exploring the expansive account of atonement found in these rabbinic texts and contextualizing that within other developments in classical Judaism and rabbinic literature. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There is a notable similarity between the objectives of Architecture and Fashion Design. Both disciplines aim to protect and establish a sense of identity for their users. Similarly, analogous design strategies may be employed. One such strategy is the fold. The act of folding a surface results in the formation of a three-dimensional volume. The intrinsic two-dimensionality of the surface gives rise to the formation of space, which is characterised by three dimensions. The air that is trapped by the envelope provides the necessary space for the users. In the context of clothing, the enclosed space is relatively limited and personal. In contrast, in the field of Architecture, the space is of a larger scale and serves a collective purpose, accommodating a variety of activities. Consequently, the processes of designing a building or a piece of clothing are analogous, differing only in terms of scale, time, and materials. The employment of the fold as a point of departure for architectural and Fashion Design projects entails a comparable design process in which concepts such as continuity, superposition, and faceting are associated with this folded mechanism. Consequently, the resulting outcomes, particularly those pertaining to mass and aesthetic perception, exhibit notable similarities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper studies quality upgrading to escape competition from low-wage countries and proposes a new channel that does not rely on access to new inputs or markets. Informed by Peruvian apparel firms' response to China's WTO accession, I introduce factor specificity in a multi-product-firm model. Profitability losses due to competition in low-quality segments induce firms to reallocate specific factors to produce high-quality varieties for high-income countries. Gains from this channel are large. Using an observed quality measure, I show that import competition substantially increases domestic firms' exports and high-quality export shares. Firms also reduce prices, resulting in additional welfare gains. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Washing machines (WMs) are common household appliances that help to save time and effort used in brushing and washing clothes. It is a common practice to use manually operated WMs, and based on their uses, WMs are classified into top and front open cloth washing machines, which operate based on an automatic control mechanism. In this paper, we present the design and simulation of an Arduino fuzzy logic-based WM control system, with an emphasis on improvement in its operating algorithm. Simulations were performed to determine the optimal time the WM takes to wash clothes, the maximum number of clothes the WM can wash per time, the acceptable dirtiness level of cloths, and the type of clothes that the machine can wash. The number of clothes to be washed, the degree of dirtiness, and the type of clothes govern the fuzzy logic control process adopted by the WM. The output voltage of the WM varies as the degree of dirtiness of the water varies from 0 to 1.95 V for very dirty water output from washed clothes and varies from 4 to 4.89 V for low-contaminated water. Another constraint considered was the load current, which increased as the number of clothes increased. The WM's operation time is determined by the amount of voltage and load current used during its operation. As a result, the control of the WM is dependent on the dirtiness level of the clothes and the amount of load. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Clothing is considered to be an important element of human social activities. With the increasing maturity of 3D printing technology, functional 3D printing technology can realize the perfect combination of clothing and electronic devices while helping smart clothing to achieve specific functions. Furthermore, the application of functional 3D printing technology in clothing not only provides people with the most comfortable and convenient wearing experience, but also completely subverts consumers' perception of traditional clothing. This paper introduced the progress of the application of 3D printing from the aspect of traditional clothing and smart clothing through two mature 3D printing technologies normally used in the field of clothing, and summarized the challenges and prospects of 3D printing technology in the field of smart clothing. Finally, according to the analysis of the gap between 3D-printed clothing and traditionally made clothing due to the material limitations, this paper predicted that the rise in intelligent materials will provide a new prospect for the development of 3D-printed clothing. This paper will provide some references for the application research of 3D printing in the field of smart clothing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The aim of this paper is to analyze the participation in the global textile and apparel value chain with special attention, first, to the case of three dynamic and interrelated economies (Mexico, the United States, and China); and second, to a general approach to a larger sample of countries through the analysis of trade in value added. From the descriptive analysis, a high domestic share in each country's exports is found. However, China is the leading exporter in the industry, accounting for around a third of the domestic value added in the global textile final demand. An econometric estimation has also been carried out to observe the effects of tariffs, FDI, and labor costs on the total and backward participation in the textile GVC. In this case, the sample has been extended to 39 developed and 22 developing countries. The results reveal tariff protection as a determinant of the degree of participation of the sector, especially when backward participation and developing economies are considered. However, FDI and labor costs only show the expected results in the case of developing countries. This may be due to the different tasks performed by developing economies (primarily manufacturing) versus developed economies (branding, design) within the sector's value chain. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The Chinese nation has a long cultural history and has deep attainments in food, clothing, art, and other cultural fields. With the development of science, technology, economy, and culture, new materials continue to appear, providing new ideas for clothing design. Polypyrrole is a common conductive polymer. The pure pyrrole monomer presents a colorless oily liquid at room temperature, slightly soluble in water and nontoxic. Nanocrystals, also called nanoscale crystals, use high-energy polymer spheres to pack calcium, magnesium ions, and bicarbonate in water to produce a water-insoluble crystal structure. Conductive composite materials mainly refer to composite conductive polymer materials, which are composed of polymers and various conductive substances through a certain composite method. This article aims to study the application of polypyrrole cellulose nanocrystalline composite conductive material in clothing design. Starting from the structural characteristics of the polypyrrole cellulose nanocrystalline composite conductive material, this article uses case analysis to study deeply the suitable polypyrrole cellulose nanocrystalline composite conductive material. This article can effectively use the innovative application method of its appearance style, so as to realize its application in clothing design. Starting from the functional properties of the polypyrrole cellulose nanocrystalline composite conductive material, the specific application of the polypyrrole cellulose nanocrystalline composite conductive material in different clothing designs is analyzed. Combining the postmodernist clothing style characteristics, aesthetic habits, and the characteristics of polypyrrole cellulose nanocrystalline composite conductive materials, this paper studies the innovative style design of polypyrrole cellulose nanocrystalline composite conductive materials. The experimental results in this paper show that when the reaction time is 2 min, the reaction rate at this time is zero, indicating that this time is in the initial stage of the reaction. After 4 minutes, as the reaction time increases, the reaction rate shows an increasing trend; when the reaction time is longer than 10 minutes, the reaction rate increases slowly and has a downward trend, which indicates the end of the reaction. The highest average reaction rate is about 7.5 mg/min. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Person reidentification across nonoverlapping camera views is a rather challenging task. Due to the difficulties in obtaining identifiable faces, clothing appearance becomes the main cue for identification purposes. In this paper, we present a comprehensive study on clothing attributes assisted person reidentification. First, the body parts and their local features are extracted for alleviating the pose-misalignment issue. A latent support vector machine (LSVM)-based person reidentification approach is proposed to describe the relations among the low-level part features, middle-level clothing attributes, and high-level reidentification labels of person pairs. Motivated by the uncertainties of clothing attributes, we treat them as real-value variables instead of using them as discrete variables. Moreover, a large-scale real-world dataset with 10 camera views and about 200 subjects is collected and thoroughly annotated for this paper. The extensive experiments on this dataset show: 1) part features are more effective than features extracted from the holistic human bounding boxes; 2) the clothing attributes embedded in the LSVM model may further boost reidentification performance compared with support vector machine without clothing attributes; and 3) treating clothing attributes as real-value variables is more effective than using them as discrete variables in person reidentification. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper reports on an experimental investigation of thermophysiological and psychological responses during and after an incremental low- to high-intensity exercise at 27 °C and 45% humidity. Five t-shirt garments were produced from different yarn types, their weights and yarn counts were close to each other. During the wear trials, heat and humidity sensors were placed at four body locations (the chest, back, abdomen, and waist). In addition, dynamic comfort measurements of the upper body were examined using a datalogger and subjective rating scales. This study aimed to investigate the effects of garment type on aerobic performance, microclimate temperature and humidity values, and psychological comfort. It was observed that the relative humidity and temperature of the microclimate were low in fabrics with high air permeability and low thermal resistance values of the Tencel single jersey and polyester mesh knitted fabrics. There was a significant difference in microclimate temperature results of TS coded Tencel single jersey t-shirt sample and other t-shirt samples according to statistical analysis results. On the other hand, the statistical results of the PM coded fabric sample measured at lower humidity in the three body regions were found to be a significantly different from those of the other samples (except TS). Although not statistically significant, the VO2 values and heart rates of these fabrics were lower than those of other fabrics. It was concluded that garments made from Tencel single jersey (TS) and polyester mesh (PM) fabrics affected the performance of athletes positively. Athletes were less forced during the training, and the activity could be maintained more than the others when wearing these clothes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Electro-stimulation to alleviate spasticity, pain and to increase mobility has been used successfully for years. Usually, gelled electrodes are used for this. In a garment intended for repeated use such electrodes must be replaced. The Mollii-suit by the company Inerventions utilises dry conductive rubber electrodes. The electrodes work satisfactory, but the garment is cumbersome to fit on the body. In this paper we show that knitted dry electrodes can be used instead. The knitted electrodes present a lower friction against the skin and a garment is easily fitted to the body. The fabric is stretchable and provides a tight fit to the body ensuring electrical contact. We present three candidate textrodes and show how we choose the one with most favourable features for producing the garment. We validate the performance of the garment by measuring three electrical parameters: rise time (10–90%) of the applied voltage, net injected charge and the low frequency value of the skin–electrode impedance. It is concluded that the use of flat knitting intarsia technique can produce a garment with seamlessly integrated conductive leads and electrodes and that this garment delivers energy to the body as targeted and is beneficial from manufacturing and comfort perspectives. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

There is a lack of high correlation and reuse potential among multiple manufacturing data for textiles and apparel. Moreover, the material flow traceability between production workstations is not clear, making it difficult to detect potential production bottlenecks. This paper proposes a knowledge graph embedded time serial data-driven bottleneck analysis of textile and apparel production processes. Firstly, a dynamic information association model is established to organize global manufacturing information, including the static data and time-series data features. Also, a textile-corpus-oriented knowledge extraction model is designed to construct a time-series knowledge graph for textile and apparel production (TKG4TA). Then, a temporal knowledge-driven production process bottleneck prediction model is presented based on manufacturing knowledge in the textile and apparel industry. Of these, textile knowledge is transformed into embeddings using a graph convolutional network (GCN). In turn, the context-associated information features are learned by the long short-term memory (LSTM) to predict the bottlenecks in the textile and apparel production process. Finally, a typical process flow in a shirt manufacturing workshop is used as a case study. It shows that the F1 value of the proposed method for named entity recognition and relationship extraction is up to 80.3%, and 50.6%, respectively. The performance of the proposed model for bottleneck prediction is improved by 8.2% and 14.92% compared to only the use of GCN or LSTM in the mean absolute error. This model may provide a solid foundation for the temporal knowledge-graph-driven bottleneck analysis of shirt manufacturing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]