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From the end of the nineteenth century and one hundred years onward, home sewing was an important part of many women’s duties, but it was also a pleasure, something that existed parallel with the emerging mass-produced ready-to-wear industry. The paper patterns used for home dressmaking were often sold and distributed through women’s magazines. These pattern sections were both a kind of reader service and a conscious strategy to capture the female target group. This article, based on an analysis of three Swedish magazines, is the first in-depth survey of patterns for home sewing of women’s clothes in Sweden. The study shows how the magazines adapted to changes in society with increasingly easier patterns and ready-cut fabric for their readers. By highlighting women making their clothes in the home, this article contributes to an often-neglected area of women’s memory and fashion history.

The cultural background of the proliferation of early paper in Central Asia and its use outside China has rarely been explored. Since written sources are inconclusive regarding the origins and spread of papermaking, archaeological and material evidence assumes increased importance. The preserved manuscripts found along the Silk Road have been used as a key source in the study of religion, literature and the cultural history of Central Asia. They have, however, rarely been viewed as artefacts in their own right, with their own specific form and produced by a specific technology. Paper is one of the most important physical aspects of a manuscript and at the same time bears witness to early papermaking technologies. As an introduction to the vol­ume Asian paper as writing support, this article outlines the early history and technology of pa­permaking as revealed by the oldest manuscripts in existence, those found along the Silk Road.

This paper analyzes the southeastern Connecticut Eastern Pequot Tribal Nation’s battle with cultural erasure and resistance through education. Indigenous education programs are gradual yet the most effective method of resisting Western cultural erasure from the United States government, because they peacefully invite both Natives and non-Natives to learn about Native American history outside of European colonizer textbooks. The Tribe battles the erasure that can result from external parties’ ability to grant state or federal titles recognizing tribal authority (known as recognition titles) to determine who receives the powerful stamp of Indigeneity and the right to self- govern. My case study focuses on the Eastern Pequots Archaeology Field School project in collaboration with University of Massachusetts, Boston. I evaluate how the Eastern Pequots use a collaborative archaeology education program with their Tribal members and non-Native individuals to resist erasure by decolonizing Western pedagogy. The Field School has gathered over 99,000 artifacts over 15 seasons that dismantle common misconceptions of how Native Americans lived during the beginning of the United States’ history and redefine modern beliefs about how Natives survived European colonization. The Field School contributes to expanding brief descriptions of Native history into a more complicated and dynamic story that elaborates on Native struggle, survival and resistance.

The data in the related digital archive was collected to examine the archaeological and historical evidence for material culture in English medieval rural households, with the aim of gaining a fuller picture than what might be attainable by looking only at objects or documents in isolation. The digital archive provides a starting point for anyone wishing to research aspects of medieval rural settlement.

The data provide significant opportunities for new investigations. The data are structured in such a way that each of Jordan's studies can be replicated spanning Khanty, Coast Salish, and various Indigenous Californian technological traditions.

How the International Consortium of Investigative Journalists (ICIJ) makes digging through gigantic amounts of documents and data more efficient.

Infectious diseases at pandemic level have had a devastating impact on humanity for many centuries. [...]understanding and managing the vectors and factors that propagate these diseases is paramount to human survival. The author examines a plethora of factors that exacerbated the Ebola crisis, that future students of public health and policy making could study with reference to combatting pandemics. In addition to the individual experiences of these healthcare workers, the book also catalogs the relationship between the West African governments (Liberia, Sierra Leone, and Guinea) and Cuba as well as the developed world and the rest of the world.

Introduction: The paper “Moluscos de la Isla del Coco” (Mollusks of Cocos Island) published in the Revista del Colegio Superior de Señoritas (1935) is the translation to Spanish of one of the last works of Paul Biolley Matthey (1862-1908), Swiss naturalist that lived in Costa Rica. This article was one product of a malacological research carried out during a scientific expedition organized by the ‘Instituto FísicoGeográfico Nacional de Costa Rica’ (IFGN) in 1902 to Cocos Island, at a time when the country claimed its sovereignty both in this territory. Objective: To analyze the contributions of the article “Moluscos de la Isla del Coco” from the Social History of Science approach. Methods: Most of the researches that have applied this approach in Costa Rica analyze processes of institutionalization of scientific disciplines. The methodology used in these works was very useful for the analysis of the Biolley article, together with the information of historical data provided by other texts about Cocos Island and the development of scientific research in Costa Rica from a temporal perspective. In addition, tables were made to synthesize the classification of the species and genera studied by Biolley in Cocos Island to identify their provenance and the habitat in which they lived. Results: This study of Biolley constitutes a text of interest from the point of view of the Social History of Science, due to the descriptions it offers of the physical conditions of the territory of Cocos Island, of the different species of mollusks located in them and to the exchange of information with national and foreign scientists that show the participation of Biolley in scientific networks. Conclusions: The analysis of the information with the Social History of Science approach, concludes that the compilation of the flora and fauna permits a greater knowledge of the natural resources of the explored territories, in order to colonize them and integrate them into the economic dynamics of the Central Valley of Costa Rica. However, attempts colonize Cocos Island failed given the distance between this and the continent, in addition to the topographic conditions that prevent the permanent establishment of human populations and their productive activities. Introducción: El artículo “Moluscos de la Isla del Coco” publicado en la Revista del Colegio Superior de Señoritas (1935) es la traducción al español de una de las últimas obras de Paul Biolley Matthey (1862-1908), naturalista suizo radicado en Costa Rica, producto de una investigación malacológica efectuada en el marco de una expedición científica organizada por el Instituto FísicoGeográfico Nacional de Costa Rica (IFGN) en 1902, en una época en que el país reivindicaba su soberanía tanto en este territorio como en las zonas periféricas fronterizas. Objetivo: Analizar los aportes del artículo “Moluscos de la Isla del Coco” desde el enfoque de la Historia Social de la Ciencia. Métodos: La mayor parte de las investigaciones que han aplicado este enfoque en Costa Rica analizan procesos de institucionalización de disciplinas científicas. La metodología empleada en estos trabajos fue de gran utilidad para el análisis del artículo de Biolley, junto con la información de datos históricos proporcionados por otros textos sobre la Isla del Coco y el desarrollo de la investigación científica en Costa Rica desde una perspectiva temporal. Además, se hicieron tablas que sintetizan la clasificación de las especies y géneros estudiados por Biolley en la Isla del Coco para identificar su procedencia y el hábitat en el que viven. Resultados: Este estudio de Biolley constituye un texto de interés desde el punto de vista de la Historia Social de la Ciencia, debido a las descripciones que ofrece de las condiciones físicas del territorio de la Isla del Coco, de las diferentes especies de moluscos localizadas en ellas y al intercambio de información con científicos nacionales y extranjeros que evidencian la participación de Biolley en redes científicas. Conclusiones: Al analizar la información proporcionada por el artículo con los trabajos basados en el enfoque de la Historia Social de la Ciencia, se llegó a la conclusión que la recopilación de los datos de flora y de fauna permitió tener un mayor conocimiento de los recursos naturales de los territorios explorados, con el fin de colonizarlos e integrarlos a la dinámica económica del Valle Central de Costa Rica, sin embargo, los intentos para efectuar una colonización efectiva de la Isla del Coco fracasaron dada la distancia entre esta y el continente, además de las condiciones topográficas que impiden el establecimiento permanente de poblaciones humanas y sus actividades productivas. Universidad de Costa Rica/[805-A9-742]/UCR/Costa Rica Universidad de Costa Rica/[805-A4-906]/UCR/Costa Rica UCR::Vicerrectoría de Investigación::Unidades de Investigación::Ciencias Básicas::Centro de Investigaciones Geofísicas (CIGEFI)

The current issue of Therya includes a number of papers honoring the legacy and notable contributions of Dr. Sydney Anderson (1927-2018) to Bolivian and Neotropical mammalogy. “El Doc,” as he was warmly referred to by hordes of Bolivians scientists and students, played a central role in the coming of age of mammalogy in Bolivia. He influenced many aspects of this development, from using his own personal funds to purchase traps and museum cases for the then mammal collection of the Bolivian Museum of Natural History, to serving as a towering example of an unassuming mammalogist who loved and honored his science so much that he enjoyed going out camping and trapping in remote areas of Bolivia for almost three decades from 1964 to 1992, and until he was well into his late 60s.

The peopling of Remote Oceanic islands by Austronesian speakers is a fascinating and yet contentious part of human prehistory. Linguistic, archaeological, and genetic studies have shown the complex nature of the process in which different components that helped to shape Lapita culture in Near Oceania each have their own unique history. Important evidence points to Taiwan as an Austronesian ancestral homeland with a more distant origin in South China, whereas alternative models favor South China to North Vietnam or a Southeast Asian origin. We test these propositions by studying phylogeography of paper mulberry, a common East Asian tree species introduced and clonally propagated since prehistoric times across the Pacific for making barkcloth, a practical and symbolic component of Austronesian cultures. Using the hypervariable chloroplast ndhF-rpl32 sequences of 604 samples collected from East Asia, Southeast Asia, and Oceanic islands (including 19 historical herbarium specimens from Near and Remote Oceania), 48 haplotypes are detected and haplotype cp-17 is predominant in both Near and Remote Oceania. Because cp-17 has an unambiguous Taiwanese origin and cp-17-carrying Oceanic paper mulberries are clonally propagated, our data concur with expectations of Taiwan as the Austronesian homeland, providing circumstantial support for the "out of Taiwan" hypothesis. Our data also provide insights into the dispersal of paper mulberry from South China "into North Taiwan," the "out of South China-Indochina" expansion to New Guinea, and the geographic origins of post-European introductions of paper mulberry into Oceania.

Dans la dernière décennie de sa vie, Harold. A. Innis a rassemblé un grand nombre d’écrits sous le titre : A History of Communications. L’extrait publié est pris dans la première section du chapitre IV, consacré à « l’avènement du papier », qui commence avec son apparition en Chine « remontant à 105 apr. J.-C. » et se termine par la diffusion en Occident de la fabrication du papier au cours du Moyen Âge. Si l’industrie du papier et sa diffusion sont au coeur de la démarche d’Innis, il s’attache aussi particulièrement aux technologies conjointes de la production d’encre et de la xylographie ainsi qu’à l’introduction des caractères mobiles. Il repère également les débuts de l’expansion du papier et de l’imprimerie dans ses différents contextes socio-culturels : la Chine, l’Inde, la Corée, le monde musulman, l’Europe. Après avoir montré en détail comment la fabrication du papier s’est implantée en Europe — en tant que formidable rival du parchemin —, Innis examine le lien entre le papier et un large spectre d’autres évolutions significatives, telles que le développement du crédit, le retour à l’Antiquité, la Réforme et la naissance de l’État moderne., During the last dozen years of his life, Harold A. Innis assembled a massive set of writings entitled A History of Communications. The excerpt published here is from the first section of Chapter IV, “The Coming of Paper,” which begins with the production of paper in China “as early as 105 A.D.” and concludes with the westward diffusion of paper-making during the Middle Ages. While the manufacture of paper and its spread is at the centre of Innis’s discussion, he gives considerable attention to the related technologies of ink production, block printing, and the introduction of movable type. He also traces the onset of paper and printing within a number of different socio-cultural contexts, including China, India, Korea, the Muslim world, and Europe. After detailing how the paper-manufacturing process gained a foothold in Europe—becoming a formidable rival to parchment—Innis examines how paper was linked to the broader process of key developments such as the extension of credit, the revival of antiquity, the reformation of the Church, and the rise of the modern state.

The paper examines the relationship between indigenous knowledge and heritage documentation efforts generated by scientists and other forms of local activities that work in strengthening indigenous cultural identity and tradition. As the studies in indigenous heritage and environmental knowledge have become one of the fastest-growing fields in northern cultural research, there is tough competition for limited resources and, even more, for the time, goodwill, and attention of northern constituencies. Scholarly projects in heritage and knowledge documentation represent just one stream within today's public efforts, though an important and visible one. Those projects do have an impact in local communities; but such impact is often subtle, circumstantial, and may not be sustainable when left standing on its own. Local knowledge, very much like active language, relies primarily on oral transmission, family ties, community events, and subsistence activities. As long as those prime channels of cultural continuity are working, “our words put to paper”—knowledge and heritage sourcebooks, school materials, and catalogs—should be regarded as long-term cultural assets that may play a crucial role in the transformed northern societies of today and of tomorrow., L’article étudie la relation entre les savoirs autochtones et les efforts de documentation du patrimoine générés par des scientifiques et d’autres formes d’activités locales qui travaillent à renforcer l’identité et la tradition culturelle autochtones. Alors que les études sur le patrimoine autochtone et les savoirs environnementaux sont parmi les champs de recherche en culture nordique les plus rapides à s’être développés, la compétition est rude pour des resources limitées et, plus encore, pour le temps, la bienvaillance et l’attention des circonscriptions du nord. Des projets scientifiques sur le patrimoine et la documentation des savoirs ne représentent qu’un courant parmi l’effort public actuel, mais il est important et visible. Ces projets ont bien un impact sur les communautés locales ; toutefois un tel impact est souvent subtil, indirect et n’est sans doute pas viable une fois abandonné à l’auto-gestion. Les savoir locaux, tout comme les langues vivantes, reposent principalement sur la transmission orale, les liens familiaux, les évènements communautaires et les activités de subsistance. Aussi longtemps que ces canaux principaux de continuité culturelle fonctionnent, «nos mots transcrits sur papier» — les livres sources des savoirs et du patrimoine, les documents scholaires, et les catalogues — doivent être considérés comme des avoirs culturels à long terme qui jouent et joueront peut-être un rôle essentiel dans les sociétés nordiques transformées d’aujourd’hui et de demain.