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Hop, whose scientific name is Humulus lupulus L., is a species of the family Cannabaceae, with climbing, perennial and dioecious characteristics of great importance due to its compounds of interest such as polyphenols and acids. The female inflorescences have glands that secrete mainly lupulin. Hop is known worldwide as an essential raw material and flavoring agent in beer production. Phytochemical compounds from the plant such as xanthohumol, humulone and lupulone have also been used in cosmetics. Moreover, the plant has beneficial properties -anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant. The area of Bragança (Trás-os-Montes) is rich in spontaneous hop and cultivars. The samples of spontaneous hop were collected in different areas of the Bragança district and were analyzed and compared to the varieties of cultivars (Nugget, Polaris, Cascade, Centennial and Chinook). The volatiles extracted from the female cones, in a LikensNickerson system, were analyzed by GC and GC-MS. The α- and β-acids, from where extracted with calibration standard ICE-3 and analyzed by HPLC. Characterization of α- and β-acids, and of the phenolic profile of the Hop samples, was also performed by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MSn. The cultivars and their respective spontaneous varieties showed similarities in the monoterpenic component, with β-myrcene as the main compound. Regarding HPLC analyses, cultivars showed total values about 15% of α-acids and about 4% of β-acids, while the spontaneous variety showed 7% of α-acids and 9% of β-acids, corresponding to the compounds cohumulona, humulone, colupulona, lupulona and xanthohumol. Quercetin and kaempferol glycosides were also present in some extracts as minor compounds. Thanks to FCT (Portugal) and the ERDF under the PT2020 Program for financial support to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020 and CMFPE1; EXPL2021CIMO_06) and LAQV-REQUIMTE (UIDB/50006/2020). info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion

Resveratrol (RSV) is a functional ingredient with numerous bioactive properties, but precautions should be considered in the formulation of liquid food products due its poor solubility and bioavailability. In this context, cyclodextrin complexes are a viable solubilisation strategy, already applied in delivering hydrophobic compounds [1]. This study aimed at evaluating the use of and -cyclodextrin complexes with RSV (-CD-RSV and CD RSV, respectively) on rice beverages (BA), concerning the impacts on RSV solubility and bioaccessibility., Thanks to the project NETDIAMOND (POCI-01-0145-FEDER-016385), to the University of Aveiro, FCT/MEC for financial supporting LAQV-REQUIMTE (UIDB/50006/2020), through national funds and co-financed by the FEDER, within the PT2020 Partnership Agreement. Andreia Silva acknowledges FCT for the Ph.D. grant SFRH/BD/142100/2018. Susana Cardoso thanks the research contract under the project PTDC/BAA-AGR/31015/2017., info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion

The fractionation of the methanolic extract (MeOH-E) of Retama raetam (Forssk.) Webb &amp, Berthel and further analysis by thin layer chromatography resulted in four fractions (F1, F2, F3 and F4) that, in parallel with the MeOH-E, were screened for antioxidant, cytotoxic, antidiabetic and antibacterial properties. In addition, chemical characterization of their bioactive molecules was performed using LC-DAD-ESI/MSn. The results indicated that F3 was the most promising regarding antioxidant and cytotoxicity abilities, possibly due to its richness in flavonoids class, particularly isoflavones. In turn, F1 was characterized by the presence of the most polar compounds from MeOH-E (organic acids and piscidic acid) and showed promising abilities to inhibit α-amylase, while F4, which contained prenylated flavonoids and furanoflavonoids, was the most active against the tested bacteria. The gathered results emphasize the distinct biological potentials of purified fractions of Retama raetam.

Nowadays there is an increasing interest in the search for bioactive compounds obtained from aromatic and medicinal plants. Hop (Humulus lupulus L.) is known worldwide as an essential raw material for the beer industry, however, recent studies have revealed health benefits. In the beer production process, only the cones of hop are used, while the vegetative part of the plant is discarded and not valorized albeit its richness in interesting compounds. In this work, we have studied the phytochemical profile of polar extracts of hop and of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis, and further evaluated their antibacterial and antifungal capacities. Moreover, gel formulations incorporating distinct levels of hop extracts (1.25%, 2.5% and 5%) from cones and vegetative parts of the varieties Nugget and Polaris of hop and spontaneous hop, combined with essential oil of Thymus zygis subsp. zygis, were developed and the stability of the new cosmetic products was evaluated. UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 analysis was used for phytochemical study of hydroalcoholic hop extracts. The antimicrobial properties of these extracts and of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis were determined by microdilution broth method and the diffusion in agar test. Additionally, the stability of the gel formulations was evaluated through a series of physical-chemical tests such as the pH, density, texture evaluation, mechanical vibration, centrifugation, relative humidity, light test, consecutive extreme temperature variation and evaluation of organoleptic characteristics. The stability tests did not reveal phase separation or liquefaction of the prepared gel samples. There were no changes recorded in vibration test, in the organoleptic characteristics of the formulations, the relative humidity test, as well as in the extreme temperature variation test. The formulations showed an acid pH, between 5.93±0.047 and 6.16±0.047. The apparent density of the formulations were between 1.08±0.00 Kg/m-3 and 1.12±0.00 Kg/m-3. Although hop extracts had no antimicrobial effect, the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis showed antibacterial and antifungal activities against all strains of bacteria and fungi tested, with higher potency against S. aureus (MIC = 0.031%) than for P. aeruginosa (MIC = 1.25%). The study of the phenolic profile of cones and vegetative parts of the polar extracts of hop, allowed the identification of thirty compounds, of which alpha and beta acids, phenolic acids and flavonoids. In conclusion, the study explored the vegetative part of hop that remain poorly studied allowing propose them as ingredient in cosmetic area. Thanks to FCT (Portugal) and the ERDF under the PT2020 Program for financial support to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020) and LAQVREQUIMTE (UIDB/50006/2020). SMC acknowledges the research contract under the project AgroForWealth (CENTRO-01-0145-FEDER-000001). info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion

The use of natural cosmetics is nowadays becoming increasingly frequent given to the notice of consumers to the consequences of using chemically synthesized compounds, which may even be carcinogenic. This work aimed to develop a cream formulation for daily moisturizing of the skin, with natural ingredients, like bee products, plants of the region of Trás-Os-Montes and vegetable oils. Among bee products, beeswax was chosen for its properties, like skin repairing power and antimicrobial power. In more detail, two sage plants (Salvia officinalis and Salvia elegans) and the thyme species Thymus zygis subsp. zygis were used as sources of antioxidants. The phenolic profile of the hydroalcoholic extracts of sage were elucidated by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 analysis, while the composition of the essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was determined by GC/ GC-MS. The antimicrobial activities were evaluated by microdilution broth method and by diffusion agar test. The obtained formulations were subjected to physicochemical and microbiological stability tests. The major phenolic components of S. officinalis extract were rosmarinic acid, apigenin-Oglucuronide, scutellarein-O-glucuronide and luteolin-7-O-glucuronide while S. elegans was mostly composed by rosmarinic acid, salvianolic acid K, luteolin-7-O-glucuronide and caffeic acid. The GC/ GC-MS analysis of essential oil of T. zygis subsp. zygis was mainly composed of carvacrol, cymene and trans-sabinene hydrate. The formulations had pH values slightly acid, similar to the skin pH. No phase separation or alteration of the organoleptic criteria of the formulations were observed. The stability of the products was also verified by spectrophotometer within the UV visible region between 210 and 600 nm, especially the sample containing olive oil and 5% of S. elegans hydroalcoholic extract. A non- Newtonien behavior, criterion sought in cosmetic creams, was also observed during the analysis by the texturometer. Additionally, the thyme volatile oil, used as a preservative in the cream, showed an inhibitory effect against Staphylococcus aureus (MIC and MBC < 0.031%), Pseudomonas sp (MIC and MBC = 1.25%), Escherichia coli (MIC and MBC = 0.31%) and Candida albicans. Above a degree of 0.31%, thyme oil showed in C. albicans, inhibition zones varying from 2 to 9.5 mm against C. albicans, in the agar diffusion test. The promising results of these work allows propose beeswax, S. officinalis, S. elegans and T. zygis subsp. zygis as active ingredients for natural cosmetic formulations. Thanks to FCT (Portugal) and the ERDF under the PT2020 Program for financial support to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020) and LAQVREQUIMTE (UIDB/50006/2020). SMC acknowledges the research contract under the project AgroForWealth (CENTRO-01-0145- FEDER-000001). info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion

Natural products are becoming a trend in the cosmetic market, due to a growing awareness and concern with the origin of these products. The certification of natural products, especially organic ones under the COSMOS signature preserves the integrity of the constituents, in an environmentally appropriate and safe for human health, expanding the concept of "green chemistry”, guaranteeing the origin, and processing of the products, storage, manufacturing, packaging, etc. The objective of this study was to develop a moisturizing cosmetic emulsion in the solid format according to COSMOS certification, with guarantee the quality of the product in a new concept of solid cosmetic. 59 tests were carried out to optimise this emulsion, with the best possible hydration level. The different tests included variations in components and their amounts, following be evaluation of sensory aspects for each formulation. The final cosmetic emulsion formulation (Figure 1) contains components of Portuguese origin such as grape seeds oil from Douro Valley, olive oil and extract of by-products of acorn (Quercus Ilex L.) and essential oils of mandarin, geranium, coriander and cinnamon. The formulation has undergone accelerated stability tests with temperatures (40 ºC /-12 ºC). The pH, density and organoleptic characteristics were evaluate. The phenolic profile of acorn by-product (Quercus ilex L.) was performe by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2. A questionnaire was applying to evaluate the acceptance after use of the moisturizing cosmetic emulsion. In stability tests, overall the formulation showed small color variations and less aroma intensity, maintaining hydration and solid state. The pH changes were from 4.68 ± 0.006 to 4.78 ± 0.05 and the density was maintaining at 0.73 kg/m3 . The polar extract of acorn by-product have as major compounds trigalloyl-HHDP-glucose, valoneic acid dilactone and gallic acid, known as antioxidants compounds. The essential oils bring beneficial properties to the skin and the aroma. In the post use of solid emulsion survey applied shown that “aroma” was the second point most valorised (47.6%), after “hydration” (90.5%). The results shown that the majority of participants (81.0%) were “very satisfied” or “satisfied” with the solid emulsion indicating the intention to use it if it is on the market (76.2%). This study highlights the research in reformulations from liquid to solid products, and the potential of using Portuguese raw materials such as acorn. Thanks to FCT (Portugal) and the ERDF under the PT2020 Program for financial support to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020) and LAQVREQUIMTE (UIDB/50006/2020). SMC acknowledges the research contract (project AgroForWealth, CENTRO-01-0145- FEDER000001). info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion

Hop (Humulus lupulus L.) is known worldwide as an essential flavor in the beer industry. Its major compounds have been demonstrated to be associated to health benefits, due to its antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anticancer activities [1]. This study intended to develop and to evaluate the stability of an anti-aging cosmetic gel by incorporation of different percentages of hydroalcoholic extracts obtained from cones (flowers) and vegetative parts (leaves) of hop spontaneous and of the Cascade and Polaris cultivars and essential oil of Thymus zygis. In addition, the phytochemical profile and antimicrobial activities determination of hop extracts and of essential oil of thymus were performed. A methylcellulose gel formulation was used as base to develop the hop cosmetic product. Subsequently, several parameters were evaluated to address its physical-chemical stability. In addition to that, the phenolic profile of hop extracts was determined by UHPLC-DAD-ESI-MS2 [2] while the composition of thyme essential oil was done by GC and GC-MS. The ability to inhibit the microbial growth was performed by microdilution broth method and the diffusion in agar test. Contrary to hop extracts, thyme oil has shown to exert antibacterial and antifungal activities and thus, it was added to the formulation as preservative. Carvacrol, terpinen-4-ol and p-cimene, determined as major compounds in this oil, could be important contributors for these activities. The extracts obtained from hop cones were rich in phenolic compounds such as cohumulone, humulone and xanthohumol, which have been claimed as possessing anti-wrinkle effect [3]. Concerning stability of the formulations, no phase separation was observed in the centrifugation, mechanical vibration tests or the color tests. However, changes were observed in the UV-Visible spectra between 300nm to 350nm wavelengths, probably by presence of the phenolic compounds such as example xanthohumol, cohumulona, humulona and lupulona [3]. In texture by back extrusion, only the formulation with the extracts of the Polaris variety has high consistency and low viscosity. In the light test there was phase separation in the samples due to the occurrence of dehydration, to minimize this effect, it must be properly in a non-transparent packaging to protect from light. Overall, the incorporation of hydroalcoholic extracts of hop and essential oil of thyme in methylcellulose gel formulations, especially with Polaris variety with 2.5% hydroalcoholic extract of hop cones, allow to obtained a stable cosmetic with potential as anti-aging take into account the chemical composition. Thanks to FCT (Portugal) and the ERDF under the PT2020 Program for financial support to CIMO (UIDB/00690/2020) and LAQV-REQUIMTE (UIDB/50006/2020). SMC acknowledges the research contract (project AgroForWealth, CENTRO-01-0145-FEDER-000001). info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion