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Introduction: Hair is the most noticeable part of one’s beauty and enhances individual’s personality. Hair loss is largely the result of genetics and hormones, however, lifestyle (hair colouring, fashion etc.) and environmental factors such as hair styling, eating habits and chemical exposure has major role. As more women are embracing their natural hair by exposing them to chemical relaxers resulting in an untold havoc with our physical health. Aims and Objectives: To examine the patients undergoing repeated chemical relaxing and curling Methodology: A cross-sectional observational hospital based study was carried out on purposively selected patients diagnosed with telogen effluvium. Forty seven patients of either sex, aged between 18 to 50 yrs those who had undergone relaxing and curling more than once over a period of 12 months Result: Out of 47 patients diagnosed to have hair fall, 13 were male and 34 were female. 49% belonged to the age group of 25-31 years. 42% of patients applied relaxers up to 4 times while 7% used up to 10 times. The commonest adverse events associated with the use of chemical hair relaxers were hair loss (61%), dry hair (45%), dandruff (20%), thinning of hair (30%), greying of hair (25%) and split ends in only (15%). Conclusion: Hair fall, lack of hair growth, hair breakage, hair thinning, scalp irritation are the main adverse effects faced due to the continuous use of hair relaxers and curlers. However, chemical hair relaxers have been know to cause adverse effects is not a false belief and affected the society badly.Therefore one should be very careful while using and applying any sort of chemical to your hairs. Keywords: Chemical Hair Relaxers, Falling of Hair, Hair loss, Scalp Irritation, Hair Breakage.

Introduction: Male baldness is genetically determined, most common gradually progressive hair disorder leading to miniaturization of hair follicles. Various modalities have been used in various studies without significant results. Objective: The aim was to study and compare the two modalities of treatment and to evaluate their results. Materials and Methods: This is prospective, comparative study. Sample size was 40, twenty in each group. Group 1 was given 5% topical minoxidil solution two times in a day till six months and platelet rich plasma (PRP), Group 2 was given only PRP at three weekly interval for six months. Parameters evaluated before starting, after three months and after six months for - Hair pull test, anagen/telogen ratio, Patient’s, Physician’s assessment and clinical photographs. Results: On evaluating group 1 showed relatively more significant improvement. On hair pull test significant reduction of hair breakage in group 1. Anagen/telogen ratio showed 8.9 ± 0.3% improvement in anagen hair in group 1 while 5.9 ± 0.5% was in group 2. Improvement was seen in patients of group 1 more than patients of group 2 based on patient’s assessment and photographs. Conclusion: 5% minoxidil when given with platelet rich plasma was superior and better when compared to platelet rich plasma alone. Keywords: AGA, PRP, Minoxidil.

Background: Hair coloring, or hair coloring, is the follow of fixing the hair color. The most reasons for this area unit cosmetic: to hide gray or white hair, to alter to a color thought to be additional modern or fascinating, or to revive the initial hair color once, it's been stained by hairdressing process or sun bleaching. Hair coloring is often done professionally by a stylist or severally reception. Celtic folks colored their hair blonde; they bleach it by laundry them in lime and brushing it back from their foreheads. The coloring of hair is associate ancient art that involves treatment of the hair with varied chemical compounds. In history, the dyes were obtained from plants. The event of artificial dyes for hair is derived from the legendary discovery of the reactivity of para-phenylenediamine (PPD) with air. Results: Hair dyes are cosmetic compounds that make contact with the skin throughout application. As a result of this skin contact, there exists some health risk related to use of hair dyes. People allergic to protein as an example, can have to be compelled to take care once buying hair color since bound dye includes protein. Protein doesn't have to be compelled to be eaten for it to cause associate hypersensitivity reaction. Skin contact with protein might cause a reaction; thus, resulting in associate hypersensitivity reaction. Symptoms of those reactions will embody redness, sores, itching, burning sensation, and discomfort. Symptoms can typically not be apparent instantly following the appliance and process of the tint, however may arise once hours or maybe daily later. Conclusion: Pigments of the hair got colored by the tactic of removing, replacing, or covering up. Employment of those chemicals may cause varied adverse effects, at the facet of temporary skin irritation and hypersensitivity, hair breakage, skin discoloration, and explosive hair color results. The ultimate color of every strand of hair can depend upon its original color and body. As a result of hair's color and body across the pinnacle and on the length of a hair strand, there'll be delicate variations in shade across the complete head. This provides an additional natural-looking result than the solid, everywhere color of a permanent color. Thus, hair dyes area unit regulated within the industrial marketplace and, as new toxicity knowledge is generated for a few hair dye, and health risks area unit discovered, in a controlled people, employment of hair coloring may end up in aversions and/or skin irritation.

Hair represents an important aspect of human individuality. The possibility of having an easy to handle hairstyle and changing it from time to time promoted an increasing search for chemical hair transformations, including permanent wavings (PW). PW is the chemical process used to convert straight into curly hair. Significant findings have been made in this field within the last three decades. In the past few years, PW has come back up to date, helping to define curls in wavy and curly hair and to create waves in straight hair. "Afro permanent" and "Beach waves" are some popular names for these new uses of PW. The primary safety concerns for PW generally arise from misuse or failure to comply with the product's usage instructions. Skin irritation, hair breakage, oral toxicity, sensitization, and scarring alopecia have been reported in the literature. Therefore, dermatologists need to understand well this matter to properly advise patients on how to get the best outcome without hazards. This review aims to discuss the main types of reducing agents used, the different techniques, the consequences to hair shafts, and the most important patients' recommendations on this topic.

Afro hair breakage is most commonly attributed to grooming practices such as braiding, hair extensions and weaves, both for chemically treated hair and natural Afro hair. These grooming practices are also frequently associated with traction alopecia in clinical studies. However, there is little to no quantitative scientific data on the surface and internal hair fibre damage caused by grooming, including combing, on Afro hair.Qualitative and quantitative techniques such as scanning electron microscopy, cuticle cohesion and tensile testing were used to determine the effects of frequent braiding on the integrity of female Afro hair in 15 frequent braiders and 15 occasional braiders (control group) in Johannesburg, South Africa. Frequent braiders were women who braided more than 8 times per year, while occasional braiders typically limit braiding to only twice 2 per year. The severity of traction alopecia was quantified in both groups using the standard Marginal Traction Alopecia Scoring system. Surface damage on naturally curly Afro hair, that was combed but not braided, was assessed as another hairstyle option.All measurements showed a relationship between surface and internal hair fibre damage and braiding frequency. Frequent braiders had thinner hair, with more cuticle damage as shown by SEM and cuticle cohesion assessments. Their hair fibres were also significantly weaker (p 0.05), as shown by the tensile testing. In addition, they also had higher traction alopecia severity scores. In the combing impact assessment, a linear trend was observed between surface hair fibre damage and the number of combing strokes. Cuticle damage from 480 combing strokes was more severe than that from frequent braiding.Frequent braiding and combing damage natural Afro hair. Quantification of damage caused by different grooming practices identifies a need to develop products that could help mitigate specific hair damage associated with grooming practices. The degree of damage and subsequent hair loss could also be minimized by education on best braiding practices to protect the hair fibre and avoid hair follicle miniaturization caused by high traction hairstyles.La casse des cheveux d’origine Africaine est le plus souvent associées à des pratiques cosmétiques telles que le tressage et les extensions de cheveux, à la fois pour les cheveux traités chimiquement et les cheveux naturels. Ces pratiques cosmétiques sont également fréquemment associées à une alopécie de traction, comme le relatent les études cliniques. Cependant, il existe peu ou pas de données scientifiques quantitatives sur l’impact de ce type de pratiques, y compris le peignage, sur les dommages internes et de surface des cheveux d’origine africaine. MÉTHODES: Des techniques qualitatives et quantitatives, comme la microscopie électronique à balayage (MEB), la cohésion cuticulaire et des tests de traction, ont été utilisés pour déterminer les effets du tressage sur l'intégrité des cheveux de deux groupes de 15 femmes Africaines (à Johannesburg, Afrique du Sud) : un premier groupe de femmes pratiquant un tressage fréquent et un autre groupe un tressage occasionnel. Le groupe des tresseurs fréquents correspond à des femmes qui pratiquent le tressage plus de 8 fois par an, tandis que les tresseurs occasionnels limitent généralement le tressage à seulement deux fois par an. La gravité de l'alopécie de traction a été également quantifiée dans les deux groupes à l'aide du système standard de notation de l'alopécie tractionnelle. Parallèlement, à titre de comparaison, les dommages de surface ont été également évalués sur des cheveux d’origine Africaine naturellement bouclés, non tressés, mais qui ont subi un peignage répété. RÉSULTATS: Toutes les mesures ont montré une relation entre les dommages de surface et internes de la fibre et la fréquence de tressage. Les tresseurs fréquents ont des cheveux plus fins, avec un endommagement plus important de la cuticule, comme le montrent les évaluations MEB et la cohésion cuticulaire. Les cheveux sont également significativement plus fragiles (p0,05), comme le montrent les tests de traction. De plus, ces femmes ont également des scores d'alopécie de traction plus élevés. Dans le cas spécifique du peignage répété, une tendance linéaire a été observée entre les dommages en surface de la fibre capillaire et le nombre de coups de peigne. On peut également noter que l’endommagement de la cuticule causé par 480 coups de peigne est plus important que celui causé par des tressages fréquents.Les tressages et peignages fréquents endommagent les cheveux naturels d’origine Africaine. La quantification des dommages causés par différentes pratiques cosmétiques met en évidence le besoin de développer des produits qui pourraient aider à atténuer les dommages liés à des pratiques spécifiques. Le niveau de dommage et la perte de cheveux pourraient également être minimisés par un apprentissage de meilleures pratiques de tressage pour protéger la fibre et éviter la diminution des follicules pileux causée par des coiffures qui entrainent un forte traction sur la fibre.

Background and Aim: Interaction of hair with water is common. This study was conducted to compare changes in baseline strength of hair after treating it with hard water and deionized water. Material and Methods: Hardness level of water samples collected from 10 districts of KP, Pakistan was determined, and that with maximum hardness was considered our sample hard water. Hair samples of 70 male individuals, from district with minimum hardness levels, were collected. Each hair sample was divided into three equal parts, and three groups of hair were established, each group containing 70 hairs. Group A was considered control. Group B was treated with deionized water and Group C was treated with hard water. Tensile strength of all three groups was measured using the universal testing machine and compared using paired t-test. Results: The mean age of all 70 participants were 23.87 ± 3. The mean values of tensile strength for hairs of Groups A, B, and C were 255.49, 254.84, and 234.16 with a standard deviation of 57.55, 58.74, and 56.25, respectively. Results were significant in case of hard water (P = 0.001) as compared to deionized water (P = 0.609). Conclusion: Hard water decreases strength of hair and thus increases breakage.

Friction alopecia is a non-scarring alopecia that causes hair breakage and may cause trichorrhexis nodosa. We report a case of a 15-year-old girl with self-inflicting friction alopecia that demonstrated broken hairs and proximal trichorrhexis nodosa on dermoscopy. We review various causes of friction alopecia and clinical findings, as well as trichorrhexis nodosa.

Pili annulati is generally classified as a hair shaft disorder without fragility. However, increased susceptibility to weathering is common. Severe breakage due to trichorrhexis nodosa is uncommon. We report a case and review the literature on this topic.

Hair is an important part of body and a major factor in self-image. A wide variety of hair cosmetic preparations are available and are used regularly by most of the world’s population. Hair colouring is one of the commonly done procedure. However, any chemical treatment, normal grooming habits and environmental exposure can produce changes in hair texture or hair breakage. It is necessary for a dermatologist to know the basis of hair colouring, the procedure and the possible side effects it can cause. Also post colour care is also to be known about to prevent further damage to treated hair. This article explains the basic chemistry and mechanism involved in hair dyeing and the basic facts a dermatologist should know.

To predict consumer-perceived hair breakage based on parameters from three distinct categories 1) hair strand parameters-like curvature, stiffness and tensile strength indices; 2) hair matrix or bulk parameters-like smoothness, detangling, frizzvolume and; 3) biological factors like age, hair density.Consumer-relevant evaluation techniques were employed in a uniquely designed protocol to obtain real-life data from the consumers' head without impacting or damaging their hair. Hairs of 50 Indian female subjects in the age group of 20-40 years were characterized using various instrumental techniques for parameters mentioned above, apart from the hair breakage count. Multiple regression analysis was performed over the data collected to arrive at a regression equation connecting the hair breakage observed with the key parameters impacting hair breakage. Validation of the model was performed by collecting additional set of hair characterization data for 18 Indian subjects with same recruitment parameters.A second order, non-linear multi-regression equation was proposed for consumer-perceived hair breakage with five predictors. A reasonable correlation (RCurrent work demonstrates the usefulness of regression modelling in understanding complex consumer-relevant parameters by taking a holistic view of consumer hair breakage as a combination of various parameters measured individually at lab scale. The proposed regression equation serves as a tool for product developers to understand the physical parameters of impact when it comes to consumer-perceived hair breakage and make required changes to the formulation. The method presented can be used to develop model for subjects from other geographies and eventually a generalized model can be proposed.Prédire la casse des cheveux perçue par le consommateur en se basant sur les paramètres de trois catégories distinctes 1) paramètres de courbure des mèches de cheveux, de rigidité et de résistance à la traction 2) paramètres de matrice ou de lissage, de démêlage, de frisottis et de volume et 3) des facteurs biologiques tels que l’âge, la densité des cheveux.Des techniques d’évaluation pertinentes pour le consommateur ont été utilisées dans un protocole unique conçu pour obtenir des données réelles sans impacter ou abimer leurs cheveux. Des cheveux de 50 femmes Indiennes âgées de 20 à 40 ans ont été caractérisés en utilisant diverses techniques instrumentales pour les paramètres mentionnés ci-dessus, à part le nombre de cheveux cassés. Plusieurs analyses de régression ont été réalisées sur les données recueillies pour arriver à une équation de régression reliant la rupture des cheveux observée avec les paramètres clés ayant une incidence sur la rupture des cheveux. La validation du modèle a été réalisée en collectant un ensemble supplémentaire de données de caractérisation des cheveux pour 18 sujets indiens en utilisant les mêmes paramètres de recrutement. RÉSULTATS: Une équation de régression multiple non linéaire de second ordre est proposé pour la casse des cheveux perçue par le consommateur avec cinq prédicteurs. Une corrélation raisonnable (RLes travaux en cours démontrent l'utilité de la modélisation par régression dans la compréhension des paramètres complexes pertinents pour le consommateur en utilisant une voie holistique de la rupture des cheveux des consommateurs provenant d'une combinaison de divers paramètres mesurés individuellement à l’échelle du laboratoire. L’équation de régression proposée sert d'outil pour les développeurs pour comprendre les paramètres physiques de l'impact lorsque il concerne la casse des cheveux perçue par le consommateur et ainsi de rendre obligatoire la modifications de la formulation. La méthode présentée peut être utilisée pour développer un modèle pour des sujets d'autres régions et éventuellement un modèle généralisé peut être proposé.

Introduction: In 2001, Arnold coined the term “Hair Mass Index” (HMI).1 HMI is an accurate measurement that allows you to calculate the amount of, and thickness of, hair on areas of the scalp by dividing hair mass by the area from which hair is isolated. The HMI has advantages in terms of early detection of miniaturization, hair growth measurement, and hair breakage. HairCheck, a device currently available to measure HMI, is expensive because it requires disposable material for every measurement. Thus, we present the economical “HairMeasure” and “Scalp Zone Identifier” devices that do not require disposable material. Objective: To design a mechanical device that precisely measures the cross-sectional area of a bundle of hair and a device that can precisely delineate an area of scalp for successive examination. Material & Methods: A thin metal sheet is used to make the “HairMeasure” device, which is then mounted on one of the arms of a vernier caliper. Using a “Scalp Zone Identifier,” the hair bundle to be measured is isolated. This hair bundle is parked in the slot of HairMeasure and the thickness of the hair bundle is measured by digital vernier caliper. Successive readings are taken in the same way. The Scalp Zone Identifier assists in identifying the same scalp zone without any tattoo markings over the scalp. Conclusion: The “HairMeasure” and “Scalp Zone Identifier,” which don9t require disposable material, are economical devices for calculating HMI and locating the scalp zone area for examination without any tattoo marking.

Background In 2005, the L'Oreal Institute for hair and skin research carried out a multiethnic study to investigate hair breakage in women residing in the U.S.A. In this study it was reported that a large percentage (96%) of the African-American respondents experience breakage. A combination of structural differences and grooming-induced stresses seem to contribute to the higher breakage incidence in the African-American group as the chemical composition of African-American hair is not significantly different from other ethnic groups. Some authors have proposed that the repeated elongation, torsion and flexion actions may affect the components of the hair fibre. However, considering the different properties of cuticle and cortex, one would expect a different wearing mechanism of each, leading to the ultimate failure of hair. Knowing in detail how each part of the structure fails can potentially lead to better ways to protect the hair from physical insults. Objective To investigate crack propagation and fracture mechanisms in African-American hair. Methods Virgin hair of excellent quality was collected, with informed consent, from a female African-American volunteer. A series of controlled mechanical stresses was applied to 10-mm hair sections using a high-resolution mechanical stage (20 mN) up to the fracture of the fibre. The surface was monitored using scanning electron microscopy imaging during the stress application. X-ray tomographic microscopy images were acquired and quantified to detect changes in energy absorption as a function of applied stress that could be linked to increase in crack density. Results Analysis of the mechanical response of hair combined with the two imaging techniques led us to propose the following mechanism of hair breakage: cuticle sliding; failure of the cuticle-cortex interface; nucleation of intercellular cracks and growth of cracks at the cuticle-cortex junction; and propagation of intercellular cracks towards the surface of the hair and final breakage when these cracks merge at the cuticular junction. Conclusions The combination of scanning electron microscopy and X-ray tomography provided new information about the fracture of hair. Mechanical damage from grooming and some environmental factors accumulate in hair creating internal cracks that eventually result in breakage at unpredictable sites and therefore a continuous care regimen for the hair throughout the life cycle of the fibres is recommended.

Acquired trichorrhexis nodosa (TN) is a common cause of hair loss for patients of all ethnicities. It is especially prevalent in black patients with tightly curled hair types and can present unique diagnostic and therapeutic challenges due to structural differences in these hair types and the combination of various hair care and styling practices that contribute to hair damage. While scalp biopsies can help rule out other etiologies of hair loss, there is a paucity of histologic findings in acquired TN, making this primarily a clinical diagnosis. Instead of more traditional prescription based therapies, the management of this form of hair loss emphasizes protecting the hair shaft and minimizing further damage through the development of a healthy hair care regimen. This involves appropriate selection and use of cleansing products and conditioning agents that help protect the hair from the insults of daily grooming. This paper will review the current literature on acquired TN and will provide guidelines and recommendations for management by reviewing the different types of cleansing and conditioning products that can be used to prevent and/or halt the progression of hair breakage.

Chemical relaxers are products marketed to straighten the hair and have been principally used by African Americans since the early twentieth century. They contain alkaline agents that break and reform hydrogen and disulfide bonds, leaving hair permanently straightened. Relaxers cause loss of tensile strength and increased fragility of the hair shaft that lead to increased risk of hair breakage and thinning. When used improperly, they can also cause local irritant contact dermatitis and chemical burns to the scalp and hairline that can potentially lead to a scarring alopecia. After interviewing several cosmetology educators in the field and reviewing the literature, we generated a list of ten pearls that all dermatologists should know about relaxers to provide professional guidance to their patients.

IntroductionA consumer internet survey conducted by our Institute in2005, of over 1200 women that self-identified as AfricanAmerican, Caucasian, Chinese, or Mexican, determinedthat African-American women experience hair breakageat a statistically higher rate as compared with their Chi-nese, Mexican, and Caucasian counterparts. In fact, 96%said they experienced hair breakage while 23% agreed itwas their biggest hair problem. To better understand thisreported phenomenon of increased fragility, one mustconsider that mechanical fragility of hair may be relatedto innate differences in the structure, the result of variousdiseases, or related to grooming habits and practices. Inthis paper, we review some of the previously reportedstructural differences observed in curly hair, laboratorymeasurements used to evaluate fragility, and the potentialimpact of grooming practices.Historically, human hair was classified along raciallines of Caucasian, Mongolian (Asian), and Negroid(African or of African descent). Early studies investigatedhair diameter, geometric shape, strength, and chemicalreactivity.

We conducted a 24-week clinical study in 20 women with skin and scalp hair problems (e.g., skin dryness, pigmented spots, roughness, thinning hair, and hair loss) and symptoms of ketsuo or kekkyo to investigate the effects of kamishoyosangoshimotsuto extract (KGS1) on skin condition and hair properties. Skin evaluation revealed significant improvements in stratum corneum moisture content, skin texture score, and spot brightness. Hair evaluation showed significant increases in hair thickness and hair breakage strength. Furthermore, we visually analyzed the effects of KGS1 on skin condition using facial photographs taken before and after test product treatment. In almost half of subjects, facial color and the skin color of spots were visibly brightened, skin dullness was improved, and skin luster was increased.

Objective To determine the various factors contributing to what Caucasian women describe as ‘fine hair'. Methods Three complementary approaches were used, namely self-evaluation by the volunteer, assessment by a sensorial expert and instrumental measurements, in order to determine some of the possible parameters taken into account by Caucasian women when they describe the notion of fine hair. One hundred fifty one women of Caucasian origin participated in the study. They varied in age, and varied in that some considered themselves as having fine hair, and others not. The instrumental measurements carried out included hair diameter measurements, hair density measurements, hair breakage force, hair flexibility and scalp sebum levels. Results From six parameters defined initially, four parameters were found to be in common with the three approaches: hair abundance (density), hair thickness, hair resistance and the volume of the hair on the head. The commonly used term ‘body’ was only common to self and expert evaluation, whereas the influence of curliness was only common to expert evaluation and instrumental measurements. Conclusions This study has shown close agreement between sensorial and instrumental findings, and also illustrates how the women participating can subtly and adequately describe their own hair. It is important to note that the words ‘fine hair’ describes a lot more than just physically thin hair fibres. Ageing is an additional factor that clearly impacts certain parameters associated with ‘fine hair’ among the volunteers.

Dermoscopy represents a useful technique for the diagnosis and follow-up of hair and scalp disorders. To date, little has been published regarding dermoscopy findings of hair disorders in patients of African descent. This article illustrates how dermoscopy allows fast diagnosis of hair breakage due to intrinsic factors and chemical damage in African descent patients.

Exposing wet hair to high temperatures can create gas bubbles within the hair shaft, leading to brittle, dry hairs in a disorder known as bubble hair abnormality. We present a case of a 61-year-old woman who presented for hair breakage over her crown. She regularly dried her damp hair with a blow dryer. Dermoscopy revealed multiple bubbles within the hair shaft, and diagnosis of bubble hair abnormality was confirmed by light microscopy. Our unusual case highlights the ease of acquisition of this abnormality by means of a common hair dryer, and the utility of dermoscopy to make a fast and accurate diagnosis within the office.

Hair is an important component of body image and has immense psychological importance for both men and women. Women, in particular, over the ages have modified their appearance through changing their hair colour or style. Hair can be straight, wavy or curly, blonde, black, brown or red. These natural variations are an important part of our identity that can be manipulated according to the dictates of fashion, culture or society. Different types of hair have varying affinity for the different colouring and waving methods. Damaged hair also has a different affinity for hair products than normal healthy hair. The hair shaft is remarkably strong and resistant to the extremes of nature. Hair cosmetics are widely available and manipulate the structural properties of hair. Whilst most procedures are safe, there is considerable potential for damage to the hair and hair problems of acute onset, including hair breakage, hair loss and loss of condition, are frequently blamed on the last product used on the hair. Hair problems are particularly prevalent among people who repeatedly alter the natural style of their hair.

Hair microscopy can clarify the cause of hair loss in a range of diagnoses. Most of these are associated with hair breakage, the rest are related to lack of growth. Hair breakage may be due to excessive trauma or underlying susceptibility, where structural clues may be present. Lack of growth reflects follicular dynamics and represents the central mechanism of most common causes of alopecia. In such conditions, microscopy only reveals nonspecific confirmation of short anagen. Although this may assist clinical diagnosis, microscopy in alopecia only allows exclusion of diagnoses related to hair breakage. Confidence in the outcome of hair microscopy is based on the size of the sample of hairs, the length of the hair, the characteristics of the observations and the experience of the person undertaking the microscopy.

Purpose: To determine the relationship between pili annulati (PA) and acquired trichorrhexis nodosa (TN) seen in the same patient, considering the two main theories evoked by previous studies: greater stiffness of darker PA bands or associated cuticular damage. Procedures: Light microscopy of hair shafts from different regions of the patient's scalp. Results: TN was not superimposed to dark bands of PA. Conclusions: Greater stiffness of darker PA bands was excluded as the cause of hair breakage. Hair breakage in PA patients might be related to cuticular abnormalities, as previously reported. Because weathering of long thin chemically treated hairs is extremely common, coincidence cannot be completely ruled out in this case.

The culturally engrained practice of 'relaxing' afro-textured hair has been linked with hair and scalp disorders. Herein, we discuss the evolution of human hair types, focusing in particular on afro-textured hair. We explore the biological features of this hair type, and discuss the different methods employed to straighten afro-textured hair, focusing in particular on chemical straightening. We also examine clinical, anthropological, and psychological issues associated with this latter practice. Examples of common scalp pathologies associated with chronic hair relaxing, such as alopecia, hair breakage, caustic burns and irritant contact dermatitis, are also highlighted. The data presented herein should enable clinicians to engage in culturally appropriate discussions with their patients about issues of appearance and conformity.

DERMOSCOPIC APPEARANCE The dermoscopic examination of hairs obtained with a pull test allowed us to diagnose hair breakage in all cases. The hair fragments did not have a root but rather had brush-like tips and swelling along the shaft that was caused by trichorrhexis nodosa (Fig 2). Central trichoptilosis (ie, a longitudinal split in the central part of the shaft) was another common finding (Fig 3).

Trichothiodystrophy leading to generalized trichorrhexis nodosa-like hair changes with abnormal hair breakage is described in a 4-year-old girl. A marked deficiency of sulphur and the sulphur-containing amino acid, cystine, was detected in the biochemical analysis of the hair. Further investigation of the hair showed the morphological criteria of trichothiodystrophy. Commonly related symptoms, such as mental retardation, ichthyosis and increased sensitivity to sunlight, were not present in our patient.

Herein is an attempt to bridge the gap between consumer and scientist by defining the more important consumer hair assembly properties (heads of hair, tresses, or wigs) describing how these properties are affected by changes from cosmetic treatments to fundamental single fiber properties. The effects of changes in single fiber properties by chronological age for five different stages of one’s life is also described in terms of how these fiber properties relate to and affect the important consumer hair assembly properties. The literature on hair breakage is also summarized as a multifactorial phenomenon involving tangle formation with hairs looped over other hairs, severe bending deformations, highly localized stresses, and the amount of water in the fibers. The effects of hair curvature, fiber twists, knots, hair damage and abrasive wear on hair breakage are also described. A new unpublished section describing split hairs found on the heads of consumers is described along with preferred mechanisms for the formation of these different types of split hairs.

Hair loss in women of color represents a unique diagnostic challenge that requires a systematic approach. In women of color, clinical examination of the hair and scalp is most helpful when performed first and used to guide subsequent history-taking to arrive at a clinical assessment. The most common hair problems in women of color are hair breakage, traction alopecia, and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. A careful detailed clinical examination and history will guide the clinician to appropriate counseling and management. It is important to recognize that a patient may have more than one of these 3 diagnoses and each requires separate attention. Traction alopecia is completely preventable with appropriate education of the public and medical establishment.

Synopsis Repetitive hair-relaxing treatments often applied to African–American hair weaken the hair structure. Therefore hair breakage is a common feature of African–American hair and an important cause of hair loss. Recently, by analysing the lipids extracted from human hair, a fraction of free-ceramide was isolated in which sphinganine was predominant. This study shows that this sphinganine-derived ceramide (i.e. C18-dhCer) binds to African–American hair and protects it from weakening caused by chemicals. To show this binding, we used two methods: radioactivity detection with a microimagerTM and secondary ion mass spectrometry. We evaluated the benefits of C18-dhCer on African–American hair fibre, relaxed by guanidine hydroxide, using a new method called the Break'in Brush Technique (BBT®). This method determines the hair breakage resistance during a brushing. Using this technique, we have shown less breakage when applying a shampoo with ceramide. The present study opens new prospects for the development of products able to increase the protection, provide better care and meet the needs of African–American hair thanks to the effect of ceramide binding. Resume L'application reguliere de traitement de defrisage affaiblit la structure des cheveux afro-americains. Pour cette raison, la casse des cheveux afro-americains est un phenomene frequent et important. Recemment, l'analyse des lipides extraits de cheveux humains a permis d'isoler, une fraction enrichie en ceramides libres, dans laquelle la shinganine etait predominante. Cette etude montre que ce ceramide derivee de la sphinganine (C18-dhCer) se fixe aux cheveux afro-americains et les protege des affaiblissements causes par des traitements chimiques. Pour evaluer cette fixation qualitativement et quantitativement, nous avons utilise deux methodes: la detection de la radioactivite grâce a un microimagerTM et l'utilization d'un spectrometre de masse des ions secondaires. Nous avons evalue les effets benefiques du C18-dh-Cer sur les cheveux defrises a la guanidine, en utilisant une nouvelle methode appelee la technique Break'in Brush (BBT®). Cette methode determine la resistance de casse des cheveux durant un brushing. Avec l'utilisation d'un shampooing contenant le ceramide, nous avons montre une reduction importante de la casse des cheveux. Cette etude offre de nouveaux horizons pour le developpement de produits permettant d'augmenter la protection des cheveux afro-americains, de leur offrir de meilleurs soins et de repondre ainsi aux besoins de ce type de cheveux grâce aux effets du ceramide.

Hair breakage during combing was evaluated by combing tresses and examining photographs of snags of hair fibers in combs. The resultant hair fiber arrangements suggest that breakage likely involves hair-on-hair interactions, and broken fragment size suggests that breakage occurs primarily at or near the hair-comb interface. Compression forces during combing were also measured, and impact loading of a hair fiber over another hair versus a hair fiber over a comb tooth shows that compression and abrasion are important to breakage during combing and that impact loading of one hair fiber over another during snagging is a probable and important pathway for hair breakage.

A system to determine the efficacy of hair treatments in terms of anti-breakage and split end prevention was developed which involves the repeated combing of hair strands. The device allows ten hair strands to be combed simultaneously. First, the influences of chemical hair treatments like bleaching on hair breakage were examined. In a next step, the protective effects of benchmark products from the market were studied. Since nearly all commercial products with anti-breakage claims contain silicones combined with cationic polymers, alternative actives were searched. In a test series with different waxes in shampoo formulations with a variable number of parameters, the particle size was found to be the factor with the strongest influence on the amount of wax deposited on the shampooed hair. Therefore, a targeted development was started, resulting in a combination of several ethers dispersed in sodium laureth sulfate. Excellent conditioning, anti-breakage and split ends protection properties of the compound were found, showing also a dosage dependency. The latter could be explained by analyzing the amounts of waxes applied on treated hair. In these experiments, a dependency on the concentration in the shampoo was found.

Objective To study the long-term outcome of adverse effects reported by persons who used a commercial hair-straightening product known as the Rio Hair Naturalizer System (World Rio Corporation). Design Survey of individuals who contacted the Food and Drug Administration in 1994 and 1995 to report adverse effects linked to using the product. Setting Persons residing in the United States. Patients A total of 464 (59% of 790 eligible) patients who returned a completed questionnaire. Main Outcome Measures Adverse effects associated with using the Rio Hair Naturalizer System products (neutral or color enhancer). Results Ninety percent of respondents were African American women between the ages of 15 and 55 years. The most common complaints associated with the use of the products were hair breakage and/or hair loss, reported by 95% of respondents. Three quarters of those experiencing hair loss reported losing 40% or more of their original hair. The median time between the loss of original hair and the growth of new hair was 8 months; however, 40 (9%) respondents reported having no new growth at the time of completing the survey, some 2 years after using the product. When mixed according to package instructions, the mean pH of a sample of 20 neutral product kits tested was 1.39 (range, 1.1-3.15). For the 21 color-enhancer products tested, the mean pH was 2.82 (range, 2.29-3.08). Conclusions A nationwide outbreak of alopecia and scalp injuries involving tens of thousands of women (and some men) occurred following the marketing of a chemical hair-relaxing product. Most of those affected reported substantial hair loss, with a majority indicating growth of new hair that was abnormal in both quantity and quality.

The objective of this work is to describe an alternative approach for assessing hair breakage. The methodology involves the repeated application of force, together with an evaluation of the number of cycles required before breakage-an approach often termed fatigue testing. The technique provides novel results, which appear to indicate more sizable differences between samples than arise from conventional constant-rate extension experiments. For example, results illustrate a substantially higher tendency for breakage in Afro hair as compared to Caucasian hair-a conclusion that appears in line with consumer experiences. Also, findings suggest a substantially larger contribution from the relative humidity of the environment to the propensity for breakage under these conditions.The fatigue approach also lends itself to a novel means of data analysis in which breakage is treated as a statistical variable rather than as a mechanical parameter. By performing Weibull analysis of the data, a characteristic lifetime and a shape parameter are obtained to characterize the data, while survival probability plots can be generated to predict the propensity for breakage under a specific set of conditions.

Accepted for publication June 26, 2007 Synopsis During combing of hair, longer fiber breaks (>2.5 cm) occur principally by impact loading of looped crossover hairs, while short segment breaks (

Structural hair anomalies may be divided into two groups. In the first group, the malformations are associated with increased fragility of the hair, and hair breakage is a major symptom. In the second group, the structural anomalies are not associated with increased hair fragility, and hair breakage is not a problem. Hairshaft alterations may simply indicate excessive, harsh grooming, or may signal serious metabolic disorders in which the hair is an important diagnostic clue.

During combing of hair, short fiber fragmentation (less than 2.5 cm) and longer segment breaks occur by different pathways. Longer fiber breaks most likely occur principally by impact loading. Impact loading causes hair breakage at lower loads than tensile loading, with essentially no increase in strain versus normal tensile testing, which produces large strain increases. Strain rates in impact loading are more similar to combing rates than rates of extension in tensile loading, and the looped and crossed hair formations in snags fit impact-load breakage better than simple extension of straight/non-crossed hairs in tensile testing. Extension or impacting hair fibers with flaws or damaged hair sections such as damaged wrapped ends produces short fiber fragmentation, while longer segment breaks may be produced in fibers with natural flaws such as fiber twists, cracks, or badly abraded or chemically weakened hair or even knots.

Black consumers are interested in products designed with their specific skin and hair care needs in mind. The most common problems with these products include the inability to find appropriate shades of cosmetics, "black" make-up that is greasy or irritating, allergic reactions to fragrance or other nonessential ingredients, acne from "oil-free" products, and a paucity of effective products to treat very dry skin. Many hair products are made specifically for black hair. Hair breakage is often a result of using the products inappropriately.