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Primary waves produced by large ships in confined waterways can threaten the sustainability and safety of coastal regions near maritime shipping routes, but the present understanding and predictability of primary wave shallow-water characteristics is hindered by a scarcity of available field observations. This study presents hydrodynamic measurements from 296 primary waves observed in 3.5 to 4.4 m mean water depth throughout four deployments on the channel margins of the Savannah River in Georgia, USA. Ship details and tidally varying waterway parameters are paired with pressure and fluid velocity data to investigate relationships between ship characteristics, waterway conditions, and primary wave magnitudes. Findings show that although larger and faster ships tend to produce larger primary waves, there are inconsistencies among the magnitudes of waves generated by similar ship passages. Additionally, depression prediction equations perform well for most observations, but a small group of "atypically-large" primary waves with depressions exceeding 75 cm are consistently underpredicted and require further investigation. Hydrodynamic, waterway, and ship data are made available in the Supplemental Data. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The behavior of rip currents with changing bar and gap lengths was tested in a series of laboratory experiments using video-tracked floating drifters. Qualitatively, currents showed strong differences in overall character with changing topography. As narrow gaps became wider, the circulation tended to first travel parallel to the shoreline instead of immediately offshore, although strong offshore-directed flows were found for all topographies. Quantitatively, the width of the rip neck was found to increase slowly when compared to the increasing width of the rip channel. Maximum offshore and longshore velocities showed little dependence on bar or gap lengths, and were found to scale well with the predicted rate of generation of circulation. Finally, volumetric offshore flow rates through the rip channel showed no proportionality with the bar length as predicted by the mass transport hypothesis of rip current strength. DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2008)134:1(61) CE Database subject headings: Rip currents; Topography; Drift; Water circulation; Return flow.

This paper describes nonintrusive optical techniques to measure large-scale O(10 m x 10 m) flows in a laboratory wave basin. Numerous drifters with weak positive flotation are tracked discretely and automatically using a video camera mounted near the laboratory ceiling. Processed drifter tracks are used for dense estimates of mean surface currents over the visible area. Examination of the drifter tracks also shows that waves are imaged and therefore basic wave properties may also be estimated, although this requires some further assumptions. These video based flow observations are presumed to have less precision than in situ measurements; however, the density of measurements from the video far exceeds that which can be obtained using fixed instruments, providing the method's major advantage. DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2008)134:1(12) CE Database subject headings: Wave measurement: Basins; Laboratory tests; Velocity.

A process-based numerical model has been used to study nearshore hydrodynamics on barred beaches. A laboratory experiment with an offshore bar migration case followed by an onshore bar migration is simulated. A new mechanism is incorporated in the model accounting for the breaking-wave persistence improving model performance for wave properties, particularly in the bar-trough region. A cross-shore variation of the breaking-wave parameter is introduced to the dissipation model. The effects of the surface shape parameter and a roller lag on radiation stresses and mean water-level predictions are investigated and found to improve the mean water-level predictions. The cross-shore variation of the momentum balance is presented to illustrate the variation of forcing for the undertow current. The persistence length and the roller lag mechanisms are shown to be important for predictions of the undertow currents on barred beaches and the current predictions are improved once both methods are used. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A process is described for computation of bathymetry in and near the surf zone, from spatially varying celerity and breakpoint location data. The procedure involves the use of three submodels: (1) a wave shoaling model (outside of the surf zone); (2) a wave breaking model (defining the offshore boundary of the surf zone); and (3) a wave dissipation model (inside the surf zone). Influence of wave amplitude on the wave dispersion relation and celerity is included. Output includes wave height and water depth throughout the domain. In the application described here, oblique digital video served as the initial data source, although the model could be applied to data derived from other sources. Results are compared with data recorded by in situ sensors and beach profile survey data acquired by traditional means. Results suggest that water depths can be computed within 15% normalized error (equally, less than 0.1 m in biased depth error) for in and near the surf zone characterized by high wave nonlinearity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]