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Graphical abstract, Highlights • Wool fibers are shrink-resist treated to make the wool garments machine washable. • The scales available on wool fiber surface are responsible for felting shrinkage. • Various treatments have been investigated to make wool garments shrink-resistant. • The chlorine-Hercosett process is the most effective but harmful to the environment. • The future trend of green and sustainable alternatives treatments are discussed., Wool fiber is a natural protein fiber, which is used for the manufacturing of apparels, and floorcoverings because of its excellent fire retardancy, stain-resistance, antistatic and odor control properties along with exceptional warmth and resilience. However, wool fiber has several serious demerits, such as garments made of wool fibers extensively shrink during their laundering. To overcome this problem, wool fibers, especially those are used in apparel, are frequently shrink-resist treated to make them machine-washable. A wide range of treatments including oxidative, enzymatic, radiation, polymeric coatings, sol-gel coatings, and plasma treatments have been investigated to make wool fiber shrink-resistant. In this review, the mechanisms of wool fiber shrinkage, the research carried out until recently to make wool fiber shrink-resistant, and the current status of the sustainable alternatives developed, have been compiled and presented. The various methods investigated have been critically discussed with their merits and demerits, shrink-resist performance, and their shrink-resistance mechanisms. The chemistry and synthesis of various polymers used for the shrink-resistance and their reactions with wool fiber have been outlined. This review also includes the current challenges to make shrink-resist treatments green and sustainable, and also the future directions to meet these challenges. Some of the treatments investigated may affect the biodegradability of wool fibers, especially those are based on coating with synthetic polymers. A sustainable alternative polymeric coating based on sustainably produced polymeric resins, especially bio-based resins, needs to be developed so that the future treatments become sustainable.

There is currently considerable interest in the use of enzymes to achieve a variety of finishing effects on wool, but it is apparent that the extent of fibre degradation by enzymes is of major concern during their commercial application. Proteolytic enzymes are known to penetrate and degrade the internal wool structure during processing, causing fibre damage, rather than limiting the degradation to the cuticle cells. The ability to be able to control the exact location of proteolytic attack on wool protein structures will lead to the successful development of enzymatic treatments for achieving a variety of finishing effects for wool-containing products. This present work describes the modification of proteases so that enzymatic modification of wool fibres is restricted to the cuticle scales of the fibres. Bulk trials have demonstrated that novel modifications of the enzyme enable the reaction of the enzyme with wool to be controlled, so that less degradation of the wool occurs than in similar treatments with the native protease. An anti-felting effect has been achieved without any significant weight loss being caused by the modified protease during the treatment. This novel enzymatic process leads to environmentally friendly production of machine washable wool.