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International audience; Oenococcus oeni is the main lactic acid bacterium associated with malolactic fermentation (MLF) of wines. MLF plays an important role in determining the final quality of wines. Nevertheless, due to the stressful conditions inherent to wine and especially acidity, MLF may be delayed. This study aimed to explore by adaptive evolution improvements in the acid tolerance of starters but also to gain a better understanding of the mechanisms involved in adaptation toward acidity. Four independent populations of the O. oeni ATCC BAA-1163 strain were propagated (approximately 560 generations) in a temporally varying environment, consisting in a gradual pH decrease from pH 5.3 to pH 2.9. Whole genome sequence comparison of these populations revealed that more than 45 % of the substituted mutations occurred in only five loci for the evolved populations. One of these five fixed mutations affects mae, the first gene of the citrate operon. When grown in an acidic medium supplemented with citrate, a significantly higher bacterial biomass was produced with the evolved populations compared to the parental strain. Furthermore, the evolved populations slowed down their citrate consumption at low pH without impacting malolactic performance.

This study assessed the impact of must yeast-assimilable nitrogen (YAN) content and lactic acid bacteria (LAB) strains used for malolactic fermentation (MLF) on the formation of substituted esters, as well as the corresponding precursors (substituted acids), to investigate the modulation of fruity expression in red wines. In microvinification experiments, a Merlot must was fermented with an initial YAN content of 111 mg/L, or supplemented up to 165 and 220 mg/L. Two Oenococcus oeni LAB strains were used for MLF. Analytical methods were used to quantify substituted esters, as well as the corresponding acids, including, any enantiomeric forms. YAN supplementation of the must significantly increased concentrations of substituted esters of short- and branched-chain alkyl fatty acids produced during alcoholic fermentation (AF) (up to 67% in samples with the highest nitrogen content) and substituted esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids generated during MLF (up to 58% in samples with the highest nitrogen content). YAN supplementation in the must did not affect substituted acid formation during AF. After MLF, short- and branched-chain alkyl fatty acid levels increased in wines made from musts with the highest nitrogen content (up to 56% in samples with the highest nitrogen content), whereas concentrations of hydroxycarboxylic acids increased (up to 55%) independently of the initial YAN content, highlighting the important role of MLF. (2S)-2-hydroxy-4-methylpentanoic acid was only found in wines after malolactic fermentation, suggesting different pathways for each enantiomer and opening up new prospects for the study of bacterial metabolisms. Moreover, sensory profiles revealed a significant increase in black-berry- and jammy-fruit aromas during MLF and a strong positive correlation between these aromas and the production of substituted esters following must nitrogen supplementation and MLF. Aromatic reconstitutions revealed that variations in the concentrations of substituted esters after MLF impacted the fruity aroma of red wines.