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Many flame retardants (FRs) are brominated, and many of them are considered toxic, persistent and/or bio accumulative. A switch to non-halogenated alternatives for textile finishing is considered beneficial, but there is little knowledge about their environmental impact, their health risks during the production process and those in their final use. A conventional and an alternative FR (based on dialkyl phosphono carboxylic acid amine and ammonium sulfamate; urea and organophosphonate PO(OH)2-R-PO(OH)2, respectively) were applied to cotton fabrics that could be in touch with the skin in their final use. Burning and thermal behaviors and dermal toxicity when exposed to skin rubbing are evaluated. Fabrics treated show that both FR products act as FRs. The increase in the thermal stability of the tissue that causes an increase in the decomposition temperature is a relevant effect associated with the application of the conventional FR in the tissue, while the most important effect of the alternative FR lies in the increase of the residue at 600°C, associated with the generation of fewer volatiles, which has an impact on the intensity of combustion. The study of the dermal toxic potential of FR-treated cotton bed sheets showed that the two tested products do not penetrate into the skin when applied under the conditions used and were safe when in contact with the skin. Moreover, the alternative FR seems to be safer when in contact with the skin considering also its higher concentration in the textile.

Expandable graphite was applied to an upholstery polyester textile material as an eco-friendly flame-retardant alternative to halogenated compounds. Fabrics treated with the flame retardant were evaluated by flammability tests. Besides, thermal analysis was carried out by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA). Moreover, a percutaneous absorption study was conducted to verify the safety in terms of dermal penetration of the flame-retardant treated upholstery fabric for human use. The upholstery fabric treated with expandable graphite successfully passed the flammability tests. Thermogravimetric analyses with TGA and DSC showed that the flame-retardant application slightly decreased the initial decomposition temperatures regardless of the atmosphere but increased the final residue at 600°C (35.7% in O2 and 44.5% in N2) compared to non-treated upholstered fabrics. Dermal permeation of expandable graphite applied on the polyester fabric showed no penetration after 24 h of fabric exposure time. This result demonstrated that graphite-treated polyester fabric is dermatologically and toxicologically safe for use in upholstery. Applied expandable graphite proved an efficient and safe flame-retardant alternative to conventional flame retardants for eco-friendly flame resistance applications in upholstery fabrics.

Ceramides extracted from wool fibers have proved to be beneficial in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations in the treatment and care of skin and human hair. This work sought to obtain internal wool lipid extract enriched in ceramides at pilot plant level without causing significant damage to the wool fiber. To this end, two extraction methodologies were performed using two solvents – acetone and methanol. Analyses of wool extracts were performed by thin layer chromatography coupled to an automated ionization detector, and chemical and mechanical evaluations of extracted wool were carried out. Larger amounts of ceramides were obtained when wool fibers were extracted with methanol than with acetone with some modifications of the fiber properties. This lipid extract could be a by-product with a high added value for the wool industry.

Twenty-three woolen, mixed and worsted woven fabrics made of wool, polyester/ wool, polyester/cellulosic and waste fibers underwent four different finishing treatments. The effect of the finishing on gray goods was studied by comparing the structural parameters and the results obtained by compressive and cyclic multiaxial strain testing. It was observed that finishing lead to a more fully, dimensionally stable and more relaxed fabric structure. By comparing the results obtained from finished fabrics it was possible to distinguish between the different groups of finished fabrics: Pure wool fabrics, non-pure wool fabrics, woolen fabrics made of warp worsted yarns (mixed fabrics) and pure worsted fabrics. The measured structural parameters were fabric density, thickness and mass per square meter, Eurotex and image analysis cover factors, air permeability and sonic velocity. The results given by compressional testing were compressibility, the Onions compressive index and Kawabata's linearity of compression. The results of the cyclic multiaxial strain testing were initial deformation, relaxation and creep indexes and bagginess after five deformation cycles.

The differential sdlubility and thermal analysis of three kinds of polyester fibers designed for rotor, worsted ring, and carded ring spinning are measured. Poly(ethylene terephthalate) yarns are obtained through the three processes and then analyzed. Using a thermomechanical analyzer, the thermal transitions of the different yarn types are determined. The crystallinity of fibers and yarns is measured by DSC. The relationship between thermal transitions, crystallinity, and differential solubility of the polyester fibers and yarns is studied and some inferences on its fine structure are reported.

Phosphatidylcholine liposomes appied to the dye bath (as ilternative to the dye auxiliaries currently used) is adequate at the pilot plant scale for dyeing untreated wool is at lower temperatures and shorter times than led in conventional wool dyeing with the azoic metal iplex 1:2 dye Lanaset Yellow 2R.