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Excessive melanogenesis leads to hyperpigmentation, which is one of the common skin conditions in humans. Existing whitening cosmetics cannot meet market needs due to their inherent limitations. Thus, the development of novel skin-whitening agents continues to be a challenge. The peptide OA-VI12 from the skin of amphibians at high altitude has attracted attention due to its remarkable anti light damage activity. However, whether OA-VI12 has the skin-whitening effect of inhibiting melanogenesis is still. Mouse melanoma cells (B16) were used to study the effect of OA-VI12 on cell viability and melanin content. The pigmentation model of C57B/6 mouse ear skin was induced by UVB and treated with OA-VI12. Melanin staining was used to observe the degree of pigmentation. MicroRNA sequencing, quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR), immunofluorescence analysis and Western blot were used to detect the change of factor expression. Double luciferase gene report experiment was used to prove the regulatory relationship between miRNA and target genes. OA-VI12 has no effect on the viability of B16 cells in the concentration range of 1–100 μM and significantly inhibits the melanin content of B16 cells. Topical application of OA-VI12, which exerted transdermal potency, prevented UVB-induced pigmentation of ear skin. MicroRNA sequencing and double luciferase reporter analysis results showed that miR-122-5p, which directly regulated microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf), had significantly different expression before and after treatment with OA-VI12. Mitf is a simple helix loop and leucine zipper transcription factor that regulates tyrosinase (Tyr) expression by binding to the M-box promoter element of Tyr. qRT-PCR, immunofluorescence analysis and Western blot showed that OA-VI12 up-regulated the expression of miR-122-5p and inhibited the expression of Mitf and Tyr. The effects of OA-VI12 on melanogenesis inhibition in vitro and in vivo may involve the miR-122-5p/Mitf/tyr axis. OA-VI12 represents the first report on a natural amphibian-derived peptide with skin-whitening capacity and the first report of miR-122-5p as a target for regulating melanogenesis, thereby demonstrating its potential as a novel skin-whitening agent and highlighting amphibian-derived peptides as an underdeveloped resource. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]