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The major (Mw 8.2) intraplate normal-fault earthquake of 8 September 2017 in the Gulf of Tehuantepec (Chiapas, Mexico) generated a strong tsunami that severely impacted the nearby coasts of Mexico and Central America. Tsunami waves in the near-field area were measured by seventeen high-resolution coastal tide gauges and by three open-ocean DART stations anchored offshore from the affected region. Data from these sites, together with those from four distant DARTs, were used for comprehensive analyses of the 2017 event. De-tided sea level time series were examined to determine the statistical and spectral characteristics of the 2017 tsunami waves along the Mexican and Central American coastline. The characteristics of the recorded waves from this near-field event were compared with those from two great far-field events: the 2010 Chile and the 2011 Tohoku tsunamis. Maximum trough-to-crest wave heights for the 2017 tsunami were recorded at Puerto Chiapas (351 cm), Salina Cruz (209 cm), Acapulco (160 cm), Huatulco (137 cm) and Acajutla, El Salvador (118 cm). While maximum 2010 and 2011 tsunami waves were observed at specific “hot spots” (sites with a high Q-factor and pronounced resonant properties, such as Manzanillo and Acapulco), the “strengths” of the recorded 2017 tsunami waves were mostly determined by distance from the source. Contrary to the maximum wave heights, the general spectral properties of the tsunami signals for all three events were highly similar at a given coastal site and mainly resemble the spectral structure of background oscillations at the same site. This similarity indicates that the frequency properties of the tsunami waveforms for a steady-state tsunami signal are mainly determined by local topographic features rather than by the source parameters. Estimates of the “colour” of an event (i.e., the open-ocean tsunami frequency content) show that the 2017 Chiapas tsunami was mostly “reddish” (long-period), with 68% (DART 43413) to 87% (DART 43412) of the total tsunami energy related to waves with periods > 35 min. In contrast, the 2010 and 2011 tsunamis were “reddish-blue”, with 48–57% associated with long-period waves (> 35 min) and 52–43% with short-period waves (2–35 min). The dominant periods of the tsunami waves were mostly linked to the shape, length, and width of the source region: the larger the source and the shallower its depth, the longer the periods of the generated tsunami waves. The complicated structure of the source explains the saturated and wide frequency-band character of the tsunami spectra. Our analysis also reveals an anisotropic nature to the 2017 tsunami waves; waves that propagated northeastward along the mainland coast of North America and southeastward along the Central American coast were significantly different from those that propagated southwestward, normal to the source orientation. This aspect of the wave field appears to be related to two distinct types of waves; “trapped (edge) waves” retained on the shelf (which plays the role of a “wave guide”), and “leaky waves” that radiate into the open ocean.

The major (Mw 7.9) earthquake that struck the Gulf of Alaska near Kodiak Island on 23 January 2018 was a rare, mid-plate strike-slip event that triggered a minor trans-Pacific tsunami. An analysis of the simultaneous measurements of tsunami waveforms at 21 open-ocean sites (including three independent arrays of stations) and 27 coastal tide gauges in the Gulf of Alaska and along the coast of North America has enabled us to examine properties of the 2018 tsunami, its transformation over the continental slope and shelf, and its amplification as the waves approached the coast. Results show that the tsunami wave variance decreased monotonically along the west coast from northern British Columbia to southern Oregon. Based on the variance structure, the mean amplification factor for Tofino on the west coast of Vancouver Island (a “beacon” site with a long time series), was $$A_{RMS}^{Tof}$$ = 5.3, in good agreement with corresponding estimates for four major past events; 4.5 (2009 Samoa), 4.3 (2010 Chile), 6.3 (2011 Tohoku) and 5.2 (2012 Haida Gwaii). This variance-derived amplification for Tofino was greater than the amplification factor based on the amplitude ratio ($$A_{{}}^{Tof}$$ = 3.2). Spectral analysis of the records showed that the tsunami had a relatively large high-frequency content (i.e., was “blueish”), with nearly 90% of the total energy in the open ocean at frequencies > 1.7 cph (periods

The five great trans-Pacific tsunamis of the 20th century that occurred in 1946, 1952, 1957, 1960 and 1964 were accurately recorded by analogue tide gauges on the coast of British Columbia. All available pen-and-paper records of these events were collected, digitised, de-tided and analysed. The 1946 Aleutian Islands event was recorded at two stations, Tofino and Victoria, where maximum trough-to-crest tsunami wave heights were 55 and 27 cm, respectively. These two gauged stations, as well as Prince Rupert, Alert Bay and Kitimat, also recorded the 1952 Kamchatka tsunami, which generated a maximum wave height of 77 cm at Tofino. The 1957 Andreanof Islands tsunami was recorded at six primary stations and the 1960 Chile tsunami by 17 primary and temporary tide gauges. For both of these events, the maximum tsunami wave heights also occurred at Tofino: 48 cm (1957) and 132 cm (1960). The 1964 Alaska tsunami remains the strongest tsunami yet instrumentally recorded on the coast of British Columbia. Our examination of 16 records from this event shows that maximum wave heights at eight stations were higher than 1 m, including Port Alberni (770 cm), Ocean Falls (376 cm), Tofino (237 cm) and Alert Bay (222 cm). We also find that the maximum wave at all stations for this event was among the first three waves. Subsequent wave heights rapidly attenuated following this group of waves. Frequency-time (f–t) analyses of the tsunami waveforms reveal that, for each station, the dominant frequencies of the waves and their evolution with time were very similar for different tsunamis, but differed considerably among sites for a particular tsunami, indicating the strong influence of local/regional topography on the incoming waves. From the latter point of view, the 1964 tsunami was exceptional. The epicentre of the 1964 Alaska earthquake was located much closer to the BC coast than for the other events and, therefore, the influence of the source was much stronger. The “ringing” of this tsunami was substantially shorter (

The Tohoku (East Japan) earthquake of 11 March 2011 (M w 9.0) generated a great trans-oceanic tsunami that spread throughout the Pacific Ocean, where it was measured by numerous coastal tide gauges and open-ocean DART (Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis) stations. Statistical and spectral analyses of the tsunami waves recorded along the Pacific coast of Mexico have enabled us to estimate the principal parameters of the waves along the coast and to compare statistical features of the tsunami with other tsunamis recorded on this coast. We identify coastal “hot spots”—Manzanillo, Zihuatanejo, Acapulco, and Ensenada—corresponding to sites having highest tsunami hazard potential, where wave heights during the 2011 event exceeded 1.5–2 m and tsunami-induced currents were strong enough to close port operations. Based on a joint spectral analysis of the tsunamis and background noise, we reconstructed the spectra of tsunami waves in the deep ocean and found that, with the exception of the high-frequency spectral band (>5 cph), the spectra are in close agreement with the “true” tsunami spectra determined from DART bottom pressure records. The departure of the high-frequency spectra in the coastal region from the deep-sea spectra is shown to be related to background infragravity waves generated in the coastal zone. The total energy and frequency content of the Tohoku tsunami is compared with the corresponding results for the 2010 Chilean tsunami. Our findings show that the integral open-ocean tsunami energy, I 0, was ~2.30 cm2, or approximately 1.7 times larger than for the 2010 event. Comparison of this parameter with the mean coastal tsunami variance (451 cm2) indicates that tsunami waves propagating onshore from the open ocean amplified by 14 times; the same was observed for the 2010 tsunami. The “tsunami colour” (frequency content) for the 2011 Tohoku tsunami was “red”, with about 65% of the total energy associated with low-frequency waves at frequencies 35 min). The “red colour” (i.e., the prevalence of low-frequency waves) in the 2011 Tohoku, as well as in the 2010 Chile tsunamis, is explained by the large extension of the source areas. In contrast, the 2014 and 2015 Chilean earthquakes had much smaller source areas and, consequently, induced “bluish” (high-frequency) tsunamis.

The three great earthquakes off the coast of Chile on 27 February 2010 (Maule, Mw 8.8), 1 April 2014 (Iquique, Mw 8.2) and 16 September 2015 (Illapel, Mw 8.3) generated major transoceanic tsunamis that spread throughout the Pacific Ocean and were measured by numerous coastal tide gauges and open-ocean DART stations. Statistical and spectral analyses of the tsunami waves from the events recorded on the Pacific coast of Mexico enabled us to estimate parameters of the waves along the coast and to compare statistical features of the events. We also identified three coastal “hot spots” (sites having maximum tsunami risk): Puerto Angel, Puerto Madero and Manzanillo. Based on the joint spectral analyses of the tsunamis and background noise, we have developed a method for using coastal observations to determine the underlying spectrum of tsunami waves in the deep ocean. The “reconstructed” open-ocean tsunami spectra are in close agreement with the actual tsunami spectra evaluated from direct analysis of the DART records offshore of Mexico. We have further used the spectral estimates to parameterize the energy of the three Chilean tsunamis based on the total open-ocean tsunami energy and frequency content of the individual events.

A major (M w 7.7) earthquake occurred on October 28, 2012 along the Queen Charlotte Fault Zone off the west coast of Haida Gwaii (formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands). The earthquake was the second strongest instrumentally recorded earthquake in Canadian history and generated the largest local tsunami ever recorded on the coast of British Columbia. A field survey on the Pacific side of Haida Gwaii revealed maximum runup heights of up to 7.6 m at sites sheltered from storm waves and 13 m in a small inlet that is less sheltered from storms (Leonard and Bednarski 2014). The tsunami was recorded by tide gauges along the coast of British Columbia, by open-ocean bottom pressure sensors of the NEPTUNE facility at Ocean Networks Canada’s cabled observatory located seaward of southwestern Vancouver Island, and by several DART stations located in the northeast Pacific. The tsunami observations, in combination with rigorous numerical modeling, enabled us to determine the physical properties of this event and to correct the location of the tsunami source with respect to the initial geophysical estimates. The initial model results were used to specify sites of particular interest for post-tsunami field surveys on the coast of Moresby Island (Haida Gwaii), while field survey observations (Leonard and Bednarski 2014) were used, in turn, to verify the numerical simulations based on the corrected source region.

The major (M w = 8.8) Chilean earthquake of 27 February 2010 generated a trans-oceanic tsunami that was observed throughout the Pacific Ocean. Waves associated with this event had features similar to those of the 1960 tsunami generated in the same region by the Great (M w = 9.5) 1960 Chilean Earthquake. Both tsunamis were clearly observed on the coast of British Columbia. The 1960 tsunami was measured by 17 analog pen-and-paper tide gauges, while the 2010 tsunami was measured by 11 modern digital coastal tide gauges, four NEPTUNE-Canada bottom pressure recorders located offshore from southern Vancouver Island, and two nearby open-ocean DART stations. The 2010 records were augmented by data from seven NOAA tide gauges on the coast of Washington State. This study examines the principal characteristics of the waves from the 2010 event (height, period, duration, and arrival and travel times) and compares these properties for the west coast of Canada with corresponding properties of the 1960 tsunami. Results show that the 2010 waves were approximately 3.5 times smaller than the 1960 waves and reached the British Columbia coast 1 h earlier. The maximum 2010 wave heights were observed at Port Alberni (98.4 cm) and Winter Harbour (68.3 cm); the observed periods ranged from 12 min at Port Hardy to 110–120 min at Prince Rupert and Port Alberni and 150 min at Bamfield. The open-ocean records had maximum wave heights of 6–11 cm and typical periods of 7 and 15 min. Coastal and open-ocean tsunami records revealed persistent oscillations that “rang” for 3–4 days. Tsunami energy occupied a broad band of periods from 3 to 300 min. Estimation of the inverse celerity vectors from cross-correlation analysis of the deep-sea tsunami records shows that the tsunami waves underwent refraction as they approached the coast of Vancouver Island with the direction of the incoming waves changing from an initial direction of 340° True to a direction of 15° True for the second train of waves that arrived 7 h later after possible reflection from the Marquesas and Hawaiian islands.

The catastrophic Indian Ocean tsunami generated off the coast of Sumatra on 26 December 2004 was recorded by a large number of tide gauges throughout the World Ocean. This study uses gauge records from 173 sites to examine the characteristics and energy decay of the tsunami waves from this event in the Indian, Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Findings reveal that the decay (e-folding) time of the tsunami wave energy within a given oceanic basin is not uniform, as previously reported, but depends on the absorption characteristics of the shelf adjacent to the coastal observation site and the time for the waves to reach the site from the source region. In general, the decay times for island and open-ocean bottom stations are found to be shorter than for coastal mainland stations. Decay times for the 2004 Sumatra tsunami ranged from about 13 h for islands in the Indian Ocean to 40–45 h for mainland stations in the North Pacific.

The M w = 9.3 megathrust earthquake of December 26, 2004 off the northwest coast of Sumatra in the Indian Ocean generated a catastrophic tsunami that was recorded by a large number of tide gauges throughout the World Ocean. Part 1 of our study of this event examines tide gauge measurements from the Indian Ocean region, at sites located from a few hundred to several thousand kilometers from the source area. Statistical characteristics of the tsunami waves, including wave height, duration, and arrival time, are determined, along with spectral properties of the tsunami records.

The Mw=9.3 megathrust earthquake of December 26, 2004 off the coast of Sumatra in the Indian Ocean generated a catastrophic tsunami that caused widespread damage in coastal areas and left more than 226,000 people dead or missing. The Sumatra tsunami was accurately recorded by a large number of tide gauges throughout the world's oceans. This paper examines the amplitudes, frequencies and wave train structure of tsunami waves recorded by tide gauges located more than 20,000 km from the source area along the Pacific and Atlantic coasts of North America.

Data for tsunamigenic earthquakes and observed tsunami run-up are used to estimate tsunami-risk for the coasts of Peru and northern Chile for zones bounded by 5–35° S latitude. Tsunamigenic earthquake estimates yield magnitudes of 8.52, 8.64, and 8.73 for recurrence periods of 50, 100, and 200 years, respectively. Based on three different empirical relations between earthquake magnitudes and tsunamis, we estimate expected tsunami wave heights for various return periods. The average heights were 11.2 m (50 years), 13.7 m (100 years), and 15.9 m (200 years), while the maximum height values (obtained by Iida’s method) were: 13.9, 17.3, and 20.4 m, respectively. Both the “averaged” and “maximum” seismological estimates of tsunami wave heights for this region are significantly smaller than the actually observed tsunami run-up of 24–28 m, for the major events of 1586, 1724, 1746, 1835, and 1877. Based directly on tsunami run-up data, we estimate tsunami wave heights of 13 m for a 50-year return period and 25 m for a 100-year return period. According to the “seismic gap” theory, we can expect that the next strong earthquake and tsunami will occur between 19 and 28° S in the vicinity of northern Chile.

A modified and corrected version of the viscous slide model of JIANG and LEBLOND (1994) is used to assess the tsunami risk associated with hypothetical underwater slope failures in two coastal areas of British Columbia having potentially unstable sediment deposits: (a) Malaspina Strait, separating the mainland coast and Texada Island in the central Strait of Georgia; and (b) Roberts Bank on the foreslope of the Fraser River Delta in the southern Strait of Georgia. The intent of this study is to demonstrate the capability of the model for tsunami risk assessment and to improve upon previous studies of tsunami risk in the region based on reasonable submarine landslide scenarios. The potential risk from tsunamis associated with slide failures has been examined, but the likelihood of failure events themselves was not considered. For the Malaspina Strait scenarios, simulated tsunamis are generated by failure of a lobe of perched sediment situated on the slope of eastern Texada Island. Failure as a flow slide of the estimated 1,250,000 m 3 of sediment generates wave troughs reaching � 4:9 m and trough-to-crest heights of 6 to 8 m along the coast of Texada Island. At Cape Cockburn, on the opposite side of the strait, wave heights of 1.5 to 2.0 m are produced. For Roberts Bank, simulated waves are examined for two separate failure scenarios. The larger slide (Case 1) involves the failure of a sediment lobe with lateral dimensions of 7 · 3k m 2 and volume of 0.75 km 3 while the smaller slide (Case 2) fails a sediment lobe with dimensions of 4 · 2.6 km 2 and volume of 0.23 km 3 . Computations were made both for high (+3 m) and low (� 3 m) tide conditions. For both failure volumes, maximum wave amplitudes (up to 18 m for Case 1 and 8 m for Case 2) occur on the coasts of Mayne and Galiano Islands, opposite the source area. Wave amplitudes are much smaller (1 to 4 m) on the mainland coast because of the reflection of the initial waves from Roberts Bank. Additional numerical experiments were conducted for both regions to estimate the sensitivity of the computed tsunami wave heights to input parameters, such as slide viscosity, bulk density, and slide position.

Hydrographic surveys and satellite imaging reveal that mesoscale anticyclonic (AC) eddies are common features of the area south of Bussol' Strait, the deepest of the Kuril straits connecting the western North Pacific and Sea of Okhotsk. To examine the velocity structure of these eddies, we deployed groups of 15-m drogued satellite-tracked surface drifters over the Kuril-Kamchatka Trench in the fall of 1990 and late summer of 1993. Drifters in both groups entered large AC eddies centered over the axis of the trench seaward of Bussol' Strait and subsequently underwent a slow northeastward translation. One drifter (Drifter 1315) deployed near the center of the “Bussol' eddy” in 1990, remained in the eddy for roughly 45 days and made five loops at successively greater distances from the eddy center. Large-amplitude (80–100 cm/s) storm-generated inertial oscillations were observed during the first two loops. The vorticity field associated with the eddy resulted in a Doppler “red-shift” of inertial frequency motions such that the “effective” inertial period of 21 hours was roughly 4 hours greater than the nominal inertial period for the drifter latitude (45°N). In 1993, a second drifter (Drifter 15371) was retained in the Bussol' eddy for about 40 days. This eddy had characteristics similar to those of the 1990 eddy but was devoid of significant high-frequency motions until the drifter's final half loop. The observed spatial scales, persistence, and slow poleward translation of the eddies suggests that they play an important role in the dynamics of the East Kamchatka and Oyashio current systems.

A near-surface satellite-tracked drifter launched off the east coast of the Kuril Islands on September 4,1993 began a 2.5-year Odyssey across the North Pacific Ocean. During its travels, the drifter encountered numerous energetic oceanographic regimes as it moved from the region of the Kuril-Kamchatka Trench to the continental margin of the Kuril Islands, through Friza Strait into the Sea of Okhotsk, seaward again through Bussol’ Strait, and then eastward across the North Pacific. Oceanic features detected along the basin-wide trajectory include a quasi-permanent anticyclonic eddy over the Kuril-Kamchatka Trench, open-ocean wind-driven inertial oscillations, coastal-trapped diurnal shelf waves, semidiurnal tidal currents, transient cyclonic and anticyclonic eddies, through-strait flows, and wave-like mesoscale meanders. The single drifter track delineates the dynamically-rich variability of upper ocean currents, emphasizes the marked difference in flow dynamics between boundary and open ocean regions, and provides a time-scale for the movement of surface waters across the entire North Pacific.

Three sets of zooplankton trawls with multiple nets were deployed in June 1990 within a deep (2000 m) scattering layer overlying the central hydrothermal vent field on the Endeavour segment of Juan de Fuca Ridge in the northeast Pacific. Trawl data were collected concurrently with temperature, salinity, light attenuation and acoustic (150 kHz) backscatter profiles. We describe the composition, size distribution and biomass of zooplankton collected in the net samples, and compare biomass distributions with physical characteristics of the hydrothermal plume. The nine discrete trawl samples (1 mm mesh) contained zooplankton biomass of between 0.3 and 21 mg dry wt m-3 with the highest biomass samples coincident with large and positive (+20 dB) acoustic backscatter anomalies observed above the top of the hydrothermal plume. Lowest biomass samples were coincident with small, negative (-5 dB) backscatter anomalies within the core of the plume. Results suggest that the region within a hundred meters of the top of the plume was a zone of enhanced zooplankton concentration associated with nutrition enrichment related to the plume. In contrast, the plume core was a zone of faunal depletion, presumably linked to adverse plume chemistry. The species composition and size distribution profiles from net samples revealed that the epi-plume assemblage contained several trophic levels of bathypelagic fauna, but did not contain benthic larvae or vent-related benthopelagic fauna.