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This article examines the clothing of landowning farmers in inland Swedish from a gendered perspective during industrialisation in the nineteenth century. It considers clothes as possessions and goods within a European framework of trade and influence. In particular, it shows how clothing was a means of expression that changed during the course of industrialisation and how gender became an important factor in the supply and making of clothes. In the region examined, clothing changed from being a local fashion, characterised by similarities in material and workmanship between men's and women's clothes, to become a part of fashion in general with its emphasis on differences between men's and women's wardrobes. In the early nineteenth century, the female wardrobe accounted for a higher value as it included a greater share of garments made of manufactured fabrics. In late nineteenth century, when industrial forestry had replaced livestock farming as the main source of income in the area, men's wardrobes grew in value due to increased demand for tailor‐made garments and purchased fabrics. By contrast, women's garments were often made of simpler fabrics and sewn by seamstresses. These changes responded to the growing breadwinner–homemaker ideal and to national‐romantic ideas about folk costume – two tendencies that emphasised female domesticity and home‐woven fabrics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper explores the clothing and representation of the galli priests of Cybele in late Republican and early Imperial Rome. The galli were male‐bodied, but practiced self‐castration and wore traditionally feminine clothing and makeup, which the article argues placed them outside any expected gender binary and allowed them to inhabit a non‐binary identity. The article applies contemporary drag theory and the relationship between clothing and identity, particularly in respect of (assumed) incongruity, to explore the ways in which the galli's identity is visible in the Roman world. In the final section, a case study is made of the way the galli are represented in Lucian of Samosata's On the Syrian Goddess. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

An introduction to the journal is presented, which brings together a range of articles considering the relationship between dress and gender in different historical pieces. Other topics discussed include musician Harry Styles and how dress is often a marker for identity.

As Australia's Second World War servicemen began returning home, many anticipated the pleasure of stepping out of their uniforms for the last time. Yet scholarship on the role clothing played in repatriation and post‐war rehabilitation in Australia remains scarce. Exploring the post‐war swing towards sportswear, the article considers the growing idea of relaxed bodies and the language of comfort that underpinned it. It argues that being attentive to men's dress allows us to engage with a reframing of attractive, able, white, heterosexual bodies that combined two icons of Australian masculinity – the Anzac and the athlete – into a more relaxed vision of manliness. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Dandyism was a spreading phenomenon in the cities of the late nineteenth century. Its more bourgeois and literary aspects are well researched, but it also influenced a number of youth subcultures that were seldom expressed in written or published forms except when journals and newspapers derided them. One of these was the character of the masher which emerged as a distinctly British variation during the middle of the century and was established as a form of popular dandy type in the 1880s. It is typical for a phenomenon like this to remain unexpressed, but a curious short-lived periodical entitled ‘The Masher’ was published in a few issues in 1883 during the height of the masher culture’s popularity. Through a study of the issues of this journal and the contents of its articles, this article aims at contemplating masher culture as a specific male subculture and testing the notion that this journal was a manifestation of it. Considering aspects of gender, performativity, dress and cultures of frivolity, the discussion centres around the self-irony and affectedness of the masher role, and its relation to other forms of more respectable dandyism. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The article discusses the depiction of muslims in Marvel Comics. It states that before 9/11, Muslims were figures of orientalist imagination, having been characterized as Arabs and depicted in stereotypical dress and manner, with dark skin, turbans, and large moustaches. It explains how the multiplicity of authorship is removed and only one authentic story is created when creating the canon of a character.

This article considers the clothing choices made by some of the Tudor (and Stewart) elite who met their end on the scaffold. While the final speeches of the condemned have been analysed, what they chose to wear has been neglected - yet contemporary observers often recorded their choices in detail indicating that it was significant to both the prisoner and their audience. By exploring the clothes worn for trials and executions, and the significance of undressing in public, this article argues that most elite prisoners used clothing to make a final statement, the nature of which could range from defiance to a wish to make a dignified end. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper examines the strengths and limitations of late Directoire Journal des Dames et des Modes fashion plates. It observes the phenomenon of 'drawn-from-life' sub-captioned plates from 1798 to 1799, which provide contextualising factual information. The research questions the assumed omnipresence of the sheer, white, short-sleeved, columnal Directoire dress. The Journal's plates tell a different story, where certain traditions persist and a much broader range of dress styles, silhouettes and colours subsist. The study demonstrates the limits of broad generalisation and seeks to expand our understanding of classicism's influence on dress and embodiment practices in the late eighteenth century. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]