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Copyright of International Journal of Cosmetic Science is the property of Wiley-Blackwell and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Background: Damage to hair by UV is relevant to most people, and for many, it is a major source of hair damage. Prevention of UV damage is of high interest to cosmetic companies. Objectives: Describe UV damage mechanisms and link these mechanisms to measurable changes in hair protein composition and color changes resulting from breakdown of yellow‐colored kynurenines. Test the power of botanical antioxidants, specifically Camellia sinensis (tea) extracts to prevent this protein damage and color change. Link specific phytochemistry of extract samples to hair performance. Methods: Camellia sinensis (tea) extracts were analyzed by LC‐MS to identify the key composition chemistries. ORAC (Oxygen Radical Antioxidant Capacity) was used to measure ability of the extract to react with a peroxyl radical via a hydrogen abstraction mechanism. Hair protein structural damage was measured by quantification of a biomarker peptide that is specific to UV‐induced damage and hair color changes were measured with a spectrophotometer. Results: Levels of key phytochemistry in the extracts, specifically the catechins, correlated with prevention of UV‐induced protein damage and prevention of color changes due to kynurenine breakdown. Extracts with higher phytochemistry levels also had higher ORAC scores indicating that they were more effective antioxidants. Conclusions: Camellia sinensis (tea) extracts can be used as effective protective treatments for hair protection but this efficacy is linked to extract concentrations of key chemistries (catechins). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Scientific studies of Aloe vera have tentatively explained therapeutic claims from a mechanistic perspective. Furthermore, in vitro outcomes demonstrate that the breakage of acemannan chains into smaller fragments enhances biological effects. These fragments can intravenously boost vaccine efficacy or entrain the immune system to attack cancer cells by mannose receptor agonism of macrophage or dendritic cells. With oral consumption, epithelialisation also occurs at injured sites in the small intestine or colon. The main advantage of dietary acemannan is the attenuation of the digestive process, increasing satiety, and slowing the release of sugars from starches. In the colon, acemannan is digested by microbes into short‐chain fatty acids that are absorbed and augment the sensation of satiety and confer a host of other health benefits. In topical applications, an acemannan/chitosan combination accelerates the closure of wounds by promoting granular tissue formation, which creates a barrier between macrophages or neutrophils and the wound dressing. This causes M2 polarisation, reversal of inflammation, and acceleration of the re‐epithelialisation process. This review summarises and explains the current pharmacodynamic paradigm in the context of acemannan in topical, oral, and intravenous applications. However, due to contradictory results in the literature, further research is required to provide scientific evidence to confirm or nullify these claims. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

One of the side effects of oral antiaging retinoids is increased hair shedding. Retinoids promote the expression of TGF‐β2 from fibroblasts, which stimulate collagen expression but silences keratinocytes. Since keratinocytes normally influence differentiation of dermal papilla cells at the base of the hair follicle, retinoids feasibly inhibit hair growth via the increased expression of TGF‐β2, which inhibits Wnt/β‐catenin signaling. Fortunately, the plant kingdom provides an array of alternatives as dual‐acting nutricosmetics and topicals that work independently of TGF‐β2 to confer dermal antiaging and hair health effects. These alternatives include "plant hormones" such as cytokinins and phytoestrogens. Many cytokinins are agonists of the G‐coupled adenosine receptors. Partial agonism of adenosine receptors promotes collagen synthesis independently of TGF‐β2 signaling. Adenosine expression is potentially also the mechanism of minoxidil in promotion of scalp hair growth. Because of crosstalk between adenosine and cannabinoid receptors it makes sense to try combinations of specific CB2 agonists and cytokinins (or phytoestrogens). However, dual‐acting cosmetics including peptides with high numbers of positively charged amino acids, such as lysine or arginine, offer real potential as they can be processed from multiple botanical candidates, including almond, fenugreek, pea sprouts, soy, and seaweeds. The current review summarizes much of what is known about retinoid alternatives in the plant kingdom and identifies potentially fruitful new areas of research. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Social Impact Statement: Patents can be used as a measure of innovation and to illustrate the commercial potential of plant and fungal biodiversity. The proportion of plant species named in patents represents only 6.2% of plant species, whereas the proportion of fungi is likely less than 0.4%. Fungi clearly justify further research. Innovation on a species usually drives more innovation on that species. We suggest that we should ensure that commercialization frameworks encourage studies on a greater diversity of plants and fungi. This could not only increase the range of biodiversity‐based products and associated income but also incentivize their conservation and encourage more fundamental research. Summary: In this review, patents are used as a measure of innovation, and data show that a low proportion of plant and fungal biodiversity is mentioned in patents. The proportion of plant species named in patents represents only 6.2% of plant species, whereas the proportion of fungi is most likely less than 0.4%. The number of species within a plant family mentioned in patents varies greatly. The following families having the greatest numbers: Asteraceae with 1,445 species (4.5% of species), Fabaceae with 1,299 species (5.8%), Poaceae with 1,008 species (8.5%), and Rosaceae with 718 species (12.7%). Case studies from Brazil, Ethiopia, and South Africa explore some of the controversies associated with patenting, especially when patents have not taken prior art into account. In contrast, a case study on plants and fungi used in traditional Chinese medicine illustrates their economic value and their potential to support new innovations. Innovative ways to use plant and fungal biodiversity has the potential to generate wealth, reduce poverty, improve human well‐being and in theory incentivize biodiversity conservation. International and national policies and laws that aim to facilitate equitable benefit‐sharing associated with access to and use of genetic diversity need to be reviewed to help facilitate innovation, as well as ensure that the rights of communities to use these resources are recognized and supported. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Societal Impact Statement: The United Nations' Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 17 calls for "strong global partnerships and cooperation" to support the other SDGs. The collections‐based science community offers many examples of conservation of plant and fungal biodiversity, sharing, repatriation and aggregation of data, access to new technologies, supply of plant and fungal material, strengthening capacity of practitioners, and benefit sharing with the providers of biodiversity and genetic resources. Collaboration framed by workable multilateral treaties will increase our understanding of plant and fungal diversity, help halt biodiversity loss, and accelerate our sustainable use of plants and fungi and the exploration of their useful traits. Summary: Collections‐based institutes are at the forefront of generating knowledge and understanding of plant and fungal biodiversity. Through the analysis of occurrence data, the use of modern technologies to better understand the evolutionary relationships between species and documentation of their useful properties, the work of collections‐based institutes provides good models for conservation; addressing species loss and improving sustainable use of plants and fungi. Nevertheless, the pressure on the planet's plant and fungal diversity is relentless. We argue that a massive increase in the accessibility of preserved and living collections of plants and fungi is required. An increased scale of responsible exploration to both conserve and unlock the useful properties of plants and fungi is needed to deliver solutions to the many global challenges facing humanity and the planet. This article explores the role of collaborations between collections‐based institutes and their partners in preventing biodiversity loss and delivering sustainable development. Drawing on examples from herbaria, agricultural and wild species genebanks, mycological collections, an international NGO, and the botanic garden community, we demonstrate how collaboration improves efficiency and impact. Collaborations can be peer to peer, institutional, governmental, national, or international, they may involve work with local communities and are frequently a combination of these. We suggest the five key benefits to collaboration and show that with trust, understanding, and mutual respect, powerful and sustainable partnerships develop. Such trust and respect are hard won, but once established, sustain a high level of commitment, enable development of shared long‐term visions of success, and attract diverse funding streams. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

For all but a very few highly specialized insect feeders, Canna generalis L. (Cannaceae) is unacceptable as a food plant and is a highly potent feeding deterrent for the tobacco hornworm Manduca sexta Johan. (Lepidoptera). The present study describes the isolation of an active deterrent compound, rosmarinic acid (RA) from the ethanol extract of canna leaves. A two‐choice bioassay shows that RA is a feeding deterrent in the concentration range 0.3–3 mm. Bilateral ablation of the oral chemoreceptors eliminates this deterrence. The results reported in the behavioural literature show that only the epipharyngeal sensilla and the medial (but not the lateral) styloconica contribute to this deterrence elicited by canna foliage or extract, and the data obtained in the present study show the same results using RA. Electrophysiological recordings from the medial styloconica show that RA primarily stimulates the 'deterrent neurone' in a concentration‐dependent manner with a threshold of approximately 0.03 mm and a peak frequency of 69 spikes s–1 at 0.1 mm RA. An extract of canna leaves elicits similar responses. Adding RA to canna extract does not elicit another class of spikes, indicating that both stimuli activate the same neurone. We discuss the significance of the results with respect to furthering our knowledge about the sensory basis of food selection, and specifically about the range of compounds that stimulate deterrent chemosensitive neurones of lepidopteran larvae. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Pelargonium graveolens (Geraniaceae) was characterized with respect to its chemical composition, antioxidant potential and antimicrobial activities. This is the first investigation focusing on the comparison of both essential oil and polar extracts from this species. The chemical composition of the essential oil of the aerial parts of P. graveolens was analyzed by gas chromatography/mass spectrometry. The main constituents of the oil were found to be β-citronellol (21.9%), citronellyl formate (13.2%), geraniol (11.1%), 10-epi-γ-eudesmol (7.9%), geranyl formate (6.2%) and (l)-linalool (5.6%). Nine flavonoids were identified by high-performance liquid chromatography-MS in leaf and flower extracts. Kaempferol 3- O-rhamnoside-glucoside, isorhamnetin aglycone, quercetin 3- O-glucoside, kaempferol 3,7-di- O-glucoside, quercetin 3- O-pentose and kaempferol 3- O-glucoside, quercetin 3- O-rhamnoside-glucoside, quercetin 3- O-pentoside-glucoside, myrisetin 3- O-glucoside-rhamnoside flavonoids were detected in methanolic and aqueous extracts, respectively. The total flavonoids ranged between 29.9 and 78.2 mg QE/g in flower water and methanol extracts, respectively, and 22.5 and 71.2 mg QE/g dry weight in leaf water and methanol extracts, respectively. The highest antioxidant activities using two methods of free radical scavenging capacities were obtained with the essential oil (9.16 mM of Trolox and 2.68 µg/ml). All P. graveolens essential oil and polar extracts were active against at least one bacterium. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The antimicrobial activity of the sequential n-hexane, acetone and 50% aqueous methanol extracts of leaves, stem bark and roots of four species of medicinal plants, Cassia sieberiana DC. (Leguminosae), Haematostaphis barteri Hook. f. (Anacardiaceae), Mitragyna inermis (Willd.) O. Kuntze (Rubiaceae) and Pseudocedrela kotschyi (Schweinf.) Harms (Meliaceae), from Ghana were tested against Bacillus subtilis, Pseudomonas syringae and Cladosporium herbarum using TLC direct-autobiographic methods . Extracts from leaves, stem bark and roots of the four species gave a positive result against at least one test organism. Twelve of the 36 extracts were active against B. subtilis, four extracts were active against P. syringae and six were active against C. herbarum. Preliminary chemical analysis revealed the presence of flavonoids, stilbenes and alkaloids. This is the first report of a stilbene from the Anacardiaceae. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

No-choice and binary-choice bioassays were used to test the effect of a range of plant-derived insecticides on the behaviour of larvae of the black blowfly Phormia regina (Meigen). Azadirachtin (100 and 10 ppm), pyrethrum extract (10 ppm) and the naphthoquinone BTG 505 (1000 ppm) acted as deterrents for P. regina larvae. The mortality of larvae was reduced in instances where they moved away from a treated diet. Larvae given a choice were heavier, when compared with larvae reared exclusively on diets containing either azadirachtin (100 or 10 ppm) or the naphthoquinones, BTG 504 (1000 ppm) or BTG 505 (1000 ppm). The deterrent effect of azadirachtin, pyrethrum and the naphthoquinone BTG 505 together with their larvicidal activity, could be utilized in prophylaxis against myiasis infections due to larvae of Phormia regina. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The antibacterial activity of extracts from species of plants used in the Chinese medicine, Zi Hua Di Ding ( Viola yedoensis, V. prionantha, Corydalis bungeana and Gueldenstaedtia verna), was tested against Bacillus subtilis and Pseudomonas syringae using a bioautographic assay. The petroleum ether and ethyl acetate extracts of all four species of plants showed activity against both species of bacteria, whereas the methanol and aqueous methanol extracts were inactive. Three fractions from the petroleum ether extracts of V. yedoensis, V. prionantha and C. bungeana showed activity against B. subtilis at 6.25 µg/mL. Preliminary analysis of these active fractions indicates that they contain long chain carboxylic acids. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Photo-oxidation of the neem limonoids nimbin and salannin with UV fight in the presence of oxygen gives two isomeric lactone products per limonoid, nimbinolide and isonimbinolide, and salanninolide and isosalanninofide, respectively. When compared in insect tests with the important limonoids of neem seeds, azadirachtin, nimbin and salannin, isonimbinolide and isosalanninolide show activity greater than that of nimbin or salannin and in some respects show activity approaching that of azadirachtin. The photo-oxidation products were tested for antifeedant activity and toxicity against larvae of three species of Lepidoptera, Spodoptera littoralis (Boisd), Spodoptera frugiperda (FE Smith) and Helicoverpa armigera (Hübner) and nymphs of the locusts Schistocerca gregaria (Forskål) and Locusta migratoria (L). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A short duration (24 h) leaf-disc bioassay was used to determine the effects of teflubenzuron residues on the predation levels of two predators, Iphiseius degenerans (Berlese) and Orius laevigatus (Fieber), foraging on nymphs of two species of thrips, Frankliniella occidentalis (Pergande) and Heliothrips haernorrhoidalis (Bouché), on a range of different species of plant. Teflubenzuron did cause thrips mortality during the 24-h bioassay; it was more active against H haernorrhoidalis than F occidentalis. Teflubenzuron did not cause significant mortality to either species of predator, although on some plants the effectiveness of both predators was reduced in the presence of teflubenzuron. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective Methods Results Conclusions The objective of this work was to understand how triglyceride plant oils can deliver strength and softness benefits to hair by their penetration. These plant oils are complex mixtures of TAGs, so the initial studies performed were with pure TAGs and then these data compared to plant oils and their measured TAG compositions.LC–MS was used to identify the di and triglycerides in coconut oil, Camellia oleifera oil and safflower seed oil. Penetration of these plant oils and pure individual triglycerides was measured by a differential extraction method. Cross‐sections of oils treated with 13C‐labelled triolein were studied by NanoSIMS to visualize location of triglyceride inside hair. Fatigue strength was measured using constant stress to generate a survival distribution. Models of the lipid‐rich cell membrane complex (CMC) were created with the equimolar ratio of 18‐methyl‐eicosanoic acid (MEAS), palmitic acid (C16:0) and oleic acid (C18:1).Penetration of the individual pure TAGs was confirmed for all chain lengths and degree of unsaturation tested with higher penetration for shorter chain lengths and unsaturated fatty acids. Detailed compositional analysis of selected plant oils showed a wide variety of TAGs and penetration was also demonstrated for these oils. NanoSIMS and modelling confirmed these TAGs are penetrating the lipid‐rich CMC of hair and are interacting with the fatty acids that make up the CMC. All plant oils delivered a fatigue strength improvement by penetration into the CMC and it is proposed that these oils prevent formation and/or propagation of flaws in the CMC network that leads to breakage.Many plant oils with a wide range of triglyceride compositions can penetrate into hair and NanoSIMS data confirmed these oils partition into the lipid‐rich cell membrane complex. Penetration studies of individual TAGs shown to be present in these oils confirmed TAGs of varying chain length can penetrate and there is a correlation between increased penetration efficacy and shorter chain lengths and presence of unsaturation in the fatty acid chains. All the oils studied delivered single fibre fatigue strength benefits. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]