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Marine energy development has been actively promoted in recent years. Analyzing wave data in the surrounding sea areas is crucial for improving wave power generator efficiency. This study collected unidirectional wave spectrum data from the northeast coastal area of Taiwan (e.g., Pengjia Islet, Fugui Cape, and NTOU). It aimed to analyze the main wave types (i.e., wind waves, swell, or mixed sea) and their proportions during the northeast and non-northeast monsoon periods. The results indicate that swell waves dominate at the NTOU buoy, while wind waves dominate at the other two stations. In addition, the analysis of wave spectra ratios revealed a low percentage of unimodal spectra (only about 0.5%), and bimodal and unformed spectra presented as predominant. Furthermore, this study also introduced a brand new JW-J wave spectrum, which combines the JW and JONSWAP spectra to describe low-frequency (swell) and high-frequency (wind wave) systems, showing superior performance compared to the Torsethaugen spectrum. Finally, this research analyzed the JW-J spectrum parameters from the Pengjia Islet and Fugui Cape stations and applied these results to the NTOU bouy for effectively describing wind/swell wave variations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This paper presents a new Boussinesq-type model equations for describing nonlinear surface wave motions in porous media. The mathematical model based on perturbation approach reported by Hsiao et al. is derived. The drag force and turbulence effect suggested by Sollitt and Cross are incorporated for observing the flow behaviors within porous media. Additionally, the approach of Chen for eliminating the depth-dependent terms in the momentum equations is also adopted. The model capability on an applicable water depth range is satisfactorily validated against the linear wave theory. The nonlinear properties of model equations are numerically confirmed by the weakly nonlinear theory of Liu and Wen. Numerical experiments of regular waves propagating in porous media over an impermeable submerged breakwater are performed and the nonlinear behaviors of wave energy transfer between different harmonics are also examined. DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)EM.1943-7889.0000098 CE Database subject headings: Porous media; Damping; Boussinesq equations; Water waves; Wave propagation. Author keywords: Subaerial; Depth-integrated equation; Porous media; Damping rate.