Search

Two well-known third generation wave models, SWAN and WAVEWATCH-III, with different assumptions for high cut-off frequency were used to evaluate the interaction of low and high frequency components in wave spectral evolution. The results showed that WAM cycle 3 formulation overestimates the energy content in frequency band of 0.5–1 Hz for Gulf of Mexico, which suggests using cut-off frequency close to 0.5 Hz rather than 1 Hz would improve the simulated bulk wave parameters. The evaluation of WAM cycle 4 and a newer nonlinear formulation implemented recently for white capping in SWAN also showed the better performance of wave model in oceanic scale with cut-off frequency close to 0.5 Hz. However, WAM cycle 3 was more sensitive to cut-off frequency as well as to the exponent used in the expression for the frequency tail, than other formulations in SWAN. The use of f − 5 tail shape, rather than the f − 4 form for the frequency spectrum beyond both cut-off frequencies used in this study, resulted in better agreement between simulated and observed wave parameters for most of the formulations implemented in these models. Also, it was demonstrated that WAM cycle 3 with dynamic cut-off frequency outperformed the corresponding configuration with static cut-off frequency. The suggested modifications for cut-off frequency and the expression for high frequency tail in SWAN substantially ameliorates the widely known underestimation of the average wave period associated with the WAM cycle 3 formulation, and reduces the amount of calculations needed for other formulations.

Hurricane Gustav (2008) made landfall in southern Louisiana on 1 September 2008 with its eye never closer than 75 km to New Orleans, but its waves and storm surge threatened to flood the city. Easterly tropical-storm-strength winds impacted the region east of the Mississippi River for 12–15 h, allowing for early surge to develop up to 3.5 m there and enter the river and the city’s navigation canals. During landfall, winds shifted from easterly to southerly, resulting in late surge development and propagation over more than 70 km of marshes on the river’s west bank, over more than 40 km of Caernarvon marsh on the east bank, and into Lake Pontchartrain to the north. Wind waves with estimated significant heights of 15 m developed in the deep Gulf of Mexico but were reduced in size once they reached the continental shelf. The barrier islands further dissipated the waves, and locally generated seas existed behind these effective breaking zones.The hardening and innovative deployment of gauges since Hurricane Katrina (2005) resulted in a wealth of measured data for Gustav. A total of 39 wind wave time histories, 362 water level time histories, and 82 high water marks were available to describe the event. Computational models—including a structured-mesh deepwater wave model (WAM) and a nearshore steady-state wave (STWAVE) model, as well as an unstructured-mesh “simulating waves nearshore” (SWAN) wave model and an advanced circulation (ADCIRC) model—resolve the region with unprecedented levels of detail, with an unstructured mesh spacing of 100–200 m in the wave-breaking zones and 20–50 m in the small-scale channels. Data-assimilated winds were applied using NOAA’s Hurricane Research Division Wind Analysis System (H*Wind) and Interactive Objective Kinematic Analysis (IOKA) procedures. Wave and surge computations from these models are validated comprehensively at the measurement locations ranging from the deep Gulf of Mexico and along the coast to the rivers and floodplains of southern Louisiana and are described and quantified within the context of the evolution of the storm.

The unstructured-mesh SWAN spectral wave model and the ADCIRC shallow-water circulation model have been integrated into a tightly-coupled SWAN + ADCIRC model. The model components are applied to an identical, unstructured mesh; share parallel computing infrastructure; and run sequentially in time. Wind speeds, water levels, currents and radiation stress gradients are vertex-based, and therefore can be passed through memory or cache to each model component. Parallel simulations based on domain decomposition utilize identical sub-meshes, and the communication is highly localized. Inter-model communication is intra-core, while intra-model communication is inter-core but is local and efficient because it is solely on adjacent sub-mesh edges. The resulting integrated SWAN + ADCIRC system is highly scalable and allows for localized increases in resolution without the complexity or cost of nested meshes or global interpolation between heterogeneous meshes. Hurricane waves and storm surge are validated for Hurricanes Katrina and Rita, demonstrating the importance of inclusion of the wave-circulation interactions, and efficient performance is demonstrated to 3062 computational cores.

Parallel implementation of an unstructured Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) model with the Wave Model (WAM) cycle 4 formulation was used to evaluate the performance of a third-generation wave model over large spatial scales. Data from a network of National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) buoys and the Wave Current Information System (WAVCIS) stations were used to assess the skill of the input and output of the wave model. The simulation results reveal that the underestimation of energy in the low-frequency band (0.12–0.17 Hz) can be ameliorated if the model is calibrated using site specific in situ measurements instead of the Pierson-Moskowitz spectra. This process led to more than a 25% decrease in the root mean square error between simulated significant wave height and in situ observations. Use of the verified model for the Gulf of Mexico, with bed friction computed from grain-size distribution, as opposed to a default constant bed-friction formulation, showed that the wave height difference can excee...

Cold front passages are largely responsible for accretion along the Chenier Plain, west of the Atchafalaya River as well as many processes impacting the overall health and functioning of the coastal bays and wetlands. The associated water setup and set down during a frontal passage, when wind quickly switches from generally south to north, has significant implications for Louisiana’s bays, coastlines, larval transport, fishery, and oyster resources. The Atchafalaya River discharges up to 30% of the freshwater from the Mississippi River which results in an almost entirely fresh Atchafalaya Bay in spring. A one-month deployment of two tripods equipped with multiple sensors was made in the central Atchafalaya Bay near the Wax Lake Delta for the study of the impact of cold front passages on saltwater flux into the bay between March 20 and April 19, 2006. It was found that two episodes of saltwater intrusion occurred during the 1-month deployment. These events had rapid and transient increases of salinity of approximately 2 PSU. These saltwater intrusion events occurred after a high water slack and lasted for 0.5 to 2 h, respectively. High tide appears to be a necessary condition for the saltwater intrusion. This “high tide”, however, can be a combination of the astronomical tides and wind-induced surge. Strong southerly wind prior to a cold front passage can be an important additional forcing to initiate and/or strengthen saltwater intrusion. It is estimated that roughly 50% of the observed setup is due to local wind stress, 25% due to wave setup, and 25% due to low atmospheric pressure during a cold front passage. The Coriolis-induced setup is found to be negligible in the current study.

Aspects of northern Gulf of Mexico (NGOM) (Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, and Florida panhandle) processes and barrier islands that are pertinent to their geomorphologic response are contrasted with the broader knowledge base summarized by Schwartz (1973) and Leatherman (1979, 1985). Salient findings from studies documenting the short-term (storm-induced; timescales of hours, days, and weeks) and long-term (timescales of years, decades, and centuries) response of barrier island systems in the NGOM are synthesized into a conceptual model. The conceptual model illustrates the hypothetical evolution of three barrier island morphologies as they evolve through a typical Category 1–2 hurricane, including poststorm recovery (days to weeks) and long-term evolution (years to decades). Primary factors in barrier island geomorphologic response to storms, regardless of location, are the elevation of the island relative to storm (surge plus setup) elevation, and duration of the storm. Unique aspects of the ...

The authors analyze 105 yr (1901–2005) of tropical cyclone strikes at 45 coastal locations from Brownsville, Texas, to Eastport, Maine, with the primary objective of examining spatiotemporal patterns of storm activity. Interpretation of the data suggests that geographically, three focal points for activity are evident: south Florida, the Outer Banks of North Carolina, and the north-central Gulf Coast. Temporally, clusters of hyperactivity are evident in south Florida from the 1920s through the 1950s and then again during the most recent years. North Carolina was a region of enhanced activity in the 1950s and again in the 1990s. A more consistent rate of occurrence was found along the north-central Gulf Coast; the last two years, however, were active in this region. Return periods of tropical storm strength systems or greater range from a frequency of once every 2 yr along the Outer Banks of North Carolina, every three years on average in southeast Texas, southeastern Louisiana, and southern Florida, and about once every 10–15 yr in northern New England. Hurricane return periods range from 5 yr in southern Florida to 105+ years at several sheltered portions of the coastline (e.g., near Cedar Key, Florida, Georgia, and the northeastern seaboard), where some locations experienced only one strike, or no strikes through the entire period of record. Severe hurricane (category 3–5) return periods range from once every 15 yr in South Florida to 105+ in New England.

STONE, G.W.; PEPPER, D.A.; XU, J., and ZHANG, X., 2004. Ship Shoal as a prospective borrow site for barrier island restoration, coastal south-central Louisiana, USA: numerical wave modeling and field measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment transport. Journal of Coastal Research, 20(1), 70‐89. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 07490208. Ship Shoal, a transgressive sand body located at the 10 m isobath off south-central Louisiana, is deemed a potential sand source for restoration along the rapidly eroding Isles Dernieres barrier chain and possibly other sites in Louisiana. Through numerical wave modeling we evaluate the potential response of mining Ship Shoal on the wave field. During severe and strong storms, waves break seaward of the western flank of Ship Shoal. Therefore, removal of Ship Shoal (approximately 1.1 billion m3) causes a maximum increase of the significant wave height by 90%‐100% and 40%‐50% over the shoal and directly adjacent to the lee of the complex for two strong storm scenarios. During weak storms and fair weather conditions, waves do not break over Ship Shoal. The degree of increase in significant wave height due to shoal removal is considerably smaller, only 10%‐20% on the west part of the shoal. Within the context of increasing nearshore wave energy levels, removal of the shoal is not significant enough to cause increased erosion along the Isles Dernieres. Wave approach direction exerts significant control on the wave climate leeward of Ship Shoal for stronger storms, but not weak storms or fairweather. Instrumentation deployed at the shoal allowed comparison of measured wave heights with numerically derived wave heights using STWAVE. Correlation coefficients are high in virtually all comparisons indicating the capability of the model to simulate wave behavior satisfactorily at the shoal. Directional waves, currents and sediment transport were measured during winter storms associated with frontal passages using three bottom-mounted arrays deployed on the seaward and landward sides of Ship Shoal (November, 1998‐January, 1999). Episodic increases in wave height, mean and oscillatory current speed, shear velocity, and sediment transport rates, associated with recurrent cold front passages, were measured. Dissipation mechanisms included both breaking and bottom friction due to variable depths across the shoal crest and variable wave amplitudes during storms and fair-weather. Arctic surge fronts were associated with southerly storm waves, and southwesterly to westerly currents and sediment transport. Migrating cyclonic fronts generated northerly swell that transformed into southerly sea, and currents and sediment transport that were southeasterly overall. Waves were 36% higher and 9% longer on the seaward side of the shoal, whereas mean currents were 10% stronger landward, where they were directed onshore, in contrast to the offshore site, where seaward currents predominated. Sediment transport initiated by cold fronts was generally directed southeasterly to southwesterly at the offshore site, and southerly to westerly at the nearshore site. The data suggest that both cold fronts and the shoal, exert significant influences on regional hydrodynamics and sediment transport.

On October 4, 1995, over 2000 km of coast-line stretching from southwest Florida to Louisiana was struck by storm-generated waves as Hurricane Opal moved northward across the Gulf of Mexico toward landfall east of Pensacola Beach, Florida (Figure 1). Approximately 12 hours before landfall on October 4, Opal neared category 5 strength (measured on the Saffir/Simpson scale) with sustained wind speeds of over 65 m s−1. Storm surge levels of ∼5 m were estimated across the Northwest Florida shelf by the National Hurricane Center (NHC), resulting in the overwash of most of Santa Rosa Island, the most extensively affected section of coast in the Gulf.

This study investigates the application of the wave model (WAM) to simulate the generation and propagation of typhoon waves in Korean seas. The model solves the energy balance equation for wave growth based on wind energy input, and simulates spatial and time evolution of wave spectra. Although WAM has been extensively validated and used in various global and regional wave forecasts, its application to the simulation of typhoon waves has not been investigated thoroughly. Crucial to the application of WAM in typhoon wave modeling is the specification of accurate wind input data and adequate resolution of the wind structure. This study compares and analyzes two different wind fields for the same event, viz., simulated wind field from a storm model and blended global QSCAT/NCEP winds. The simulation experiment was run for 4 days as Typhoon Olga (1999) approached the west coast of Korea. The results are compared with shallow water buoy observations as the typhoon was approaching landfall. The simulat...

Just over a year after the landfall of Hurricane Ivan, scientists have now had an opportunity to evaluate a variety of oceanographic and geologic responses to this storm. Hurricanes Ivan, Katrina,and Rita are among the most powerful hurricanes recently to enter the Gulf of Mexico. Although it weakened from a very powerful Category 5 hurricane to a Category 3 before making landfall along the Alabama coast, Hurricane Ivan devastated the coasts of northwestern Florida and Alabama on 16 September 2004. This article summarizes what researchers have learned about Hurricane Ivan as it moved into the Gulf and made landfall along the northeastern Gulf of Mexico coast. The article focuses on storm meteorology, sea state,shelf circulation, and sediment transport on the shelf and along the coast.

A pilot study was recently begun dealing with the impacts and post-storm adjustment of barrier islands to severe storms along the northern Gulf of Mexico. The study, funded by the National Science Foundation, may lead to a more comprehensive understanding of coastal morphodynamics and longer term evolution of the coast in that area. Study of the recent impacts and post-storm adjustment of the area to Hurricane Georges is playing a very important role in enhancing our comprehension of the significance of these high-energy events in coastal dynamics. A few hours before dawn on September 28, 1998, Hurricane Georges made landfall near Biloxi along the Mississippi Gulf Coast (Figure 1) as a strong Category 2 system (as defined by the Saffir/Simpson scale: Simpson, 1974). Waves off the Mississippi/Louisiana coast exceeded 10 m in height and storm surge varied between 2–3 m. The entire stretch of coast from the modern Mississippi delta to the Florida Panhandle, a distance in excess of 200 km, was severely impacted by the hurricane through overwash and breaching of the barrier islands, and erosion of the distal ends of the sub-deltas and major distributaries comprising the Birdsfoot delta in Louisiana. Near the landfall zone, the Category 2 storm impacted the coastline with estimated sustained winds of over 45 ms−1, and rainfall between 300 and 400 mm in coastal Mississippi. Georges was the sixth storm to impact this stretch of coast since 1995, the most severe being Hurricane Opal, at its strongest a powerful Category 4 system that made landfall east of Pensacola Beach, Florida, as a marginal Category 3 hurricane [see Eos article by Stone et al., 1996; Lawrence et al., 1998]. The cumulative impact of storms during this period of intense hurricane activity has altered significantly the morphology of the Northwest Florida coast. A review of historical photographs dating back to the early 1900's suggests that the entire coast is now in quite probably the most degraded morphological condition of the 20th century.