Search

Digital stress is a newly identified cosmetic stress that is mainly characterized by blue light exposure. The effects of this stress have become increasingly important with the emergence of personal digital devices, and its deleterious effects on the body are now well-known. Blue light has been observed to cause perturbation of the natural melatonin cycle and skin damage similar to that from UVA exposure, thus leading to premature aging. “A melatonin-like ingredient” was discovered in the extract of Gardenia jasminoides, which acts as a filter against blue light and as a melatonin-like ingredient to prevent and stop premature aging. The extract showed significant protective effects on the mitochondrial network of primary fibroblasts, a significant decrease of −86% in oxidized proteins on skin explants, and preservation of the natural melatonin cycle in the co-cultures of sensory neurons and keratinocytes. Upon analysis using in silico methods, only the crocetin form, released through skin microbiota activation, was found to act as a melatonin-like molecule by interacting with the MT1-receptor, thus confirming its melatonin-like properties. Finally, clinical studies revealed a significant decrease in wrinkle number of −21% in comparison to the placebo. The extract showed strong protection against blue light damage and the prevention of premature aging through its melatonin-like properties.

During aging, human skin is facing hyperpigmentation disorders: senile lentigo (chronobiologic aging) leads to loss of melanogenesis' control while solar lentigo (UV exposure) promotes an increase of oxidized proteins, melanogenesis, and lipofuscin.Stromal-cell-derived-factor-1 (SDF-1) was identified as key regulator of hyperpigmentation and its expression is reduced in senescent fibroblasts, highlighting this protein as new target for skin hyperpigmentation.We developed two skin explant models mimicking of senile and solar lentigo, based on HSDF-1 expression decreased in senile lentigo model, associated with hyperpigmentation. HEX application restored SDF-1 expression, leading to skin pigmentation decrease. For solar lentigo, we showed an impact of UVs on SDF-1 expression linked to hyperpigmentation, while the application of HEX restored SDF-1 expression and reduced skin pigmentation. On same model, HEX reduced oxidized proteins quantity and lipofuscin which increased after UV exposure. Clinically, HEX reduced dark spot pigmentation on Caucasian volunteers' hands and on Asian and African volunteers' face after 28 days.We have developed ex vivo models mimetic of senile and solar lentigo and showed for a very first time that SDF-1 can be also a key regulator for UV-induced hyperpigmentation.Our ex vivo and clinical studies highlighted the power of HEX with strong reduction of dark spots regardless of volunteers' ethnicities.

(1) Background: Preclinical studies report that the ethanolic fraction from

Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin.In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers.We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue.In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.Les lipides de la peau sont essentiels dans chaque compartiment de la peau où ils jouent un rôle clé dans diverses fonctions biologiques. Il est intéressant de noter que leur rôle est central dans le maintien de l'hydratation, liée à la fonction de barrière cutanée, mais aussi dans la structure même de la peau, par le biais du tissu adipeux. Il est bien décrit aujourd'hui que les lipides de la peau sont affectés par le vieillissement, ce qui entraîne un relâchement de la peau, des rides et une sécheresse. Ainsi, le développement d'actifs cosmétiques capables de réactiver les lipides de la peau serait une stratégie efficace de lutte contre le vieillissement. En raison de l'engagement fort de nos scientifiques à innover de manière responsable et à créer de la valeur, ils ont conçus un ingrédient actif à forte valeur ajoutée, appelé ici extrait de Vétiver, en utilisant une approche révolutionnaire de « up-cycling ». Nous avons démontré que cet extrait unique était capable de réactiver globalement la production de lipides de la peau, apportant une hydratation de la peau et un effet repulpant pour les peaux matures. MÉTHODES: Afin de démontrer le renouvellement global des lipides, nous avons évalué la synthèse des lipides sur les cellules cutanées qui produisent des lipides tels que les kératinocytes, les sébocytes et les adipocytes, puis sur un modèle d’Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et les explants de peau. Nous avons évalué l'expression des protéines impliquées dans le transport des céramides et la kératinisation de la barrière cutanée. Nous avons ensuite évalué l'hydratation et les paramètres sébacés sur un panel de volontaires matures. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons tout d'abord démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver induit la production de sébum à partir de lignées cellulaires de sébocytes humains mais améliore également sa qualité comme l'indique la production de lipides antimicrobiens spécifiques. Ensuite, nous avons démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver était capable de restaurer la barrière cutanée grâce à l'augmentation de la néosynthèse lipidique sur un modèle d’Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et sur des explants de peau. Nous avons également démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver stimulait le transport des lipides et la kératinisation de l'épiderme. Enfin, l'extrait de Vétiver a montré un effet significatif sur l'adipogenèse et la maturation des adipocytes dans des modèles in vitro et ex vivo. Nous avons confirmé à l’échelle clinique toutes ces activités en montrant que l'extrait de Vétiver améliorait la production de sébum et apportait une hydratation grâce à une augmentation de la teneur en lipides ainsi qu’une modification de leur conformation. L'extrait de Vétiver a induit une amélioration de la fatigue cutanée et un effet repulpant en agissant en profondeur sur le tissu adipeux.En conclusion, nous avons développé un ingrédient actif capable d'apporter un effet anti-âge aux peaux matures par une augmentation globale des lipides de la peau.

Dark spots, brown spots, or hyperpigmented spots (HPS) are oval or irregular brown areas of skin. Their emergence is associated with dysregulation of the immune system, and may also be caused by a deficiency in stromal cell-derived factor-1, leading to perturbed melanogenesis and accumulation of melanosomes within neighboring keratinocytes. The skin microbiota (living microorganisms present on the surface of the skin) is known to play essential roles in maintaining skin homeostasis and in regulating the immune system. Here, we investigated whether the microbiota could play a role in the emergence of HPS.The clinical study involved 38 European women, selected from among 74 volunteers. Participants were divided into two groups depending on the spot areas measured on their faces. The study was designed to avoid conflicting factors: both groups presented similar skin pH, hydration, transepidermal water loss, and sebum levels. The two cohorts were also age-matched, with a mean of 29-years-old for both.Alpha-diversity of the microbiota was similar for the two groups. On skins with more HPS, seven bacterial genera were identified in significantly higher proportions and included opportunistic pathogens and inflammatory bacteria. Six bacterial genera, including bacteria showing antioxidant and anti-UV properties, were identified in significantly higher proportions on less spotted skins. Cross-domain association networks revealed distinct co-occurrences of genera between the two groups, suggesting nonidentical community structures and exchanges, depending on the HPS status.Our results reveal specific microbiota composition and networks on skins based on HPS status. Changes could alter communication with the immune system, leading to the emergence of dark spots. As an essential part of the overall skin ecosystem, and through its interaction with the skin matrix, the skin microbiota and its maintenance could be considered a new target for skincare applications.

Background Intrinsic aging promotes wrinkles formation by an imbalance between matrix synthesis/degradation in favor of degradation. This is accelerated by the exposome leading to overproduction of protease and fewer remodeling. Objective Protecting the integrity of extracellular matrix appears as the most efficient anti-aging solution. We developed a grafted HA specifically designed to get anti-aging property due to a specific molecular weight and acetylation degree. Methods A transcriptomic analysis was performed on fibroblasts, followed by a measurement of MMP secretion and subsequent effect on collagen degradation. MMP expression in skin explants concerned by chronobiological and extrinsic aging was analyzed by immunostaining. A clinical study was conducted on volunteers presenting wrinkles on face to evaluate flash reduction of wrinkles after 6 h of application by profilometry and anti-aging efficacy after 2 months by VISIA® CR2.3. Results Transcriptomic analysis evidenced an inhibition of MMP gene expression with acetylated HA, confirmed by an inhibition of MMPs release by fibroblasts, and a protection of type I collagen against degradation. We confirmed the reduction of MMPs in mature skin and in skin explants exposed to UV and urban dust. We demonstrated during clinical studies the flash reduction effect of acetylated HA on crow's feet wrinkles and a filling of nasogenian areas 6 h after application, and a wrinkles number reduction on nasogenian area up to 2 months of application. Conclusion We developed a new grafted HA owing protective properties against ECM degradation induced by chronobiological and extrinsic aging, leading to a significant and efficient anti-wrinkles effect.

Background Several studies evidenced significant increase of cortisol is the consequence of UV or emotional stress and leads to various deleterious effects in the skin. Aim The well-aging, a new concept of lifestyle, procures an alternative to the anti-aging strategy. We demonstrated that Tephrosia purpurea extract is able to stimulate well-being hormones while reducing cortisol release. Furthermore, we hypothesized that the extract could positively influence the global skin homeostasis. Method We evaluated the impact of the extract on cortisol, β-endorphin, and dopamine, released by normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). A gene expression study was realized on NHEKs and NHDFs. The protein over-expression of HMOX1 and NQO1 was evidenced at cellular and tissue level. Finally, we conducted a clinical study on 21 women living in a polluted environment in order to observe the impact of the active on global skin improvement. Results The extract is able to reduce significantly the cortisol release while inducing the production of β-endorphin and dopamine. The gene expression study revealed that Tephrosia purpurea extract up-regulated the genes involved in antioxidant response and skin renewal. Moreover, the induction of HMOX and NQO1 expression was confirmed on NHDFs, NHEKs and in RHE. We clinically demonstrated that the extract improved significantly the skin by reducing dark circles, represented by an improvement of L*, a*, and ITA parameters. Conclusion Tephrosia purpurea extract has beneficial effects on skin homeostasis through control of the well-being state and antioxidant defenses leading to an improvement of dark circles, a clinical features particularly impacted by emotional and environmental stress.

Background Healthy skin is a delicate balance between skin renewal and microbiota homeostasis, and its imbalance promotes premature aging and dermatological disorders. Skin stem cells are key actors in this process but their sensitivity to aging and external stressors such as UV reduces the skin renewal power. The skin microbiota has been recently described as active in the healthy skin, and its imbalance could trigger some disorders. Aims We hypothesized that reactivation of stem cells and maintenance of microbiota could be a disruptive strategy for younger and healthier skin. We thus developed a new plant extract that restores the entire skin renewal process by sequential activation from stem cells stimulation to microbiota protection. Methods We studied stem cells comportment in the presence of Orobanche rapum extract by survivin immunocytochemistry and caspases 3 and 9 dosages. We also analyzed epidermal differentiation markers by immunohistochemistry and lipids organization by GC/MS At the clinical level, we investigated the impact of O. rapum extract on microbiota and on skin aspect. Results We demonstrated an active protection of skin stem cells through the maintenance of their clone-forming capacity and resistance to UV through the overexpression of survivin coupled to caspases inhibition. Furthermore, we showed the restoration of epidermal differentiation markers and ceramide biosynthesis favorable to orthorhombic organization. Clinical studies, including microbiota analysis, showed an active skin surface renewal coupled with microbiota protection. Conclusion We evidenced that our active ingredient is able to stimulate skin rejuvenation while protecting the cutaneous microbiota, creating healthier skin and thereby beauty.

Objective In hair care cosmetic products’ evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. It presents a high molecular specificity to detect chemical interactions between molecules and can provide molecular information at various depths at the cortex and cuticle levels. Methods To evaluate the potential of confocal Raman spectroscopy in testing the efficiency of cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure, we undertook a pilot study on the effectiveness of a smoothing shampoo on natural human hair, by analysing α‐helix and β‐sheet spectral markers in the Amide I band and spectral markers specific to the cystin sulfur content. Results We confirmed that an active proved to be effective on a gold standard decreases α‐helix keratin conformation and promotes β‐sheet keratin conformation in the hair fibres. We also showed that treatment with the effective active decreases the intensity of covalent disulfide (S–S at 510 cm‐1) cross‐linking bands of cysteine. These data confirm that the effective active also acts on the tertiary structure of keratin. Conclusion From these experiments, we concluded that the effective active has a smoothing effect on the human hair fibres by acting on α‐helix and β‐sheet keratin conformation and on the tertiary structure of keratin. Based on these results, confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres. Moreover, this analytical technique has the advantage of being non‐destructive and label free; in addition, it does not require sample extraction or purification and it can be applied routinely in cosmetic laboratories., Confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered as a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres.

International audience; The aim of the present study was to investigate the neuro-soothing activity of a water-soluble hydrolysate obtained from the red microalgae Rhodosorus marinus Geitler (Stylonemataceae). Transcriptomic analysis performed on ≈100 genes related to skin biological functions firstly revealed that the crude Rhodosorus marinus extract was able to significantly negatively modulate specific genes involved in pro-inflammation (interleukin 1α encoding gene, IL1A) and pain detection related to tissue inflammation (nerve growth factor NGF and its receptor NGFR). An in vitro model of normal human keratinocytes was then used to evaluate the ability of the Rhodosorus marinus extract to control the release of neuro-inflammation mediators under phorbol myristate acetate (PMA)-induced inflammatory conditions. The extract incorporated at 1% and 3% significantly inhibited the release of IL-1α and NGF secretion. These results were confirmed in a co-culture system of reconstructed human epithelium and normal human epidermal keratinocytes on which a cream formulated with the Rhodosorus marinus extract at 1% and 3% was topically applied after systemic induction of neuro-inflammation. Finally, an in vitro model of normal human astrocytes was developed for the evaluation of transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) receptor modulation, mimicking pain sensing related to neuro-inflammation as observed in sensitive skins. Treatment with the Rhodosorus marinus extract at 1% and 3% significantly decreased PMA-mediated TRPV1 over-expression. In parallel with these biological experiments, the crude Rhodosorus marinus extract was fractionated by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC) and chemically profiled by a recently developed 13C NMR-based dereplication method. The CPC-generated fractions as well as pure metabolites were tested again in vitro in an attempt to identify the biologically active constituents involved in the neuro-soothing activity of the Rhodosorus marinus extract. Two active molecules, namely, γ-aminobutyric acid (GABA) and its structural derivative GABA-alanine, demonstrated a strong capacity to positively regulate skin sensitization mechanisms related to the TRPV1 receptors under PMA-induced inflammatory conditions, therefore providing interesting perspectives for the treatment of sensitive skins, atopia, dermatitis, or psoriasis.

International audience; A new in silico method is introduced for the dereplication of natural metabolite mixtures based on HMBC and HSQC spectra that inform about short-range and long-range H–C correlations occurring in the carbon skeleton of individual chemical entities. Starting from the HMBC spectrum of a metabolite mixture, an algorithm was developed in order to recover individualized HMBC footprints of the mixture constituents. The collected H–C correlations are represented by a network of NMR peaks connected to each other when sharing either a 1H or 13C chemical shift value. The network obtained is then divided into clusters using a community detection algorithm, and finally each cluster is tentatively assigned to a molecular structure by means of a NMR chemical shift database containing the theoretical HMBC and HSQC correlation data of a range of natural metabolites. The proof of principle of this method is demonstrated on a model mixture of 3 known natural compounds and then on a real-life bark extract obtained from the common spruce (Picea abies L.).

International audience; A computer-aided, 13C NMR-based dereplication method is presented for the chemical profiling of natural extracts without any fractionation. An algorithm was developed in order to compare the 13C NMR chemical shifts obtained from a single routine spectrum with a set of predicted NMR data stored in a natural metabolite database. The algorithm evaluates the quality of the matching between experimental and predicted data by calculating a score function and returns the list of metabolites that are most likely to be present in the studied extract. The proof of principle of the method is demonstrated on a crude alkaloid extract obtained from the leaves of Peumus boldus, resulting in the identification of eight alkaloids, including isocorydine, rogersine, boldine, reticuline, coclaurine, laurotetanine, N-methylcoclaurine, and norisocorydine, as well as three monoterpenes, namely, p-cymene, eucalyptol, and α-terpinene. The results were compared to those obtained with other methods, either involving a fractionation step before the chemical profiling process or using mass spectrometry detection in the infusion mode or coupled to gas chromatography.

International audience; Natural product chemistry began in Reims, France, in a pharmacognosy research laboratory whose main emphasis was the isolation and identification of bioactive molecules, following the guidelines of chemotaxonomy. The structure elucidation of new compounds of steadily increasing complexity favored the emergence of methodological work in nuclear magnetic resonance. As a result, our group was the first to report the use of proton‐detected heteronuclear chemical shift correlation spectra for the computer‐assisted structure elucidation of small organic molecules driven by atom proximity relationships and without relying on databases. The early detection of known compounds appeared as a necessity in order to deal more efficiently with complex plant extracts. This goal was reached by an original combination of mixture fractionation by centrifugal partition chromatography, analysis by 13C NMR, digital data reduction and alignment, hierarchical data clustering, and computer database search.

International audience; Wood residues produced from forestry activities represent an interesting source of biologically active, high value-added secondary metabolites. In this study, 30 extracts from 10 barks of deciduous and coniferous tree species were investigated for their potential dermo-cosmetic use. The extracts were obtained from Fagus sylvatica, Quercus robur, Alnus glutinosa, Prunus avium, Acer pseudoplatanus, Fraxinus excelsior, Populus robusta, Larix decidua, Picea abies, and Populus tremula after three successive solid/liquid extractions of the barks with n-heptane, methanol, and methanol/water. All extracts were evaluated for their radical scavenging capacity, for their elastase, collagenase, and tyrosinase inhibitory activities, as well as for their antibacterial activity against gram-positive Staphylococcus aureus. In parallel, the global metabolite profiles of all extracts were established by 1D and 2D NMR and related to their biological activity. The results showed that the methanol extracts of Q. robur, A. glutinosa, L. decidua, and P. abies barks exhibit particularly high activities on most bioassays, suggesting their promising use as active ingredients in the dermo-cosmetic industry.

Microbial glycolipids produced from renewable sources are of considerable interest in light of their promising biological activities and surfactant characteristics when compared to petroleum derived surfactants. Intense research efforts are currently being made to reduce their production costs and optimize recovery as selected mixtures through downstream processes. Due to the high complexity of natural glycolipid mixtures, efficient purification techniques are also required to examine the biological mechanisms of individual species towards human systems for their application in health-related areas. This review deals with recent advances in the development of glycolipid extraction, fractionation and purification methods, with a particular focus on solid support-free liquid-liquid separation techniques including centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC) and counter-current chromatography (CCC). These techniques offer promising perspectives for the preparative or large-scale separation of glycolipids from complex crude extracts, mainly because of their flexibility in solvent system selection and applicability to a diversity of structures of any polarity.