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Since only few reported studies propose anti-vascular endothelial growth factor (anti-VEGF) delivery through electrospun scaffolds, this study greatly contributes to the potential prevention of patient’s vision loss, as it explores electrospun polycaprolactone (PCL) coated with anti-VEGF for the blockage of abnormal cornea vascularization. In terms of physicochemical properties, the biological component increased the PCL scaffold fiber diameter (by ~24%) and pore area (by ~82%), while ut slightly reduced its total porosity as the anti-VEGF solution filled the voids of the microfibrous structure. The addition of the anti-VEGF increased the scaffold stiffness almost three-fold at both strains of 5 and 10%, as well as its biodegradation rate (~36% after 60 days) with a sustained release profile after Day 4 of phosphate buffered saline incubation. In terms of scaffold application function, the PCL/Anti-VEGF scaffold proved to be more favorable for the adhesion of cultured limbal stem cells (LSCs) ; this was confirmed by the SEM images, where the cells showed flat and elongated conformations. Further support of the LSC growth and proliferation was con-firmed by the identified p63 and CK3 markers after cell staining. These results demonstrate the advantageous effect of the surface-adsorbed anti-VEGF to stop vision loss and help damaged corneal tissue repair.

Plant proteins are receiving a lot of attention due to their abundance in nature, customizable properties, biodegradability, biocompatibility, and bioactivity. As a result of global sustainability concerns, the availability of novel plant protein sources is rapidly growing, while the extensively studied ones are derived from byproducts of major agro-industrial crops. Owing to their beneficial properties, a significant effort is being made to investigate plant proteins’ application in biomedicine, such as making fibrous materials for wound healing, controlled drug release, and tissue regeneration. Electrospinning technology is a versatile platform for creating nanofibrous materials fabricated from biopolymers that can be modified and functionalized for various purposes. This review focuses on recent advancements and promising directions for further research of an electrospun plant protein-based system. The article highlights examples of zein, soy, and wheat proteins to illustrate their electrospinning feasibility and biomedical potential. Similar assessments with proteins from less-represented plant sources, such as canola, pea, taro, and amaranth, are also described.

Tight elastic clothing items are frequent in general but also play an important role in sports equipment and medical applications. A proper choice of geometry and mechanical properties is essential for good balance between function and comfort. In an appropriate engineering analysis the deformational properties of both body tissue and elastic sock need to be accounted for. The limb is considered here as a composite cylinder consisting of concentric thick walled tube with rigid core. It is loaded by the pressure resulting from the tightly applied cylindrical membrane representing sock or compressive bandage. Linear elastic deformation is considered in all materials involved. The results are given in the form of diagrams of stress distribution in the cylinder. Examples indicate the influence of geometry and material properties to the stress state in the tissue.

Melt electrospinning and its application in tissue engineering research is part of the Croatian Science Foundation project concerning the development of electrospun scaffolds suitable for skin and ocular cells culture. The melt electrospinning process is free of organic solvents thus avoiding toxicity problems when developing medical products. Another important aspect is certainly the micro fibrous structure that is produced by melt electrospinning, thus very much favourable for the cells in-depth penetration in the scaffolds. The “Spraybase” melt electrospinning device used in this project combines electrospinning and 3D printing principles for the production of custom tailored scaffolds with target defined topography. The “Spraybase” device involves several steps in the production of the melt electrospun scaffolds: 1) 3D design and model generation of the scaffolds geometry, 2) polymer selection (in this project polycaprolactone or polylactid), 3) temperature, electrical voltage, pressure and head to collector distance set up and 4) electrospinning. The process involves the formation of the melt jet though polymer melting, as the polymer is pushed by the pressure in the head, the jet starts to form at the tip of the nozzle and stretches by the electrical voltage. The geometry of the scaffold is formed by the movement of the collector in the X and Y axis according to the 3D model. The thickness of the scaffold results from the head movement in the Z direction. The micro fibers are positioned in compliance with the designed patterns.

The ERASMUS Programme (EuRopean Community Action Scheme for the Mobility of University Students) is a European Union (EU) student exchange programme established in 1987. International Relations Office at University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology (IRO TTF) was founded in 2007. The first Head, and ERASMUS coordinator was professor Ana Marija Grancarić (2007-2013). In 2009, when Croatia approached EU integration, the University of Zagreb signed ERASMUS, and made the Higher Education (HE) student exchange possible. By signing a bilateral agreement with L'Ecole Nationales Superiure des Artes et Industries Textiles (ENSAIT), Roubaix, France, TTF was one of the first faculties in Croatia with ERASMUS HE student exchange. In the academic year of 2009/2010 TTF had three incoming students for study (SMS) ; in 2011/2012 nine SMS ; in 2012/13 six SMS and 1 student mobility for traineeship (SMT), and in 2013/14 eight SMS and 3 SMTs, all from ENSAIT. In 2013/14 three TTF students were at ENSAIT as SMS. With the academic year 2013/14 the old ERASMUS Programme ended, and a new ERASMUS+ Programme that combines all EU's current schemes for education, training, youth and sport, started, and will end in 2020/2021. The next Head of TTF IRO and ERASMUS+ coordinator became assist. prof. Anita Tarbuk (2013-2017). The current TTF ERASMUS+ coordinator is Emilija Zdraveva, PhD. Within the ERASMUS+ Programme TTF signed 31 bilateral agreements, among which were ones with four French universities: from 2014/15 ENSAIT, Roubaix ; and Universite de Haute Alsace, Ecole Nationale Supérieure d'Ingénieurs Sud Alsace (ENSISA), Mulhouse ; from 2015/16 Institut Textile et Chimique de Lyon (ITECH), Lyon ; and from 2017/18 L’Ecole Nationale Supérieure de Chimie de Lille (ENSCL), Lille. Whithin this E+ SMS in 2014/15 five ENSAIT students were at TTF, and 3 TTF students were in Roubaix. One TTF student as E+ SMT did internship in Elie Saab company, Paris, France. Whithin this E+ SMS in 2015/16 six ENSAIT students were at TTF, and 3 TTF students were in Roubaix. In 2016/17 one TTF student as E+ SMT did internship in Decathlon AddLab, Lille, France ; and 2 students from ITECH, Lyon were at TTF as E+ SMS. The staff E+ mobility from ITECH, Lyon was achieved in this year as well. In 2017/18 two TTF students were at ENSAIT as E+ SMS, one was at ITECH, Lyon as E+ SMT, and one E+ SMS from ENSAIT, and one E+ SMT from ENSCL, Lille were at TTF. A. Tarbuk was at ITECH as E+ TM. Currently, 2 E+ SMS students from ITECH, one from ENSCL and one from ENSISA are at TTF, and in the next semester of 2018/2019, 4 students will come from ENSAIT.

Tensile response of a given material is recorded by the standard test in which the stress caused by the mechanical loading is evenly distributed in the test specimen. Textile materials are flexible and unable to withstand any in-plane compression. Compressive cut off can be viewed as the first source of the nonlinearity in textile deformation. This paper brings the study in which these nonlinear phenomena are illustrated on the case of the out-of-centre tensile load in the modified standard tension test, where the force is applied to the specimen via the rigid crossbar. If the negative stress of bending part surpasses the average tensile stress, compressive cut off takes place and the static conditions must be satisfied in the new situation of a reduced specimen.

This paper focuses on the fabrication and characterization of electrospun thermoregulating fabrics incorporating phase change materials (PCM). The influence of the PCM content on the electrospun fibers morphology, thermal stability, phase change sustainability and heat storing was examined. The fibers showed cylindrical shapes and rough surfaces. The 14 % surfactant resulted in beads disappearance for both 30 and 50 wt% PCM. The PCM amount did not affected too much materials’ temperature weight loss. Higher encapsulation efficiency above 30 % was calculated for the PCM 50 wt%. These fabrics are good candidates for protective clothing as can regulate the temperature near the human skin and are lightweight, thus improving body comfort.

Different methods were used to investigate water vapour resistance and water vapour permeability on several bovine leathers to be used for making professional footwear. The Permetest instrument determined water vapour resistance while water vapour permeability was determined by a standard method, according to HRN EN ISO 20344:2012. Samples of box calf leather and nappa leather, whose raw material is equal, were technologically processed in a similar manner (hydrophobisized, combination tanned and polyurethane finish of the face of the leather) have the highest water vapour resistance. In the case of identical processing a sample of less thick suede has lower water vapour resistance in relation to thicker suede. Water vapour permeability is largely dependent on the processing of the face of the leather. Suede samples have high values of water vapour permeability in comparison to samples of box calf and nappa leather, independent on thickness and processing which is associated with the permeable structure of their buffed face.

Aim was to investigate the impact of synthetic electrospun polyurethane and polycaprolactone nanoscaffolds, before and after hydrolytic surface modification, on viability and differentiation of cultured human eye epithelial cells, in comparison with natural scaffolds: fibrin and human amniotic membrane. Human placenta was taken at elective caesarean delivery. Fibrin scaffolds were prepared from commercial fibrin glue kits. Nanoscaffolds were fabricated by electrospinning. Limbal cells were isolated from surpluses of human cadaveric cornea and seeded on feeder 3T3 cells. The scaffolds used for viability testing and immunofluorescence analysis were: amniotic membrane, fibrin, polyurethane (PU) and polycaprolactone (PCL) nanoscaffolds, with or without prior NaOH treatment. SEM photographs of all tested scaffolds showed good colony spreading of seeded limbal cells. In regard to viability performance there was statistically significant difference between cells with highest viability cultured on tissue culture plastic and cells cultured on all other scaffolds. On the other hand, electrospun PU, PCL and electrospun PCL treated with NaOH had more than 80% of limbal cells positive for stem cell marker p63 compared to only 27%of p63 positive cells on fibrin. Natural scaffolds, fibrin and amniotic membrane, showed better cell viability compared to electrospun scaffolds. On contrary, high percentages of p63 positive cells on these scaffolds still makes them good candidates as efficient delivery systems for therapeutic purposes.

Priručnik, namijenjen mentorima, voditeljima i koordinatorima stručne prakse sveučilišnih studija Sveučilišta u Zagrebu Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta, je predviđen projektom UP.03.1.1.04.0024 Razvoj i provedba stručne prakse na Tekstilno- tehnološkom fakultetu – RAST, voditelja izv. prof. dr. sc. Gorana Čubrića, koji je financiran bespovratnim sredstvima Europske unije ESF (85 %) i sredstvima Državnog proračuna MZO (15 %). Pripremili su ga nastavnici Sveučilišta u Zagrebu Tekstilno- tehnološkog fakulteta uz suradnju triju članova partnera Projekta: Sveučilišta u Zagrebu Fakulteta organizacije i informatike iz Varaždina te Hrvatske gospodarske komore iz Zagreba, svi članovi Radne skupine za razvoj stručne prakse u okviru elementa projekta 1: Unaprjeđenje postojećih i razvoj novih modela stručne prakse za postojeće preddiplomske i diplomske studije uz Voditelja Projekta. Sadržajno je vezan uz Pravilnik o stručnoj praksi studenata preddiplomskih i diplomskih sveučilišnih studija Sveučilišta u Zagrebu Tekstilno- tehnološkog fakulteta iz 2021. godine. U njemu je dan detaljni opis stručne prakse studenata preddiplomskih i diplomskih sveučilišnih studija Tekstilna tehnologija i inženjerstvo te Tekstilni i modni dizajn, koja se provodi kroz nove izborne predmete Stručna praksa P- TTI, Stručna praksa P- TMD, Stručna praksa D-TTI i Stručna praksa D-TMD. Opisan je Centar za karijere i stručnu praksu zadužen za operativnu provedbu stručne prakse te zadaće operativnog tijela za planiranje, organizaciju, izvedbu stručne prakse i nadzor nad njezinom provedbom koje čine Koordinator stručne prakse, Voditelj stručne prakse, Mentor i Odgovorna osoba iz pravne osobe gdje student obavlja stručnu praksu te Uprava Fakulteta. U Priručniku su prikazani kreirani modeli procesa u provedbi stručne prakse studenata te navedeni primjenjivi i referentni dokumenti. Priručnik je strukturiran kroz sljedeća poglavlja: Informacije o stručnoj praksi, Operativna provedba stručne prakse studenata, Modeli procesa u provedbi stručne prakse studenata, Dokumenti, Prilozi. U poglavlju Prilozi dan je prikaz Uputnice za stručnu praksu studenata, Evaluacijskog obrasca za ocjenu rada studenta, Evaluacijskog obrasca o obavljenoj stručnoj praksi i Dnevnika stručne prakse.

The subject of research is the issue of clothing size systems defined by different marking systems and linear grading, where the patterns are not sufficiently adapted to different body shapes. The shortcomings of the existing medical unifoms are examined as well as the requirements of individuals, based on a survey among respondents in the health area, in order to obtain guidelines for the design and computer pattern making of functional medical uniforms to adapt to their needs and function with a goal to facilitate their work. Based on all the established results, the design of the new uniforms is designed for different shapes and types of female and male body, with the aim of achieving the best fit of the model in aesthetic and functional sense. The basic patterns necessary for modeling of female and male uniforms were made in the CAD system for computer pattern making and design of clothes. The complete design of computer 3D prototypes of uniforms was performed for different types of male and female body. Also, the results of research present patients evaluation of existing uniforms considering the colors of the uniforms and the appearance of the staff.

The paper presents research on female body anthropometric characteristics, with the purpose of grouping and classifying different body shapes types. Classification is based on the numerical ratio of variables that describe the shape of lateral body curve in longitudinal frontal plane section. The existing methods for classifying the woman's body shape are mainly based on the ratio of the three basic circumference measures, whereby the overall circumference measures do not give a clear picture of the observed body cross section shape, and thus the shape cannot be clearly described. Experimental part of the paper includes defining the variables, i.e. shape indicators that are describing lateral body curve for shape classification and are calculated from a set of body measures determined using a 3D body scanner, which ensures the reliability and objectivity of the method. The study was conducted on a female population sample, whereby statistical data processing showed identification of the three female body shape groups, that significantly differ in defined shape indicators. Based on the analysis of the particular indicators influence on a belonging to a certain body type, a method for the classification of female body shapes was developed.

Poly(ethylene-terephthalate) (PET) fabric has small absorption due to high fibre crystallinity. The alkali hydrolysis and aminolysis, conventional surface modifications, are not eco- friendly. Therefore, the alternative methods have been researched, and the application of enzymes is one of them. In this paper the lipase surface modification of light PET satin woven fabric was performed and compared to alkali hydrolysed one. The degree of crystallinity was calculated from the absorption on 973 cm-1 and 1018 cm-1 measured on FTIR-ATR, Spectrum 100, PerkinElmer. The liquid moisture management properties: Wetting time, Absorption Rate, Maximum Wetted Radius, Spreading Speed, Accumulative One-way Transport Capability, and Overall (liquid) Moisture Management Capability were determined according to AATCC TM 195-2017 Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics on Moisture Management Tester (MMT M290 by SDL Atlas). It has been showed that lipase treatment lowers the PET crystallinity from 29.65 to 24.73%, similar as alkali hydrolysis 24.90%. The MMT results showed better absorption, moisture management, indicating better comfort of such treated fabrics

In this paper, the possibility of using wastes and readily renewable vegetable raw materials as a source of natural dyes for silk is examined. The following plants were used: camomile flowers, onion skins, walnut and ash bark. Considering they are dyes from the group of mordant dyes, potassium aluminium sulphate dodecahydrate, copper(II) sulphate pentahydrate, iron(II) sulphate heptahydrate are used as mordant. Silk was chosen as the material because of the tradition in Croatia and the attempt to revitalize cultivation. Results of this research are presented through the analysis of CIELAB colour values based on spectrophotometric measurement. The final colour map was used to colouring silk scarves inspired by circles in grain. Bio-wastes have the attention of researchers as a source of natural textile dyes due to their ecological background, abundance and availability at minimal costs.

Leather is unique distinctive product and a luxurious choice to refine upholstery covering by centuries. Today it remains a noble material with natural-tough-chique look and feel, valorized by customers in search of exclusivity. As a premium material, leather is precious and we need to optimize its use to answer growing customer needs. Manufacturers face strong pressure on price due to increasing competition, especially online. Leather cutting is still heavily manual and although demand remains stable, the cost of labor is increasing due to a decrease in the number of skilled workers, and that is a challenge in an area where skills are a key element in output quality and ultimately, in the company’s performance. This paper presents Lectra solution for leather furniture cutting room fully prepared for industry 4.0.

3D registration is a process of aligning multiple three dimensional (3D) data structures (such as point clouds or meshes) and merging them into one consistent and seamless 3D data structure. With the scope of 3D reconstruction, 3D human body scans from multiple views need to be registered into a single point cloud to create a seamless 3D representation. In this work, we provide an overview of rigid 3D registration methods as well as a breakdown of the different parts of its process, namely, detection, description, and matching (if available). We describe the motivation behind the process and explain in detail the different used approaches in determining the aligning transformation.

This paper presents the application of oxygen and argon plasma pre-treatments in combination with 1, 2, 3, 4 - butantetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) and chitosan, as part of research of pre-treatment processes for bovine leather tanned with various tanning agent. Pre- treatments of leather-tested substrate were conducted using different gases in order to assess different impacts of chemically reactive oxygen and inert argon gas on leather surface properties. The tests were carried out on bovine chrome tanned cleaved leather. Simple drop test was used for testing hydrophilicity of the sample, while the surface morphological changes were analysed using SEM microscopy. In order to examine leather performance in conditions of usage, the permeability of alkaline sweat solution under defined conditions was measured. Antimicrobial efficacy of treated leather sample was tested according to agar diffusion plate test against two bacterial species Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. Based on the obtained results it can be concluded that applied plasma pretreatments in optimized process conditions can contribute to the improvement of functional (antimicrobial) properties as well as wearability in conditions of use, primarily intended for footwear insole and similar products.

The paper presents a computer design of a unique textile pattern inspired by traditional Chinese motifs and clothing and the development of an original women fashion clothing collection with application of the created textile pattern in different variations. Using the CAD system for computer design and digital drawing, a unique motif for digital textile printing application was created. A women clothing collection of seven model was designed with all the sketches and technical drawings. During the collection computer design process, possibilities of connecting and applying digital textile patterns to model sketches were investigated. Complete clothing patterns development process was performed using CAD system for 2D/3D clothing design. 3D simulations of clothing models were performed to test the construction and patterns modelling and to analyse impact of textiles with different physical an mechanical properties on shape and visualization of designed clothing models. The designed digital textile pattern was applied to the computer 3D clothing prototypes, where the possibilities of positioning and transformations of textile pattern directly on the 3D prototype were explored with the aim of adapting the pattern to the clothing models form and shape and achieving continuity of motifs on the joining segments. The application of CAD systems in construction preparation proces enables the improvement of computer prototypes at different stages without making a real prototype that does not go on sale later, and thus contributes to the sustainability of the clothing industry. The presented development of the pattern for digital printing and its applications directly within the contours of the cutting parts represent a sustainable solution for the negative impact on the environment that traditional methods of clothing and printing production have.

U radu je opisana organizacija proizvodnje i proizvodnih linija za proizvodnju odjeće. Dan je pregled rada tehničke pripreme proizvodnje odjeće koja je početna faza u organiziranju proizvodnog procesa, gdje su opisani planovi tehnoloških operacija i tehnoloških procesa, sustavi tehnoloških procesa, vrste proizvodnih linija i navedeni su matematički izrazi za izračun podataka koji su potrebni za izradu plana tehnološkog procesa. Tehnološki proces izrade odjeće se izvodi kroz tri tehnološka procesa: krojenje, šivanje i doradu, koji su opisani u radu. U eksperimentalnom dijelu rada dan je opis modela ženska haljina „Harbour“ s kronološkim popisom tehnoloških operacija, sredstvima rada, kategorijom rada i vremenom izvođenja za sva tri tehnološka procesa (krojenje, šivanje i doradu). U rezultatima rada dan je slikovni prikaz karakterističnih tehnoloških operacija krojenja, šivanja i dorade te izračun podataka za dnevni kapacitet (Cd) od 350 komada ženskih haljina model „Harbour“. Nakon rekapitulacije vremena izrade izračunati su podaci o potrebnom broju radnika (R), dnevnom kapacitetu po radniku (Cd), taktu grupe (G), vremenu izrade(t1), količini potrebnih strojeva (Ks) za svaki tehnološki proces.

The sitting position is very common in daily life. Therefore, all clothing applied for this position should be comfortable. This is particularly important for disabled people who are restricted to the sitting position for their entire life due to their disabilities. These are people who suffer from paraplegia, multiple sclerosis or some injuries, and who have limited mobility using wheelchairs. This paper presents research on improving clothing design, adjusted to the special needs and demands of an individual, through the application of new technologies. In that respect, taking measurements is very important, as is the virtual simulation of garment fitting as the result of cuts adapted to the sitting position. Also, the research refers particularly to a functional garment item which could be a base for a garment model designed for disabled people.

The possibilities of the application of commercial papain enzymes from the papaya latex and its application in the modification of polyester knitwear were investigated in this paper. Two types of papain enzymes of corresponding properties were used together with activators to modify the surface morphology of polyester fibres. The polyester knitwear was treated with different temperature, pH, treatment time, and concentration. The optimal papain treatment conditions were identified as a pH 8, at temperature 40C, for 120 min, and papain concentration of 75 %. The results show that the papain treatments bring adequate effects. Especially, it was to refer to a water penetration, absorption and wetting time. The mechanical indicators are also checked (strength, elongation). Scanning electron microscopy has utilized to the structural and morphological understanding of polyester fibres surface in treated regime. This study confirmed that papain acts as an esterase, hydrolysing ester bonds in polyester fibres in knitwear.

Za izradu mikrovlaknastih materijala elektroispredanjem iz taline korišten je polimer polilaktid (PLA). Elektroispredanju je prethodio dizajn 2D modela u Sel generatoru, pri čemu su izrađene tri skupine modela koji se međusobno razlikuju po geometriji (raspored filamenata: vertikalno, vertikalno/vodoravno ili vertikalno/vodoravno i pod kutom manjim od 90°) te gustoći filamenata (udaljenost između filamenata od 0, 5, 1 i 2 mm). PLA elektroispredanje je optimizirano vizualizacijom stabilnosti polimernog mlaza te podešavanjem procesnih parametara (električni napon, tlak zraka, temperatura, udaljenost mlaznice od kolektora). U radu je utvrđen utjecaj geometrije strukture te gustoće filamenata na vlačnu čvrstoću PLA elektroispredenih materijala. Rezultati su pokazali da se povećanjem gustoće filamenata smanjuje vlačna čvrstoća materijala te da kompleksnije geometrije strukture (raspored filamenata vertikalno, vodoravno i dijagonalno) daju bolja mehanička svojstva materijala, zbog većeg broja naslojenih filamenata ili pozicioniranja istih u više smjerova.

The aim of this interdisciplinary research was to develop method of measuring density of yarns of historical textiles based on precisely captured digital micrographs. Such tool will minimize necessary handling of fragile textile artifacts and allow experts of different scientific disciplines (historians, technologists, conservation-restorers, etc.) to quickly and effectively determine key information for technical documentation of historical textiles. It will represent an alternative, but more favorable solution to analyse the yarn density of historical textiles fabrics rather than classical material decomposition method which involves microdestructive separation of individual yarns from fabric structure. The principal hypothesis established in this paper is that there is no difference between results of measuring fabric density with image analysis and with conventional methods. Conducted statistical analysis has proven that all test results for all comparisons showed that significance threshold has a value above (p>0.05), which means that the results of fabric density between manual and proposed method are statistically not significantly different therefore the initial hypothesis is being accepted.

In the technological sewing process, the execution of technological operations is most often performed in a sitting working position. When sewing on the sewing machine, the worker uses the torso and hands to perform machine- hand and auxiliary-manual technological sub- operations, and the feet to achieve the required sewing speed of the sewing machine in machine-hand sewing sub-operations. Due to the physic-mechanical characteristics of the work pieces, careful handling is required, which needs extremely good motoric and tactile abilities of the worker, which are manifested in the mobility and coordination of movements of the fingers, hands, arms and feet. The paper presents a study of workload and musculoskeletal disorders on a sample of 50 workers in the technological sewing process using the ANSI Z 365 questionnaire (American National Standards Institute). According to the survey, the average age of the working population was 48 years, while the average length of employment in this type of work (sewing) was 22 years. The analysis of the questionnaire revealed that 76% of workers felt pain in the neck area, 58% in the left shoulder, 90% in the upper back, 72% in the middle back and 70% in the lower back. Research data show that workers in the sewing process due to their long sitting position with the required high degree of motoric coordination of the body, arms and legs, and because of the high repetitiveness of performing the same movements, feel pain in the cervical spine, shoulders and the entire back area. In order to reduce workload and at the same time pain after many years of working in the sitting position, it is necessary to design a workplace so that the worker can use the proper posture of the body and head when sitting.

Weaving of table linens (table covers, decorative tablecloths and napkins) on large width weaving machines in a form of multiple tapes, weft cutting and selvedge forming on the edge of tapes are common and effective way of their production. However, the process of chemical finishing (desizing, bleaching, dyeing, mercerising, etc.) requires larger fabric widths, meaning that the napkins and table cloth have to be stiched back together after weaving in order to obtain the appropriate width corresponding to the working width of the finishing machines. Uneven thread tension in the seam, as well as inner fabric tension, and exposure to chemical agents, in wet and dry conditions, with various temperature conditions, can affect the thread in a seam and cause the seam damage. According to the obtained results, it is apparent that the thread from the seams has a lower tensile stiffness compared to the thread that is treated in the same way in finishing processes and to the thread from the cross- wound cone. The tensile stiffness of the sewing thread decreases mostly after the bleaching process. By visual inspection, it was found that the sewing thread damage was very localized and by marking these points prior tensile testing, it is found that the thread breakpoints where on exact places.

The paper presents the research of the development process of a unique women’s clothing collection with complex, structural sleeve forms. Using the 2D/3D CAD systems for computer clothing design, 15 models of women’s clothing with structural sleeve forms were constructed and modeled. Textile patterns were also computer-designed, as a preparation for digital printing on cutting parts of a particular clothing models. The computer clothing design included all the segments of the computer 3D prototype development, with the purpose of investigating the possibilities of modeling and 3D simulations of complex sleeve structures, which in the real manufacturing process require additional fixation of cutting parts. The influence of 3D simulation parameters, in correlation with the applied physical and mechanical properties of textile material, was investigated in order to achieve complex 3D forms of simulated clothing models. Color and textile patterns variations of computer-designed 3D models were developed with the purpose of achieving a realistic visualization of the designed clothing collection. Original prototypes were made for two selected models from the collection, with computer-designed textile patterns applied on a model using digital printing technology.

The International Scientific - Professional Symposium Textile Science & Economy (TZG) is a scientific and professional symposium, which aim is to bring together various respected scientists and leading industry experts from various areas of textile application, apparel, footwear, leather and accessories, in order to exchange their valuable knowledge and experience, establishing cooperation and accomplishing integration. The University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology has organised the 12th International Scientific - Professional Symposium Textile Science & Economy French - Croatian Forum 2019, together with Zagreb Innovation Centre and our renowned French partners ENSAIT (Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles) and GEMTEX Textile Research Laboratory. The Symposium is accompanied by a Book of Abstracts and Book of Proceedings. Our sincere thanks goes to all institutions, business entities, our partners, lecturers, patrons, sponsors, authors of papers, reviewers, exhibitors, organizing, scientific and editorial staff, as well as all other associates who have contributed to the publication of this Book of Abstracts. We hope that this French - Croatian symposium will lead to better cooperation between the researchers and business persons of the two countries, as well as in strengthening the sector’s competitiveness in the European market. We express great satisfaction with the response of renowned scientists and economy experts from Croatia and abroad, especially to Professor Vladan Končar, Professor Dominique Adolphe and Professor Paul Kiekens and to Mr Jacek Mlynarek. My special thanks goes to all of my young associates that brought this conference to this level, as well as to associations that have accepted to be the patrons of the conference, proving it to be necessary, justified and useful. My gratitude also goes to all other individuals and institutions that have helped organising the 12th TZG 2019 French - Croatian Forum.

The raw materials, fines and yarn structures for the production of simple fine women's hosiery and hosiery with increased compression are listed. Tubular knitted samples were made of a uniform structure used in making of fine women's hosiery. The samples were made on a 100 mm (4 inches) diameter of a cylindrical knitting machine with 400 needles and the gauge of E32. Tubular knitted samples were made in three weft structures: plain, partially plaited 1+1 and fully plated. In each structure, three subgroups of samples with three different loop sinking depths of 550, 700 and 850 units were knitted. In this way, nine basic samples were obtained that presented the basic structures of fine elastic women's hosiery with increased compression. In the manufacturing of the samples, the basic yarn is Polyamide with the fineness of 60 dtex f 60 and the yarn plating is the elastane yarn with the fineness of 22/17 dtex f7. The parameters of the knitting structure were measured with special emphasis on the length of the yarn in one knitted row, which ranged from 630 to 1320 mm. The tensile properties of the samples were measured in the wale and course direction. The compressibility of such tubular elastic knitted fabrics was measured after their tightening on a stiff cylinder which imitated the diameter/circumference of a particular part of the woman's leg. The diameter/range of cylinders were 110/350, 120/375, 125/395, 160/505, 200/630 and 250/790 mm. The measured compression was up to 1, 86 kPa (14 mmHg). The simpler constructions of fine women's hosiery are attaining compression on the cylinder (leg) up to 0, 80 kPa (6 mmHg), increased compression hosiery up to 1, 33 kPa (10 mmHg) and hosiery with a maximum compressibility up to 1, 86 kPa (14 mmHg).

The 12th International Scientific - Professional Conference Textile Science & Economy French - Croatian Forum took place in Zagreb, Croatia between the 23rd and 24th January 2019. The University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology organized the Conference in cooperation with our renowned partners: the Zagreb Innovation Centre, ENSAIT (Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles) and GEMTEX Textile Research Laboratory. The 12th International Scientific - Professional Conference Textile Science & Economy (TZG) 2019 was held with our respected French colleagues in order to present all of the necessity and potentials of both scientific and economical collaboration. This year’s aim of Conference was to bring together various respected scientists and leading industry experts from various areas of textile application, apparel, footwear, leather and accessories, in order to exchange their valuable knowledge and experience, establishing cooperation and accomplishing integration. The goal was to provide unified networking platform among Croatian, French and other international scientist and industry representatives.

The materials that are classified in the Mobiltech area, as a field of technical textiles, are witnessing fast growth, development and its share in the world textile market. Following the global ecological strategies, there is an increasing emphasis on the production and application of advanced textile materials with an ecological component, which will concurrently meet the high demand of the market. Accordingly, this paper presents an analysis of the textile material used for automotive application. The subject of the research is a textile material consisting of two components - woven and non-woven fabric, constructed in the way that the face and back of the fabric are made of nonwoven fabric, while the interior is made of woven fabric. The complex technological process of producing this material results in the realization of a textile material with exceptional properties, essential for the automotive application, such as softness, pliant and low mass, while retaining the properties of strength, resistance and comfort. Furthermore, this textile material satisfies a particularly important visual segment of aesthetic attractiveness as well as ecological acceptability.

Systematic studies of fibres from unconventional sources, such as pine caterpillar, open the possibility of exploiting a new raw materials. The pine processionary produces a natural, protein type fiber of animal source. Fiber is made out of two fibroin filaments wrapped with sericine, which is characteristic for silk fibers. This type of silk is called Mediterranean wild silk since the occurrence of producer species is reserved for Mediterranean area. The pine processionary is major cause of defoliation of Pinus species in the Mediterranean area, in spite of efforts to reduce the population of this insect in repressive manners. The paper presents the investigation of the morphology and textile - technological properties of Mediterranean wild silk as potential textile material. Silk cocoon nests, as well as the fiber structure and silk cocoon shells of the mediterranean wild silkmoth, Thaumetopoea pityocampa, collected from Adriatic region were studied and compared with the industrial standard, Bombyx mori. Characterization was performed by following methods: scanning electron microscopy (SEM), energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR), thermogravimetric analysis, fineness, tenacity and elongation at break of fibers.