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Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation.To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study.For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly.Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χThis study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.Même si les produits de soins pour la peau à base de rétinol améliorent l'apparence de la peau photovieillie, il est nécessaire d'obtenir une concentration efficace de rétinol procurant des bénéfices cutanés sans irritation.Comparer l'efficacité du rétinol à 0.1%, 0.3% et 1% en application locale dans le remodelage de l'architecture cutanée dans une étude d'irritation cutanée in vivo expérimental, et déterminer la tolérance des formulations les plus efficaces lorsqu'elles sont utilisées dans une étude à doses progressives quotidiennes en cours d'utilisation. MÉTHODES: Pour l'étude d'irritation cutanée, des produits à base de rétinol ont été appliqués sous occlusion, sur le muscle extenseur de l'avant-bras de volontaires présentant des signes de photovieillissement (n = 5; tranche d'âge: 66 à 84 ans), et des biopsies cutanées de 3 mm ont été obtenues après 12 jours. Les effets des différentes concentrations de rétinol, et d'un véhicule témoin sur les principaux biomarqueurs épidermiques et dermiques de la prolifération cellulaire et du remodelage dermique ont été comparés à ceux observés à une région non traitée. Séparément, les participants (n = 218) ont enregistré leur tolérance au rétinol à 0.3% ou 1% au cours d'un schéma posologique approuvé de six semaines, qui a progressivement augmenté les applications faciales à une fois par nuit. RÉSULTATS: Le traitement par rétinol a induit une augmentation progressive de l'épaisseur épidermique, et a induit l'expression des protéines de la couche cornée, la filaggrine et le KPRP. Le rétinol à 0.3% et le rétinol à 1% étaient aussi efficaces pour induire la prolifération des kératinocytes dans l'épiderme, tout en réduisant l'expression de la cadhérine E. Le dépôt de microfibrilles riches en fibrilline a augmenté après un traitement par rétinol à 0.3% et 1% (p 0.001).Cette étude suggère que les concentrations de rétinol de 1% et 0.3% étaient aussi efficaces pour remodeler la peau photolésée dans un modèle in vivo lors d'une utilisation à long terme. L'utilisation de rétinol à 0.3% dans l'étude à doses progressives a été associée à moins d'effets indésirables lorsqu'il est appliqué quotidiennement. Par conséquent, le rétinol à 0.3% peut être mieux toléré que le rétinol à 1%, permettant ainsi une application topique à plus long terme.

Loss and remodelling of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) are key features of photodamaged human skin. Green tea catechins (GTCs) have been explored for their anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive properties, but data on the impact of GTCs on ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced changes to the dermal ECM are lacking.To investigate the effect of an inflammatory dose of solar-simulated UVR on human dermal ECM and potential for protection by GTCs in a double-blind randomized controlled trial.In total, 50 healthy white (Fitzpatrick skin type I-II) adults aged 18-65 years were randomized to a combination of GTCs 540 mg plus vitamin C 50 mg or to placebo twice daily for 12 weeks. The impact of solar-simulated UVR at 3 × minimal erythema dose on the dermal collagen and elastic fibre networks was assessed by histology and immunohistochemistry in all participants at baseline. The impact of GTC supplementation on UVR-induced effects was compared between the groups post-supplementation.The area of papillary dermis covered by collagen and elastic fibres was significantly lower (P 0.001) in UVR-exposed skin than in unexposed skin. Significantly lower levels of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (P = 0.02), fibulin-2 (P 0.001) and fibulin-5 (P 0.001) were seen in UVR-exposed than unexposed skin, while procollagen-1 deposition was significantly higher in UVR-exposed skin (P = 0.01). Following GTC supplementation, the UVR-induced change in fibulin-5 was abrogated in the active group but not the placebo group, with no difference between the two groups for other components.Acute UVR induced significant changes in the human dermal collagen and elastic fibre networks, whereas oral GTCs conferred specific UVR protection to fibulin-5. Future studies could explore the impact of GTCs on the effects of repeated suberythemal UVR exposure of human skin.

Understanding why some wounds are hard to heal is important for improving care and developing more effective treatments. The method of sample collection used is an integral step in the research process and thus may affect the results obtained. The primary objective of this study was to summarise and map the methods currently used to sample wound fluid for protein profiling and analysis. Eligible studies were those that used a sampling method to collect wound fluid from any human wound for analysis of proteins. A search for eligible studies was performed using MEDLINE, Embase and CINAHL Plus in May 2020. All references were screened for eligibility by one reviewer, followed by discussion and consensus with a second reviewer. Quantitative data were mapped and visualised using appropriate software and summarised via a narrative summary. After screening, 280 studies were included in this review. The most commonly used group of wound fluid collection methods were vacuum, drainage or use of other external devices, with surgical wounds being the most common sample source. Other frequently used collection methods were extraction from absorbent materials, collection beneath an occlusive dressing and direct collection of wound fluid. This scoping review highlights the variety of methods used for wound fluid collection. Many studies had small sample sizes and short sample collection periods; these weaknesses have hampered the discovery and validation of novel biomarkers. Future research should aim to assess the reproducibility and feasibility of sampling and analytical methods for use in larger longitudinal studies.

Fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) constitute integral components of the dermal elastic fibre network with a distinctive ultrastructural 'beads-on-a-string' appearance that can be visualised using atomic force microscopy and characterised by measurement of their length and inter-bead periodicity. Their deposition within the dermis in photoprotected skin appears to be contingent on skin ethnicity, and influences the ultrastructure of papillary - but not reticular - dermal FRMs. Truncation and depletion of FRMs at the dermal-epidermal junction of skin occurs early in photoageing in people with lightly pigmented skin; a process of accelerated skin ageing that arises due to chronic sun exposure. Accumulation of ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced damage, either by the action of enzymes, oxidation or direct photon absorption, results in FRM remodelling and changes to ultrastructure. In the current study, the direct effect of UVR exposure on FRM ultrastructure was assayed by isolating FRMs from the papillary and reticular dermis of photoprotected buttock skin of individuals of either black African or white Northern European ancestry and exposing them to solar-simulated radiation (SSR). Exposure to SSR resulted in significant reduction in inter-bead periodicity for reticular dermis-derived FRMs across both cohorts. In contrast, papillary dermal FRMs exhibited significantly increased inter-bead periodicity, with the magnitude of damage greater for African FRMs, as compared to Northern European FRMs. Our data suggest that FRMs of the dermis should be considered as two distinct populations that differentially accrue damage in response to SSR. Furthermore, papillary dermal FRMs derived from black African subjects show greater change following UVR challenge, when extracted from skin. Future studies should focus on understanding the consequences of UVR exposure in vivo, regardless of skin ethnicity, on the molecular composition of FRMs and how this UVR-induced remodelling may affect the role FRMs play in skin homeostasis.

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) in sunlight has deleterious effects on skin, while behavioural changes have resulted in people gaining more sun exposure. The clinical impact includes a year-on-year increase in skin cancer incidence, and topical sunscreens alone provide an inadequate measure to combat overexposure to UVR. Novel methods of photoprotection are being targeted as additional measures, with growing interest in the potential for systemic photoprotection through naturally sourced nutrients. Omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (n-3 PUFA) are promising candidates, showing potential to protect the skin from UVR injury through a range of mechanisms. In this review, we discuss the biological actions of n-3 PUFA in the context of skin protection from acute and chronic UVR overexposure and describe how emerging new technologies such as nutrigenomics and lipidomics assist our understanding of the contribution of such nutrients to skin health.

In the postgenomic era, systems biology has rapidly emerged as an exciting field predicted to enhance the molecular understanding of complex biological systems by the use of quantitative experimental and mathematical approaches. Systems biology studies how the components of a biological system (e.g. genes, transcripts, proteins, metabolites) interact to bring about defined biological function or dysfunction. Living systems may be divided into five dimensions of complexity: (i) molecular; (ii) structural; (iii) temporal; (iv) abstraction and emergence; and (v) algorithmic. Understanding the details of these dimensions in living systems is the challenge that systems biology aims to address. Here, we argue that the hair follicle (HF), one of the signature features of mammals, is a perfect and clinically relevant model for systems biology research. The HF represents a stem cell-rich, essentially autonomous mini-organ, whose cyclic transformations follow a hypothetical intrafollicular “hair cycle clock” (HCC). This prototypic neuroectodermal-mesodermal interaction system, at the cross-roads of systems and chronobiology, encompasses various levels of complexity as it is subject to both intrafollicular and extrafollicular inputs (e.g. intracutaneous timing mechanisms with neural and systemic stimuli). Exploring how the cycling HF addresses the five dimensions of living systems, we argue that a systems biology approach to the study of hair growth and cycling, in man and mice, has great translational medicine potential. Namely, the easily accessible human HF invites preclinical and clinical testing of novel hypotheses generated with this approach.

Photoageing of human skin due to chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is characterized histologically by extensive remodelling of the dermal elastic fibre system. Whilst enzymatic pathways are thought to play a major role in mediating extracellular matrix (ECM) degeneration in UV-exposed skin, the substrate specificity of UVR-up-regulated and activated matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) is low. It is unclear, therefore, how such cell-mediated mechanisms alone could be responsible for the reported selective degradation of elastic fibre components such as fibrillin-1 and fibulin-5 during the early stages of photoageing. Here we use atomic force microscopy (AFM) and scanning transmission electron microscopy (STEM) to demonstrate that physiologically attainable doses (20-100 mJ/cm(2)) of direct UV-B radiation can induce profound, dose-dependent, changes in the structure of, and mass distribution within, isolated fibrillin microfibrils. Furthermore, using reducing and native PAGE in combination with AFM, we show that, whilst exposure to low-dose UV-B radiation significantly alters the macromolecular and quaternary structures of both UV chromophore (Cys, His, Phe, Trp and Tyr)-rich fibrillin microfibrils (fibrillin-1, 21.0%) and fibronectin dimers (fibronectin, 12.9%), similar doses have no detectable effect on UV chromophore-poor type I collagen monomers (2.2%). Analysis of the published primary amino acid sequences of 49 dermal ECM components demonstrates that most elastic fibre-associated proteins, but crucially neither elastin nor members of the collagen family, are rich in UV chromophores. We suggest, therefore, that the amino acid composition of elastic fibre-associated proteins [including the fibrillins, fibulins, latent TGFbeta binding proteins (LTBPs) and the lysyl oxidase family of enzymes (LOK/LOXLs)] may predispose them to direct degradation by UVR. As a consequence, this selective acellular photochemical pathway may play an important role in initiating and/or exacerbating cell-mediated ECM remodelling in UVR-exposed skin.