Search

The characteristics of swells within the East China Sea have been reported by Tao et al. (2017), while the question of where the swells come from remains unanswered. By using the wave model WAVEWATCH III and the swell tracking method proposed by Hanson (2001), the spatial sources of the swells are investigated during four typical typhoon scenarios, which usually affect the wave environment in the East China Sea, including the Recurving type, the Northward type, the Westward type (striking the East China Sea) and the Westward type (over the South China Sea). The numerical results show that parts of the swells are from the North West Pacific with a long-distance travelling. The moving paths of the swells are affected by the typhoon tracks, which result in various fetches. The Westward type (over the South China Sea) makes one peak in the evolution process. The landing process of the Westward type (striking the East China Sea) could result in swells with low energy. The swell energy depends on swell propagation distance, existence time and wind intensity of generation fetch. The consistent fetch and forceful wind intensity make swell carry more energy.

The water particle velocity of the wave peaks is closely related to the wave load borne by offshore structures. It is of great value for marine disaster prevention to study the water particle velocity of nonlinear extreme waves represented by Freak waves. This study applies the High-order Spectral Method (HOS) numerical model to analyze the characteristics and influencing factors of the water particle velocity of Freak wave peak with two different generation mechanisms under the initial condition of a weakly modulated Stokes wave train. Our results show that the water particle velocity of the wave peak increases linearly with wave height and initial wave steepness in the evolution stage of modulation instability. While in the later stage, the relationship becomes exponential. Under the condition of similar wave heights, the deformation degrees of Freak waves with different generation mechanisms are distinct, the deformation degree of modulation instability stage is smaller than that of the later stage. The water particle velocity of the wave peaks increases with the deformation degrees. Furthermore, the correlation between wave peak height and water particle velocity is a quadratic function. This provides a theoretical basis for further understanding of nonlinear waves and the prediction of marine disasters.

We theoretically and experimentally investigate the mechanism underlying the generation of upstream-propagating waves induced by a steady current over a horizontal bottom with a patch of sinusoidal ripples. By considering the triad resonant wave–ripple interactions involving two unsteady wave components (which have the same frequency but different wavenumbers) and one bottom ripple component in the presence of a steady uniform current, we derive the general condition under which unsteady upstream- and/or downstream-propagating waves can be induced. The frequency and wavenumbers of the induced propagating waves are given by the triad resonance condition in terms of current speed, water depth and bottom ripple wavenumber. By means of a multiple-scale perturbation analysis, we obtain the nonlinear amplitude evolution equations governing the spatio-temporal evolution of resonance-generated waves. Based on these equations, we find that the amplitude of the generated upstream-propagating waves is dramatically amplified when the associated triad resonance occurs in the neighbourhood of the critical current speed/frequency (corresponding to zero group velocity of unsteady waves in the presence of a current). A series of laboratory experiments in a long wave flume with wide ranges of current speeds and water depths are conducted to verify the theory. The experiments confirm the observation of the phenomenon of upstream-propagating wave generation in a steady flow over a rippled bottom. In particular, the experimental measurements of the kinematics of upstream-propagating waves as well as the critical flow condition for the observation of such wave generation compare well with the theoretical prediction.

This work, which was largely a fruit of China's national marine hazard mitigation service, explicitly reveals the major mechanism of sea-dike failure during wave overtopping. A large group of wave-flume experiments were conducted for sea dikes with varying geometric characteristics and pavement types. The erosion and slide of the landward slope due to the combined effect of normal hit and great shear from overtopping flows was identified the major trigger of the destabilization of sea dikes. Once the intermittent hydrodynamic load and swash caused any deformation (bump or dent) of the pavement layer, pavement fractions (slabs or rubble) on the slope started to be initiated and removed by the water. The erosion of the landward slope was then gradually aggravated followed by entire failure within a couple of minutes. Hence, the competent velocity would be helpful evaluate the failure risk if as well accounted in standards or criteria. However, the dike top was measured experiencing the largest hydrodynamic pressure with a certain cap while the force on the wall increased rapidly as the overtopping intensity approached the dike-failure threshold. The faster increase of the force on the wall than on the landward slope yielded the sequencing of loads reaching hypothetic limits before failure as: dike top – top-mounted wall – landward slope. Therefore, beside the slide failure, the fatigue damage due to the instantaneous hydrodynamic impact might be another mechanism of the dike failure, which did not appear in the experiment but should be kept in mind. Instead of the widely adopted tolerable overtopping rate, a 0.117–0.424 m3/(m s) range of overtopping discharge and a 10 m/s overtopping velocity for the failure risk of typical sea dikes along China's coastlines were suggested, which enables the possible failure risk prediction through empirical calculations. The failure overtopping rate was identified strongly dependent on the pavement material, the landward slope and the dike-mounted wall but showed little variation with the width of the dike top. The flat concrete pavement and gentle landward slopes are suggested for the dike design and construction. For given configurations and hydrodynamic conditions in the experiment, the dike without the wall experienced less overtopping volume than those with the 1-m top-mounted wall. Meanwhile, the remove of the wall increased the failure overtopping rate, which means a certain increase of the failure criterion. Thus, care must be taken to conclude that the dike-mounted wall seems not an entirely appropriate reinforcement for the stability and safety of coastal protections. This should be further checked and discussed by researchers and engineers in the future.

Wave energy has drawn much attention as an achievable way to exploit the renewable energy. At present, in order to enhance the wave energy extraction, most efforts have been concentrated on optimizing the wave energy convertor and the power take-off system mechanically and electrically. However, focusing the wave power in specific wave field could also be an alternative to improve the wave energy extraction. In this experimental study, the Bragg resonance effect is applied to focus the wave energy. Because the Bragg resonance effect of the rippled bottom largely amplifies the wave reflection, leading to a significant increase of wave focusing. Achieved with an energy conversion system consisting of a point absorber and a permanent magnet single phase linear motor, the wave energy extracted in the wave flume with and without Bragg resonance effect was measured and compared quantitatively in experiment. It shows that energy extraction by a point absorber from a standing wave field resulted from Bragg resonance effect can be remarkably increased compared with that from a propagating wave field (without Bragg resonance effect).

Fan, J.; Zheng, J.; Tao, A.; Yu, H, and Wang, Y, 2016. Experimental study on upstream-advancing waves induced by currents. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 846–850. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Due to the widespread existence of large-scale continuous submarine sandbars the coasts and estuaries, the interaction between the ambient current and this kind of topography is important and complicated. It has been known that regular free surface waves can be generated and propagate in the upstream direction, when a steady current with specific depth and velocity flows past the fixed periodic wavy bottoms with large steepness. This particular free surface response, called the upstream-advancing wave, has drawn attention in the past few decades but still lacks detailed quantitative study identifying the critical conditio...