The Antarctic Convergence is the region of the Southern Ocean where the cold waters of the Circumpolar Current mingle with the warmer waters to the north. Below is the Antarctic continent.Nearly two years ago, a colleague of mine made me a once in a lifetime offer: to join a team that would spend seven weeks working at a research station in Antarctica, the kind of offer that one cannot refuse. And refuse I did not, but it was not an easy decision. To begin with, such a trip would make me unreachable to people chasing me for faculty meetings, grant reports, referee reports, annual reports… The thought was almost unbearable, but I felt that I could handle such isolation. Other potential sources of distress were the harsh Antarctic weather and the very short daylight that we would encounter – our trip would take place at the end of the Antarctic fall – but, again, having lived in Dundee (Scotland) for four years, these I also felt I could handle. However, there was something else.As anyone knows, Spain is a peninsula with a long and intense maritime tradition. Yet, I am from Madrid, a city located right in the middle of the central arid plateau, 400 km away from the nearest sea and 600 meters above sea level; as far away from the sea as you can be when you are in Spain. Not surprisingly, seafaring is not in my genes. And it just so happened that our destination could only be reached by sailing across the Drake Passage, renowned as one of the world's roughest stretches of ocean, and definitely not the best choice for a gentle initiation into sailing. Eventually, however, I did not allow this minor consideration to become an impediment, and on Sunday April 27th 2008 I went onboard R/V Laurence M. Gould, a 76 meter long, ice-strengthened research vessel (http://www.nsf.gov/od/opp/support/gould.jsp), for the four-day crossing of the Drake, from Punta Arenas to Antarctica. Interestingly, the mooring point of the Gould was not far from what remains of the old pier once used by Ernest Shackleton. I will only add to this point that the infamous waters lived up to my expectations; the trip South was shaky, and the trip back North was atrocious (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sp72e_kejM).Our destination was Palmer Station (http://pal.lternet.edu/). Run by the US Antarctic Program, Palmer is located in Anvers Island, off the West coast of the Antarctic Peninsula (64.7 S, 64.0 W), and provides facilities for a range of research projects. Originally built by the US Navy, the station comprises two main buildings known as Bio Lab and GWR, and a number of smaller ones. Bio Lab houses the biological laboratories, together with services like the kitchen, dining room, communications centre, and weather room, as well as the bedrooms, still referred to as ‘berthing’ areas — a remnant of Palmer origins, like the concise and self-explanatory name of GWR, short for Garage, Warehouse, and Recreation areas. Nowadays, GWR also has its own berthing area. The smaller buildings include the aquarium, boathouse, dive locker building and others used for a number of geophysical science projects. Palmer is run on a communal basis and, besides everyone's specific duties as support personnel, scientists, surgeon, etc., all house chores like dishwashing, carpet cleaning, waste removal, window cleaning and the rest are shared without exception by everyone in the station, regardless of rank or experience.All aboard: R/V L.M. Gould anchored near Akademik Vernadsky Station (photograph taken from a zodiac approaching the vessel).View Large Image | View Hi-Res Image | Download PowerPoint SlideOur expedition was part of an NSF-funded project led by Professor Bill Detrich of Northeastern University, a marine biologist with ample experience on Antarctica (to whom I am indebted for this unique opportunity). Our goal was to collect material to study molecular determinants of cold adaptation of microtubule assembly and chaperonin-mediated protein folding in Antarctic fishes. The study would concentrate on two species of rockcod, Gobionotothen gibberifrons and Notothenia coriiceps, which amazingly develop, have mitosis, eat, mate and thrive in waters with the unappealing annual mean bottom temperature of −1.0°C. And getting those fishes was part of the fun. We collected them by benthic Otter trawl from the L.M. Gould in a number of expeditions that took us away from Palmer, sailing and trawling for a few days. Actually, the staff from the Gould did the trawling and we merely lent them a hand. These trips were really exciting. In one of them we crossed the Antarctic Circle — and got the corresponding certificate for it! In another of these trips we sailed, escorted by whales and penguins, along the Lemaire Channel and took the opportunity to pay a visit to the Ukrainian Antarctic Station, Akademik Vernadsky. From the fishes that we caught, my colleagues purified large quantities of the chaperonin CCT as well as putative cofactors, with which they are now trying to establish a functional very-low-temperature tubulin-folding in vitro assay. My part, more modest, consisted of purifying centrosomes with which, once back in my laboratory, I would carry out microtubule polymerisation assays at different temperatures using tubulin from the Antarctic fishes.Palmer Station: The entire Palmer community a few days before winter solstice (the author is the third from the left up in the balcony).View Large Image | View Hi-Res Image | Download PowerPoint SlideNaturally, before the trip I had some difficulties envisaging what work on the bench would be like in such a remote location, and I feared that the lack of any simple piece of equipment (rotors, columns, PAGE apparatus) could compromise the success of the entire project. My concern was groundless. Research facilities, both on board R/V Gould and at Palmer, turned out to be superb. I was also very impressed to see that all chemicals, antibodies, enzymes and small pieces of equipment that we had ordered — and the list was not short — were there when we arrived. This is a delicate part of conducting research in a place that is not on the main commercial routes: there is no next-day delivery in Antarctica and forgetting to order anything, no matter how trivial, can jeopardize the whole operation. No wonder then that such a list is thoroughly considered, revised, and supervised many months in advance, a job that was meticulously carried out by Bill's research technician Sandra Parker, whose contribution to the success of the expedition was paramount.And, if the research facilities were every bit as we needed them, the after-hours facilities were simply excellent and my colleague Jorge Cuellar (a specialist on CCT from the CNB in Madrid) and I made extensive use of them all. The gym, the sauna, the library, the video collection, the bar, and a hot tub overlooking the breaking front of the glacier, available round the clock, provided in-house entertainment with which to relax after work. At the weekends, weather permitting, sailing through brash ice in one of the station's zodiacs to visit the colonies of seals and birds in the nearby islands or hiking to the top of the nearby glacier were the most popular choices. Interestingly, at the top of the glacier there is a VLF receiver, maintained by researchers at Stanford University, which collects data for a project studying the effect that the approximately 1,000 lightning strikes that take place around the world per minute might have on global weather.At Palmer we enjoyed the company of another expedition, led by Professor Charles Amsler (University of Alabama at Birmingham, Alabama). Day in and day out his team, students, postdocs and professors alike, plunged into those nearly frozen waters that are home to a significant population of rather unfriendly leopard seals to collect samples for their studies on chemical interactions between organisms. We also overlapped, and shared lab and resources, with Professor John Postlethwait (University of Oregon, Eugene, Oregon) who carried out studies on a species of erythrocyteless icefish, a ‘natural knockout’ of the erythroid lineage that, indeed, breathes without haemoglobin.Needless to say, the entire trip was an astonishing experience that I thoroughly enjoyed. I would like to take this opportunity to thank both the entire staff at Palmer (special mention to the cooks Diane and Eric!) and the L.M. Gould crew who went to incredible lengths to make our life easier and facilitate our work. Incidentally, due to the excellent internet and telephone communication services at Palmer and on board the vessel, my dream of total isolation did not come true and unwanted requests for all sorts of reports kept coming. However, I learnt that saying something like “sorry, I am in Antarctica at the moment” works as an excellent deterrent. Try it!Hot and cold: Palmer provided great facilitioes for after-hours relaxation. The photograph shows the top of the ladder leading to the hot tub: plastic cups are allowed!View Large Image | View Hi-Res Image | Download PowerPoint Slide