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Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin.In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers.We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue.In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.Les lipides de la peau sont essentiels dans chaque compartiment de la peau où ils jouent un rôle clé dans diverses fonctions biologiques. Il est intéressant de noter que leur rôle est central dans le maintien de l'hydratation, liée à la fonction de barrière cutanée, mais aussi dans la structure même de la peau, par le biais du tissu adipeux. Il est bien décrit aujourd'hui que les lipides de la peau sont affectés par le vieillissement, ce qui entraîne un relâchement de la peau, des rides et une sécheresse. Ainsi, le développement d'actifs cosmétiques capables de réactiver les lipides de la peau serait une stratégie efficace de lutte contre le vieillissement. En raison de l'engagement fort de nos scientifiques à innover de manière responsable et à créer de la valeur, ils ont conçus un ingrédient actif à forte valeur ajoutée, appelé ici extrait de Vétiver, en utilisant une approche révolutionnaire de « up-cycling ». Nous avons démontré que cet extrait unique était capable de réactiver globalement la production de lipides de la peau, apportant une hydratation de la peau et un effet repulpant pour les peaux matures. MÉTHODES: Afin de démontrer le renouvellement global des lipides, nous avons évalué la synthèse des lipides sur les cellules cutanées qui produisent des lipides tels que les kératinocytes, les sébocytes et les adipocytes, puis sur un modèle d’Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et les explants de peau. Nous avons évalué l'expression des protéines impliquées dans le transport des céramides et la kératinisation de la barrière cutanée. Nous avons ensuite évalué l'hydratation et les paramètres sébacés sur un panel de volontaires matures. RÉSULTATS: Nous avons tout d'abord démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver induit la production de sébum à partir de lignées cellulaires de sébocytes humains mais améliore également sa qualité comme l'indique la production de lipides antimicrobiens spécifiques. Ensuite, nous avons démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver était capable de restaurer la barrière cutanée grâce à l'augmentation de la néosynthèse lipidique sur un modèle d’Epiderme Humain Reconstruit et sur des explants de peau. Nous avons également démontré que l'extrait de Vétiver stimulait le transport des lipides et la kératinisation de l'épiderme. Enfin, l'extrait de Vétiver a montré un effet significatif sur l'adipogenèse et la maturation des adipocytes dans des modèles in vitro et ex vivo. Nous avons confirmé à l’échelle clinique toutes ces activités en montrant que l'extrait de Vétiver améliorait la production de sébum et apportait une hydratation grâce à une augmentation de la teneur en lipides ainsi qu’une modification de leur conformation. L'extrait de Vétiver a induit une amélioration de la fatigue cutanée et un effet repulpant en agissant en profondeur sur le tissu adipeux.En conclusion, nous avons développé un ingrédient actif capable d'apporter un effet anti-âge aux peaux matures par une augmentation globale des lipides de la peau.

Background Intrinsic aging promotes wrinkles formation by an imbalance between matrix synthesis/degradation in favor of degradation. This is accelerated by the exposome leading to overproduction of protease and fewer remodeling. Objective Protecting the integrity of extracellular matrix appears as the most efficient anti-aging solution. We developed a grafted HA specifically designed to get anti-aging property due to a specific molecular weight and acetylation degree. Methods A transcriptomic analysis was performed on fibroblasts, followed by a measurement of MMP secretion and subsequent effect on collagen degradation. MMP expression in skin explants concerned by chronobiological and extrinsic aging was analyzed by immunostaining. A clinical study was conducted on volunteers presenting wrinkles on face to evaluate flash reduction of wrinkles after 6 h of application by profilometry and anti-aging efficacy after 2 months by VISIA® CR2.3. Results Transcriptomic analysis evidenced an inhibition of MMP gene expression with acetylated HA, confirmed by an inhibition of MMPs release by fibroblasts, and a protection of type I collagen against degradation. We confirmed the reduction of MMPs in mature skin and in skin explants exposed to UV and urban dust. We demonstrated during clinical studies the flash reduction effect of acetylated HA on crow's feet wrinkles and a filling of nasogenian areas 6 h after application, and a wrinkles number reduction on nasogenian area up to 2 months of application. Conclusion We developed a new grafted HA owing protective properties against ECM degradation induced by chronobiological and extrinsic aging, leading to a significant and efficient anti-wrinkles effect.

One of the most visible signs of hair ageing is greying of the hair, also known as canities. This hair disorder is mainly caused by oxidative stress. In preliminary work, we designed various models mimicking the impact of oxidative stress on hair pigmentation, showing an accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and a decrease in the presence of melanocytes and melanoblasts, resulting in a decrease in hair pigmentation. A proteomic study on skin scalp explants was performed to identify the dysregulated biological pathways related to canities. We developed a smart active ingredient which has been tested on these biological pathways. We demonstrated that these negative effects were rectified in the presence of the ingredient, showing a reduction of ROS, protection of melanocyte reservoirs and reactivation of hair pigmentation. Finally, a clinical study was carried out on a panel of 44 male volunteers with grey hair. After 4 months, we evidenced a reduction in the proportion of grey hair and in the number of grey hairs/cm2 relative to Day 0. In conclusion, we clearly evidenced that oxidative stress is a key factor in triggering a cascade of events leading to a loss of hair pigmentation. We developed this active ingredient which is capable of restoring all the disrupted mechanisms and of providing hair repigmentation within only 4 months.

Background Healthy skin is a delicate balance between skin renewal and microbiota homeostasis, and its imbalance promotes premature aging and dermatological disorders. Skin stem cells are key actors in this process but their sensitivity to aging and external stressors such as UV reduces the skin renewal power. The skin microbiota has been recently described as active in the healthy skin, and its imbalance could trigger some disorders. Aims We hypothesized that reactivation of stem cells and maintenance of microbiota could be a disruptive strategy for younger and healthier skin. We thus developed a new plant extract that restores the entire skin renewal process by sequential activation from stem cells stimulation to microbiota protection. Methods We studied stem cells comportment in the presence of Orobanche rapum extract by survivin immunocytochemistry and caspases 3 and 9 dosages. We also analyzed epidermal differentiation markers by immunohistochemistry and lipids organization by GC/MS At the clinical level, we investigated the impact of O. rapum extract on microbiota and on skin aspect. Results We demonstrated an active protection of skin stem cells through the maintenance of their clone-forming capacity and resistance to UV through the overexpression of survivin coupled to caspases inhibition. Furthermore, we showed the restoration of epidermal differentiation markers and ceramide biosynthesis favorable to orthorhombic organization. Clinical studies, including microbiota analysis, showed an active skin surface renewal coupled with microbiota protection. Conclusion We evidenced that our active ingredient is able to stimulate skin rejuvenation while protecting the cutaneous microbiota, creating healthier skin and thereby beauty.