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The stratum corneum represents the first skin barrier against chemical and physical damage. These unique properties are based on its peculiar lipid composition with ceramides (CERs) as the main protagonists. In this study, the structural and chemical properties of the α-OH phytosphingosine [AP] CER class have been investigated. α-OH CERs are present in the stratum corneum in their d-forms; however, in most model systems the diastereomer mixture with the synthetically produced l-form is used. The d-form is well-known to form a hydrogen bonding network that helps to reduce the permeability of the lipid matrix, while the l-form does not show any hydrogen bonding network formation. In this paper, 2D (monolayers) and 3D (aqueous dispersions) models have been used to thoroughly study the physical-chemical behaviors of CER[AP] diastereomers taking into account how the symmetry of the chain pattern influences the behavior of the molecules. The chains of both diastereomers arrange in an oblique unit cell, but only the d-CER[AP] forms a supramolecular lattice (subgel phase) in both model systems. Interestingly, the chain pattern does not play any role in structure formation since the hydrogen bonding network dictates the packing properties. The 1:1 mixture of the diastereomers phase separates into two domains: one is composed of practically pure d-form and the other one is composed of a mixture of the l-form with a certain amount of d-form molecules.

Ceramides (CERs) play a major role in skin barrier function and direct replacement of depleted skin CERs, due to skin disorder or aging, has beneficial effects in improving skin barrier function and skin hydration. Though, plants are reliable source of CERs, absence of economical and effective method of hydrolysis to convert the dominant plant sphingolipid, glucosylceramides (GlcCERs), into CERs remains a challenge. This study aims at exploring alternative GlcCERs sources and chemical method of hydrolysis into CERs for dermal application. GlcCERs isolated from lupin bean (Lupinus albus), mung bean (Vigna radiate) and naked barley (Hordium vulgare) were identified using ultra high performance liquid chromatography hyphenated with atmospheric pressure chemical ionization - high resolution tandem mass spectrometer (UHPLC/APCI-HRMS/MS) and quantified with validated automated multiple development-high performance thin layer chromatography (AMD-HPTLC) method. Plant GlcCERs were hydrolyzed into CERs with mild acid hydrolysis (0.1 N HCl) after treating them with oxidizing agent, NaIO 4, and reducing agent, NaBH 4 . GlcCERs with 4,8-sphingadienine, 8-sphingenine and 4-hydroxy-8-sphingenine sphingoid bases linked with C14 to C26 α-hydroxylated fatty acids (FAs) were identified. Single GlcCER (m/z 714.5520) was dominant in lupin and mung beans while five major GlcCERs species (m/z 714.5520, m/z 742.5829, m/z 770.6144, m/z 842.6719 and m/z 844.56875) were obtained from naked barley. The GlcCERs contents of the three plants were comparable. However, lupin bean contains predominantly (> 98 %) a single GlcCER (m/z 714.5520). Considering the affordability, GlcCER content and yield, lupin bean would be the preferred alternative commercial source of GlcCERs. CER species bearing 4,8-sphingadienine and 8-sphingenine sphingoid bases attached to C14 to 24 FAs were found after mild acid hydrolysis. CER species with m/z 552.4992 was the main component in the beans while CER with m/z 608.5613 was dominant in the naked barley. However, CERs with 4-hydroxy-8-sphingenine sphingoid base were not detected in UHPLC-HRMS/MS study suggesting that the method works for mainly GlcCERs carrying dihydroxy sphingoid bases. The method is economical and effective which potentiates the commercialization of plant CERs for dermal application., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare no conflict of interest., (Copyright © 2020 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well., (© 2020 The Author(s) Published by S. Karger AG, Basel.)

This study used neutron diffraction to investigate a ceramide-[NP] C24/[AP] C24 /[EOS]-br C30/cholesterol/lignoceric acid (0.6: 0.3: 0.1: 0.7: 1) based stratum corneum modelling system. By adding specifically deuterated ceramides-[NP]-D 3 , [AP]-D 3 , and [EOS]-br-D 3 , detailed information on the lamellar and the nanostructure of the system was obtained. For the short periodicity phase a natural-like lamellar repeat distance of 5.47 ± 0.02 nm was observed, similar to the [NP]/[AP] base system without the [EOS]-br. Unlike in this system the ceramides here were slightly tilted, hinting towards a slightly less natural arrangement. Due to the deuteration it was possible to observe that the long ceramide chains were overlapping in the lamellar mid-plane. This is considered to be an important feature for the natural stratum corneum. Despite the presence of a ceramide [EOS] analogue - able to form a long phase arrangement - no distinct long periodicity phase was formed, despite a slightly higher than natural ω-acyl ceramide ratio of 10 mol%. The deuterated variant of this ceramide determined that the very long ceramide was integrated into the short periodicity phase, spanning multiple layers instead. The - compared to the base system - unchanged repeat distance highlights the stability of this structure. Furthermore, the localisation of the very long ceramide in the short periodicity phase indicates the possibility of a crosslinking effect and thus a multilayer stabilizing role for the ceramide [EOS]. It can be concluded, that additionally to the mere presence of ceramide-[EOS] more complex conditions have to be met in order to form this long phase. This has to be further investigated in the future., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

This review is summarizing an important part of the state of the art in stratum corneum research. A complete overview on discoveries about the general biophysical and physicochemical properties of the known ceramide species' is provided. The ceramides are one of the three major components of the lipid matrix and mainly govern its properties and structure. They are shown to exhibit very little redundancy, despite the minor differences in their chemical structure. The results are discussed, compared to each other as well as the current base of knowledge. New interesting aspects and concepts are concluded or suggested. A novel interpretation of the 3-dimensional structure of the lipid matrix and its influence on the barrier function will be discussed. The most important conclusion is the presentation of a new and up to date theoretical model of the nanostructure of the short periodicity phase. The model suggests three perpendicular layers: The rigid head group region, the rigid chain region and, a liquid-like overlapping middle layer. The general principle of the skin barrier function is highlighted in regard to this structure and the ceramides biophysical and physicochemical properties. As a result of these considerations, the entropy vs. enthalpy principle is introduced, shedding light on the function as well as the effectiveness of the skin barrier. Additionally, general ideas to effectively overcome this barrier principle for dermal and transdermal delivery of actives or how to use it for specific targeting of the stratum corneum are proposed., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Replenishing the depleted epidermal CERs with exogenous CERs has been shown to have beneficial effects in improving the skin barrier and hydration. The exogenous CERs such as phyto-derived CERs (PhytoCERs) can be delivered deep into the SC using novel topical formulations. This, however, requires investigating the rate and extent of skin permeation of CERs. In this study, an LC/APCI-MS method to detect and quantify PhytoCERs in different layers of the skin has been developed and validated. The method was used to investigate the skin permeation of PhytoCERs using Franz diffusion cells after applying an amphiphilic cream containing PhytoCERs to the surface of ex vivo human skin. As plant-specific CERs are not commercially available, well-characterized CERs isolated from oat (Avena abyssinica) were used as reference standards for the development and validation of the method. The method was linear over the range of 30-1050 ng/mL and sensitive with limit of detection and quantification of 10 and 30 ng/mL, respectively. The method was also selective, accurate, and precise with minimal matrix effect (with mean matrix factor around 100%). Even if more than 85% of oat CERs in the cream remained in the cream after the incubation periods of 30, 100, and 300 min, it was possible to quantify the small quantities of oat CERs distributed across the SC, epidermis, and dermis of the skin indicating the method's sensitivity. Therefore, the method can be used to investigate the skin permeation of oat CERs from the various pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical products without any interference from the skin constituents such as the epidermal lipids. Graphical abstract ᅟ.

For this study mixtures based on the ceramides [NS] (NS = non-hydroxy-sphingosine) and [AP] (AP = α-hydroxy-phytosphingosine) in a 2:1 and 1:2 ratio, together with cholesterol and lignoceric acid, were investigated. These mixtures are modelling the uppermost skin layer, the stratum corneum. Neutron diffraction, utilizing specifically deuterated ceramide molecules, was used to obtain a maximum amount of experimental detail. Highly detailed molecular dynamics simulations were used to generate even more information from the experimental data. It was possible to observe a single lamellar phase for both systems. They had a lamellar repeat distance of 5.43 ± 0.05 nm for the [NS]/[AP] 2:1 and a slightly shorter one of 5.34 ± 0.05 nm for the 1:2 system. The structure and water content was uninfluenced by excess humidity. Both the experimental and simulation data indicated slightly tilted ceramides, with their C24 chains overlapping in the lamellar mid-plane. This arrangement is well comparable to systems investigated before. The structure of both systems, except for the differing repeat distance, looks similar at first. However, on a smaller scale there were various distinct differences, demonstrating only low redundancy between the different ceramide species, despite only minor chemical differences. The mainly ceramide [AP] determined 1:2 system has a slightly smaller repeat distance. This is a result of a tighter arrangement of the lipids chain along the bilayer normal and increased overlapping of the long chains in the lamellar middle. For the CER[NS] some novel features could be shown, despite it being the overall most investigated ceramide. These include the low adaptability to changed lateral interactions, leading to an increased chain opening. This effect could explain its low miscibility with other lipids. The investigated model systems allows it to directly compare results from the literature which have used ceramide [NS] to the most recent studies using the phytosphingosine ceramides such as ceramide [AP]., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Deficiency or altered composition of stratum corneum (SC) lipids such as ceramides (CERs), causing skin barrier dysfunction and skin dryness, have been associated with skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, and ageing. Replenishing the depleted native CERs with exogenous CERs has also been shown to have beneficial effects in restoring the skin barrier. Phyto-derived CERs such as oat CERs were shown to be potential for skin barrier reinforcement. To effect this, however, the oat CERs should overcome the SC barrier and delivered deep into the lipid matrix using the various novel formulations. In an attempt to demonstrate the potential use of oat CERs, lecithin-based microemulsions (MEs) and starch-based nanoparticles (NPs) were formulated and characterized. Besides, ME gel and NP gel were also prepared using Carbopol®980 as a gelling agent. The in vitro release and penetration (using artificial four-layer membrane system) and ex vivo permeation (using excised human skin) of oat CERs from the various formulations were investigated. The results revealed ME enhanced the in vitro release and penetration oat CERs compared to the other formulations. On the other hand, the NPs retarded the release of oat CERs and small quantities of oat CERs incorporated into NP gel penetrated into the deeper layers of the multilayer membranes. The penetration-enhancing effect of ME was also observed in the ex vivo permeation studies where significant quantities of oat CERs were found in the acceptor compartment. Compared to the ME, the ME gel exhibited reduced depth and extent of oat CERs permeation. As compared to NP gel, ME gel enhanced the degree of permeation of oat CERs into the deeper layer of the skin. Generally the gel formulations were effective in concentrating oat CERs in the SC where they are needed to be., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

This study was able to investigate the different influence of the d- and l-ceramide [AP] on the lamellar as well as molecular nanostructure of stratum corneum simulating lipid model mixtures. In this case, neutron diffraction together with specifically deuterated ceramide was used as an effective tool to investigate the lamellar and the molecular nanostructure of the mixtures. It could clearly be demonstrated, that both isomers show distinctly different characteristics, even though the variation between both is only a single differently arranged OH-group. The l-ceramide [AP] promotes a crystalline like phase behaviour even if mixed with ceramide [NP], cholesterol and free fatty acids. The d-ceramide [AP] only shows crystalline-like features if mixed only with cholesterol and free fatty acids but adopts a native-like behaviour if additionally mixed with ceramide [NP]. It furthermore demonstrates that the l-ceramide [AP] should not be used for any applications concerning ceramide substitution. It could however possibly serve its own purpose, if this crystalline like behaviour has some kind of positive influence on the SC or can be utilized for any practical applications. The results obtained in this study demonstrate that the diastereomers of ceramide [AP] are an attractive target for further research because their influence on the lamellar as well as the nanostructure is exceptionally strong. Additionally, the results furthermore show a very strong influence on hydration of the model membrane. With these properties, the d-ceramide [AP] could be effectively used to simulate native like behaviour even in very simple mixtures and could also have a strong impact on the native stratum corneum as well as high relevance for dermal ceramide substitution. The unnatural l-ceramide [AP] on the other hand should be investigated further, to assess its applicability., (Copyright © 2017 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The synthesis of specific deuterated derivatives of the long chained ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] is described. The structural differences with respect to the natural compounds are founded in the substitution of the 2 double bonds containing linoleic acid by a palmitic acid branched with a methyl group in 10-position. The specific deuteration is introduced both in the branched and in the terminal methyl group, which was realized by common methods of successive deuteration of carboxylic groups in 3 steps. These modified fatty acids resp. the corresponding ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] were prepared for neutron scattering investigations. First results of these investigations were presented in this manuscript showing that the deuterated compounds could be detected in the stratum corneum lipid model membranes. The deuterated ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] are valuable tools to investigate the influence of these long chained ceramide species on the nanostructure of stratum corneum lipid model membranes., (Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)

The very heterogeneous group of ceramides is known to be mandatory for proper barrier functions of the outermost layer of mammalian skin, referred to as stratum corneum (SC). The synthesis of a specifically deuterated ceramide [AP]-C18 variant is described. The synthesized ceramide contains the racemic forms of the α hydroxy fatty acid. For the biophysical implementation, the received diastereomeric ceramide was applied in a neutron diffraction experiment. Therefore, a SC lipid model membrane was prepared containing the described ceramide (CER), cholesterol (CHOL), stearic acid (SA), and cholesterol sulfate (ChS) in a ratio of 55/25/15/5wt%. Thus, we were able to localize the deuterated molecule part within the bilayers. In the process, a short-periodicity phase (SPP) was observed with a unit cell scale of about 44Å. For the first time, we were able to confirm former ideas concerning the arrangement of the CER within this quaternary lipid model membrane., (Copyright © 2017 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Ceramides (Cers) are major components of the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, and play a crucial role in permeability barrier functions. Alterations in Cer composition causing skin diseases are compensated with semisynthetic skin-identical Cers. Plants constitute new resources for Cer production as they contain glucosylceramides (GluCers) as major components. GluCers were purified from industrial waste plant materials, apple pomace (Malus domestica), wheat germs (Triticum sp.), and coffee grounds (Coffea sp.), with GluCer contents of 28.9 mg, 33.7 mg, and 4.4 mg per 100 g of plant material. Forty-five species of GluCers (1-45) were identified with different sphingoid bases, saturated or monounsaturated α-hydroxy fatty acids (C15-28), and β-glucose as polar headgroup. Three main GluCers were hydrolyzed by a recombinant human glucocerebrosidase to produce phyto-Cers (46-48). These studies showed that rare and expensive phyto-Cers can be obtained from industrial food plant residues.

The outer most layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes which are coated by a cornified envelope and embedded in a lipid matrix of ordered lamellar structure. It is responsible for the skin barrier function. Ceramides (CERs) are the backbone of the intercellular lipid membranes. Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis and aged skin are characterized by dysfunctional skin barrier and dryness which are associated with reduced levels of CERs. Previously, the effectiveness of supplementation of synthetic and animal-based CERs in replenishing the depleted natural skin CERs and restoring the skin barrier function have been investigated. Recently, however, the barrier function improving effect of plant-derived CERs has attracted much attention. Phyto-derived CERs (phytoCERs) are preferable due to their assumed higher safety as they are mostly isolated from dietary sources. The beneficial effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements for skin hydration and skin barrier reinforcement have been indicated in several studies involving animal models as well as human subjects. Ingestible dietary supplements containing phytoCERs are also widely available on the market. Nonetheless, little effort has been made to investigate the potential cosmetic applications of topically administered phytoCERs. Therefore, summarizing the foregoing investigations and identifying the gap in the scientific data on plant-derived CERs intended for skin-health benefits are of paramount importance. In this review, an attempt is made to synthesize the information available in the literature regarding the effects of phytoCER-based oral dietary supplements on skin hydration and barrier function with the underlying mechanisms., (© 2017 S. Karger AG, Basel.)

The outermost layer of the mammalian skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is a very thin structure and realizes simultaneously the main barrier properties. The penetration barrier for xenobiotica is mostly represented by a complex lipid matrix. There is great interest in the subject of getting information about the arrangement of the lipids, which are mainly ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHOL). SC lipid model membranes containing synthetically derived lipids in a non-physiological ratio were investigated. To compare the study to a former experiment, a methyl-branched ceramide [EOS] species in presence of the ultra-long chain CER[AP], CHOL and behenic acid (23/10/33/33, wt%) was applied. The membrane structure was studied using the very versatile technique of neutron diffraction. We were able to identify a long-periodicity phase (LPP) with a size of 114Å or 118Å with CER[EOS]-br in a ratio of >60wt% of the ceramides. Furthermore, we figured out two additional coexisting short-periodicity phases (SPP) with repeat distances of 48Å and 45Å, respectively. Partial deuterations of CER[EOS]-br and CER[AP] enabled the localization of the molecules within the multiphase system. CER[EOS]-d3 was present in the LPP, but absent in both SPP. CER[AP]-d3 was determined in both short phases but not localized within the LPP. Besides, we revealed influences of humidity and time with respect to the long-periodicity phase., (Copyright © 2016 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The synthesis of 12 deuterated ceramides with either a deuteration at the last carbon atom of the amide bound fatty acid or a perdeuterated fatty acid chain is described. The ceramides were prepared starting from sphingosine or phytosphingosine and ω deuterated or perdeuterated fatty acids with PyBOP® as activating agent in high yields. For the synthesis of the specifically deuterated fatty acids, dicarboxylic acids were transformed into ω deuterated alkyl bromide, which was chain elongated with blocked ω bromo alcohols by copper catalyzed Grignard coupling. Oxidation of regenerated alcohol function yields the ω deuterated fatty acids., (Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)

Ceramides (CERs) are integral parts of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum (SC), which is responsible for the barrier function of the skin. Many skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis are associated with the depletion or disturbance of the level of CERs in the SC. Administration of an exogenous novel dimeric ceramide (dCER) deep into the SC may help to stabilize the SC barrier substantially and to treat some skin disease conditions. Consequently, with the help of the existing technology, it might be possible to formulate various pharmaceutical dosage forms that can facilitate penetration of dCER into the SC. Therefore, the penetration of dCER was studied using a high-performance liquid chromatography/atmospheric-pressure ionization/mass spectrometry method for the detection and quantification of exogenous dCER in the SC as well as other skin layers. Penetration studies were carried out in the Franz diffusion cell using excised human skin ex vivo. Penetration of dCER was studied with 3 model formulations: a colloidal formulation (microemulsion), a cream formulation with ethoxydiglycol as penetration enhancer and a nanoformulation. The highest concentrations of dCER in the different skin layers were found after application of the cream with penetration enhancer. Surprisingly, the lowest concentrations of dCER in the different skin layers were found after application of the microemulsion., (© 2016 S. Karger AG, Basel.)

Several skin diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis are associated with the depletion or disturbance of stratum corneum (SC) lipids such as ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol. Studies suggested that replenishment of these lipids might help to treat diseased, affected or aged skin. With this premises in mind, there are some formulations in the market that contain SC lipids and currently, to facilitate permeation of the lipids deep into the SC, various CERs, and other SC lipid microemulsions (MEs) were developed and characterised using lecithin or TEGO® CARE PL 4 (TCPL4) as base surfactants. However, to date, there are no reports that involve the permeability of SC lipids into and across the SC, and therefore, the penetration of CER [NP] as a model ceramide from various formulations was investigated ex vivo using Franz diffusion cell. Besides, the toxicity of the MEs was assessed using hen's egg test chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM). The results of the study showed that CER [NP] could not permeate into deeper layers of the SC from a conventional hydrophilic cream. Unlike the cream, CER [NP] permeated into the deeper layers of the SC from both type of MEs, where permeation of the CER was more and into deeper layers from droplet type and lecithin-based MEs than bicontinuous (BC) type and TCPL4 based MEs, respectively. The CER also permeated into deeper layers from ME gels which was, however, shallow and to a lesser extent when compared with the MEs. The results of HET-CAM showed that both MEs are safe to be used topically, with lecithin-based MEs exhibiting better safety profiles than TCPL4 based MEs. Concluding, the study showed that the MEs are safe to be used on the skin for the controlled penetration of CER [NP] deep into the SC., (Copyright © 2013 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

There is considerable evidence for specific pathology of lipid metabolism in schizophrenia, affecting polyunsaturated fatty acids and in particular sphingolipids. These deficits are assumed to interfere with neuronal membrane functioning and the development and maintenance of myelin sheaths. Recent studies suggest that some of these lipid pathologies might also be detected in peripheral skin tests. In this study, we examined different skin lipids and their relation to schizophrenia. We assessed epidermal lipid profiles in 22 first-episode antipsychotic-naïve schizophrenia patients and 22 healthy controls matched for age and gender using a hexan/ethanol extraction technique and combined high-performance thin-layer chromatography/gas-chromatography. We found highly significant increase of ceramide AH and NH/AS classes in patients and decrease of EOS and NP ceramide classes. This is the first demonstration of specific peripheral sphingolipid alterations in schizophrenia. The results support recent models of systemic lipid pathology and in particular of specific sphingolipids, which are crucial in neuronal membrane integrity. Given recent findings showing amelioration of psychopathology using fatty acid supplementation, our findings also bear relevance for sphingolipids as potential biomarkers of the disease.

Purpose: To improve the solubility and penetration of Ceramide AP (CER [AP]) into the stratum corneum that potentially restores the barrier function of aged and affected skin., Methods: CER [AP] microemulsions (MEs) were formulated using lecithin, Miglyol® 812 (miglyol) and water-1,2 pentandiol (PeG) mixture as amphiphilic, oily and hydrophilic components, respectively. The nanostructure of the MEs was revealed using electrical conductivity, differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) and electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) techniques. Photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) was used to measure the sizes and shape of ME droplets. The release and penetration of the CER into the stratum corneum was investigated in vitro using a multi-layer membrane model., Results: The MEs exhibited excellent thermodynamic stability (>2 years) and loading capacity (0.5% CER [AP]). The pseudo-ternary phase diagrams of the MEs were obtained and PCS results showed that the droplets are spherical in shape and bigger in size. In vitro investigations showed that the MEs exhibited excellent rate and extent of release and penetration., Conclusions: Stable lecithin-based CER [AP] MEs that significantly enhance the solubility and penetration of CER [AP] into the stratum corneum were developed. The MEs also have better properties than the previously reported polyglycerol fatty acid surfactant-based CER [AP] MEs.

Ceramide AP (CER [AP]) is an integral component of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix and is capable of forming tough and super stable lamellae. It may help to restore the barrier function in aged and affected skin. However, its effectiveness from conventional dosage forms is limited due to its poor solubility and penetration into the SC. Therefore, stable polyglycerol fatty acid ester surfactant (SAA)-based CER [AP] microemulsions (MEs) were formulated and characterised to enhance its solubilisation and penetration into the SC. TEGO® CARE PL 4 (TCPL4: polyglycerol-4-laurate), isopropyl palmitate (IPP) and water-1, 2 pentandiol (PeG) were used as amphiphilic, oily and hydrophilic components, respectively. The effects of HYDRIOL® PGMO.4 (HPGMO4: polyglyceryl-4-oleate) as a co-surfactant (co-SAA) and linoleic acid (Lin A) as part of the oil component on the stability and characteristics of the MEs were investigated. EPR results were used for the first time to reveal MEs nanostructures. The release and penetration behaviour of the MEs was assessed in vitro by using a multi-layer membrane model. The results obtained showed that HPGMO4 and Lin A increased stability and expanded the ME region considerably. The formulations were stable for 10 to >24 months. Dynamic light scattering (DLS) results showed that the droplets were bigger and asymmetric, which might be helpful to localise the CER into the upper layers of the epidermis. Release and penetration from the MEs was superior as compared to the hydrophilic cream (DAB). The rate and extent of CER [AP] released and penetrated from O/W MEs was better than W/O MEs., (Copyright © 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Ceramides (CERs) are integral parts of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum (SC), which provide the barrier function of the skin. Administration of CERs deep into the SC may help to restore the barrier function in affected or aged skin. However, quantification of the amount of CER penetrated into the target site needs a selective and sensitive analytical method. Therefore, an LC/ESI-MS method was developed and validated for the detection and quantification of exogenous CER [NP] in the SC as well as other skin layers. The strategy involved synthesis of ceramide [NP]-D3-18 (deuterated CER [NP]) to distinguish it from the endogenous CER [NP] in MS on weight basis. The method was linear over 10-800 ng/ml and sensitive with a limit of detection (LOD) and limit of quantification (LOQ) of 3 and 10 ng/ml, respectively. It was also accurate with within-run and between-run percentage recoveries of 97.1-103.2 and 99.0-104.9, respectively. The within-run and between-run relative standard deviations (RSDs) were 0.9-5.4% and 2.1-7.4%, respectively, suggesting the method is precise. The method was highly selective and the matrix effect was too minimal with matrix factor (MF) mean and RSD values of 1.002 and 4.57%, respectively., (Copyright © 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the mammalian skin, is the main skin barrier. Ceramides (CERs) as the major constituent of the SC lipid matrix are of particular interest. At the moment, 11 classes of CERs are identified, but the effect of each single ceramide species is still not known. Therefore in this article, the thermotropic behaviour of the long chain omega-acylceramides CER[EOS] and CER[EOP] was studied using X-ray powder diffraction and FT-Raman spectroscopy. It was found that the omega-acylceramides CER[EOS] and CER[EOP] do not show a pronounced polymorphism which is observed for shorter chain ceramides as a significant feature. The phase behaviour of both ceramides is strongly influenced by the extremely long acyl-chain residue. The latter has a much stronger influence compared with the structure of the polar head group, which is discussed as extremely important for the appearance of a rich polymorphism. Despite the strong influence of the long chain, the additional OH-group of the phyto-sphingosine type CER[EOP] influences the lamellar repeat distance and the chain packing. The less polar sphingosine type CER[EOS] is stronger influenced by the long acyl-chain residue. Hydration is necessary for the formation of an extended hydrogen-bonding network between the polar head groups leading to the appearance of a long-periodicity phase (LPP). In contrast, the more polar CER[EOP] forms the LPP with densely packed alkyl chains already in the dry state.

This research paper provides direct evidence concerning the localisation of free fatty acids in stratum corneum lipid model membranes. We employed partially deuterated free fatty acids to gain further information about the assembly of a stratum corneum lipid model membrane based on a ceramide of the phytosphingosine-type (ceramide [AP]) with particular respect to the position of the deuterated groups of the free fatty acids. The application of behenic-22,22,22-d(3)-acid and cerotic-12,12,13,13-d(4)-acid confirmed that the short-chain ceramide [AP] forces the longer-chained free fatty acids to incorporate into the bilayer created by ceramide [AP]. The ceramide [AP] molecules determine the structural assembly of this model membrane and obligate the long-chain free fatty acids to either arrange inside this formation or to separate as a fatty acid rich phase.

The goal of this study was to investigate the nanostructure of SC lipid model membranes comprising the most relevant SC lipids such as the unique-structured omega-acylceramide [EOS] in a near natural ratio with neutron diffraction. In models proposed recently the presence of ceramide [EOS] and FFA are necessary for the formation of one of the two existent crystalline lamellar phases of the SC lipids, the long-periodicity phase as well as for the normal barrier function of the SC. The focus of this study was placed on the influence of the FFA BA on the membrane structure and its localization within the membrane based on the ceramides [EOS] and [AP]. The internal nanostructure of such membranes was obtained by Fourier synthesis from the experimental diffraction patterns. The resulting neutron scattering length density profiles showed that the exceptionally long ceramide [EOS] is arranged in a short-periodicity phase created by ceramide [AP] by spanning through the whole bilayer and extending even further into the adjacent bilayer. Specifically deuterated BA allowed us to determine the exact position of this FFA inside this SC lipid model membrane. Furthermore, hydration experiments showed that the presented SC mimic system shows an extremely small intermembrane hydration of approximately 1 A, consequently the headgroups of the neighboring leaflets are positioned close to each other.

The lipid matrix in stratum corneum (SC) plays a key role in the barrier function of the mammalian skin. The major lipids are ceramides (CER), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA). Especially the unique-structured omega-acylceramide CER[EOS] is regarded to be essential for skin barrier properties by inducing the formation of a long-periodicity phase of 130 angstroms (LPP). In the present study, the arrangement of CER[EOS], either mixed with CER[AP] and CHOL or with CER[AP], CHOL and palmitic acid (PA), inside a SC lipid model membrane has been studied for the first time by neutron diffraction. For a mixed CER[EOS]/CER[AP]/CHOL membrane in a partly dehydrated state, the internal membrane nanostructure, i.e. the neutron scattering length density profile in the direction normal to the surface, was obtained by Fourier synthesis from the experimental diffraction patterns. The membrane repeat distance is equal to that of the formerly used SC lipid model system composed of CER[AP]/CHOL/PA/ChS. By comparing both the neutron scattering length density profiles, a possible arrangement of synthetic long-chain CER[EOS] molecules inside a SC lipid model matrix is suggested. The analysis of the internal membrane nanostructure implies that one CER[EOS] molecule penetrates from one membrane layer into an adjacent layer. A 130 angstroms periodicity phase could not be observed under experimental conditions, either in CER/CHOL mixtures or in CER/CHOL/FFA mixture. CER[EOS] can be arranged inside a phase with a repeat unit of 45.2 angstroms which is predominately formed by short-chain CER[AP] with distinct polarity.

Ceramides covalently bound to keratinocytes are essential for the barrier function of the skin, which can be disturbed in diseases, such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. These ceramides of the classes omega-hydroxyacyl-sphingosine and omega-hydroxyacyl-6-hydroxysphingosine contain an omega-hydroxy fatty acid. For their separation and identification, a new analytical approach based on normal phase liquid chromatography coupled to atmospheric pressure chemical ionization mass spectrometry and tandem nano-electrospray mass spectrometry, respectively, is presented here. Tandem mass spectrometry provided structural information about the sphingoid base as well as the fatty acid moieties. The chain lengths of the bases ranged from C12 to C22, the chain lengths of the fatty acids varied between C28 and C36. In total, 67 ceramide species have been identified in human skin. The analytical methods presented in this work can be helpful for investigating alterations in the ceramide composition of the skin as seen in psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and diseases with impaired epidermal barrier function.

The ceramides of the stratum corneum are critical to maintaining the epidermal barrier function of the skin. A number of skin diseases and disorders are known to be related to impairments of the ceramide pattern. Therefore, obtaining mass spectrometric profiles of the nine ceramide classes known to exist aids our understanding of the underlying molecular mechanisms, which should eventually lead to new diagnostic opportunities: for example, the mass spectrometric profiles of patients suffering from serious skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis can be compared to those of healthy controls. Previous work on mass spectrometric analysis of ceramides relied mostly on GC/MS after hydrolysis and derivatization. The introduction of ESI-MS and LC/ESI-MS has provided new options for directly analyzing intact ceramides. However, some of the ceramide classes are not accessible to ESI-MS. However, as shown in this work, these limitations of GC/MS and ESI-MS can be overcome using a new approach based on normal phase LC interfaced with APCI-MS. Separation and online detection of the stratum corneum ceramide classes became possible in one run. Ceramide species with C26 and/or C28 fatty acid chains were the most abundant ones in Cer [NP], Cer [NH], Cer [AP], and Cer [AH]. The main component of Cer [AS] was C16. The omega-esterified ceramide classes Cer [EOS], Cer [EOP] and Cer [EOH] contained mostly species with fatty acids >C30. This was also the case for Cer [NS], suggesting an analogy to the omega-esterified ceramides. In addition, evidence for a new ceramide class Cer [NdS] was found.

The thermotropic properties of N-(alpha-hydroxyacyl)-sphingosine (CER[AS]) in dry and hydrated state were studied by means of X-ray powder diffraction and FT-Raman spectroscopy. The polymorphic states of the CER[AS]/water mixture (lamellar crystalline, lamellar hexagonal gel, liquid crystalline) depend on the thermal pre-treatment of the sample. Only by heating the CER[AS]/water mixture above the melting chain transition can the system be hydrated. At room temperature, both dry and hydrated states form lamellar structures, which differ in their repeat distance and packing of hydrocarbon chains. Above the melting chain transition, hydrated CER[AS] forms a liquid crystalline hexagonal phase, whereas anhydrous CER[AS] forms an isotropic liquid phase. The various phases of hydrated CER[AS] are distinguished on the basis of the corresponding Raman spectra.

Ceramides are sphingolipids consisting of sphingoidbases, which are amide-linked to fatty acids. In the stratum corneum, they represent the major constituent of the free extractable intercellular lipids and play a significant role in maintaining and structuring the water permeability barrier of the skin. Using thin layer chromatography, which represents the method of the first choice in analyzing the stratum corneum ceramides, at least seven classes can be distinguished. Each ceramide class contains various species, which have the same head group and different chain lengths. As in many other skin disorders, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis show derangements in content and profile of the ceramides. Such derangements were reported for both the lesional involved as well as for the normal-appearing uninvolved skin. In this study, we focused on investigating the stratum corneum ceramides of the uninvolved skin in atopic dermatitis and psoriasis patients compared to healthy skin. The aim of the investigations was to explore possible significant and specific differences which can be accomplished for purposes of early diagnostics. The skin lipids were collected by means of an in vivo topical extraction procedure using an extraction mixture consisting of n-hexane and ethanol, (2:1). An automated multiple development-high performance thin layer chromatography (AMD-HPTLC) method with photodensitometric detection were applied to separate the ceramides and to estimate their contents. For studying their molecular profile within each ceramide class, a new method of normal phase HPLC with atmospheric pressure chemical ionization mass spectrometry were used. The results obtained by AMD-HPTLC exposed no significant alterations regarding the relative composition of the major stratum corneum lipids and primarily the ceramides. In addition, the mass spectrometric profiles within each ceramide class were similar in the patients and the healthy control subjects. In conclusion, this study revealed that the normal-appearing uninvolved skin of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis patients does not prove significant or specific deficiencies with respect to the free extractable major stratum corneum lipids and mainly the ceramides, when compared to healthy skin. Thus, they cannot be used for diagnostic purposes. Furthermore, our data are not consistent with the concept that impairments in the ceramide composition represent an obligate etiologic factor for both diseases.

Neutron diffraction was used as a tool to investigate the lamellar as well as molecular nanostructure of ceramide-[NP]/ceramide-[AP]/cholesterol/lignoceric acid model systems with a nativelike 2:1 ratio and a 1:2 ratio to study the influence of the ceramide-[AP]. By using mixtures together with cholesterol and free fatty acids as well as a humidity and temperature chamber while measuring, natural conditions were simulated as closely as possible. Despite its simplicity, the system simulated the native stratum corneum lipid matrix fairly closely, showing a similar lamellar thickness with a repeat distance of 5.45 ± 0.1 nm and a similar arrangement with overlapping long C24 chains. Furthermore, despite the very minor chemical difference between ceramide-[NP] and ceramide-[AP], which is only a single OH group, it was possible to demonstrate substantial differences between the structural influence of the two ceramides. Ceramide-[AP] could be concluded to be arranged in such a way that its C24 chain in both ratios is somehow shorter than that of ceramide-[NP], not overlapping as much with the opposite lamellar leaflet. Furthermore, in the unnatural 1:2 ratio, the higher ceramide-[AP] content causes an increased tilt of the ceramide acyl chains. This leads to even less overlapping within the lamellar midplane, whereas the repeat distance stays the same as for the ceramide-[NP]-rich system. In this nativelike 2:1 ratio, the chains are arranged mostly straight, and the long C24 chains show a broad overlapping region in the lamellar midplane. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the skin and is composed of a multilayered assembly of mostly ceramids (Cer), free fatty acids, cholesterol (Chol), and cholesterol sulfate (Chol-S). Because of the tight packing of these lipids, the SC features unique barrier properties defending the skin from environmental influences. Under pathological conditions, where the skin barrier function is compromised, topical application of molecules that rigidify the SC may lead to a restored barrier function. To this end, molecules are required that incorporate into the SC and bring back the original rigidity of the skin barrier. Here, we investigated the influence of a novel dimeric ceramide (dim-Cer) molecule designed to feature a long, rigid hydrocarbon chain ideally suited to forming an orthorhombic lipid phase. The influence of this molecules on the thermotropic phase behavior of a SC mixture consisting of Cer[AP18] (55 wt %), cholesterol (Chol, 25 wt %), steric acid (SA, 15 wt %), and cholesterol sulfate (Chol-S, 5 wt %) was studied using a combination of neutron diffraction and ²H NMR spectroscopy. These methods provide detailed insights into the packing properties of the lipids in the SC model mixture. Dim-Cer remains in an all-trans state of the membrane-spanning lipid chain at all investigated temperatures, but the influence on the phase behavior of the other lipids in the mixture is marginal. Biophysical experiments are complemented by permeability measurements in model membranes and human skin. The latter, however, indicates that dim-Cer only partially provides the desired effect on membrane permeability, necessitating further optimization of its structure for medical applications. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this study, we present a preparation method for a new stratum corneum (SC) model system, which is closer to natural SC than the commonly used multilayer models. The complex setup of the native SC lipid matrix was mimicked by a ternary lipid mixture of ceramide [AP], cholesterol, and stearic acid. A spin coating procedure was applied to realize oligo-layered samples. The influence of lipid concentration, rotation speed, polyethylenimine, methanol content, cholesterol fraction, and annealing on the molecular arrangement of the new SC model was investigated by X-ray reflectivity measurements. The new oligo-SC model is closer to native SC in the total number of lipid membranes found between corneocytes. The reduction in thickness provides the opportunity to study the effects of drugs and/or hydrophilic penetration enhancers on the structure of SC in full detail by X-ray or neutron reflectivity. In addition, the oligo-lamellar systems allows one to infer not only the lamellar spacing, but also the total thickness of the oligo-SC model and changes thereof can be monitored. This improvement is most helpful for the understanding of transdermal drug administration on the nanoscale. The results are compared to the commonly used multilamellar lipid model systems and advantages and disadvantages of both models are discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]