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Compression properties of textile materials are useful for determining fullness, softness, smoothness, and stiffness. In addition, compression parameters have significant influence on fabric hand value and quality of textile materials. The present paper reports a study of the sublimation printing process influence on the change in compression properties of knitted fabrics (polyester, cotton, and cotton/ polyester) intended for sportswear manufacturing. For that purpose, the KES-FB3-A Compression Tester was used for measuring compression parameters of knitted fabrics. The parameters, which contributed to the smallest reduction percentage in compression properties of polyester knitted fabrics were yarn linear density and weight. For cotton-rich knitted fabrics sublimation coating powder was used for paper modification to bond disperse dyes to cotton fibres. The analysis of the results showed that the printing process had a smaller influence on the change of compression parameters of polyesters in relation to cotton and cotton/polyester knitted fabrics. It was noted that the printing process had the effect of thickness reduction for all knitted fabrics to varying degrees. Printing process contributed to small decrease in compressibility and specific volume values for polyester knitted fabrics. The modification process contributed to the significant reduction of the compressibility for cotton (from 34.46% to 47.89%) and cotton/polyester (from 38.81% to 50.75%) knitted fabrics. In addition, reduction in specific volume values range from 41.86% to 44.19% for cotton and from 42.37% to 45.75% for cotton/ polyester knitted fabrics was notted.

This study presents research into drawing conditions’ in∞uences on the mechanical properties of Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) fllament sewing thread. The thread was drawn by varying the treatment temperature and contact time on the flrst heated cylinder (T1, n1) and on the second heated cylinder (T2, n2), as well as by using difierent draw ratios (‚). The critical treatment conditions were found using the drawing process (T14=130 ‐ C, n15=13 turns, ‚5=1.25, T24=220 ‐ C, n23=9 turns) and the greatest improvement in the mechanical properties, respectively. Deterioration in the threads’ mechanical properties was observed above the critical treatment conditions. The mechanical properties of the drawn threads were investigated under critical treatment conditions. It was found that the heat treatment conditions on the second cylinder, i.e. the treatment temperature and the contact time had the greatest in∞uences on the improvement of the elastic modulus (D4=7.41 cN/tex, E3=7.40 cN/tex) and the breaking extension (D4=12.13%, E3=12.12%), when compared with the treatment temperature and the contact time on the flrst cylinder and the draw ratio between the heated cylinders. The maximal value of the breaking tenacity showed threads that were drawn at the critical draw ratio (C5=61.81 cN/tex) and the contact time of the thread with the second heated cylinder (E3=61.59 cN/tex). Simultaneously, the treatment conditions on the second cylinder afiected the maximum reduction of the thread’s linear density (D4=91.33 tex, E3=91.47 tex) and twist (D4=163 turns/m, E3=180 turns/m). The greatest improvement in the tension at the yield point achieved threads that were drawn at the critical draw ratio (C5=9.27 cN/tex) and the heat-treatment temperature on the second cylinder (D4=9.27 cN/tex).

For the production of drawn poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) filament threads it is useful to determine the relationship between the drawing process conditions and the resulting product properties. Drawing at an elevated temperature over a defined time usually causes changes of the polymer structural parameters that influence the mechanical properties of the filaments. In order to elucidate the physical background of the drawing process for developing the production process of PET filament sewing thread, the thread was drawn by varying the treatment temperature and contact time. The effect of the treatment conditions on the structural and mechanical properties of the drawn threads was investigated, such as the birefringence, crystallinity, and dynamic mechanical properties of the threads’ filaments, as well as the mechanical properties and shrinkage of the treated threads. Using the drawing process, higher temperature and contact time up to the critical values ( T2 = 220°C, n2 = 9 turns) change the structural parameters and, consequently, any modifications influence changes in the mechanical properties of the threads. Namely, a higher treatment temperature and contact time increases the degree of crystallinity, the birefringence, and the maxima of the loss tangent and loss modulus temperature, and a significant increase in the breaking tenacity, elastic modulus and the thread’s tension at the yield point, and a decrease of the breaking extension is achieved. The observed deterioration of the thread’s mechanical properties above the critical treatment conditions is attributed to the destructive phenomena of the supra-molecular structure, resulting in an imperfect structure of the thread’s filaments.

A drawn PET filament sewing thread for the automotive industry was used for this research. This study concerned itself with the draw ratio’s influence regarding certain physical properties of the threads, the tensile properties during sewing and the mechanical properties after sewing in order to estimate the drawn thread’s sewing performance. An increase in the draw ratio caused a decrease in the linear density, and thread twist. In addition, the tenacity, elastic modulus and tension at the yield point were increased when drawing, whilst the breaking extension decreased. It was found that tensile fatigue and heat loading during the sewing process cause changes in the threads’ mechanical properties, depending on the draw ratio. The tenacity, elastic modulus and tension at the yield point had decreased after the sewing process, whilst the breaking extension decreased for those threads drawn at lower draw ratios, and increased for those drawn at higher draw ratios. The results show that those threads drawn at higher draw ratios displayed inappropriate sewing performance, resulting from inadequate elastic and surface characteristics.

Self-cleaning surfaces based on photocatalysis are an extremely promising nano-technological field of extensive research and development. Recently comprehensive research work has been performed to evaluate the optical, photocatalytic and antimicrobial properties of TiO2 nano-particles and composites thereof. The aim of this study was to obtain self-cleaning properties for regenerate cellulose surfaces by nano-modification, using TiO2 nano-coating and to define the impact of the modification on fabrics end-use properties. Two different modified fabrics with self-cleaning effect were prepared and analysed, i.e. the modification efficiency was determined. In addition, the influence of fibre modification on several textile properties was determined. However, a soft handle, good appearance and some other surface properties accompanied by appropriate mechanical properties represent the basis for a high quality fabric therefore the influence of the modification procedure on textiles handle was studied.

PurposeThe purpose of this study was to investigate the heat and moisture transmission through different types of textile materials or material combinations used for male business clothing.Design/methodology/approachIn this study, eight different material combinations, which simulate four‐layer male business clothing system were tested using the sweating cylinder under two environmental conditions (10°C/65% RH and 25°C/65% RH), and at two sweating levels (100 and 200 gm−2h−1), in order to evaluate the heat and moisture transmission properties of material combinations.FindingsThe results show how combinations of clothing materials that simulate male business clothing system influence on the dry and evaporative heat loss between the cylinder surface and two different environment conditions as well as to different sweating levels.Practical implicationsThe sweating cylinder can be used for measuring the heat and moisture transmission through clothing materials or material combinations in order to find out the best combination of textile materials, which simulate clothing system. Measured thermal comfort properties of material combinations evaluated with a sweating cylinder can provide valuable information for the textile and clothing industry by manufacturing/designing new textiles and clothing systems.Originality/valueThe paper investigated the heat and moisture transmission through combinations of clothing materials that simulate male business clothing system. In the past few years, clothing materials containing microencapsulated phase‐change materials (PCMs) have appeared in outdoor garments, particularly sportswear; therefore, we decided to investigate the combinations of standard used textile materials as well as of materials, containing PCMs, which simulate male business clothing system.

The properties of 100 % PES core-spun threads were studied before and after the sewing process at different stitching speeds, by determination of the threads tensile force during the sewing process and by changes of the mechanical and thermo-mechanical properties after the sewing process. This analytical method is especially advantageous when monitoring contemporary thermal and mechanical effects, as is the case when loading the sewing thread. Loadings during the sewing process cause structural changes in the thread-twisted fibres. This is confirmed by changes in the thermo-mechanical properties after the sewing process. Simultaneously, changes in the threads mechanical properties after sewing were also observed.

In order to design high-quality threads, it is necessary to know the properties of threads and fibers, as well as the loadings and deformations which may occur during the sewing process. Thread properties depend on the mechanical properties of the fiber and the constructional parameters of the thread and its surface treatment, which directly influence sewing performance. The mechanical properties of a thread primarily depend on the fiber mechanical properties and the amount of twist. Knowledge of the thread dynamic loadings during the sewing process, depending on the number of turns and the lubrication method, is important for planning the required processing properties of the thread. This paper presents research into the influence of thread twist and the lubrication method on the mechanical properties and dynamic load of PES core-spun thread and its fibers. Research into the mechanical properties of the different twisted and surface treated threads, and separated fibers was carried out for this purpose. The influence of thread dynamic load during a sewing process was also researched regarding any alterations in the mechanical properties of the threads and separated fibers. Analyses of the results show that the amount of twist depends on the mechanical properties of the thread and its constituent fibers, whilst the method of surface treatment is based on the specific mechanical properties of the thread. A dynamic load causes greater or smaller thread deformations, which is reflected in changes in the thread and fiber mechanical properties. The occurred changes depend on dynamic load, amount of twist, and the lubrication method, which is confirmed with statistical analysis of the measured results.

PurposeIn this paper, special attention is focused on the study of the relaxation phenomena of fabrics containing elastane yarn.Design/methodology/approachFor this purpose, the relaxation phenomena of wound fabric under constant deformation, as the consequence of accumulated stress during winding, were analysed. Maxwell's model and the modified standard linear solid model are used for explaining the relaxation.FindingsThe results of the study of the relaxation phenomena of fabrics containing elastane yarn show a close connection between stress relaxation under constant deformation in the fabric roll and the degree of deformation with manual unwinding. Expert knowledge of the relaxation phenomena in fabrics containing elastane yarns has a big influence on explaining the problem of dimensional changes and instability in such fabrics.Originality/valueA better understanding of the relaxation phenomena in fabrics containing elastane yarns.

Garment is presumably the only product where, in the tailoring process, a two‐dimensional fabric is converted into a three‐dimensional shape without indirect physical remodelling of the material. Such a remodelling is directly associated with the physical behaviour of fabric structure, which can be treated as a very complex system owing to its constructional properties. Fabrics are non‐homogeneous and anisotropic materials. Very small stresses on textile materials cause extremely large strains, so that the deformations occurring are highly non‐linear. Non‐linear properties of textile materials and thus, connected deformations at low stresses are closely related to the elastic potential and influence fabric draping and fitting of the garment manufactured. For this purpose, the relationship between fabric elastic potential, as an important property under lower tensile load, and garment appearance quality, will be investigated. The investigation is subdivided into two parts. The first part presents the study of relationship between the elastic potential and particular mechanical properties of fabrics, whereas the second part of the investigation is concerned with studying the influence of fabric elastic potential on the drapeability, respectively, appearance quality of the garment manufactured.

In transforming fabrics into garment it is necessary to know, besides the manner of processing, the behaviour of the fabric in particular manufacturing processes. It is necessary to define why and how fabrics behave in a particular way when exposed to various strains. The answers to these questions are obtained by investigating fabric mechanics, as non‐linear mechanical fabric properties at lower strains, which is the case in transforming fabrics into garments. The area to be investigated is quite wide and the investigations presented here deal only with the most important elastic strains occurring in processing fabrics into garments, such as tensile, pressure, shear and bending, as each individual type of strain bears specific importance in studying fabric behaviour, as well as in garment quality control. Strains impacting the fabric, i.e. the reaction of the fabric to these strains, are presented through the parameters of mechanical properties. A relation is also explained between characteristic histeresis curves and fabric behaviour in real garment manufacturing processes, obtained through recording fabric behaviour in particular garment manufacturing processes. Results obtained through the investigations of mechanical properties of the fabrics analysed and their behaviour in garment manufacturing processes helped to determine the so‐called critical, or border values for particular parameters of mechanical properties.

Presents the study of the relationship between the deformation of the sewing thread and built‐in fibres as a consequence of a thread loading in the sewing process. The influence of the stitching speed and different twist numbers of PES thread on the alteration of the mechanical properties of the fibres twisted in the thread was studied for that purpose. On the basis of the received results it was found that with an increase in the number of the thread twist, the breaking tenacity and initial elasticity modulus of the fibres decrease, while the resulting deformation of the sewing thread between the sewing process was reflected as a decrease in the fineness and breaking extension of the fibres and as an increase in the value of the initial elasticity modulus of the fibres.