Search

Flavonoids, a type of natural polyphenolic molecule, have garnered significant research interest due to their ubiquitous nature and diverse biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer effects, making them appealing to various scientific disciplines. In this regard, the use of a flavonoid nanoparticle delivery system is to overcome low bioavailability, bioactivity, poor aqueous solubility, systemic absorption, and intensive metabolism. Therefore, this review summarizes the classification of nanoparticles (liposomes, polymeric, and solid lipid nanoparticles) and the advantages of using nanoparticle-flavonoid formulations to boost flavonoid bioavailability. Moreover, this review illustrated the pioneering biomedical applications of nanoparticle-based flavonoid therapeutics, as well as safety and toxicity considerations of using a flavonoid nanoparticle delivery system., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Published by Elsevier B.V.)

Natural products and botanicals continue to play a very important role in the development of cosmetics worldwide. The chemical constituents of a fine active fraction of the whole plant extract of Cuphea hookeriana Walp., and the tyrosinase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibitory and antioxidant activities of this fraction were investigated. The fine active fraction was mainly composed of seven natural compounds. The fine active fraction demonstrated substantial in vitro antioxidant potential using the ABTS assay (IC 50 1.66 μg/mL). It inhibited the two target enzymes (tyrosinase and MMP-1) engaged in skin whitening and aging with comparable IC 50 values to the reference drugs. Acute toxicity experiments showed that mice gavage orally with the fine active fraction had no significant animal toxicity at a dose of 2000 mg/kg, and the maximum tolerated dose (MTD) in mice was greater than 2000 mg/kg. In a model where ultraviolet light promotes the increase in melanin secretion in guinea pig skin tissues, both α-arbutin and the fine active fraction can reduce melanogenesis, and the effect of the fine active fraction is better than that of α-arbutin.

Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) is a registered DNA-derived proprietary drug containing a mixture of DNA fragments of molecular weights of 50 and 1500 kDa extracted mainly from salmon with a highly pure active substance (>95 %). It has many valuable medicinal effects and multi-functions related to cosmeceuticals. In-vivo tests and even clinical trials have confirmed this substance as non-toxic. Its promising bioactivities and safety profile have prompted increasing research and discovery of this active ingredient. However, most previous review papers have only focused on the bioactivities of PDRN in medicine and mainly evaluated the efficiency of salmon-derived sources. Only one review has elucidated the capacity of PDRN as promising anti-aging without mentioning other effects in cosmeceuticals. Thus, an overview of novel sources for the extraction of PDRN and their functions in the cosmeceuticals field is lacking, and is the main topic of discussion in this review. Besides general information about PDRN, this review evaluated the advantages and disadvantages of different novel sources and procedures for PDRN extraction. The bioactivities of PDRN regarding cosmeceuticals are also elucidated comprehensively. This review aims to supply worthy scientific information for further studies on PDRN extraction and its bioactivity in cosmeceuticals., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare no conflict of interest., (Copyright © 2024 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Cosmeceuticals, focusing on enhancing skin health and appearance, heavily rely on emulsions as one of the common mediums. These emulsions pose a challenge due to their dependence on surfactants which are essential for stability but are causing concerns about environmental impact as well as evolving consumer preferences. This has led to research focused on Pickering emulsions (PEs), which are colloidal particle-based emulsion alternatives. Compared to conventional emulsions, PEs offer enhanced stability and functionality in addition to serving as a sustainable alternative but still pose challenges such as rheological control and requiring further improvement in long-term stability, whereby the limitations could be addressed through the introduction of a hydrogel network. In this review, we first highlight the strategies and considerations to optimize active ingredient (AI) absorption and penetration in a PE-based formulation. We then delve into a comprehensive overview of the potential of Pickering-based cosmeceutical emulsions including their attractive features, the various Pickering particles that can be employed, past studies and their limitations. Further, PE hydrogels (PEHs), which combines the features between PE and hydrogel as an innovative solution to address challenges posed by both conventional emulsions and PEs in the cosmeceutical industry is explored. Moreover, concerns related to toxicity and biocompatibility are critically examined, alongside considerations of scalability and commercial viability, providing a forward-looking perspective on potential future research directions centered on the application of PEHs in the cosmeceutical field., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024. Published by Elsevier B.V.)

Despite the abundance of natural biological resources in Aronia melanocarpa, there is still insufficient research specifically exploring the potential for developing cosmeceutical compositions utilizing this plant. To develop the ingredient with the cosmeceutical function, the anti-wrinkle effect of the ethanol extract of A. melanocarpa was investigated. The ethanol extract was prepared from the dried A. melanocarpa. DPPH radical scavenging activity was significantly increased by the ethanol extract of A. melanocarpa. Cell viability on CCD986Sk human fibroblast was not affected by the ethanol extract of A. melanocarpa. Moreover, the ethanol extract of A. melanocarpa demonstrated inhibition of both collagenase and elastase enzymes. Analysis through ELISA and western blotting revealed an elevation in collagen expression levels in CCD986Sk human fibroblasts treated with ethanol extract. Additionally, the extract induced migration and invasion in HaCaT human keratinocytes, potentially associated with the activation of tight junctions. These results offer insights for the development of innovative cosmeceutical formulations utilizing A. melanocarpa extract.

Natural compounds are widely incorporated into cosmetic products for many purposes. Diterpenes often function as fragrances, enhancing the sensory experience of these formulations. However, current trends in cosmetic science aim to develop multifunctional products, where compounds traditionally used for texture or fragrance also possess biological activities that contribute to the product's efficacy. In this context, this study focuses on synthesizing derivatives of phytol-a compound already presents in cosmetic formulations-to enhance its anti-aging properties. The derivatives were synthesized through esterification with substituted benzoic and cinnamic acids, known for their antioxidant and enzyme inhibition properties. Reaction yields ranged from 91.0% to 5.2%, depending on the substituents in acid derivatives. The structures of the synthesized compounds were confirmed through NMR and MS techniques. Both the natural and newly synthesized derivatives were evaluated for their cosmeceutical potential using antioxidant assays and inhibition assays for tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase. This work presents the first report of the synthesis and cosmetic evaluation of several of these derivatives. Comparing with phytol ( 1 ), which presented an IC 50 of 77.47 µM, four of the derivatives presented improved tyrosinase inhibitory activity, with phytyl 4-methoxybenzoate being the most active (IC 50 = 27.9 µM), followed by phytyl benzoate with an IC 50 of 34.73 µM. Substitutions at other positions on the aromatic ring were less effective. Molecular docking studies confirmed that the modifications potentiated a stronger interaction between the synthesized compounds and tyrosinase.

In the last years, the landscape of anti-aging cosmetics has been marked by significant advances in cosmeceutical delivery systems. This study aimed to conduct a systematic review of these technological innovations, with a focus on anti-aging effects, from 2018 to 2023. The methodology included a thorough search on PubMed and through gray literature, applying rigorous exclusion criteria. The descriptors were selected based on the Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). A total of 265 articles were found. Exclusion criteria were applied, and 90 of them were selected for full reading. After reading the full 90 articles, 52 were excluded, leaving 38 articles for final evaluation composing this review. The key findings highlighted a clear prevalence of studies exploring nanotechnology, including nanoparticles, niosomes, and liposomes. Most of the formulations analyzed in this review emphasize antioxidant activities, which play a crucial role in preventing premature aging caused by free radicals. The reviewed studies revealed specific activities, such as the reduction in melanin synthesis, the inhibition of enzymes involved in the skin aging process, and the prevention of morphological changes typical of aging.

The genus Vaccinium is represented by shrubs growing in a temperate climate that have been used for ages as traditional remedies in the treatment of digestive problems, in diabetes, renal stones or as antiseptics due to the presence of polyphenols (anthocyanins, flavonoids and tannins) in their fruits and leaves. Recent studies confirm their marked potential in the treatment of skin disorders and as skin care cosmetics. The aim of this review is to present the role of Vaccinium spp. as cosmetic products, highlight their potential and prove the biological properties exerted by the extracts from different species that can be useful for the preparation of innovative cosmetics. In the manuscript both skin care and therapeutic applications of the representatives of this gender will be discussed that include the antioxidant, skin lightening, UV-protective, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and chemopreventive properties to shed new light on these underestimated plants.

Hydrogels based on poly(vinyl alcohol), silk sericin, and gelatin containing Camellia oleifera oil (CO)-loaded chitosan nanoparticles (CSNPs) were fabricated. The loading of CO into CSNPs was achieved by a two-step procedure, which included an oil-in-water emulsion and an ionic gelation method. SEM images of CO-loaded CSNPs illustrated the spherical shape with aggregation of the nanoparticles. The particle size and polydispersity index were 541-1089 nm and 0.39-0.65, respectively. The encapsulation efficiency and loading capacity were 3-16 % and 4-6 %, respectively. The gelatin/poly(vinyl alcohol)/sericin hydrogels were fabricated and incorporated with CO or CO-loaded CSNPs with different concentrations of CO-loaded CSNPs. All hydrogels demonstrated a porous structure. Besides, the hydrogels containing CO-loaded CSNPs showed a more controlled and sustained release profile than the hydrogels containing CO. Moreover, the hydrogels showed tyrosinase inhibition (9-13 %) and antioxidant activity (37-60 %). Finally, the hydrogels containing CO-loaded CSNPs were non-toxic to the Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts and NCTC clone 929 cells, even at a high dosage of 50 mg/mL. As a result, these hydrogels exhibited excellent potential for use in cosmeceutical industries., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The main issues with local delivery of cosmetics are their high sensitivity and limited drug loading of active pharmaceutical ingredient. Nanocrystal technology offers consumers cutting-edge and effective products and exhibits enormous development potential in the beauty business as a new delivery method to address the issue of low solubility and low permeability of sensitive chemicals. In this review, we described the processes for making NCs, along with the impacts of loading and the uses of different carriers. Among them, nanocrystalline loaded gel and emulsion are widely used and may further improve the stability of the system. Then, we introduced the beauty efficacy of drug NCs from five aspects: anti-inflammation and acne, anti-bacterial, lightening and freckle removal, anti-aging as well as UV protection. Following that, we presented the current scenario about stability and safety. Finally, the challenges and vacancy were discussed along with the potential uses of NCs in the cosmetics industry. This review serves as a resource for the advancement of nanocrystal technology in the cosmetics sector., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare the following financial interests/personal relationships which may be considered as potential competing interests Xiaoqing Miao reports financial support were provided by Institute of Geology and Geophysics Chinese Academy of Sciences., (Copyright © 2023 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Seaweeds are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic and photosynthetic organisms, and are a source of chemical diversity with powerful biological activities for diversified industrial applications including cosmeceuticals. Red seaweeds (Rhodophyta) are good sources of Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) for photoprotectant and antiphotoaging compounds. In addition, Rhodophyta are also good sources for hydrogel compounds that are used widely in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries as gelling agents, moisturizers or for their antiphotoaging effects. Our survey and ongoing studies revealed that the biodiversity of Indonesian Rhodophyta is rich and is a treasure trove for cosmeceutical agents including MAA and hydrogels. This study delivers valuable information for identifying potential red seaweeds in screening and searching for cosmeceutical agents.

Plant saponins are abundant and diverse natural products with a great potential for use in drug-discovery research. Here, we evaluated extracts of saponins-rich fractions of argan leaves and argan oil extraction byproducts (shell, pulp, press cake) for their effect on melanogenesis. Results show that from among the samples tested, only the saponins-rich fraction from leaves (ALS) inhibited melanin production in B16 murine melanoma (B16) cells. The mechanism of the melanogenesis inhibition was elucidated by determining the protein and mRNA expression of melanogenesis-associated enzymes tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), and performing DNA microarray analysis. Results showed that 10 µg/mL ALS significantly inhibited melanogenesis in B16 cells and human epidermal melanocytes by 59% and 48%, respectively, without cytotoxicity. The effect of ALS on melanogenesis can be attributed to the decrease in TYR, TRP1, and MITF expression at the protein and mRNA levels. MITF inhibition naturally led to the downregulation of the expression of Tyr and Trp1 genes. Results of the DNA microarray analysis revealed the effect on melanogenesis-associated cAMP and Wnt signaling pathways' genes. The results of this study suggest that ALS may be used in cosmeceuticals preparations for hyperpigmentation treatment., Competing Interests: The authors declare no conflict of interest. The funders had no role in the design of the study; in the collection, analyses, or interpretation of data; in the writing of the manuscript; or in the decision to publish the results.

Background: Essential oils have great interest among the increasing demand for herbal cosmetics in the market. They are natural sources of biologically active ingredients due to the wide application of such compounds as well as their particular chemical composition. Several researches have evaluated the effectiveness of these bioactive ingredients for use in cosmeceuticals, mainly in both hair scalp and shaft hair damage repair. Thus, the amounts and their associations define the properties of these compositions with interest for hair cosmetic use, such as antioxidant, inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities. Because they are complex compounds, their actions on the skin, hair scalp, and shaft are not yet fully understood., Aims: The purpose of this review is to highlight the relevant researches and findings on essential oils in hair care., Methods: In order to achieve this objective, the present work comprises an updated bibliographic review related to essential oils used in hair care., Results: It was possible to observe that cosmeceuticals containing essential oils applied to the scalp are preferable for topical activity. Also, it was noticed that there are few reports regarding their use in hair shaft. However, it was found that some oils are used to intensify the brightness and fix the hair color., Conclusions: This work demonstrated that the use of essential oils in both cosmetic products (industrial application) and those associated with oils carriers (as individual protocols) may lead to satisfactory results in the treatment of some scalp dysfunctions., (© 2021 Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

(1) Background: Acne is a widespread skin disease, especially among adolescents. Following the COVID-19 pandemic and the use of masks, the problem has been affecting a greater number of people, and the attention of the skin care beauty routine cosmetics has been focused on the "Maskne", caused by the sebum excretion rate (SER) that stimulates microbial proliferation. (2) Methods: the present study was focused on the rheological characterization and quality assurance of the preservative system of an anti-acne serum. The biological effectiveness (cytotoxicity-skin and eye irritation-antimicrobial, biofilm eradication and anti-inflammatory activity) was evaluated in a monolayer cell line of keratinocytes (HaCaT) and on 3D models (reconstructed human epidermis, RHE and human reconstructed corneal epithelium, HCE). The Cutibacterium acnes , as the most relevant acne-inducing bacterium, is chosen as a pro-inflammatory stimulus and to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of the serum. (3) Results and Conclusions: Rheology allows to simulate serum behavior at rest, extrusion and application, so the serum could be defined as having a solid-like behavior and being pseudoplastic. The preservative system is in compliance with the criteria of the reference standard. Biological effectiveness evaluation shows non-cytotoxic and irritant behavior with a good antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity of the formulation, supporting the effectiveness of the serum for acne-prone skin treatment.

The present work was performed to investigate the phenolic composition of P. lentiscus L. distilled leaves (PDL) and examine its potential against certain key enzymes related to skin aging. High-pressure liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) and various separation procedures combined with nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and MS analysis were performed to isolate and identify compounds present in the ethyl acetate extract (EAE) of PDL. A high amount of flavonol glycoside was detected in EAE. Indeed, quercetin-3- O -rhamnoside (FC), myricetin-3- O -rhamnoside (FM2), and kaempferol-3- O -rhamnoside (FB2) were isolated from EAE, and are present in high quantities of 10.47 ± 0.26, 12.17 ± 0.74, and 4.53 ± 0.59 mg/g dry weight, respectively. A transdermal diffusion study was carried out to determine the EAE-molecules that may transmit the cutaneous barrier and showed that FM2 transmits the membrane barrier with a high amount followed by FC. EAE, FM2, and FC were tested against tyrosinase and elastase enzymes. Moreover, intracellular tyrosinase inhibition and cytotoxicity on skin melanoma cells (B16) were evaluated. The results indicated that EAE, FC, and FM2 have important inhibitory activities compared to the well-known standards, at non-cytotoxic concentrations. Therefore, they could be excellent agents for treating skin pigmentation and elasticity problems.

A growing concern for overall health is driving a global market of natural ingredients not only in the food industry but also in the cosmetic field. In this study, a screening on potential cosmetic applications of aqueous extracts from three Icelandic seaweeds produced by pulsed electric fields (PEF) was performed. Produced extracts by PEF from Ulva lactuca , Alaria esculenta and Palmaria palmata were compared with the traditional hot water extraction in terms of polyphenol, flavonoid and carbohydrate content. Moreover, antioxidant properties and enzymatic inhibitory activities were evaluated by using in vitro assays. PEF exhibited similar results to the traditional method, showing several advantages such as its non-thermal nature and shorter extraction time. Amongst the three Icelandic species, Alaria esculenta showed the highest content of phenolic (mean value 8869.7 µg GAE/g dw) and flavonoid (mean value 12,098.7 µg QE/g dw) compounds, also exhibiting the highest antioxidant capacities. Moreover, Alaria esculenta extracts exhibited excellent anti-enzymatic activities (76.9, 72.8, 93.0 and 100% for collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase, respectively) for their use in skin whitening and anti-aging products. Thus, our preliminary study suggests that Icelandic Alaria esculenta -based extracts produced by PEF could be used as potential ingredients for natural cosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations.

Amongst the countless marine organisms, seaweeds are considered as one of the richest sources of biologically active ingredients having powerful biological activities. Seaweeds or marine macroalgae are macroscopic multicellular eukaryotic photosynthetic organisms and have the potential to produce a large number of valuable compounds, such as proteins, carbohydrates, fatty acids, amino acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, etc. Since it is a prominent source of bioactive constituents, it finds diversified industrial applications viz food and dairy, pharmaceuticals, medicinal, cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, etc. Moreover, seaweed-based cosmetic products are risen up in their demands by the consumers, as they see them as a promising alternative to synthetic cosmetics. Normally it contains purified biologically active compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweed ingredients that are useful in cosmeceuticals are known to be effective alternatives with significant benefits. Many seaweeds' species demonstrated skin beneficial activities, such as antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, antiaging, photoprotection, anti-wrinkle, moisturizer, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer and antioxidant properties, as well as certain antimicrobial activities, such as antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activities. This review presents applications of bioactive molecules derived from marine algae as a potential substitute for its current applications in the cosmetic industry. The biological activities of carbohydrates, proteins, phenolic compounds and pigments are discussed as safe sources of ingredients for the consumer and cosmetic industry.

In the last decades, the marine environment was discovered as a huge reservoir of novel bioactive compounds, useful for medicinal treatments improving human health and well-being. Among several marine organisms exhibiting biotechnological potential, sponges were highlighted as one of the most interesting phyla according to a wide literature describing new molecules every year. Not surprisingly, the first marine drugs approved for medical purposes were isolated from a marine sponge and are now used as anti-cancer and anti-viral agents. In most cases, experimental evidence reported that very often associated and/or symbiotic communities produced these bioactive compounds for a mutual benefit. Nowadays, beauty treatments are formulated taking advantage of the beneficial properties exerted by marine novel compounds. In fact, several biological activities suitable for cosmetic treatments were recorded, such as anti-oxidant, anti-aging, skin whitening, and emulsifying activities, among others. Here, we collected and discussed several scientific contributions reporting the cosmeceutical potential of marine sponge symbionts, which were exclusively represented by fungi and bacteria. Bioactive compounds specifically indicated as products of the sponge metabolism were also included. However, the origin of sponge metabolites is dubious, and the role of the associated biota cannot be excluded, considering that the isolation of symbionts represents a hard challenge due to their uncultivable features.

Scientific and consumer interest in healthy foods (also known as functional foods), nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals has increased in the recent years, leading to an increased presence of these products in the market. However, the regulations across different countries that define the type of claims that may be made, and the degree of evidence required to support these claims, are rather inconsistent. Moreover, there is also controversy on the effectiveness and biological mode of action of many of these products, which should undergo an exhaustive approval process to guarantee the consumer rights. Computational approaches constitute invaluable tools to facilitate the discovery of bioactive molecules and provide biological plausibility on the mode of action of these products. Indeed, methodologies like QSAR, docking or molecular dynamics have been used in drug discovery protocols for decades and can now aid in the discovery of bioactive food components. Thanks to these approaches, it is possible to search for new functions in food constituents, which may be part of our daily diet, and help to prevent disorders like diabetes, hypercholesterolemia or obesity. In the present manuscript, computational studies applied to this field are reviewed to illustrate the potential of these approaches to guide the first screening steps and the mechanistic studies of nutraceutical, cosmeceutical and functional foods., (© 2021. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Nature Switzerland AG.)

This study proposes a review on hyaluronic acid (HA) known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate and its derivates and their application in cosmetic formulations. HA is a glycosaminoglycan constituted from two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), isolated initially from the vitreous humour of the eye, and subsequently discovered in different tissues or fluids (especially in the articular cartilage and the synovial fluid). It is ubiquitous in vertebrates, including humans, and it is involved in diverse biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryological development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has many qualities that recommend it over other substances used in skin regeneration, with moisturizing and anti-ageing effects. HA molecular weight influences its penetration into the skin and its biological activity. Considering that, nowadays, hyaluronic acid has a wide use and a multitude of applications (in ophthalmology, arthrology, pneumology, rhinology, aesthetic medicine, oncology, nutrition, and cosmetics), the present study describes the main aspects related to its use in cosmetology. The biological effect of HA on the skin level and its potential adverse effects are discussed. Some available cosmetic products containing HA have been identified from the brand portfolio of most known manufacturers and their composition was evaluated. Further, additional biological effects due to the other active ingredients (plant extracts, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, proteins, saccharides, probiotics, etc.) are presented, as well as a description of their possible toxic effects.

Chitosan has many useful intrinsic properties (e.g., non-toxicity, antibacterial properties, and biodegradability) and can be processed into high-surface-area nanofiber constructs for a broad range of sustainable research and commercial applications. These nanofibers can be further functionalized with bioactive agents. In the food industry, for example, edible films can be formed from chitosan-based composite fibers filled with nanoparticles, exhibiting excellent antioxidant and antimicrobial properties for a variety of products. Processing 'pure' chitosan into nanofibers can be challenging due to its cationic nature and high crystallinity; therefore, chitosan is often modified or blended with other materials to improve its processability and tailor its performance to specific needs. Chitosan can be blended with a variety of natural and synthetic polymers and processed into fibers while maintaining many of its intrinsic properties that are important for textile, cosmeceutical, and biomedical applications. The abundance of amine groups in the chemical structure of chitosan allows for facile modification (e.g., into soluble derivatives) and the binding of negatively charged domains. In particular, high-surface-area chitosan nanofibers are effective in binding negatively charged biomolecules. Recent developments of chitosan-based nanofibers with biological activities for various applications in biomedical, food packaging, and textiles are discussed herein.

Medicago lupulina is an ancient edible plant from the Fabaceae family. In this work, two eco-friendly methods for extraction of bioactive phenolics from M. lupulina were developed using mixtures of water with two non-toxic, skin- and environmentally-friendly polyol solvents: glycerol and polypropylene glycol. Ultrasound-assisted extractions were optimized using a Box-Behnken design. The independent variables were the concentration of organic solvent in water (X 1 ), extraction temperature (X 2 ) and time (X 3 ), while the response was phenolic content. The optimum conditions for extraction of polyphenols were (X 1 , X 2 , X 3 ): (45%, 70 °C, 60 min) and (10%, 80 °C, 60 min) for glycerol and polypropylene glycol extraction, respectively. The extracts prepared at optimum conditions were rich in phenolic compounds, mainly derivatives of apigenin, kaempferol, luteolin, quercetin, caffeic and ferulic acid, as well as coumestrol. Their cosmeceutical and antidiabetic activity was tested. Both extracts demonstrated notable antioxidant, anti-lipoxygenase and anti-α-amylase activity. In addition to those activities, the glycerol extract efficiently inhibited protein coagulation, elastase and α-glucosidase activity. Glycerol present in the extract displayed enzyme-inhibiting activity in several assays and supported the action of the bioactive constituents. Thus, the optimized glycerol extract is a desirable candidate for direct incorporation in antidiabetic food supplements and cosmeceutical products.

Fragrance is an integral part of cosmetic products and is often regarded as an overriding factor in the selection of cosmetics among consumers. Fragrances also play a considerable role in masking undesirable smells arising from fatty acids, oils and surfactants that are commonly used in cosmetic formulations. Essential oils are vital assets in the cosmetic industry, as along with imparting pleasant aromas in different products, they are able to act as preservatives and active agents and, simultaneously, offer various benefits to the skin. Moreover, the stimulating demand for natural ingredients has contributed massively to a renewed interest in cosmetic and wellness industries in plant derivatives, especially essential oils. This has led popular cosmetic companies to endorse natural fragrances and opt for minimally processed natural ingredients, given the potentially adverse health risks associated with artificial fragrance chemicals, which are major elements of cosmetics. Among the high-valued essential oils used as fragrances are citrus, lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree and other floral oils, among others, while linalool, geraniol, limonene, citronellol, and citral are much-appreciated fragrance components used in different cosmetics. Thus, this review aimed to highlight the enormous versatility of essential oils as significant sources of natural fragrances in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Moreover, a special focus will be laid on the different aspects related to essential oils such as their sources, market demand, chemistry, fragrance classification, aroma profile, authenticity and safety.

The objective of the study was to explore the potential of a novel nicotinamide extrudate as an anti-aging platform compared to the conventional gel. Nicotinamide extrudates were prepared by hot melt extrusion and characterized pharmaceutically for their thermal behavior, mositure uptake, skin adhesion, and deposition in different skin layers. The pharmacological potential of the extrudates was explored in terms of induction of skin amino acids, cellular energy estimation, 8-hydroxy-2-deoxyguanosine content, Nitrate + nitrite content and histological chacaterization of collagen area percent. Results revealed that the extrusion technique managed to amorphize nicotinamide and enhance its skin deposition (46%) compared to the gel form which only showed about 10% deposition, owing to the mucoadhesive nature of the former. Extrudates were also found superior to the gel form as demonstrated by the increased amino acids level (glycine, proline, hydroxyproline), increased cellular energy, decreased oxidative stress and increased collagen formation. Nictotinamide extrudates were proven to be a scalable promising anti-aging platform which are worthy of entering the cosmeceutical market as products.

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Background: In Roman medicine, face packs, plasters, unguents, and peelings were part of the therapy of dermatological diseases, but also served cosmetic purposes. Ancient medical textbooks inform us about the ingredients for these applications. Beyond medical literature, other genres contain information about dermatological applications. The Roman poet Ovid (43 BC-17 AD) wrote a didactic poem recording five recipes for topical applications for female faces (Medicamina faciei femineae). Researchers debate the relation of Ovid's poem to Roman medicine: Does the poem contain therapeutical or cosmetical information, or is it mere belles lettres?, Aims: The objective of the paper is to conduct a medico-historical classification of Ovid's poem by determining whether the ingredients of Ovid's recipes were thought to be effective by the authors of Roman medical textbooks., Methods: First, translation and identification of the ingredients were carried out. Second, comparison of the ingredients' functions regarding the therapy of dermatological diseases in two important Roman medical textbooks was realized. For this purpose, several commentaries on the text of Ovid were used and a keyword search in Roman medical textbooks was performed., Results: Ovid's five recipes contain 23 ingredients. All ingredients can be found in medical textbooks. We find that 14 of these ingredients serve cosmetic purposes, 17 serve the therapy of dermatological diseases, and 13 serve both., Conclusion: Ovid's recipes contain drugs that were considered effective by the authors of Roman medical textbooks. These drugs were recommended both for therapeutic and cosmetic purposes by the same authors. Therefore, Ovid's didactic poem is not mere belles lettres, but contains serious medical and cosmetical information. As far as we know, it is the first Roman text that contains dermatological recipes., (© 2019 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Hyperpigmentation can be either diffused or localized. In treating diffused hyperpigmentation, larger surface area coverage is the requirement. Novel user-friendly spray formulation loaded with depigmenting agents can cater the night time need in treating skin darkening. Kojic acid and arbutin, the selected actives for the study exhibit low permeability and high irritancy generating hurdles in topical delivery., Aim: The aim of this study was to develop novel kojic acid and arbutin-loaded spray formulation as a night care product., Methods: "Thermosensitive gel spray" was fabricated by simple industry feasible cooling technique and evaluated for its ability to improve skin retention, penetration, improved anti-tyrosinase activity, and suppressed dermal irritancy., Results: Comparative in-vitro and ex-vivo release profile showed the marked effect of poloxamer 407 and Methocel K100M in improving penetration and extending release over longer time period. Retention of actives in the skin layer was found to be eight times more in case of thermosensitive gel spray as compared to conventional gel formulation. The thermosensitive gel spray was free from any dermal irritancy and had higher tyrosinase inhibitory effect as against conventional gel. Furthermore, thermosensitive gel spray exhibited good stability and did not show any change in morphology and drug content during the 3-month storage., Conclusion: Kojic acid and arbutin-loaded thermosensitive gel spray can prove to be a promising strategy to treat hyperpigmentation., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs)., Competing Interests: The authors declare no conflict of interest.

Background: Cosmetic industry following the recent trends in the relative market has turned its interest in the formation of cosmeceutical products containing natural bioactive ingredients. Natural extracts may reveal undesirable sensory characteristics due to their composition. Encapsulation and nanotechnology are the most promising methods to overcome these drawbacks, opening up new perspectives for the future of cosmeceutical industry., Aims: The purpose of this study was the use of nano-encapsulated plant and fruit extracts to formulate cosmeceutical facial creams with acceptable rheological characteristics., Methods: Electrohydrodynamic process was used to encapsulate pomegranate and tea tree oil extracts and incorporate them in facial cosmetic creams. All the formulations including those without additives, were stored at three different temperatures. Subsequently, rheological oscillatory tests (frequency sweep tests) were performed using the dynamic mechanical analysis method in order to evaluate alterations in storage modulus (G'), loss modulus (G''), and complex viscosity (η*)., Results: Dynamic mechanical analysis, showed that all formulations are suitable for application in cosmetic industry, while changes due to storage period or the storage temperature were negligible., Conclusion: The addition of the selected extracts' nanofibers to formulate cosmeceutical facial creams, developed products with acceptable rheological characteristics that could be decisive for the cosmetics industry., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Cosmeceuticals are hybrids between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals which are being designed for a dual purpose: (1) To provide desired esthetical effects and (2) simultaneously treat dermatological conditions. The increased demand for natural remedies and the trends to use natural and safe ingredients resulted in intensive cultivation of medicinal plants. However, in many cases the whole process of plant cultivation, complex extraction procedure, and purification of the targeted molecules are not economically feasible. Therefore, the desired production of natural cosmetic products in sustainable and controllable fashion in the last years led to the intensive utilization of plant cell culture technology. The present review aims to highlight examples of biosynthesis of active ingredients derived through plant in vitro systems with potential cosmeceutical application. The exploitation of different type of extracts used in a possible cosmeceutical formulation, as well as, their activity tested in in vitro/in vivo models is thoroughly discussed. Furthermore, opportunities to manipulate the biosynthetic pathway, hence engineering the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, such as anthocyanins, have been highlighted.

Background: Acne is one of the most common skin problems among human populations. A facial cleanser formulated with alkyl ether carboxylate (AEC) and alkyl carboxylate (AC) can improve acne by cleansing sebum on facial skin but cannot effectively remove keratotic plugs in the skin pores. Recently, we confirmed that Tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane and L-arginine (Tris/Arg) is able to reduce sebum levels, disrupt keratotic plugs in vitro and decrease pore size on facial skin., Objective: To compare the efficacy of the Tris/Arg-formulated cleanser with the AEC/AC cleanser in Thai subjects with acne., Methods: We designed a randomized, double-blind, controlled, parallel trial. Thirty-four male Thai subjects with mild to moderate acne were assigned to one of two groups: one group used the Tris/Arg cleanser while the other used the AEC/AC-based cleanser twice a day for 4 weeks., Results: After 4 weeks, significant decreases in noninflammatory acne were observed in both groups, yet significant decreases in inflammatory acne were only observed in the Tris/Arg cleanser group. The sebum level prior to and 30 minutes after facial washing showed no change in either group. The average pore size with keratotic plugs on the cheeks was significantly decreased in the Tris/Arg group. More than half of subjects in both groups observed acne improvement but more subjects in the Tris/Arg group noted pore size improvement., Conclusion: The Tris/Arg formulated cleanser has a high efficacy for significantly reducing both noninflammatory and inflammatory acne accompanied by decreases in pore size with keratotic plugs in male Thai subjects., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Backgrounds: We previously reported the efficacy of 0.1% 4-n-butylresorcinol (4nBR) cream in the treatment melasma and synergistic effect of 4nBR and resveratrol (RSV) to inhibit melanogenesis in vitro., Aims: To evaluate efficacy and safety of a cream which contains liposome-encapsulated 4nBR and RSV in the treatment of melasma., Patients/methods: A total of 21 female patients with melasma were treated with the cream for 4 weeks. At baseline, week 2, and week 4, melanin index (MI) of the lesional and preauricular nonlesional skin was measured and two blinded, independent dermatologists assessed the overall severity by 5-point scale., Results: The lesional MI was significantly decreased at weeks 2 and 4 compared with the baseline while no significant change in the nonlesional MI was observed throughout the study. The mean investigator's global assessment score was also significantly improved at weeks 2 and 4. In patient's self-assessment, 8 (38.1%) and 11 (52.3%) patients answered moderate to significant improvement in their melasma at weeks 2 and 4, respectively. No serious adverse events were reported., Conclusion: The cream containing liposome-encapsulated 4nBR and RSV was shown to be effective and safe for the treatment of melasma with its effect appearing as early as 2 weeks., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Objective: The moisturizing and irritation effects of sacha inchi oil were evaluated., Study Design: The moisturizing effect on the skin was clinically assessed using a regression study design. Sacha inchi oil or olive oil (benchmark) was applied on the left or right lower leg of the subjects for 14 days followed by application discontinuation for 2 days. The TEWL, skin moisture content and dryness appearance were observed., Methods: The fatty acid composition and characteristics of cold-pressed sacha inchi seed oil were determined. Skin tissues cultured ex vivo were used to assess primary irritation induced by the oil by examining keratin 1 expression and TNF-α and IL-1α release from the oil-applied tissues., Results: The sacha inchi oil contained 42.3% linolenic acid and 39.5% linoleic acid. This oil's saponification, iodine, acid and peroxide values were 168.58 ± 1.55 mg KOH/g, 203.00 ± 0.04 g I 2 /100 g, 1.68 ± 0.03 mg KOH/g, and 1.95 ± 0.26 mEq peroxide/kg, respectively. Compared with nontreated skin tissues, induced secretion of TNF-α and IL-1α and disruption of keratin 1 integrity in the stratum corneum layer were not found in the sacha inchi oil-treated tissues. In a clinical study with 13 volunteers, the improvement in moisture content and skin dryness appearance at the sacha inchi oil-applied site was comparable with that observed at the olive oil-applied site., Conclusions: The sacha inchi oil was mild to the skin and benefited dry skin., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Vitamin C (also known as L-ascorbic acid) plays a critical role in reactive oxygen species (ROS) reduction and cell regeneration by protecting cell from oxidative stress. Although vitamin C is widely used in cosmetic and therapeutic markets, there is considerable evidence that vitamin C easily undergoes oxidation by air, pH, temperature, and UV light upon storage. This deficiency of vitamin C decreases its potency as an antioxidant and reduces the shelf-life of products containing vitamin C as its ingredient. To overcome the deficiency of vitamin C, we have developed Aptamin C, an innovative DNA aptamer maximizing the antioxidant efficacy of vitamin C by binding to the reduced form of vitamin C and delaying its oxidation., Methods: Binding of Aptamin C with vitamin C was determined using ITC analysis. ITC experiment was performed 0.2 mmol/L vitamin C that was injected 25 times in 2 µL aliquots into the 1.8 mL sample cell containing the Aptamin C at a concentration of 0.02 mmol/L. The data were fitted to a one-site binding isotherm using with origin program for ITC v.5.0., Results: To investigate the effect of Aptamin C and vitamin C complex in human skins, both in vitro and clinical tests were performed. We observed that the complex of Aptamin C and vitamin C was significantly effective in wrinkle improvement, whitening effect, and hydration increase. In the clinical test, subjects treated with the complex showed dramatic improvement in skin irritation and itching. No adverse reaction was presented by Aptamin C complex in the test., Conclusion: Taken together, these results showed that Aptamin C, an innovative novel compound, should potentially be served as a key cosmeceutical ingredient for a range of skin conditions., (© 2019 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology Published by Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Changes induced by intrinsic and extrinsic photoaging result in signs of skin aging including altered pigmentation and wrinkles. A 3-in-1 night facial serum (NFS) was developed to treat skin aging by antioxidative and retinoid-like mechanisms., Objective: To determine the clinical and histological effects of the 3-in-1 NFS on signs of skin aging, clinically and histologically., Methods & Materials: Twenty-four subjects applied serum nightly for 12 weeks, and 12 subjects continued an extension study to 24 weeks. Clinical assessment of skin quality was performed by dermatologists. Skin biopsy was performed at 12 weeks to assess histological changes., Results: There was a global aesthetic improvement over the duration of the study: +1.21 points at 12 weeks; +1.25 at 24 weeks. Skin texture, pigmentation, erythema, skin tone, complexion, lines, and wrinkles all significantly improved (P < .05). There was also a significant reduction in photodamage, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkle scores, most notably horizontal forehead expression lines, and marionette lines (P < .05 for all). Dermal and epidermal thickness increased without reaching statistical significance., Conclusion: The 3-in-1 NFS had clinically and statistically significant effects on signs of skin aging after 12 weeks, which became more pronounced after 24 weeks., (© 2020 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Cosmetics are the products used to beautify the skin. Emulsion is a fine dispersion of two or more immiscible liquids. Sphaeranthus indicus is claimed to be used for skin beautification in folk medicine. Multiple emulsion was formulated containing the extract of S indicus flowers., Aims: This research study indicates that extract of S indicus flowers contains sufficient amount of polyphenols and also possess good antioxidant activity with mushroom tyrosinase inhibition activity., Method: Further, stable multiple emulsion was developed and stability testing was performed for 180 days by keeping the multiple emulsion at 8°C ± 1, 25°C ± 1, 40°C ± 1, and 40°C ± 1 with 75% ± 1 RH. Parameters checked were color change, phase distribution, viscosity, droplet size and size distribution, pH determination, and electrical conductivity. Sun protection factor (SPF) was determined which also showed promising results. Skin testing on human volunteers was done for 3 months after biosafety profiling of the most stable multiple emulsion., Results: This also showed remarkable effects. Skin erythema, melanin, and sebum were reduced. Skin hydration and elasticity were increased. There was also reduction in the number of skin large and small skin pores. Skin spot area was also reduced by the use of multiple emulsion loaded with S indicus flower extract. ANOVA test showed that all the effects produced on skin were significant, ie, P ≤ .05., Conclusion: A stable multiple emulsion was developed which produced significant cosmetic effects on human skin., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Farnesol is an acyclic sesquiterpene presents in various natural sources including fruits, vegetables, and herbs. In this study, we successfully prepared a farnesol-containing gel with ultraviolet B-screening and skin-repairing capabilities. Furthermore, the advantageous potential of farnesol-containing facial masks for UVB-caused sunburnt skin was evaluated., Aims: Thus, the objectives of this study are to design and prepare optimal facial masks possessing collagen production and smoothness-enhancing capabilities for the skin., Methods: A series of formulations consisting of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hyaluronan, and farnesol were used to prepare the facial masks. The effects of the facial masks on collagen production by skin fibroblasts in vitro were examined. The effects of the prepared masks on collagen synthesis, smoothness, and inflammation of the skin were further evaluated in vivo using two modes (mask administration interspersed with UVB exposure and mask administration after UVB exposure) of a rat model., Results: Facial masks containing both 0.3 and 0.8 mM farnesol improved skin smoothness and enhanced collagen content and arrangement in the skin of rats with mask administration interspersed with and after UVB exposure. The masks containing 0.8 mM farnesol exerted the greatest effects on collagen production/arrangement and smoothness improvement in vivo model. Histopathologically observed inflammation was alleviated, and interleukin (IL)-6 was decreased in the 0.8 mM farnesol-containing facial mask-covered skin compared with that without facial masks., Conclusions: The farnesol-containing facial masks prepared in this study may have collagen production-increasing, smoothness-improving, and anti-inflammatory properties for UVB-caused sunburn; thus, farnesol is potentially a beneficial component in facial masks., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

The anti-melanogenic principle of peony (Paeonia officinalis subsp. officinalis) seeds was elucidated via activity-guided isolation. Resveratroloside (trans-resveratrol-4'-O-beta-d-glucopyranoside) was found to be the main metabolite of P. officinalis subsp. officinalis seeds and its tyrosinase inhibiting activity was confirmed via an enzymatic assay. Furthermore, the in vitro activity and the therapeutic window were studied employing the murine melanoma cell line B16F10. The results from the conducted stability assay and the high content of resveratroloside in the seeds (i.e. 10.4% dw) motivated us to push the extract forward to an in vivo tolerance assay. A clinical study with forty Caucasian participants proofed a good skin-tolerance with high moisture effect and reduction of pores., (Copyright © 2019 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.)

Cosmeceuticals are a type of cosmetic products distinguished by the presence of active ingredients that, in addition to their cosmetic effects, also hold therapeutic outcomes. This review is focused on phytocompounds (PHYTOCs)-based cosmeceuticals, an established segment of cosmetic industry, due to the great demand for vitamins and plant-derived products. PHYTOCs beauty and health-related applications are due to their anti-oxidant, anti-bacterial, wound-healing, anti-aging, sun protection, cytoprotective, anticarcinogenic and anti-inflammatory activities. However, PHYTOCs present disadvantages, precisely the poor solubility, instability, reduced skin permeation and low skin retention time, which strongly restrict their topical application. Therefore, and since the cosmetic industry constantly pursues groundbreaking technological products, nanotechnology emerges as an innovative strategy to tackle the PHYTOCs recognized limitations. Nanotechnology manipulates and reduces materials size to 1 and 100 nm, creating structures able to encapsulate active ingredients, such as PHYTOCs, with the purpose of overcoming their limitations and delivering them in a controlled manner to the skin. This review highlights the potential properties of PHYTOCs loaded in several types of nanocarriers (liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, transferosomes, cubosomes, phytosomes, nanoemulsions, nanocrystals, polymeric nanoparticles, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, carbon nanotubes, fullerenes, and dendrimers) used to overcome PHYTOCs free form limitations and potentiate their cosmeceutical properties. An approach to the "green" chemical synthesis of metallic nanoparticles taking advantage of PHYTOCS as natural reducing agents is exposed as well. Nanocosmeceuticals toxicity concerns and regulatory aspects are also addressed., (Copyright © 2019 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

In recent years, consumers' demand for cosmeceutical products with protective and therapeutic functions derived from natural sources have caused this industry to search for alternative active ingredients. Bioactive peptides have a wide spectrum of bioactivities, which make them ideal candidates for development of these cosmeceutical products. In vitro studies have demonstrated that bioactive peptides (obtained as extracts, hydrolysates, and/or individual peptides) exhibit biological properties including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, in addition to their properties of inhibiting aging-related enzymes such as elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. Some studies report multifunctional bioactive peptides that can simultaneously affect, beneficially, multiple physiological pathways in the skin. Moreover, in vivo studies have revealed that topical application or consumption of bioactive peptides possess remarkable skin protection. These properties suggest that bioactive peptides may contribute in the improvement of skin health by providing specific physiological functions, even though the mechanisms underlying the protective effect have not been completely elucidated. This review provides an overview of in vitro, in silico and in vivo properties of bioactive peptides with potential use as functional ingredients in the cosmeceutical field. It also describes the possible mechanisms involved as well as opportunities and challenges associated with their application., (Copyright © 2019 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Introduction : Peptide molecules are being vastly investigated as an emerging class of therapeutic molecules in recent years. Currently, 60 peptides have been approved by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and more would enter the market in near future. Peptides have already opened their ways into cosmeceutical and food industries as well. Areas covered : Antibodies, vaccines, and antimicrobial agents are the major classes of therapeutic peptides. Additionally, peptides may be employed in drug development to support cell penetration or targeting. The interest in antimicrobial peptides is surging due to the increasing risk of antibiotic-resistant pathogens. Peptide vaccines with their significant advantages compared with traditional vaccines, are expected to find their place in coming years, especially for cancer, microbial and allergen-specific immunotherapy. The usage of peptides in cosmeceuticals is also growing rapidly. Expert opinion : Peptide synthesis has become accessible, and advances in peptide engineering, sequencing technologies, and structural bioinformatics have resulted in the rational designing of novel peptides. All these advancements would lead to the more prominent roles of peptides in the mentioned areas. In this review, we discuss applications of peptides in different fields including pharmaceuticals, cosmeceuticals, besides the critical factors in designing efficient peptide molecules.

Large amounts of agro-industrial waste are being generated each year, leading to pollution and economic loss. At the same time, these side streams are rich source of active compounds including antioxidants. Recovered compounds can be re-utilized as food additives, functional foods, nutra-/pharmaceuticals, cosmeceuticals, beauty products, and bio-packaging. Advanced extraction techniques are promising tools to recover target compounds such as antioxidants from agro-industrial side streams. Due to the disadvantages of classical extraction techniques (such as large amounts of solvents, increased time of extraction, large amounts of remaining waste after the extraction procedure, etc.), and advanced techniques emerged, in order to obtain more efficient and sustainable processes. In this review paper aspects regarding different modern extraction techniques related to recovery of antioxidant compounds from wastes generated in different industries and their applications are briefly discussed.

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced redox imbalance in melanocytes triggers the activation of tyrosinase that results in melanogenesis and its related skin disorders. Supplementation of biological reductants or anti-tyrosinase compounds inhibits such melanogenesis. Silk sericin (SS), a globular protein, is known to possess antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities along with other biological attributes. However, its inhibitory activity against UVR-induced melanogenesis has yet to be explored. In the current study, we have scientifically explored the inhibitory activity of SS against UVR-induced melanogenesis. Anti-tyrosinase activity of SS was assessed using mushroom tyrosinase, showing that Antheraea assamensis sericin (AAS) and Philosamia ricini sericin (PRS) inhibited 50% of its activity. Inhibitory activity of SS against UVR-induced melanogenesis was assessed by measuring the cellular melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in mouse melanoma. SS pretreatment significantly reduced cellular melanin and ROS production in UV irradiated melanocytes compared with SS untreated cells. AAS treatment before UVA or UVB irradiation significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity. Rheological studies showed that the skin care formulation prepared by the addition of AAS to the basic formulation minimally affected its flow properties. Altogether, our results validate that AAS efficiently inhibited UVR-induced melanogenesis and it could be used as a potential antioxidant molecule in skin care cosmeceutics.

Berberis vulgaris is rich in berberine, an isoquinoline alkaloid, with antidiabetic activity, often used topically for skin-related problems. The aim of this work was to develop a "green" method for berberine extraction using mixtures of water with glycerol, a non-toxic, environmentally-friendly solvent. Response surface methodology based on Box-Behnken design was used to optimize the experimental conditions for ultrasound-assisted extraction of berberine and anti-radical components from B. vulgaris root bark. The independent variables were temperature (X 1 ), glycerol concentration (X 2 ), and ultrasound power (X 3 ), while the responses were berberine concentration and DPPH radical scavenging activity of the extracts (RSA IC 50 ). The response values of the extracts prepared at optimum conditions were (response, X 1 , X 2 , X 3 ): berberine yield (145.5 μg/mL; 80 °C, 50%, 144 W) and RSA IC 50 (58.88 μL/mL; 80 °C, 30%, 720 W). The observed values deviated from the predicted values by -3.45% and 6.42% for berberine and RSA IC 50 , respectively, thus indicating the validity of the selected models. The prepared extracts demonstrated antioxidant, anti-melanogenic, and anti-inflammatory activity, as well excellent α-glucosidase and α-amylase inhibitory activity. The displayed biological properties and lack of glycerol toxicity makes the prepared extracts suitable for direct inclusion into antidiabetic and dermatologic food supplements and topical products.

The potential uses of lyophilized cell free supernatant (CFS) of human oral derived Lactobacillus paracasei SD1 and Lactobacillus rhamnosus SD11 as cosmeceutical ingredients were investigated in the present study. Lyophilized CFS of both strains showed the antioxidant activity in concentration dependent manner. They also exhibited antimicrobial activity against P. acne , S. aureus and S. epidermidis . In combination, these two strains produced synergistic responses, not only on antioxidant activity but also on antimicrobial activity. A liposomal delivery system was employed to mask the unpleasant colour and odour of CFS. The optimal liposome formulation was characterized by a particle size of 344 nm, PDI of 0.19, zeta value of -48.05 mV and %EE of 69.45. The cytotoxicity results showed that the lyophilized CFS, which was toxic, became non-toxic after encapsulating into liposomes. Altogether, current findings demonstrate the worthiness of development of liposomes of probiotic's lyophilized CFS for cosmeceutical applications.

Aminoacyl-tRNA synthetase complex-interacting multifunctional protein 1 (AIMP1)-derived peptide (AdP) has been developed as a cosmeceutical ingredient for skin anti-aging given its fibroblast-activating (FA) and melanocyte-inhibiting (MI) functions. However, a suitable strategy for the topical delivery of AdP was required due to its low-permeable properties. In this study, FA and MI domains of AdP (FA-AdP and MI-AdP, respectively) were determined by functional domain mapping, where the activities of several fragments of AdP on fibroblast and melanocyte were tested, and a hydrosol-based topical delivery system for these AdP fragments was prepared. The excipient composition of the hydrosol was optimized to maximize the viscosity and drying rate by using Box-Behnken design. The artificial skin deposition of FA-AdP-loaded hydrosol was evaluated using Keshary-Chien diffusion cells equipped with Strat-M membrane (STM). The quantification of the fluorescent dye-tagged FA-AdP in STM was carried out by near-infrared fluorescence imaging. The optimized hydrosol showed 127-fold higher peptide deposition in STM than free FA-AdP ( p < 0.05). This work suggests that FA- and MI-AdP are active-domains for anti-wrinkle and whitening activities, respectively, and the hydrosol could be used as a promising cosmetic formulation for the delivery of AdPs to the skin.

Mushrooms are important sources of natural bioactive compounds that are increasingly used as cosmeceutical ingredients. In this context, ethanolic extracts were prepared from Ganoderma lucidum and Pleurotus ostreatus and tested by incorporation into base cosmetic creams. In vitro safety evaluation of the extracts and cosmetic formulations prepared therefore was carried out using the MTT and LDH assays in keratinocyte (HaCaT) and fibroblast (HFF-1) cell lines. Moreover, they were submitted to ex vivo skin permeation studies using a Franz diffusion apparatus with pig ear skin as permeation membrane. The results showed the absence of toxicity for keratinocytes and fibroblasts in a concentration dependent manner, which is indicative of the safety of these extracts for cosmeceutical ingredients purposes. Protocatechuic and syringic acids were the only compounds permeating from G. lucidum extract in the first 8 h of study, no penetration was observed for phenolic acids found in P. ostreatus extract and formulation. These results pointed out for the suitability of using mushroom extracts as skin care ingredients and may contribute for the valorisation of wastes generated by the mushroom processing industry, which can serve as raw-materials for the obtainment of the extracts., (Copyright © 2019 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)

Food-waste is produced throughout all the food supply chain, with a large part already achieved at farm level. In fact, fruits and vegetables, which do not satisfy aesthetic demands, cannot be marketed, but their recovery could favour their valorisation for the obtainment of highly qualified goods. In this context, faulty zucchini fruits (cultivar 'Lungo Fiorentino'), intended for disposal, were rescued as effective, inexpensive and bio-sustainable source for cosmeceutical purposes. Zucchini fruits underwent extraction and fractionation to obtain ZLF-O and ZLF-A extracts, which were chemically characterized by UHPLC-HRMS. ZLF-A extract, rich in flavonols and flavones, scavenged massively DPPH • and ABTS •+ , and was not cytotoxic at doses up to 200 μ g/mL. Thus, ZLF-A was incorporated into a base cream formula. Zucchini-based emulsion was deeply screened for its antiradical properties and cytotoxicity towards human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. ZLF-A-enriched cream, whose chemical stability was assessed over time and mimicking different storage conditions, was further tested on reconstructed epidermis disks (Episkin TM ). The recovery of valuable chemical substances from zucchini agro-food waste, complying with the principles of valorisation and sustainable development, can represent a new market force for local farmers. Data acquired were eager to convey a suitable reuse of nutraceuticals rich zucchini waste.

The present investigation was aimed to find out the sun protection factor (SPF) and antioxidant potential of geranium essential oil (GEO) and calendula essential oil (CEO) because having a combination of these two properties moves up the oils as an active ingredient of various cosmeceutical formulations for their preventive and protective properties. Essential oils were obtained by hydrodistillation of Pelargonium graveolens leaves (GEO) and Calendula officinalis flowers (CEO). The composition and identification of chemical constituents of oils were determined by GCMS analysis. Free radical scavenging activity was measured by nitric oxide scavenging activity and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity. It was observed that both GEO and CEO have the potential to reduce or prevent oxidative stress and can be used in skin care regimen to slow down skin aging via its antioxidant properties. In vitro SPF was determined by a very simple and rapid spectroscopic method. SPF value of GEO and CEO was found to 6.45 and 8.36, respectively. The SPF of CEO was higher than GEO, and the results of SPF show that these essential oils can be employed in sunscreen formulations to protect the skin from sunburn. From the results, it can be concluded that the combined antioxidant and SPF property of GEO and CEO can provide synergistic photoprotective effect or lift up the additional value of the cosmeceutical formulation., (© 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Psoriasis being an incurable disease, the drug dependency of the patient in most occasions causes greater health problem than psoriasis. Wherever there is flare-up, immunosuppressive drugs and other antimitotic medicaments are necessary. Therefore, a safe cosmetic preparation with drug-like effect on certain triggering factors of psoriasis may revolutionize the treatment., Objectives: Objectives of this study were to determine the effect of the developed formulation on several key enzymes such as lipoxygenase, collagenase, elastase, and nullifying the free radicals and glycation. All these enzymes have cascading effect in triggering the problem to inflammatory level., Methods: Biochemical and enzymatic assay was performed to determine the effect of the cosmetic formulation and its effective dosage., Result: The findings clearly show that the formulation is effective against all the key triggering factors of psoriasis., Conclusion: Findings undoubtedly establish the drug-like effect of nondrug formulation (cosmetic formulation). The use of this formulation may minimize the relative dependency of many steroids and other medicament. As the formulation contains only proven cosmetic ingredients and herbs, long-term use is unlikely to produce any side effects., (© 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)